Chevrolet - 2500 :: Click When Turn The Key / Try Again Starts And Clock Sets Back To 1200
Jan 23, 2013
I've got a 2008 chev 2500 6.0 liter. This is a intermittent problem. Turn the key "click" nothing happens, try again it starts. Clock sets back to 1200. Chev garage says it's not starter because clock sets back to 1200. Lights will slightly flicker when you step on the brakes. Grounds have been cleaned, battery 1 year old. Ignition switch tumblers working hard. Any guesses. Chev garage cure is run it til it dies.
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1997 Chevy C2500 silverado... Ok, so when i go to turn my truck on she'll sit there and chug as it starts. usually a few seconds and then roars up just fine. However I've noticed a couple of distinct things. 1. when it does start i see a second or three of black exhaust come from the tail pipe. 2. if its been started recently. IE within 24 hrs it has problems. but if i leave it over a weekend then the first start has no problems. 3. Last weekend we replaced the Fuel filter and the first few starts there was significantly less problems starting but after 5 starts its back to doing it again.
I checked and the fuel pump does work, I've tried changing the fuel filter ( #2 above), and put sea foam into the gas tank hoping to clean out any gunk in the lines somewhere. It does turn on and when it does it runs great so i know its not having electrical problems as well as the alternator is charging like normal.
Im about to take it in for an oil change and see if that does anything, and I'm praying its not a clog in the Catylitic converter.
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I have a 2001 Chevrolet 2500 HD crew cab truck and the drivers power seat will move in every direction but back. The motor hums when every button is pushed but when I push back the motor just clicks once and then nothing. Nothing is in the tracks or otherwise impeding the seat from moving backwards.
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Mechanics say they don’t know what wrong… I had some transmission work done on my truck – mostly an leak and replacing the harness – and ever since then after it rains or if we have a heavy dew my truck does the following:
Driving from O to 49 miles an hour truck is fine, as soon as I hit 50 the truck starts surging and you can see the tachometer jumping from 2000 RPM to 2500 RPMs. I drive around 17 miles to work where my truck will sit for seven hours. On the way home the truck is fine. I find this to be more of a problem when the truck has sat for a day or two over the weekend without driving it. Sometimes the “check engine” light will come on, sometimes not.
I have taken it to two different places and neither one says they can find anything wrong with the truck. I have driven this truck for over 11 years and know it very well. There is something wrong, but what? 1993 Chevy Silverado 3500 Diesel....
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I have a 97 2500 454 it dies like you trun the key off, but there is still power to turn the engine over but the truck wont start, and after a couple of tries it will start. It might go for a week and not do it or it might go a couple of miles.
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2007 Grand Caravan SXT, 86K Miles
Factory Radio Clock, AM/FM, CD and Tape Player.
Radio and Clock looses power and completely shuts off and will not turn back on while driving. Miles driven does not seem to be consistent.
All other Electrical seems to work fine, overhead console, Wipers, Blower, Turn Signals, Head Lights, Instrument Panel all seems fine.
When car is shut off, Blower continues to run for a few seconds and then stops.
When car is restarted Radio/Clock magically comes back, clock is reset to 12:00 and radio is on AM.
Get some funny flashing of Idiot lights on cluster that to my recolection is not normal behavior. Once while my wife was driving it the Vehicle Theft Alarm Light came on when she started it up and it stayed on until she stopped and then started it back up when she left the store she was at. That has only happened once.
I checked the Battery Voltage while running and stopped and all seems normal. The Battery was new this December. I also checked fuses and there are none that are blown.
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Elantra has set for a couple months. Wife totaled her other car so is gonna start driving this again. Well any ways wen the car sets and idles it starts to overheat. When driving it never gets hot. New thermostat and fluids...
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My diesel suburban dies while driving. It starts right back up. I have changed the fuel filter and checked for water in fuel.
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I've been dealing with a frustrating issue for a while now. Whenever I use my key fob the alarm sets but my front and back driver side doors won't lock. After playing around I've noticed that the driver's side door locks when actually inserting the key and turning. Also, all of the doors lock when I am sitting in the driver's seat and push the lock button on the door panel but the back driver's side door won't unlock unless I crank the vehicle and hit the unlock button. I don't think the key fob has a low battery because I've used both key fobs and it locks one side but not the other. It's all very weird to me. The situation is frustrating for two reasons:
1) Doors are not actually locking so thieves have access to whatever they can grab and run away;
2) I occasionally forget to hit the unlock button and cause my alarm to go off and annoy neighbors, coworkers, etc.
What could be causing this? I'd like a quick fix but I'm afraid I'm going to have to open up the door panels and play around all weekend.
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2002 Pontiac Grand Prix GT. It's got a NA SII 3800 3.8L engine. So far we have put $337 into trying to fix it. What happens is:
Go to start it.
Turn key to On.
Turn key to start.
