Chevrolet :: 2009 - Lack Of Power Intermittently?
Jul 11, 2015
Hey I've had this truck since 2009, it's a 2000 silverado 2500 (nonHD) extended cab long bed 4X4 with the cast iron head LQ4 (6.0) and 4L80E trans. It has almost all the options of the day...
I bought it with 77K it now has 138K and has had this problem since the day I got it... When accelerating it intermittently has no power from a stop. It has really high gears (like 3.42 or 3.73) as opposed to our farm truck which is an 05 2500HD which has 4.10's...
What happens is when I take off from stop, it will be a total dog off the line it doesn't matter if the tank is full or empty, truck is hot or cold, part throttle or WOT. Regardless it has no freaking acceleration. That is until you get to just before the shift point then the power comes back and it puts you in the back of your seat just like a 6.0 should. Then the truck shifts into second and has the normal amount of power.
I have had several local mechanics try to fix it, it has been given a tune up plugs wires filters etc. It has had the TB and MAF off and cleaned. Over the years the fuel pump and sending unit replaced etc. Over the years I have replaced the O2 sensors (with ac delco) both cats, IAC TPS crank positioning sensor, EGR and possibly others...
I have put a fuel pressure gauge on it but it never seems to have a problem when you have time to mess with it..
Possible other theories include but are not limited to: Fuel pressure regulator? some intermittent vacuum leak? partially collapsed lifter?
NO CEL, it runs smoothly though lately (last month or two) the idle is all over the place... tends to idle high... It has had a slight knock since I've owned it.. I had a theory that maybe the knock sensors were pulling power, but wouldn't that trigger a CEL?
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I just did my plugs in my 04 F150 5.4 The truck had a really bad miss, and I figured it was time for plugs. I broke all eight plugs which I expected as the plugs were in there since new and had 120 000 miles on them. Replaced with champion double platinum and I am not certain that was the best idea.
The truck is much better with the new plugs but still has a miss and a rough vibration. The truck seems to shake side to side at idle but smooths out during normal driving conditions. I have noticed that it seems to lack power intermittently if that makes any sense. Also, the check engine light was on for a while but I tracked that down to a broken wire in the evap system.
So I am thinking first step is to verify that the coils and boots were installed correctly. I have to see if we have the scope module for the Genisys at work. I am going to check for vacuum leaks as well. I just changed the fuel filter and no change. Is there anything else I should look at? Would cam phasers cause a rough idle and intermittent loss of power?
I don't drive this truck every day so I can take it apart to diagnose it further...
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I have a 1992 Chevy C30 Step Van. V-8 with automatic overdrive transmission. When driving in hilly terrain at around 70/75 mph, the van will lose some speed and when it gets to about 60/65 mph it backfires and seems to lack enough power to downshift. I've tried not using the overdrive selection and it does seem to do a little better, but stil backfires some. I've changed rotor and distributor cap and tried higher octane fuel.
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I owned a 1980 Chevy Citation 4 cyl AT. Much is known about the rear brakes locking up with those with MT. There was a recall. On my automatic, however, the power brake assist would often fail resulting in a couple crashes for me. There was an investigation into this in 1983 but I can't find what the outcome was - what the actual culprit was.
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I have a 2009 Toyota Corolla with under 90,000 mi. Sometimes while driving, the car will refuse to accelerate and slow down to about 10 mi an hour. The only way to fix it, is to pull over and turn the car off and restart it. It immediately responds and it doesn't happen again. This lack of acceleration usually occurs in the first 5 mi of driving. I have a new battery...
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We have a 2009 Tiguan with 95K Kilometres on it. The first time this happened was about a year ago. W were driving on the highway (somewhat fast) coming around a curve and the dashboard lit up like a Christmas tree. TPM, Power Steering, EPS (anti skid), AFS (lighting) and I think one other. We turned around and called the dealership. They poked around for a while, flashed the firmware (just in case) but couldn't find a cause.
The problem did not recur until a couple of months ago, same trouble lights. (note we currently have winter tires on and so TPM isn't even hooked up). We had just had a fairly major service done (one of the scheduled ones) and they DID replace a bulb for an AFS fault a few days earlier.
We again returned to the dealership and they came to the conclusion that it's the battery, cause when they swapped it out, it cleared the trouble code (but I think this is a red herring as there is probably NVRAM that got cleared, so of course the trouble code went away). We balked a bit at the $200 they wanted for the replacement (as we were considering trading it in at that time), so the popped our battery back in and again it did not recur until yesterday.
It happens when cornering (hard? at moderate speed? Not sure), but I can almost make it happen on demand. Turning the car off for a while will usually clear the fault.
I've read a few threads and indeed a low battery can cause such issues, but I still kind of think it's a faulty sensor when so many (somewhat) unrelated faults going off. I was especially interested in this thread..steering-light but they seem to only have a power steering light come on, so I don't know. I threw a meter onto the battery just now and I suppose it could be a bit low with the meter showing 11.98 - 12.00 volts at the terminals.
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My issue I'm having - 2002 F350 7.3L has an 8 inch bds lift with 37/13.50 tires. I realize these tires are big but... while driving 100kms/hr or 60 miles per hour and I hit the gas the truck barely wants to move (without pulling a load). Thought maybe a turbo but I have no mechanical skills so here I am!
2nd issue, there's a bullydog chip in that truck when I bought it. he said he always ran it on extreme. I found it puffs way to much black when on extreme and on performance it seems a lot better so that's where I have it?.
3rd issue, the transmission gauge on the dash goes into red when climbing up hills ( I live in the rocky mountains so a lot!) but the bullydog chip says the tranny is only at its hottest 140C? I don't believe that's to hot but I do believe my truck is derating a little while the tranny gauge on the dash is in the red? is there any quick fixes out there for these issues.
