Have had the vehicle since 24k miles - currently at 43k and just started doing this in the past 5k miles. When cruise control is engaged, and we go over a bump (of decent size) the cruise disengages. Perhaps a bad connection with a sensor? I do not know the cruise system that well on this vehicle and would like to know where I should start looking.
View 1 RepliesMy wife and I are on a 2400 mile cross country road trip road trip and we just got a check engine light about 12 hours away from home. The check engine light, VSC, and tons of other lights appeared. Shortly after our cruise control disengaged and then A/C stopped blowing cold air. We were cruising along in 100F degree weather at about 75-80mph climbing a 10-mile incline with the AC on full blast.
We got to a Toyota dealership but they are closed until Monday so we'd have to wait 2 days for them to check it out. We went to pep boys and they found the code to be "Drive Motor B" which they said should be fixed by Toyota dealership (but he said he didn't really know what the issue is).
I did a quick search and found this might be the inverter coolant pump. Like another poster, I found the car seems to work okay when the AC is off.
My cruise control disengages with a significant bump.
View 14 RepliesWhat is causing this. I replaced ball joints & tie rod ends.
View 5 RepliesThe cruise control on my 2000 Blazer LS 4X4 is not working. I just changed the multi-function switch and still nothing. I looked at the throttle cables and they seem to be fine. All the fuses are good as well.
View 4 RepliesI bought my second used 2007 chevy silverado 2500hd classic LT 6.6l diesel and the cruise control and elevated idle wont work. have done tons of reserch. And have found nothing useful to my situation. have found everything from a simple fuse to a module which is expensive. i have checked that all my brake lights work, have checked all fuses and even bought a new column switch for the cruise control. That didn't fix it.
I am thinking the brake switch or possibly something with the trailer whirring might be shorted or installed incorrectly.the reason i think it has something to do with the brakes is it is a common denominator between the cruise control and the elevated idle. if elevated idle is on and you touch the brake pedal at all it shuts off and idles normal on a working system. which i know from my previous identical truck. the brakes also shut off the cruise if touched at all. i have had a hell of a time trying to figure this out.
I have a 2006 Chevrolet Equinox. The issue is that during the winter the cruise control works perfectly. During the summer it doesn't work at all. During the Spring and Fall it is intermittent. It's not a big issue but, my wife and I are moving to England soon and she wants me to take it to a mechanic before we leave. However, I think I can fix this myself but, have nowhere to start.
View 3 Replies2009 Chevy Malibu. My car's cruise control kicks off at random times. The control on the steering wheel will not re-engage the cruise control. It stops working until some random time down the road when I can finally reset. The tach will jump from 2 to 3 and seems to feel like it is shifting gears. The dealer reads no codes. How do I get this fixed. I drive interstate all week 50+ miles everyday and it is annoying.
View 19 RepliesI just recently started having trouble with the cruise control on my 2007 Chevy Malibu.
Last weekend, I went on an 800 mile trip (cruising most of the time) but stopped to have the tires rotated and balanced, and my oil changed halfway through (I was up for an oil change anyway). Got home late Monday, everything was fine. Then Thursday, my cruise control stopped working. The light on the steering wheel comes on to show that it is engaged, but I cannot set the speed.
The owners manual suggested it might be caused by low brake fluid. Checked that, saw it was a little low, maybe a centimeter, and filled it, but the cruise control still doesn't work. Thought maybe it was a fuse, but there wasn't a bad one.
I've seen some talk about it possibly linked to break or a transmission issue. For a few weeks, my Malibu has been making a lawnmower-ish sound when I drive 40 mph or faster. The problem persists whether its in manual or automatic. I didn't notice anything until I got my car back after loaning it to my parents for a weekend.
I bought the car used July 2010 from its first owner with about 37,000 miles. It's about 72,000 now.
I am trying to troubleshoot why my heater blower, cruise control and info center above my rear-view mirror has stopped working. I am trying to confirm power to an orange wire next to the driver-side fuse box. I have confirmed no power at the fuses. I am hoping the problem is the wire box below the fuse box and not the ignition switch. I have a wiring diagram and the power feed to these three fuses is via an Orange wire. There are two Orange wires in the box, I am trying to determine which one feeds the fuses for these three devices. I have a picture of the fuse box.
View 2 RepliesI wait for the glow plug to stop before attempting to start. Then it's like Aaron Tippin sings, "sometimes she runs, sometimes she don't". It turns over fine. When it's running, it runs good. But most times it won't start. The fuel is being stopped somewhere. The in tank pump is working..I can hear it when I turn on the key. What else can I check?
View 5 RepliesI suspect there are very stinky mushrooms growing in the debris inside the ventilation system. We live in Florida and the van sits outside in an area in our yard where stinky mushrooms grow at certain times of the year. I have tried spraying Lysol in the outside vent with the fan on full. That seems to have worked over time but can I dump some vinegar in there without harming anything?
View 1 RepliesI have a '89 Chevy 350 v8 in my boat. It starts fine, but then stalled when decelerating, and would not start. I smelled some gas fumes when trying to start it after it had died. It started up fine the next day without problems. The distributor was just replaced so I know that is good. Not sure if this is related, but occasionally it will diesel a couple cycles when I turn it off. Could this be the carburetor, or something else?
