I suspect there are very stinky mushrooms growing in the debris inside the ventilation system. We live in Florida and the van sits outside in an area in our yard where stinky mushrooms grow at certain times of the year. I have tried spraying Lysol in the outside vent with the fan on full. That seems to have worked over time but can I dump some vinegar in there without harming anything?
View 1 RepliesLike the title states my 04 egg has a sour smell when i first turn on the a/c. could this be mildew if so from where, are there fresh air filters in these? i already am not overly fond of this vehicle.
View 3 RepliesI wait for the glow plug to stop before attempting to start. Then it's like Aaron Tippin sings, "sometimes she runs, sometimes she don't". It turns over fine. When it's running, it runs good. But most times it won't start. The fuel is being stopped somewhere. The in tank pump is working..I can hear it when I turn on the key. What else can I check?
View 5 RepliesI have a '89 Chevy 350 v8 in my boat. It starts fine, but then stalled when decelerating, and would not start. I smelled some gas fumes when trying to start it after it had died. It started up fine the next day without problems. The distributor was just replaced so I know that is good. Not sure if this is related, but occasionally it will diesel a couple cycles when I turn it off. Could this be the carburetor, or something else?
View 9 Replies97 chev PU 3500 350 5.7 stops and starts while driving. Complete tune up ,Fuel pump ,filter , dist. and rotor.
View 4 RepliesMy 2006 Chevy Express 3500 (cutaway) 6.0L won't start when the outside temperature is below 35 degrees. Warmer than 35, it starts right up. Seems to be a fuel problem, as it fires, but doesn't keep running. I can start it by fooling around with the position of the gas pedal, but usually it takes a few minutes of cranking. My mechanic thought it was low fuel pressure and replaced the fuel pump- a thousand dollars later, it is no different.
View 15 RepliesMy 1995 Chevy Silverado 1-ton diesel stalls with no warning at various times while driving, such as at intersections, on the freeway, coasting, idling. It may go days or weeks without doing it, then all of a sudden stall eight times in one day. My husband says it has sediment, such as rust, in the fuel tank causing it to clog the fuel line. We've replaced the fuel filter twice, and we keep the tank topped off with gas, but it still does this out of the blue at times. I no longer trust the vehicle and will not haul the horse trailer using it, which is why I have the vehicle in the first place. By the way, the problem began after the truck sat for several cold winter months due to drained batteries. After we replaced the batteries to get it running again, it began stalling like this on a semi-regular basis. If it is rust or sediment in the fuel tank, what can we do to fix that? Could it be something else causing the problem?
View 2 RepliesHave had the vehicle since 24k miles - currently at 43k and just started doing this in the past 5k miles. When cruise control is engaged, and we go over a bump (of decent size) the cruise disengages. Perhaps a bad connection with a sensor? I do not know the cruise system that well on this vehicle and would like to know where I should start looking.
View 1 Replies94 Chevy W-4 wheel-lift wrecker 5.7L TBI4l80e trans
Had a run of about 100 miles round trip on Wednesday. On the way back running at 65 mph on the interstate, got a couple of quick muffler-end back fires and engine died. Coasted to shoulder. Had memory of almost exact same incident last year and it was dead ignition module. Fortunately had a spare (used) module in glovebox. Swapped it out and engine started right up. Remainder of trip didn't quit, but ran very rough, lots of stumbling and getting it up to 60 mph was a struggle. Also when I got on surface roads it died twice when I was sitting stationary. It would restart, BUT only after cycling key; if I just turned to the key to "start" from "on" it would crank but not fire.
Limped it to my tow buddy's shop where I freeload and told him the tale. He said, "throw those old spare modules away and get a new one". Called the local parts house and had them send two, one for installation and one for glovebox. Took for test drive and appeared to be running okay except idle was a bit low. Couple of hours later went on a call and first stop sign I came to, went "blip" and I'm dead in the water again. Same story as earlier, must turn key off and back on to get it to fire. Drove rest of day without incident. Yesterday, no issues all day, drove total of about 120 miles both highway speed and surface. Gassed up this morning and mpg was above average (yay!), actually about .5 above average which is significant improvement (about 6%). Success?
Today died four times while sitting still. Same having to cycle key for it to fire. Did some quicky t/s to satisfy my curiosity about the key cycle thing. With truck running, pulled fuel pump fuse to kill truck. Then reinserted and it started up without having to turn key to off. Tried same thing by pulling one of the module plugs to simulate loss of signal to ignition. Reconnected and again fired up without key cycling.
No codes at any time since this came up.
Swapped out the module since I had bought a spare, no change.
Ohmd the ignition coil and no problems noted. So far, only dies sitting still at idle.
Additional info:
Plug wires, cap, and rotor <1000 miles. Distributor low miles and negligible play in shaft. Pickup coil checks right in middle of ohm range. None of these, of course, should need to have the ignition key cycled to restart if they caused a stall.
Next up will be replacing ignition relay (had to order), but I'm not very optimistic.
I have a small leak of greenish fluid (appears to be coolant) coming from a silver/aluminum tube that runs the length of my van, just above the left rear transaxle. The leak seems to be in the tube, near a support that keeps the tubing flush against the undercarriage. It is a slow leak, but it is dripping onto the transaxle/transfer case, and is beginning to leave a small puddle on my driveway -- gets a little worse each time I drive. I haven't noticed much loss of coolant in the reservoir, so not sure what this is and how to fix it. I have a photo. I am thinking the tubing might be part of the heating system.
View 4 Replies02 Chevy 3500 quits while driving, all electrical shuts off. This is my work van, I am a Honda mechanic and can't figure it out. I need my truck for work on Monday! Think it might be ignition switch??