It either cranks over a bunch of times and never starts or it starts and dies or it starts and is fine. Every time it wont start after cranking a bunch you give it GAS and it revs up real good and starts fine. Idles at around 1200 RPM. This poor car. There has never been anything wrong with it. Replaced the catalic convertor once and the battery once. We took it in and they replaced the Cam sensor and the Crank sensor to try and fix it because they said the fuel pump registered fine.
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I drove two days ago. Yesterday I didn't drive. I just walked out to start my car and it won't start. It keeps cranking (click noise). The lights are turned on, locks response to my remote, radio works, but I noticed the clock was set back to 12:00 and it's 4:00pm right now.
Two days ago, I noticed my car hesitate a little when I accelerated to 35-40.
I drive a 99 1.8 t Passat
Turns out i needed a battery replace. my battery was having 67 amps compared to 500 requirement.
Question: Does low battery life cause the car to hesitate (like as if the cylinder misfire) at 35-40 mph acceleration?
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It started snowing going down to 10-15 degrees during school hours. and whenever i go to turn my car on it starts but immediately the RPMs rise to about 1300 and then immediately drops to about 300 then immediately back up to 1200 but stays steady until it warms up then drops to normal about 700. i understand the cold start when it idles high until it warms up but why does it drop then come back up?
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I can smell transmission oil burning through my engine. Is it because my modulator is faulty, or do I even have one? Do I have a solenoid instead? How do I get to the part, whichever one it may be?
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I have a 1998 Chevy K2500 with a 350 engine. 220,000 miles. It starts fine when cold and drives fine. My problem is when I shut the engine off say to get gas or run into a store. When I return to start the truck it will just crank over as if it is not getting gas. If I pump the gas pedal it will fire up after a bit. It will start to stall if I put it into drive but will recover if I continue to pump the throttle. Once I am under way it drives fine until I make another stop. The check engine light is not on.
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I have a 3/4 ton chevy silverado. It has 106,000 miles. I have not had the transmission fluid changed yet. I've read it is best to change fluid between 60,000 and 100,000 miles and to change this every 30,000 miles. I've also heard that if I have not had this changed prior to 60,000 miles that it is too late to change this now. Is this correct? Recently, I've noticed the transmission slips when shifting geers(this is automatic transmission). What do you recommend.
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I have a 2006 Chevy 2500 with a leaking steering gearbox. It is leaking where the steering column goes into it. What do I have to do to repair this problem?
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I have a 1990 chevy K2500 5.7 350 tbi with 255000 miles on the body and engine. transmission replaced at 200000. When I drive long enough for the truck to get hot (i.e., 10 minutes or so) if i put it in reverse to back into a parking space or my driveway, it just shuts off. i have had fuel filter and fuel pump replaced but what could cause this? it will stay on if I don't drive long enough to get hot.
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Engine cranks but will not start, it kicks back after cranking over for a couple of times i have replaced the crank sensor it has done this once before it kicked back hard enough to knock a tooth off of the flywheel after replacing flywheel and starter it started fine for three months then it kicked back hard enough to break a starter mounting bolt. i replaced bolt had starter checked and replaced again?
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i have a 1993 3/4 ton pickup 5.7 and it just started to shift rough it has to get up to 4000 rpm to shift from 1-2 and 2-3 someone told me to change the filter another person told me to check the vacume line i went under truck and found a vent tube out the side not sure what to do
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My wife drives a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. Recently the car started idling very rough with rpm jumps back and forth from 1500 to 2500 rpm. The check engine light came on and threw a code for the IAC. I also notice a clicking sound coming from the engine and I can see sparks arching at the coil/plug wire. The arching is happening at the coil with the numbers 1 & 4.
The car is difficult to drive. It shakes and surges and isn't pleasant to drive at all. These issues started happening very recently. The car ran great up until now. We've stopped driving it for the time being until we solve the problem.
We had the car serviced a few years ago and they changed the IAC and mentioned something about a gray wire that we should watch out for.
I'm not really sure what the issue is. I don't know if it is the spark plugs, wires, or coil. Or it could be the IAC or something else. I'm comfortable working on the car myself, but I would rather not try fixing many things if it is just one thing actually wrong.
So far, the only thing I've tried is to spray some carb cleaner into the throttle body towards the IAC in hopes that it would clean it and solve my problems.
Where the IAC is located. I want to try remove and clean it, but I'm unsure of exactly where it it. I know it is somewhere on the throttle body or intake manifold, but I'm not sure exactly what I'm looking for.
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Mt truck will suddenly die while going down the road. I know it has a oil sensor and wont start or run with oil is low,but recently it just dies in the middle of the road or won't start after a drive of a few miles. After sitting for a few minutes it will usually start. This was happening a couple of times a day until this week when we have had ice and snow, we have been in four wheel drive for four days and it hasn't died or failed to start even once. Whats up with that ?
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