View 9 Replies97 chev PU 3500 350 5.7 stops and starts while driving. Complete tune up ,Fuel pump ,filter , dist. and rotor.
View 4 RepliesMy 2006 Chevy Express 3500 (cutaway) 6.0L won't start when the outside temperature is below 35 degrees. Warmer than 35, it starts right up. Seems to be a fuel problem, as it fires, but doesn't keep running. I can start it by fooling around with the position of the gas pedal, but usually it takes a few minutes of cranking. My mechanic thought it was low fuel pressure and replaced the fuel pump- a thousand dollars later, it is no different.
View 15 RepliesMy 1995 Chevy Silverado 1-ton diesel stalls with no warning at various times while driving, such as at intersections, on the freeway, coasting, idling. It may go days or weeks without doing it, then all of a sudden stall eight times in one day. My husband says it has sediment, such as rust, in the fuel tank causing it to clog the fuel line. We've replaced the fuel filter twice, and we keep the tank topped off with gas, but it still does this out of the blue at times. I no longer trust the vehicle and will not haul the horse trailer using it, which is why I have the vehicle in the first place. By the way, the problem began after the truck sat for several cold winter months due to drained batteries. After we replaced the batteries to get it running again, it began stalling like this on a semi-regular basis. If it is rust or sediment in the fuel tank, what can we do to fix that? Could it be something else causing the problem?
View 2 Replies94 Chevy W-4 wheel-lift wrecker 5.7L TBI4l80e trans
Had a run of about 100 miles round trip on Wednesday. On the way back running at 65 mph on the interstate, got a couple of quick muffler-end back fires and engine died. Coasted to shoulder. Had memory of almost exact same incident last year and it was dead ignition module. Fortunately had a spare (used) module in glovebox. Swapped it out and engine started right up. Remainder of trip didn't quit, but ran very rough, lots of stumbling and getting it up to 60 mph was a struggle. Also when I got on surface roads it died twice when I was sitting stationary. It would restart, BUT only after cycling key; if I just turned to the key to "start" from "on" it would crank but not fire.
Limped it to my tow buddy's shop where I freeload and told him the tale. He said, "throw those old spare modules away and get a new one". Called the local parts house and had them send two, one for installation and one for glovebox. Took for test drive and appeared to be running okay except idle was a bit low. Couple of hours later went on a call and first stop sign I came to, went "blip" and I'm dead in the water again. Same story as earlier, must turn key off and back on to get it to fire. Drove rest of day without incident. Yesterday, no issues all day, drove total of about 120 miles both highway speed and surface. Gassed up this morning and mpg was above average (yay!), actually about .5 above average which is significant improvement (about 6%). Success?
Today died four times while sitting still. Same having to cycle key for it to fire. Did some quicky t/s to satisfy my curiosity about the key cycle thing. With truck running, pulled fuel pump fuse to kill truck. Then reinserted and it started up without having to turn key to off. Tried same thing by pulling one of the module plugs to simulate loss of signal to ignition. Reconnected and again fired up without key cycling.
No codes at any time since this came up.
Swapped out the module since I had bought a spare, no change.
Ohmd the ignition coil and no problems noted. So far, only dies sitting still at idle.
Additional info:
Plug wires, cap, and rotor <1000 miles. Distributor low miles and negligible play in shaft. Pickup coil checks right in middle of ohm range. None of these, of course, should need to have the ignition key cycled to restart if they caused a stall.
Next up will be replacing ignition relay (had to order), but I'm not very optimistic.
Question regarding a 2002 Dodge Dakota, 2wheel drive ext cab 100,000 miles 6 cylinder engine. Cruise control stopped working, get the indicator light on dash, but no cruise.
Would I start with the Clock Spring? Will Durango parts interchange? ABS Light, was told the problem is the main unit that mounts on the driver side fender. Have tried replacing with other units from the local scrap yard, but still get warning lights/sounds.
I have a small leak of greenish fluid (appears to be coolant) coming from a silver/aluminum tube that runs the length of my van, just above the left rear transaxle. The leak seems to be in the tube, near a support that keeps the tubing flush against the undercarriage. It is a slow leak, but it is dripping onto the transaxle/transfer case, and is beginning to leave a small puddle on my driveway -- gets a little worse each time I drive. I haven't noticed much loss of coolant in the reservoir, so not sure what this is and how to fix it. I have a photo. I am thinking the tubing might be part of the heating system.
View 4 Replies02 Chevy 3500 quits while driving, all electrical shuts off. This is my work van, I am a Honda mechanic and can't figure it out. I need my truck for work on Monday! Think it might be ignition switch??
View 3 RepliesI'm at my wit's end trying to install cruise control in my 2009 Corolla. I thought it was a relatively easy install, but then after putting the airbag in place, I find that the horn no longer works. I test out the cruise control, and the green "Cruise" lights up on the dashboard..but it doesn't actually work.
View 9 Replies