View 3 RepliesI have a 1998 chevy 3500 2wd pickup with a 454 engine. The check engine light is on. I have had the codes read and they were for a MAF and MAP sensors. I have replaced both. The check engine light is still on saying that I have a bad MAF sensor. I replaced it again. The check engine light still is on. What else should I look at to fix this problem??
View 19 Replies2003 Chevy Silverado 3500 driver side headliner noise. There is a buzz coming from what appears to be a small 1.5" diameter plastic fan cover. What is the fan for and can it be disabled?
View 5 Replies2006 Chevy Silverado 3500 (crew cab dually) with Duramax diesel and Allison transmission. Every time transmission is shifted into Park while the engine is running, the engine will shut off. The engine is able to restart, but this has never happened before.
View 1 RepliesMechanics say they don’t know what wrong… I had some transmission work done on my truck – mostly an leak and replacing the harness – and ever since then after it rains or if we have a heavy dew my truck does the following:
Driving from O to 49 miles an hour truck is fine, as soon as I hit 50 the truck starts surging and you can see the tachometer jumping from 2000 RPM to 2500 RPMs. I drive around 17 miles to work where my truck will sit for seven hours. On the way home the truck is fine. I find this to be more of a problem when the truck has sat for a day or two over the weekend without driving it. Sometimes the “check engine” light will come on, sometimes not.
I have taken it to two different places and neither one says they can find anything wrong with the truck. I have driven this truck for over 11 years and know it very well. There is something wrong, but what? 1993 Chevy Silverado 3500 Diesel....
I was considering getting a keyless start to preclude the considerable stinky smoke that occurs upon start up in the winter mornings. But it does this in the summer mornings too? How do you know if a keyless start would prevent this from happening?
View 3 RepliesKnow it's fairly common for AC air to smell moldy, due to moisture on the evaporator. What brand of disinfectant spray Volkswagen uses to spray into the cowl vents? I've heard that some manufacturers use Ultra Shield, and some sites say Lysol spray is okay, too. Just wondered if VW uses something else.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2007 Nissan Murano. When I first get into my car after it is sitting the smell of garbage is overwhelming! Once I start to drive it, the smell begins to disappear. The longer the car is sitting turned off the stronger the smell when I get into it. We have searched the vehicle inside and out for signs of food, although the car is extremely clean. We have also searched for reminants of a dead animal as well as moisture but have found nothing. Where to look next?
View 6 RepliesHaving issues with a stinky steering wheel? sometimes, i notice a unpleasant smell from it, especially when the car has been in the sun. when it's cold enough, it doesn't seem to smell at all. i know this is due to buildup of oils and whatnot from my hands.
I occasionally clean the wheel with baby wipes. that just minimizes the smell. And yes, I do wash my hands several times a day. I don't think i have particularly sweaty palms. I drive and '05 with no accessories on the steering wheel.
My husband drives a 97 Toyota Corolla. Great little car with one problem, it stinks. It smells like gasoline after its started. I never smell it from inside the car, just after its run when I exit the car. Took to a mechanic.... they couldn't find a leak and of course they didn't smell anything. He told me the LEFT OUTPUT SHAFT SEAL needs to be replaced but wasn't very positive that had anything to do with the gasoline smell. He only suggested replacing the gas cap, again, not with much confidence. Should I take it back, take somewhere else, anyway of narrowing down the possible leak areas myself or other suggested areas for them to look for the leak???
View 10 RepliesWe recently took our 2001 VW Jetta TDI in to a body shop to have a dent in our fender repaired that occurred the day after. The body shop we selected quoted us 5 days to repair the dent. Little did we know they'd also drop a toxic chemical bomb on the car's leather and vinyl interior as a courtesy.
When I picked the vehicle up I was greeted by the manager who told me the four-month-old, battery recently installed by one of Michigan's two trusted TDI specialists was dead (it wasn't). He told me I should just head over to the VW dealer to get it looked at (he said there had been an issue with the battery since I dropped it off a week earlier... when I questioned why he was just now telling me about this issue, he said he "just found out about it." Needless to say we got off on the wrong foot. I then noticed there were scuffs all along the bumper from the wax not being rubbed in properly and the red paint they'd sprayed on the repaired (and poorly reassembled) fender has also sprayed onto the black plastic below the bumper. But none of this matters compared to the significant loss of brain cells due to the chemical odor that my husband and I, as grad students, simply could not afford to lose.
As I was driving the vehicle the two miles back home, I noticed a strong smell that was not your typical "new/clean car" smell. While I got a little light headed, I didn't think much of it. Until the next day, after the car had been sitting in the sun, when I got in the vehicle to go grocery shopping and I noticed our beautiful, shiny black leather and vinyl had a white-ish residue that had dripped, smudged, smeared dried and crusted all over it. Further, I couldn't drive the car without the windows completely open without my eyes burning and throat getting sore and a severe headache.
I asked my husband to call the manager (he and I were already not on good terms). After convincing the manager the smell was definitely not from bike grease, the manager conceded that "MAYBE his new cleaning crew had used the wrong chemical when wiping down the interior of the car." Because the vinyl is now sticky and tacky, we were pretty sure it was a pretty strong solvent. The manager agreed to "go above and beyond and clean the car" himself - which he did attempt to do - and when I picked it up he did show me the solvent he thinks his cleaning crew used. Unfortunately, while much of the staining is now reduced, the smell is still very strong and is not only in the cabin but also very strongly permeated throughout the trunk.
It's been about a month and we've tried scattering baking soda throughout the trunk to no avail; I'm about to go to an auto parts store and see if there's anything else we can get to clean it out.