Chevrolet - Avalanche :: 2005 V8 Continues Cranking After Letting Go Off The Key
Jan 19, 2011
I have a 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche with the 5.3 V-8. When one goes to start the engine it continues cranking (sometimes) after the engine starts and you let go of the key . Sometimes it only does it momentarily; sometimes you have to manually bring the key back so it stops cranking. I have gotten several opinions. Some say ignition switch in the steering column; others say starter/solenoid; others say electrical problem such as a relay. Problem is it only does it sporadically and it never does it when I take it to the shop. What the problem is ?
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For the past year I have had intermittent start issues with my LS that occur about 15 percent of the time. Ambient or engine temperature do not make a difference. Sometimes the starter engages but then disengages right away. I then need to depress the start button an additional time or two before it actually starts. At other times the starter engages and continues cranking while the engine sounds like it is trying to start (like it is just barely keeping ahead of the starter speed). That carries on for several seconds and then it starts. Nothing shows on diagnostics and the dealer says I am going to have to wait until there is a complete "no start" before they can trouble shoot. There was a similar issue with earlier 460 models but the Lexus service tech said that problem does not apply to the 2011's. It seems there is a lack of fuel delivery but from what point? And why only intermittent and momentary?
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i recently purchased a 2007 Chevy Avalanche 4WD (75K miles) and much to my chagrin, in the first week, i detected a noise that has steadily become worse. the dealership (a Chevrolet dealer) has not been able to determine the cause. I've had it back four times already. The noise always occurs between 45-60mph (not rpm-related) there is a groaning sound and it is accompanied by a vibration in the steering wheel. it is especially notcieable when going around turns in the road at these speeds.
The dealer said it might be related to the alternative fuel management (DOD), but i deactivated the AFM and the noise is still there. I suspected wheel hubs but they checked and said the hubs are fine. The other day as i heard the noise i dropped it out of overdrive down into "3" and the noise suddenly disappearred. All gear shifts are fine, but this was somewhat alarming. I am beginning to think this might be related to the transfer case or front differential? maybe this would be good for "Stump the Chump" ?
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My 2003 Avalanche (5.3L) suddenly started losing oil, 2 quarts since my last oil change (3,000 mi). There is no evidence of it leaking and no apparent smoking, so when I went to get my oil changed today I was telling my mechanic about it. They couldn't find any evidence of a leak either. Then when the pulled the fill plug on the transfer case fluid poured out, a lot of fluid. They are the only ones that service this vehicle so we were puzzled as to how it could be overfilled, especially by so much. Then I got to thinking, the engine has lost about two quarts of oil and the transfer case has mysteriously gained a bunch, possibly two quarts. So the question is, is it possible that the engine oil is somehow moving into the transfer case?
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My avalanche ac is not working correctly. The ac is not cold at all and blows out hot air when it stops. I refilled it with freon and it still doesn't get any colder. What might be the problem? And also even though I turn the ac up high, it doesn't blow very hard. (I used the gauge when refilling freon, so no overfilled).
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I have a 2002 Avalanche 2500 4w drive with the 8.1L engine. The problem is that it is leaking oil, but only after a long drive. Plus the leak happens like a spray after the car has been sitting for more than 20 minutes. The oil is leaking from IN FRONT of the driver's side front tire and I can't see any oil up on the car. The oil leak only leaks for a short time and then stops until the next long drive. The truck has 118,000 miles.
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Have a 2002 avalanche Z71. Transmission was rebuilt 33k ago. It currently shifts a little hard going from 1 to 2nd. Real problem shows up between 40 mph and 50 mph. It suddenly shifts into overdrive which drops the engine rpm waaay down and starts lugging the engine.
Took it back to the guys who did the rebuild. They drove it around and noticed that the computer reported no codes. They claimed it was the TPS and said to replace it. I did. Problem is still there.
Took it to a highly trusted mechanic. They said they think the valve body needs replacing but they don't do transmissions. The guy they recommend drove it around and he thinks it is the torque converter.
I am wondering what causes the computer to decide when it is time to shift into overdrive and I am wondering if there is some sensor that has gone whacko and needs to be replaced instead of starting to tear the transmission apart.
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I have a 04 chevy avalanche, when I turn on the cold air the drivers side blows hot air and the passengers side blows the cold air.
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I don't know how the story ended with the 07 4WD Avalanche with the unidentifiable noise - he said, "The noise always occurs between 45-60mph (not rpm-related) there is a groaning sound and it is accompanied by a vibration in the steering wheel. it is especially noticeable when going around turns.."He went on to say that he checked the hubs and they were fine, and decided that he would replace the tranny. I sure hope that fixed it.I had the same problem on my 07 4WD Avi, and the hubs checked just fine, smooth as silk, with no loose play at all. But on a 1000+ mile trip just a few days later, the groaning and vibration grew worse, but only when I went around a left curve. I barely made it to my destination - the right hub failed. If it had been groaning and vibrating when turning right, it would've been the left hub. I replaced both at the same time.
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I have a 2004 Chev Avalanche. Several times recently my check engine light comes on, the truck dings 3 times at me and a dash script tells me to tighten my fuel cap. I do and the light goes out within a few hours or the next day. I have changed fuel caps twice. This week the light came on, has not gone off and at least 3 time it has told me to tighten the fuel cap which I have done.
