MY 2005 chevy silverado 2500 developed brake problems. The power steering pump, master cylinder, and Hydro static something or other has bee replaced.Now the pedal fades with constant pressure. The shop tells me this is ok but today at at a downward sloping boat ramp with the pedal at the floor, it was very scary.Before the parts were replaced this problem did not exist.
View 2 Replies2005 VW Jetta: The brake indicator light came on in the dashboard. I took the car to the dealer, and they replaced the front brake pads. Indicator light is now off, but I drove away with a new problem: The pedal fades as it comes to a stop. I have to push almost to the floor to stay still. Sometimes the car drifts forward if I'm not consciously pushing down harder than usual on the pedal. The dealer took the car back for a few days, replaced the master cylinder, bled the lines and did not charge me. But the problem is still there. What went wrong?
View 10 RepliesReplaced my rotors and pads and I still do not like the braking feel as I apply constant pressure to the pedal. No matter what I do, I cannot apply even or consistent pressure to pedal and get the car to slow down smoothly or in a linear way. It feels like some power assist component applies varying force to the calipers no mater how slowly or quickly I try to slow the car down. It just isn't smooth like other cars I own. The brake pads grab fine, no warped rotor issues. Does your car brake smoothly from 40 MPH to 0? Is there some power assist unit that may be going out?
View 2 RepliesI have an '89 GMC Sierra which has the standard rear wheel anti-lock brakes offered that year and a vacuum booster. It has about 180,000 mi. on it. I have a problem with the brake pedal fading to where it goes completely to the floor. This happens whether the engine is running or not. The brake warning light is not on (but is operable), there is no air in the lines, and their are no external leaks. The resevoir has stayed at full level. I rebuilt the master cylinder and the bore looked great as did the seals, but I installed the rebuild kit anyway.
There has been no change in performance. Can this be a problem with the isolation/dump valve assembly leaking internally. I would think that would cause the warning light to come on. The i/d valve is a costly part to replace and I hate to experiment on such a solution without some confidence in the source of the problem. The GM Service Manual troublshooting indicates air or internal master cylinder leakage is the culprit, and indicates the light would come on for any i/d valve problems.
I recently purchased a mutt of truck, a 97' F150 heritage w/5.4 Triton motor, 1/2 ton 2WD short bed.
Having a brake issue, the pedal keeps fading. I noticed it first while sitting in traffic on a down hill grade. I am holding the pedal and notice it starts to creep down slowly, I pump it up and it firms up then starts collapsing again. So general logic says hydraulics are loosing pressure right?....No leaks anywhere, so it must MC tight?
I have replaced the master cylinder, brake booster, and both rear wheel cylinders. Long story short they all needed it, truck has 265K+ on the body with 95K on the motor. The only thing I did not do by standard is bleed the MC on the bench, I installed and long bled starting with the right rear working my from longest distance to shortest (wheel speaking). So when bleeding I did of course get air coming out because of the new parts but I still have the same fade issue.
I am confident there is no air in the lines, I have bleed a quart of brake fluid through just to be sure. I have read a lot about proportioning valves and ABS stuff.
I will try and get some vehicle specific photos and attach have hit a road block with this. I am leaning towards the ABS valve thingy mounted on the drivers fender that has four lines attached (2 in and 2 out). Other than that it comes down to hard lines which have no leaks.
The brakes surge with more power when the brake pedal is held at a constant pressure. My guess it has to do with the brake booster. But normally a failing booster would result in less braking ability not more.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1985 Chevy 2500. after sitting for about 3 or 4 months the rearmost brake fluid reservoir is empty. Does the rear reservoir supply fluid for the front or rear brakes?
View 14 RepliesI have changed the master cylinder and bled the brakes but I need to find out how to set the brake light switch that is located on a crossmember under the radiator. The master cylinder went bad and all the fluid leaked from the rear reservior causing the brake warning light on the dash to come on. How do I reset the switch?
View 3 RepliesI started my 05 prius this morning, and it starts up and is running in normal time. But there's a constant long beep tone that doesn't shut off and after it starts it shoves the break pedal back out while my foot is still trying to keep it depressed. There's a brake light that is on after, but no error icon on the display. I didn't try driving it to see if it lets me, because of something possibly wrong with the brakes. What might cause this?
View 4 RepliesI have a 98 ford Explorer that has some serious trans problems. It all started a while back when I was pulling a small 10 foot trailer and when I go to where I was going the trans puked out what looked like all of its internal fluids. It was a hot day, and these problems seem to be exacerbated by the heat but who knows. Yes the check engine light is on. I also have the occasional O/D OFF light blinking at me. As of late the vehicle has started to act like it has a stall converter on it. I have to rev to nearly 3k RPM before it will engage.
I changed the fluid and filter about 2 months ago and the fluid is already grey and nasty. The vehicle has also started going FORWARD in ALL gears, Reverse, Neutral, etc. all are forward gears now. The trans occasionally overheats and pukes out a large amount of fluid but I cannot tell where it is coming from. At road speed (55 MPH) the engine surges when it is at a constant 2500 RPM. I know my outlook is grim but if I just need a new torque converter I would like to know before I go the the Salvage yard for a different transmission. BTW. The engine WAS replaced around 12,000 miles ago with a donor engine from a flipped vehicle.
I have a 2000 Silverado 1500 replaced calipers, master cylinder, and ABS Pump/Modulator. Bled all four calipers. Brake pedal spongy and has very little pressure and travels all the way to the floor. What am I missing here?
