Chevrolet :: Coolant Reservoir Rubbed Against Drive Pulleys And Belts - Flashing CEL
Aug 14, 2013
I stupidly did not properly replace my coolant reservoir after cleaning it. Found out today after my check engine light came on. The drive pulleys rubbed against it enough to almost make a hole in the reservoir. After putting the reservoir back in the correct location, the check engine light stayed on. There is engine hesitation upon acceleration and the check engine light starts flashing even with mild acceleration. When I went to get it checked, I was told cylinder 3 misfire was the code. I suppose it is possible that the current problem is unrelated to the initial stupidity, but seems unlikely.
2002 Impala 3.8L
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The timing belt broke on my aveo, destroying the engine. I replaced the engine with a used one. Now I get the car back on the road and the automatic transmission won't shift from 3rd gear into 4th. Is it possible this problem was caused when the new engine was installed, or the transmission was damaged when the timing belt broke?
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Coming out the piece right behind the oil reservoir out a little hole whats this leak coming from...
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My Chevy Malibu is having a bit of trouble.
When I drive on inclines my reservoir leaks. It did it way more when I lived up a hill, but since I've moved to a more flat area, I barely see it.
A more serious issue I am having is with my ignition/gear shift. When I try to turn the car off it will not go to the OFF position. If I wiggle the handle, it will then go off.
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I've got an '08 Cobalt. There is a large leak in my coolant system. The plastic reservoir is empty and if I add coolant and start the engine it all gushes out of a hole in a piece of plastic on the side of the radiator. Can I drive it to the shop if I watch the engine temperature or should I have it towed? Is the engine temperature measurement affected by the lack of coolant?
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My 2005 chevy silverado 1/2 ton seems to be low a quart of coolant every 2-3 months. First alerted to this during a oil change, check it monthly and need to add a little to the reservoir every other month. The temp gauge never goes over half way. I do smell antifreeze after I shut the truck down after a significant drive, but only if I walk to the front of the vehicle.
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I have coolant blowing out of my coolant reservoir when ever i hold it to the floor it does it with or without the banks programmer... 6.0L power stroke...
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I've been getting a squeeking sound on idle, on occasions and when the car is under load with headlights, its one of the 3 drive belts but the car is only 4 years old with 17,000 kms
Is the squeaking sound normal for these cars, the belts visually look ok but a bit dry. Should I just change all three and be safe?
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info on changing the drive and power steering belts. I recently changed them on a 2003 Echo and took some pictures.
There are 2 belts on the Echo engine. A drive belt and a power steering belt. In order to remove the power steering belt you must, first, remove the main drive belt. If changing one it may be best to change both.
First remove right front wheel. Use jack stands to support the vehicle. Do not rely on a jack to hold it up. Next remove the passenger side front bumper cover. I feel it best to remove the cover as then you can do a test drive before enclosing everything. You can, if you wish, just lower cover to give access to the drive belts. With the cover removed, check the power steering pulley and make sure that you have access to the adjusting bolt. This bolt is accessed thru an opening in the pulley. See last picture.
Here are 2 pictures of the bumper cover installed and removed.
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What is the difference in drive/ fan belts with Cold Weather package and W/O cold weather package? As I have been trying to figure this out at the Irish part part it says for a single alt ....
Cold weather package the Outside Circumference (In): 121.900 and
Non cold weather Outside Circumference (In): 122.735 Inch
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'91 Blazer, S10, 2wd, 300,000 mi ....when weather cold, and car cold, I hear a loud slapping sound that I thought was a fan belt, but checked and they are ok...when car warms up, or when weather warm, I don't hear the slapping..... sounds like belt against plastic,,,,???
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I have a 2004 Honda Element and when the AC compressor cycles on it makes a high pitched noise similar to a drive belt slipping. The AC is still cold and the noise is not overwhelming (yet). I know this vehicle has a serpentine belt and that doesn't appear to be making any noise. The only noise is when the compressor is running.
Is there a belt that drives the compressor (other than the serpentine)? And, is this something that I should get fixed ASAP or can it wait until my next oil change? Meaning, if I wait until the oil change (under 1,800 miles) will hurt anything?
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Okay so recently I was driving my 2000 Jetta and the coolant temp light came flashing on, when I went to check the coolant I was surprised to discover that it was like a mud brown color, almost looks like peanut butter. From everything I have read this can be from a few things, either rust build up that is gunking everything up and oil getting into the coolant somehow. I'm pretty sure its rust build up but I was wondering what everyone thinks about this, I was also not using G12 coolant which I'm told now is the premier brand for VW's.
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I checked the oil it does not have coolant in it, so that eliminates the headgasket.