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My 03 Chev Avalanche is giving me a P0300 code (multiple or random misfire). With no distributor or individual coil is this something I can fix myself or is it shop time?
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So when its cold and im talking below 55 degrees, and the truck hadn't been started that day, it will turn over 3 or 4 times before the voltmeter takes a dive down to 10 volts or so and doesn't start. The voltage will keep falling if cranking continues. I took the batteries out and had them tested. They are both above the rated cca. So im thinking it could be the starter windings?
I did replace an injector recently so all the cranking to get it going again may have ruined the starter? But when I hook up the battery charger and jump the truck it starts. And after it has been started it will continue to start easily the rest of the day.
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I have an 02 Avalanche 1500 4wd z71. It has 173000 miles. Noticed a clunking noise under driver side when slowly taking off. If I floor it there is no sound at all. This only happens when vehicle is on 2wd mode. If I put it on auto 4wd there is no more clunking. The noise sound like two pcs of bare metal are hitting each other. What this could be.
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When pumping fuel in 07 silverado classic 1500 4.8L the gas pump at the station continues to cut off. Took me 20 minutes to pump. I now have a check engine light on and the code says it code be the EVAP vent solenoid or the purge solenoid. Truck seems to be running fine other than stronger fuel odor at the exhaust. which solenoid need replaced....
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My Sub makes a wonderful ticking noise that resembles a turn signal--it continues to tick until i apply the brakes. i have just replaced the brake switch and the noise is still there. All the lights on the vehicle are not illuminated while it is making the noise, it makes the noise while either driving or idling.
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Recently we purchased a 2011 Avalon Limited. 2 weeks later while driving locally, I noticed a vibration in the car. The vibration appears approx 37-38 mph, and continues up to 60mph. At 70 mph the ride is vibration free. Our car is still under warranty, while at the local dealership, questioning the vibration, they notice a "code" for the transmission. They replaced the transmission. We still have the vibration.
The following week they "force balanced" the wheels. We still have the vibration, now it is stronger. I am almost ill with the vibration. I actually feel it, not just a visual issue. There is a Tech report on the issue, with another Avalon experiencing the same issues. What the issue could be? Michelin Tires. This is our 4th Avalon. We have owned a 96 XL, 2001 XLS (the best!!), 2006 XLS, and now, after waiting many years, I was able to purchase the loaded Avalon Limited. Only to have issues that make me sick when I drive it!
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My 05 Explorer has started making a like slightly jumping motion and thumping sound when I let off the gas. It seems to maybe happen when it wants to gear down but it I give it the slightest gas it quits. Do you check the ans fluid when it's hot or cold? I checked it hot and it ran out.
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2005 ford f250 6.0 Started making this noise from front about a month ago, can't figure out what it is. Only happens when letting off accelerator or changing from P - D. The truck acts normal, seems to be louder when the truck is warm.
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my 97 chevy blazer has a lot of cranking first start in the day. I changed the rotor and distributor cap but I don't smell any fuel then all fo asudden it will start. I am wondering is it a fuel relay problem, a fuel filter, or some sort of sensor. when it does start it is very smooth running no shaking or hesitation full of power for the rest of the day starts and stops erands . is it worth buying a plug in code gadget and will this problem show up as a code.
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i've got a 2000 chevy impala 3.4 v6 E. runs great once it starts, but lately that takes a lot of cranking. it's getting spark. it's got a new alternator, battery, starter, plugs and wires (and i checked for spark already) I think it's a fuel issue but don't know where to start looking because it has no other problems. there's no smoke or noises, no misfires, or hesitations. i put in a new fuel filter. i have heard that it could be the fuel pressure regulator or maybe even a leak in the line that's causing it to not get pressure. i can't hear any sort of fuel pump sound (maybe i'm deaf) is there a way to check this without a gauge? i simply don't have one and don't have the money to take it to a shop. p.s. i recently replaced both o2 sensors, but i can't see how that would effect the starting. pump, hose, regulator, fuse?
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Truck has 190,000 miles. First, every now and then the truck won't start. Turn the ignition key to the start position and nothing happens - like the battery is dead. Turn the key back to the off position, wait maybe 10 - 15 sec. Try and start again - starts right up. This maybe happens about half the time I start the truck. Always seems to start first start attempt of the day. Only later does it start to behave this way.
I took it into a repair shop and they claimed it was the starter relay. After the repair (about two weeks) it seemed fixed - started all the time. Then a couple of days ago it began to do the same thing again. Only now, maybe 10 - 20% of the time doesn't want to crank (vice 50% or more before the repair). Doesn't seem to be the battery because when it cranks it cranks very strong and starts right up.
Now additionally, today, the truck just dies while driving. Doesn't stall or run rough just before dying - just dies - like turning the ignition switch to off. Interestingly, it starts right back up after this - no extended cranking, etc., just starts right up. I have tried "jiggling" the start switch to see if maybe it is failing, but it has no effect. That is, when the truck won't crank, "jiggling" the switch won't make it crank, and "jiggling" the switch while the truck is running doesn't cause it to die. Sometimes, the waiting 10 -15 secs or so between crank attempts doesn't work - that is, it doesn't crank, but if I open up the hood and take the starter relay out of its socket and put it back in, it cranks.
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