View 8 RepliesI am sure some of us have heard and read the no oil pressure situation. i had it happen to me and I replaced the oil pump and pick up tube all new oe gaskets with the replacement. i still have the same problem. No oil pressure and the tick sound.
View 3 RepliesMy old 1997 Dodge Caravan (150k miles) has weak brakes. During normal driving, it needs more pressure on the pedal to brake normally, than any other car that I have driven. This would be ok as I can push hard on the pedal... But the problem is that, past some point, I get no additional braking power no matter how hard I push.
So in case of an emergency, I cannot come anywhere close to lock the wheels (and this car does not have ABS). So basically, the braking power is proportional to how hard I push, up to a point where the braking power remains the same no matter how hard I push. At that point the pedal is maybe 1/3 down, still very far from the floor.
I have just replaced the front pads and rotor with no improvement. And when the engine is not running, the pedal gets really hard after I depress the brakes 3 times, indicating that the booster is doing something. The car will stay in the driveway for now as this is a dangerous situation.
I have only 42k km or 26 k miles. Brake stops but soft. The brake pedal sink if you apply pressure after a stop. Feels like someone open a valve. The pedal go to very low. I am find the stopping power is poor. Brake fluid is brownish. I hope it is not the master cylinder.
View 20 RepliesMy mom's Jetta has had a squishy brake pedal ever since we got it a couple years ago. I figured it went down so far because the brake pads were wearing thin.
After having just replaced the pads and rotors, I flushed the fluid with the Motive power bleeder. I cycled the ABS pump with VCDS, then hooked the power bleeder back up and opened all four corners again until fluid was flowing clean and bubble-free.
Everything went well with the change, but the brake pedal never got as firm as I expected it to. Before the change, the pedal felt like it would get dangerously close to the floor. The brakes always worked, but the pedal hit about 60-70 percent of its travel before the car started slowing down. After the change, it has improved slightly, but it feels like its going about half-way before the brakes start working.
The pedal doesn't drop when you hold pressure on it like I figured it would if the master cylinder was leaking. Is this normal for a mk4 or does it sound like there's something wrong?
Car is a late 2001 2.0 Jetta Automatic with the MK60 ABS pump.
I am working on a e-150 van, 2005. the brake pedal fades to almost the floor with little pressure on it. I just replaced the master cylinder, bled the entire system, and it STILL fades to the floor. driving, or in park. engine running. 4 wheel disc, 4 wheel abs...
View 5 Replies1996 chevy s10 pickup with 96500 miles. Have been dealing with this problem for more than a year. Replaced master cylinder once, brake booster twice and the abs pump (cost more than the transmission). My new mechanic has bled the lines twice, replaced the master cylinder and brake booster and apbs pump and is now at a loss. The brake pedal will go down half way and stick with a loud vacuum leak 'whistle'. I can pry the pedal back up with my foot and then it will operate find for a few days...then whistle again. I love this truck, the engine is strong (new tranny 9 mos ago) and the body in great shape. I don't and can't afford to get rid of it yet.
View 9 RepliesSo I have a 2004 Jetta 1.8t. Recently I noticed an issue with the brakes. It is a rare occurrence that this issue happens. Maybe 1 out 6 times I slowly stop the brake pedal seems to put pressure back against me applying brake pressure and makes somewhat of a grinding noise and the brakes don't seem to grab as well. But a split second later the brakes return to normal and grab as expected. Could it possibly be air in the brake lines or something totally different?
- Front brakes are in excellent condition.
- Just replaced the driver side front abs sensor and put new rear brakes and rotors on.
I own a 2000 Hyundai Accent with 85,000 miles on it. I recently took my car into a local shop because the pressure on my brake pedal was extremely low. I was almost pushing it to the floor. On my first trip to the shop, they replaced the rear wheel cylinders because they were leaking. This replacement didn't fix my problem.
On the second trip to the shop, they replaced my master cylinder. I did call around to other shops to do a price comparison and the price was reasonable on both jobs. This work was done about two weeks ago.
At first, this seemed to fix my problem, the pressure was perfect. Since then I've been having an intermittent problem with the brake pedal pressure changing. It would get a little hard during driving, but would correct itself after a few moments. I don't drive that often or very far, so I was waiting to see if the problem would get worse.
Last night it did. I went out and when I tried to drive my car home my pedal was extremely hard. I could barely push it. While I was driving my car home (I was close to home), it felt like I was driving with my brakes on. My car would stop as soon as I took my foot off the gas pedal, I could not coast. When I got out, I could feel heat coming from the front tires, which I didn't even have work done on. There was also a smell that I've never smelled before. It almost smelled like something burning.
I was told I should have my car towed back to the shop on a lifted bed and not rolled there and that they should fix my car at no charge because they did something wrong.
My ultimate question is did the shop do something wrong and should I take it back to them if they did? Should they be responsible for this new repair? I don't want to go demanding anything if it's possible this is a whole new problem and not their fault. Even though it does seem like an awfully big coincidence. My next question is: what could be possibly wrong with my car? I would like to know what I'm getting myself into.
R logo on the brake caliper clip fading? Mine doesn't seem as "clear/clean cut like it should be, seems kind of faded....
View 15 RepliesNoticed blue calipers losing their color? Specifically looking like they have a dull coat of wax on them that doesn't come off with normal washing.
View 8 Replies