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My buddy has a 2000 1.8T Passat and he has oil in coolant reservoir. It does not blow out any smoke. It runs fine, and does NOT have coolant in the oil. We pulled off the oil/coolant heat exchanger on the oil filter and it appears to be good. We blocked off one end and filled it with coolant and put compressed air to the other end. Nothing came out. He took it to the shop and they said the turbo seals were good. I can't verify that though.
Head gasket? Worse yet cracked head or block? The car does have 170,000 miles.
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Pulled up to a red light yesterday evening and saw some smoke near the right side of the hood. I immediately checked out the temperature gauge and it was fine. Car didn't appear to be overheating. I make it home--2 more blocks--pull into the garage, leave the engine running and pop open the hood.
THE COOLANT IN THE RESERVOIR TANK IS BUBBLING LIKE HOT SOUP AND A NICE PUDDLE HAS ACCUMULATED NEAR MY FRONT RIGHT TIRE--NOT TO MENTION THE TRAIL OF COOLANT LEFT DOWN THE STREET AND UP MY DRIVEWAY.
After some minor research it appears that it can be a few factors (ie, thermostat, fans????) I assumed it was a cracked reservoir (which would explain the leak) but the bubbling it the real issue.
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Long story short, I got a 2001.5 1.8t M5 Passat with 63k miles 2 weeks ago.
This weekend I was driving around and pulled into the driveway and noticed the coolant was boiling in the coolant reservoir. It also looked like there was some oil in the reservoir. Take it to the shop, turns out that the plastic impeller on the water pump broke at 64k miles. This is wierd because the car never actually overheated. The mechanic doesn't think that the head gasket is blown or i have a cracked/warped head because the car still runs fine. He suggests I replace the water pump, timing belt, coolant reservoir, thermostat and obviously flush the coolant. I go ahead with the repair since its almost time for the TB anyway.
After bending over and taking it from the shop on a timing belt and water pump repair, I think I am all good. Today I open everything up after a few days of driving around just to check up on stuff. I open the coolant reservoir and there is telltale signs of oil in the coolant. Now i think this was an issue before the water pump went. Searching the archives I see that the oil cooler is a common failure. This could have also contributed to the failure of the water pump and maybe the thermostat, I don't know.
So instead of bending over for the mechanic for a second time in a week , I think I'm going to replace the oil cooler and flush the coolant system again and change the oil myself. Poked around looking at the oil cooler and it seems as if there is the slightest sign of an oil leak on the outside, which could mean there is a leak inside. I don't have compressed air so I'm not sure how I can test the oil cooler for leaks.
I am thinking i need:
-Oil cooler (some suggest S4, some suggest TDI one?)
-Oil cooler gasket
-Feed and return lines
-Hose clamps
-g12 coolant
-Oil filter
-Synthetic oil
Should I replace the upper and lower radiator hoses while I've got the coolant out? What else should I replace while the coolant is out. I see people suggest flushing the system several times. Should i use G12 everytime or can I just use water to flush until its clean and fill with G12?
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I have had my certified 2010 Prius since June 2015. Last Saturday I noticed my inverter coolant reservoir was on the low mark. I went to the closest dealer and they topped it off up almost to the full mark for free. I thought it had probably went down from evaporation and I just hadn't noticed it before. Yesterday I went back to the dealer where I purchased it which is about 90 miles away to have the CVT fluid changed. This morning the coolant was back down to almost the low mark. I looked on the ground and can't see any evidence of a leak. Tomorrow I have a appointment to have them check it. Since it is still in the one year certified warranty I don't know how motivated they will be to find the problem when they can't charge me for it. I don't think the level would have went back down right away if there wasn't a leak somewhere. I checked and there have been no recalls done or called for on it.
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Camry 2002 V6 SE.
I had my radiator changed about 2 weeks ago and ever since whenever I drive the car for longer than 30 mins the coolant reservoir boils over as soon as i stop. After much ado i decided to change my radiator cap to one with a higher rating (while my old cap had a 1.0 rating on it the new one has a 1.1 rating), the boiling over in the reservoir has stopped but the upper radiator hose is taut with tension every time and i'm afraid i might damage my engine eventually.
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been working on my passat for the last year oil cooler went bad and also my CCM fried. Anyways got the car running good or so i thought drove the car up the road today and my coolant sounds like it's boiling inside the reservoir.
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So it was like -10 here today, and I've had a coolant leak which could be the crack pipe? It's coming from the center of the motor and covering the oil filter housing. Anyway I've been adding distilled water until I could get coolant. So today I went out and the coolant reservoir was slushy ice. So I open the drain and drained a bunch out then added some coolant while it was draining to work along with running the engine a short time with the drain open and that got it flowing out. So I drained just about all fluid and put the half gallon I had leftover of g13 . Tomorrow I will go get more coolant. So the question is did I ruin my motor? Crack the block or heads? Should I fill the rest with 50/50 mix? When I ran the car it held operating temp just fine but the fan wasn't blowing warm.
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