Chevrolet - Avalanche :: 2002 - Leaking Oil But Only After A Long Drive
Nov 24, 2012
I have a 2002 Avalanche 2500 4w drive with the 8.1L engine. The problem is that it is leaking oil, but only after a long drive. Plus the leak happens like a spray after the car has been sitting for more than 20 minutes. The oil is leaking from IN FRONT of the driver's side front tire and I can't see any oil up on the car. The oil leak only leaks for a short time and then stops until the next long drive. The truck has 118,000 miles.
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My mechanic told me that the burning smell I've been getting in my '02 Forester when I'm idling is a leaking head gasket. It seems to be a slow oil leak. If I keep an eye on my oil level can I continue to drive the car without doing further damage or having to worry about breaking down?
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My avalanche ac is not working correctly. The ac is not cold at all and blows out hot air when it stops. I refilled it with freon and it still doesn't get any colder. What might be the problem? And also even though I turn the ac up high, it doesn't blow very hard. (I used the gauge when refilling freon, so no overfilled).
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I have an 02 Avalanche 1500 4wd z71. It has 173000 miles. Noticed a clunking noise under driver side when slowly taking off. If I floor it there is no sound at all. This only happens when vehicle is on 2wd mode. If I put it on auto 4wd there is no more clunking. The noise sound like two pcs of bare metal are hitting each other. What this could be.
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My 2000 Chevy Cavalier LS has approximately 216,000 miles on it. I've recently noticed on long drives that the air conditioner will run fine for the first few hours, but then the amount of air begins to decrease, until the output from the "high" setting acts like I have it set on "low", and then almost quits altogether. What little air is coming out is still cool, so it's not a problem with the freon. If I shut off the a/c for awhile, everything works fine again upon restart, but then the same problem occurs. I have the same problem when using the heater, so I think it's related to the blower motor, resistor, fuse, etc., but don't know where to start troubleshooting first.
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How long you have to drive a car after you reset computer before all the systems will respond? I have an '02 RT with a 3.5L. I had to reset to clear a check engine light on Tuesday and when I went to get an emissions test on Friday it failed because it could not get a reading from the evap or cat sensors. He said I would have to drive it a while for those to have readings but how long.
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i recently purchased a 2007 Chevy Avalanche 4WD (75K miles) and much to my chagrin, in the first week, i detected a noise that has steadily become worse. the dealership (a Chevrolet dealer) has not been able to determine the cause. I've had it back four times already. The noise always occurs between 45-60mph (not rpm-related) there is a groaning sound and it is accompanied by a vibration in the steering wheel. it is especially notcieable when going around turns in the road at these speeds.
The dealer said it might be related to the alternative fuel management (DOD), but i deactivated the AFM and the noise is still there. I suspected wheel hubs but they checked and said the hubs are fine. The other day as i heard the noise i dropped it out of overdrive down into "3" and the noise suddenly disappearred. All gear shifts are fine, but this was somewhat alarming. I am beginning to think this might be related to the transfer case or front differential? maybe this would be good for "Stump the Chump" ?
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My 2003 Avalanche (5.3L) suddenly started losing oil, 2 quarts since my last oil change (3,000 mi). There is no evidence of it leaking and no apparent smoking, so when I went to get my oil changed today I was telling my mechanic about it. They couldn't find any evidence of a leak either. Then when the pulled the fill plug on the transfer case fluid poured out, a lot of fluid. They are the only ones that service this vehicle so we were puzzled as to how it could be overfilled, especially by so much. Then I got to thinking, the engine has lost about two quarts of oil and the transfer case has mysteriously gained a bunch, possibly two quarts. So the question is, is it possible that the engine oil is somehow moving into the transfer case?
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Have a 2002 avalanche Z71. Transmission was rebuilt 33k ago. It currently shifts a little hard going from 1 to 2nd. Real problem shows up between 40 mph and 50 mph. It suddenly shifts into overdrive which drops the engine rpm waaay down and starts lugging the engine.
Took it back to the guys who did the rebuild. They drove it around and noticed that the computer reported no codes. They claimed it was the TPS and said to replace it. I did. Problem is still there.
Took it to a highly trusted mechanic. They said they think the valve body needs replacing but they don't do transmissions. The guy they recommend drove it around and he thinks it is the torque converter.
I am wondering what causes the computer to decide when it is time to shift into overdrive and I am wondering if there is some sensor that has gone whacko and needs to be replaced instead of starting to tear the transmission apart.
