Chevrolet :: Low Power Up Hills And Hard To Accelerate Over 45 Miles Per Hour
Oct 23, 2011
I own a 1986 Chevy Silverado C10. I have replaced much of the truck in the seven years i have owned it, including the engine about 35,000 miles ago. The modulator valve on the transmission became unbolted from the transmission housing a while back (the "tab" of the transmission housing actually cracked off). The truck lost power when this happened and most of the transmission fluid leaked out before i realized something was wrong , stopped and called a tow.
I replaced the modulator and secured it with a "Z" shaped clip made of roughly 10 gauge steel that bolts to the modulator and then to the frame that suspends the transmission. Then i noticed a loss of power up hill and the truck has trouble accelerating over 45-50 mph., possibly has trouble shifting into over drive "?".
I replaced the detent cable next, and changed the transmission fluid, filter, and gasket while i was at it. I have also replaced plugs and wires, and done a general tune up since then, but i still have trouble on hills and accelerating on the highway. I drive up a hill every day coming home from work and the truck slows to roughly 25mph, even if i start the hill at 45mph., and it climbs slow and seems very bogged down. Something to check before i assume the transmission needs replaced.
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I had my transmission fluid changed because it was leaking from the pan. I did the job myself but called VW to confirm how much fluid I needed. They told me the wrong amount but we realized that after we did the job.. they did the repair for a huge discount and I only paid $200 bucks for the work for them to "fix" what they messed up. Volkswagen did it and I got the car serviced at the end of April basically. now its the first week of July and under 90 days since the car was service and now it is shifting hard between 2nd and 3rd gear or 35 miles to 45 miles per hour. The car isn't throwing a transmission code I have a vag com and there is no code coming up on that.
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3 months ago, my 2003 C240 Mercedes made a high pitched whine and would not accelerate more than 15 miles per hour and if I did go faster the whine got louder and higher in pitch. I took it to the local “foreign car” auto shop (I have had the car serviced there in the past) and they replaced what I believe that said was a “contact plate” something that controls the transmission is what I think I remember. Yesterday (just 3 months later) the exact same issue is occurring. Again I had it towed back to the auto shop and now they tell me the transmission is shot and they will need to replace it. They added it has nothing to do with the plate they replaced/installed 3month ago and they will give me a credit on the plate that installed 3 months ago. Are they correct?
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my 2004 aveo gallops when idling. when i put it in gear (automatic) it takes off by itsself. i dont have to touch the gas. going down the road it will climb to 50-60 miles an hour without touching the gas. i DO NOT have cruise control. what is wrong here?
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I have a weird problem with the A/C on my 93 S10. It will start blowing warm air but if I accelerate real hard it will start blowing cold again.
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Like I said, 04 cavalier automatic.. Bought it used over 200thousand miles, but in PERFECT SHAPE, engine is beautiful.. No leaks that I could tell from the ground. Just put on new rotors & breaks,.. Now the problem.. under neath my petals sounds like doo doo doo doo, like a really big fan, & Its hard to accelerate at 35-55mph.. When i do it has to like catch up with itself, as if not going into 2nd gear.
I know nothing about cars, so I am describing the best i can.. Its also been sucking gas like crazy.. but no leaks? All my lights are lit up.. ABS trac off, service, & check engine. One guy said the noise is someone impacted on my aluminum rims too tight & they could be bent, it was very hard for him to get my tire off to change rotors..
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Why does my 2000 chevy impala whistle when i accelerate? it also seems to shift hard.
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Every time I hit a hill, loaded or empty, or get on the truck on level ground after about 15 seconds it acts like it's running out of fuel. The pump starts getting noisy like it has air in it, but it'll straighten out eventually. If you don't let off the fuel it'll eventually stall out. No check engine light, no codes. Truck has a ts chip but it does it on all settings. New fuel filter, changed oil with hot shots secret, new air filter, hutch mod done. I'm at a loss for what to do. Good fuel pressure also.
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The car has drastically dropped gas mileage from 17mpg to 11-12 mpg. It's laboring, and I even have to accelerate going down hills where I am usually breaking to keep from going too fast. I have had the whole car looked over twice -- timing belt was a little old, so we replaced it. The gas filter was full of gunk, and it was replaced. Still has the same problem. Mechanic can't find anything else wrong. I'm getting ready for a long road trip and don't want to pay for all that gas or break down along the way.
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I have a 2008 Nissan Sentra with 90-something thousand miles on it. Last summer I moved from Texas to Oregon, so it went through 125° Arizona heat (during which overdrive stopped working for a while) and mountains for the first time. Ever since then, if starting from a parked position, I can't go over hills or bumps or even curbs. I can IF I was already driving on a flat surface. But if I stop on an incline and then try to drive forward (or reverse up it), I can't. The RPMs don't go above ~1.5k until I'm back on a flat surface.
The check engine light is on, and has been on since last summer, but the code it spits out is something dealership specific. People have told me it "might be something with the transmission". The problem hasn't gotten better or worse since last summer, so I just ignored it and got really good at not stopping before steep inclines or hitting curbs or anything (lol). But if I ever need to, I'll be in huge trouble. I can't even drive over medium sized rocks if I park too close to them.
The first time I found out about this was when I pulled into a friend's downhill driveway last summer, and then couldn't reverse out of it. He had to push it back up.
Note: from a stop, it will go up GRADUAL hills and over SMALL bumps just fine, but anything that takes more than 1.5k RPMs to overcome isn't happening. It will go up steeper hills and larger bumps (and curbs) only if I was already driving, but it still can't tackle the steepest mountain road inclines like other cars can.