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I have a 04 chevy avalanche, when I turn on the cold air the drivers side blows hot air and the passengers side blows the cold air.
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I have a 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche with the 5.3 V-8. When one goes to start the engine it continues cranking (sometimes) after the engine starts and you let go of the key . Sometimes it only does it momentarily; sometimes you have to manually bring the key back so it stops cranking. I have gotten several opinions. Some say ignition switch in the steering column; others say starter/solenoid; others say electrical problem such as a relay. Problem is it only does it sporadically and it never does it when I take it to the shop. What the problem is ?
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I have recently run into a problem with my transmission on my van, mainly that it won't drive forward, however reverse seems to work just fine. Prior to the problem: Before it stopped working altogether, there were a few symptoms that I should tell you before we get started. First, upon starting the vehicle and putting it into drive the vehicle acted like it was in neutral, or barely crawled forwarded. If you waited a few moments, or pressed the accelerator, it would quickly engage and once it had been driven for 5 minutes no more problems shifting gears would occur.
I attributed these problems to low fluid and/or cold fluid (as the problem would noticeably become better/worse with warmer/colder conditions respectively) So I was content with topping off the fluid and seeing if the problem persisted consistently when it got warmer. 2.) There would be at times a loud clunk when the gear finally engaged after pushing the accelerator.
I have a repair manual for the van which has a trouble shooting guide and it said to check the universal joint. I did, and it seemed intact, rust free, and fine. I researched it a little more and did not see any indications that this was an awful horrible problem, so again, I decided to wait until the weather changed to investigate further. Problem: One day I drove the van to north Austin and left it in a parking lot for a few hours while I went inside. When I came back out and started the vehicle it would not engage 'drive' no matter what I did. It has since been sitting in the parking lot for about 2 weeks and the owner finally gave me the boot so I pushed it out onto the street.
What I have tried: I found a leak where the transmission fluid connects to the radiator (a hose was clamped too hard) and seemed to have fixed that problem. So that solves the problem of why there was low fluid in the first place. I took the doghouse apart and replaced a few vacuum lines that were extremely worn and damaged. At one point this was causing the van to stall immediately after starting, but have since been fixed. I checked the shift linkage where it connects to the transmission housing and, luckily, was able to view the dial on the transmission case where it connected; all moves of the shifter do in fact engage the dial and turn it. I pulled the two electrical connections off of the transmission housing to inspect them for burns or corrosion, although I would doubt reverse would work if they were damaged, and found none. They seemed to be in fine shape. The throttle cable seems to be fine. The speedometer cable is missing I believe because I can't find it and the speedometer doesn't work. However, unless I'm missing something this wouldn't cause the problem. Fluid seemed dirty, but I did not feel that is had be roasted over a fire pit (indicating burned out parts?)
Possibilities: I am going to drop the pan today I hope and investigate a little further inside the transmission. The transmission fluid does NOT seem to be getting any hotter than luke-warm. From what my manual tells me this should not be. Transmission fluid should get to a point where it is too hot to comfortably touch. I am wondering if this could be caused by one of three things a.) Broken pump not circulating the fluid b.) Clogged filter - fluid unable to circulate c.) No vacuum - not allowing the pump to get adequate air pressure to operate. I am wondering if, maybe, the fluid is not being warmed enough to expand correctly to let the transmission operate.
I have heard that these go bad, but are cheap and easy to replace. I have put this option off because I'd assume the regulator controls more than one thing and so if it were broken something like say, the fuel system would be affected as well. Maybe I'm wrong? Could it also be the hose itself? I think there is also a short somewhere in the electrical system, although I think it's located in the heater wiring, because the battery will drain heavily when it rains and the heater is engaged. I have read somewhere that this may cause the transmission not to operate properly, but it seemed to me like it is something else. In any case, I have been stuck in Austin now for quite some time, don't have money to pay a shop 2,000 to diagnose, over charge me for parts, and charge 10 hours of labor for a rebuild when you can buy these transmissions, it seems, for relatively cheap. I am hoping this is a relatively simple problem that someone here would be able to recognize and diagnose, or at the very least be able to say: "Check and fix these 4 things and come back." I'm trying very hard to learn this car inside and out and the repair manual I bought doesn't want me playing with the transmission at all - simply says "take it to a pro chump"
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I don't know how the story ended with the 07 4WD Avalanche with the unidentifiable noise - he said, "The noise always occurs between 45-60mph (not rpm-related) there is a groaning sound and it is accompanied by a vibration in the steering wheel. it is especially noticeable when going around turns.."He went on to say that he checked the hubs and they were fine, and decided that he would replace the tranny. I sure hope that fixed it.I had the same problem on my 07 4WD Avi, and the hubs checked just fine, smooth as silk, with no loose play at all. But on a 1000+ mile trip just a few days later, the groaning and vibration grew worse, but only when I went around a left curve. I barely made it to my destination - the right hub failed. If it had been groaning and vibrating when turning right, it would've been the left hub. I replaced both at the same time.