The 1.5k RPM problem goes away when it's on a flat surface (or if I started driving on a flat surface before encountering a hill), and it accelerates normally again. However... It also takes a couple of seconds to rev beyond 1.5k RPMs after stopping at a red light.
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My 2001 tundra v8 4.7 liters. Will not go past 90 miles per hour.I'm not a speed person but I like to know my truck is in top shape.Odo reads 99073 on the i way I tried pushing it to a 100 mph but it not go, what's happening to my truck...
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I got my v-8 12-22-03, very pleased. however at exactly 53 miles per hour and higher a high pitched whistling comes from the right side of the sunroof, whether open or closed. The dealer is perplexed and stumped. Sticking my head out at 55 miles an hour is fun (very dog like and my son was driving) but no way you can hear anything and pinpoint the noise. It does not appear to be the roof rack which is properly installed and both in the rear. In the words of the teacher in ferris bueller..
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I have owned a 2007 2nd Gen Prius for about a month in a half. I love my Prius although I purchased it with high miles (just under 200K) I felt a little adventurous and took it on a rather lengthy trip from Ohio to Nebraska and then to South Dakota and back home) a few weeks ago and I've noticed a few things since.
Before this trip I could let my car coast down slight grades or hills with no issue. The car just coasted like normal which save gas of course. Well now on slight hills it feels as if the car is down shifting. It actually slows itself down slightly. On steeper grades it will still coast but up until a few weeks ago I could literally coast on a slight grade. Not so anymore.
Also when I accelerate now sometimes when I lift my foot off the accelerator it bucks or jerks. It's not very violent but noticeable. I didn't experience any of these issues before the trip. I was wondering if the rocky back gravel roads of Nebraska could be a contributing factor in any of this or perhaps the steep hills of Rapid City South Dakota (SD was when I first noticed the reduction in coasting)
I've been in to see the Toyota Service department In my area and of course they told me that, "Those Prii just drive like that". I refuse to accept that since I am very sensitive to changes in drivability in any vehicle that I own and I know that my Prius operates and feels differently than it did before.
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I have a question regarding my shaking car (Toyota Avensis Diesel 2.0 1999) while accelerating.
The shaking occurs when I accelerate, especially within the range of 45-75 miles per hour (70-120km/h). It's at it's worst around 60 mph. Whenever I release the gas pedal it stops. It also stops whenever I go faster than 75 mph. When I drive at a constant speed between 45-75 mph, the car stills shakes, but a bit less than when I accelerate. It doesn't seem like there is any specific location from where the shaking originates. It's all over, but there's no shaking of the steering wheel itself. The tyres are ok. After some suggestions I recently put some injection cleaner into a full tank, but with no results.
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I have a 2006 Camry with a steering vibration at 60-65 miles per hour. I have looked at all of the Threads for similar problems but everyone is guessing at the cause....stating "Check the alignment, check tire pressures, check the wheel balance, check the wheel bearings."
I have checked all of these things to the best of my ability and there does not seem to be a problem there. I bought new tires and had the front end aligned. Vibration still there. Had tires balanced 3 different times. VIBRATION STILL THERE. Removed wheels and inspected all suspension parts. No obvious problem seen. Switched tires front to back then left to right then front to back again. VIBRATION STILL THERE.
Forgot to mention that the right front is wearing on the inside but the alignment checks out. I had the alignment re-checked at the tire dealer and then checked it myself later in the month using toe plates that we have in the shop for our SCCA ITB Club Racer. Is there a Recall that I am not aware of ?????
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My 2007 Honda CR-V has started to vibrate when I am driving around 45-50 miles an hour. Seems to be in the wheels. Doesn't happen all the time. At first I thought the road was rough, but now happens more often only for brief period then drives normally. The majority of the time, it's when I take my foot off the gas to maintain or slow speed. Car dealer took it for a test drive. They told me my tire pressure was too high and took air out, but the problem persists. They checked the wheel bearings, the joints, etc.
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My 1990 Volvo is making a terrible noise at about 20-30 miles per hour. It only lasts a few minutes but it sounds like a plane taking off underneath the passenger seat (wagon). Had the muffler replaced, but it didn't fix the noise. I also have a high pitched noise at freeway speeds.
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I have a 2006 b6 it has a thump/vibration at 22 to 24 miles an hour. This may sound crazy but when you live in the city its awful! VW has replaced the transmission, both front axles and wheel bearings all around the car they have put the headphones on the car and cannot find the thump. The breaks have also been replaced rotors and pads.
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A mouse in my engine bay? No, not exactly... Although by the sound of it, it's possible. There is a squeak I hear when rolling at <40 miles per hour that happens randomly. It also happens when I turn my wheel from side to side while stopped.
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I have a 1993 Mazda MX-6. For the past 2-3 years, my car shudders when it idles or goes less than 10 miles an hour. More and more lately, it has been shutting off completely when I drive slow or come to a stop. The first few weeks it was happening, one day while in a Burger King drive-thru (of all places- how embarrassing), it shut off and I couldn't get it to start again.
The mechanic I took it to replaced the distributor to fix it. It has not had a problem starting anymore since then, but it still shudders very hard. Could it be something else that's wrong?
I have also discovered that turning on the air conditioning keep the RPMs to stabilize, and the higher I turn the A/C, the more power it seems to get. Don't know if that is related.
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I have a 4 cylinder 2003. When we drive on the street less than 40 miles per hour all is fine. But when we go faster than 40 a bad vibration starts and gets worse the faster we go, but only when you step on the gas pedal. For example, if your doing 50 and step on the gas there is a bad vibration from the front but if you release the gas pedal there is no vibration.
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