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I have a 2004 Chev Avalanche. Several times recently my check engine light comes on, the truck dings 3 times at me and a dash script tells me to tighten my fuel cap. I do and the light goes out within a few hours or the next day. I have changed fuel caps twice. This week the light came on, has not gone off and at least 3 time it has told me to tighten the fuel cap which I have done.
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My 03 Chev Avalanche is giving me a P0300 code (multiple or random misfire). With no distributor or individual coil is this something I can fix myself or is it shop time?
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What are symptons of a "bad" drive shaft? Just curious because during a recent trip to the dealership for an oil change a mechanic told me I had one(I had mentioned I heard a noise that seemed to speed up and slow down as I drove-kind of a whirring noise). He arrived at that diagnosis by pushing down on the hood with enough force to make the vehicle(2002 Chevy Trail Blazer w/4wd) bounce up and down - there was a clunking noise. I haven't taken it in to have it looked at more closely, mainly because I am afraid of the cost. What's involved in replacing a drive shaft? What's the cost? If it is really "bad" will it break suddenly and cause an accident?
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I have a 2002 chevy Trailblazer that when you put it into drive there is a vibration.It does not do this in park or neutral. I have checked the engine mounts and transmission mount, and they look good. The vehicle has a little over 118,000 miles on it and the engine runs and drives great except for this vibration that i do not know where it id coming from. What may be my problem?
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I own a 2002 Chev. small blazer with 4 wheel drive available. Largest V-6 available. There is a clunk sound I can hear and feel as this vehicle is shifting OUT of 4 wheel into 2 wheel drive. Going from 2 to 4 wheel drive is perfect. First mechanic (test drove alone) said he would have to tear apart the front transfer case to determine fault. 2nd mechanic (with me along) did power brake slow turns in parking lot. Said the electric shifter was bad and would have to tear apart the transfer case also. Neither mechanic put the vehicle up on a hoist.
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44k miles . I have a 2005 Durango Limited with the GPS and DVD. The ac control is the digital display with auto sense. Also has rear ac and heat. The ac works great plenty cold but if I take a long drive up to 2 hours the ac will cut off like no air is coming out. I put the fan on high and you can hear the air but none comes out the top vents just a little from the Bottom vent, it is cold but very little air like someone closed the blend door. Also no air from the rear ac which can be controlled from the front or the back controls.
If I stop the car and let sit for say 20 minutes engine off then restart the car and turn on the ac all works well again for the next couple of hours. I have no problem driving around town with the ac on everything works well all speeds and directions. No check engine lights or codes!!
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Went on a long drive today. 800+ miles. Stopped to fill up around 500 in. Attempted to turn the car back on and it would just crank and not start. This has actually been ongoing for the past 2 years, but only when I take long trips like these. Got it to start after putting my foot on the pedal a little bit, but would idle roughly and die shortly after. Got it going again, and it ran fine once I started going after that.
Decided to check my scangauge, and it had a pending code of P2196. From what I understand according to AllData, the O2 sensor is running rich, which seems odd to me as I'm not burning more gas than usual (Achieved 33mpg according to hand calculations).
Starting to bug me that it's doing this. Car has 113k miles. All maintenance is caught up on the car. Battery is 3 years old (Not sure if that's a factor at all in this).
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I did a 9 hour drive last week and partway thru the trip the AC stops blowing out of the vents. No combination of punching buttons on the AC system solved the problem, although manually increasing the fan speed caused something behind the glove box to make a LOUD sound of rushing air (still nothing out of vents though). Finally I turned off the system completely for over an hour and then it magically started working again. I assume something in the system froze and had to thaw out. The exterior temp was low (mid-60s) but it was raining and the AC was keeping the windows un-fogged.
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