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I was driving and my truck started have lack of power, could barely get going on hills, tons of blue smoke (smelled like diesel) real rough idle. I unplugged injectors and found #5 made no difference. I replaced it today and I can't get it to start. It'll get to 2000+ psi 48v ficm, low pressure oil registers, ficm says its in sync. It will crank and blow a lot of black like its half firing or something. It has even crank to, until it tries to fire. From what I've been reading could it be the ficm? That one circuit is fried?
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I have a 2003 with 150k miles. My 6.0 has black smoke and can barely crawl up a hill. Dealership is 30 days out for an appt. Air filter, oil change, alternator, and batteries are new. I removed the EGR valve and cleaned, but the valve seat is not perfect. I can see 20 to 30 mil gap around half of the seat. Is this ok or will that little gap cause this?
Hoses all look good. No alarm lights. I have no diagnostic tool but I can use a meter well. It did have an airbag light but I found the fuse missing and replaced it. The air filter alarm switch fell apart but I bypassed it till I get new part. No alarm lights now.
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While I'm cursing at highway speed everything is fine. But when u punch it it pass someone it's like I actually slow down, same from a red light. I've got a livewire programmer in it and this problem is somewhat new. It just seems to keep getting worse, I was going up a hill on the interstate this morning and at 2800 rpms I was actually slowing down. I'm not sure if the fuel pump is going out or if the transmission is slipping or what.
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Blown fuse causing a lack of power to the OBD port?
I just got my Kiwi2 BT OBD2 adapter and was hoping to start diagnosing my truck, but the adapter won't power on while connected to the truck.
I pulled and visually inspected fuse #12, I also verified power to the cigarette lighter plug and the accessory 12v power outlet.
The adapter powered up with no problem when I connected to a co-worker's Tacoma.
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Long story short, when going up hill or any incline for the matter it feels like it's struggling and lugging, blowing carbon everywhere. It's an automatic so I yeah can downshift sometimes but even turning overdrive off doesn't work in a lot situations. My EGTs are way too high and I'm not about to tow my project car to OKC unless I get this figured out. I live around Salt Lake City so towing can be hard up surrounding passes. Just cruising to park city at 70mph on I80 up a pretty good incline my EGTs were 1,000. Just driving around the city, some hills I see 700-800 when I'm going 35mph.
At stop lights I'm seeing 400 at idle. My probe on the pyro is going bad starting to flutter but even if I fix that I'm still having issues up hills. Boost is good, up-pipes don't appear to be leaking but fuel pressure is a little low @56 and I know it's not the fpr because I just messed with that yesterday, put a new poppet and oring in, I haven't checked the fuel pump yet or dropped the tank either. If it is in fact fuel pressure related, does it make sense for me to see smoke coming out, wouldn't that indicate too much fuel? I'm lost, it's driving unloaded like I'm pulling an anchor.
Regardless of which spring I put in the frx I get 56psi, even with the black one I may see 58psi but even with 58psi it was still lugging it's butt off up hills and making that terrible drone sound like F you down shift me now.
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I have a 2004 f350 with a 03 bullet proofed motor. The truck did not have any power and the turbo wouldn't support until I put a new vgt solenoid in and it ran great for about 3 miles... Stalled doing 65 kinda lacked power while accelerating but got up to speed quick. I pulled over and no start. It is running error code kam on pcm from disconnecting batteries but could this cause the stall and no start? Or should I be looking into icp sensor?
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Having some problems with an e-350 dying when in gear and rough idle. Truck starts up after it dies. Vehicle acts like it is starving for fuel. I have check fuel pressure after fuel pump and getting 55psi. High oil pressure pump with in normal ranges. Cleaned and checked egr and it was in the closed position. Fuel filters have been changed. Injector buzz test ok.
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I have a 2002 F350 4wd with the 7.3. I was driving the truck and all of a sudden it was running like crap. the engine light was on. after a minute or so the engine light goes off and the truck is running fine. then again starts running like crap. I am close to the house so I limp it home. runs like crap.... will barley climb small hills. engine light is on. get home turn it off... next day... starts up and runs great for 10 - 15 min. engine light comes back on... runs like crap.... my neighbor says "It's the crank position sensor" I replace it.... runs great for a month.... now it's doing the same thing......
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Picked up a second 7.3, just finished installing the new transmission last night, took it on a drive last night, everything was fine.
Went to bring it home last night- and found myself unable to maintain 50-55mph on back roads at 3500 rpm.
At first it almost seemed like I wasn't getting 3rd/4th gear, but upon taking it for a spin with torque pro, I am getting all gears, overdrive works, TC locks- all appears good there. Trans is getting really hot- but I believe I messed up the bypass lines or the bypass valve is not opening correctly- not the biggest concern.
I let the truck cool to more normal operating temps, took it for a spin, same story. I top out flooring it at about 55mph. No fault codes other than my faulty glow plug module. Everything I'm monitoring on torquepro looks fine with the exception of boost. When I floor my other 7.3, I get 15-20 psi, this, I get like.. 4. Unplugged MAP, nothing changed.
Turbo shot? Glogged pipes? These are my first initial thoughts. Let me know if I'm going in the right direction here, I can rebuild a gas motor in my sleep, but diesels are a newer animal to me, I've only had them about 2 months.
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My 2007 6.0 has a really rough (almost 'miss') during cold start up. After 5 seconds or so, it smooths back out and sounds normal. Until gauge reaches normal operating temp - there is a surge/lack of power during light acceleration. I also hear a frequent compressor coming on and running for a while which I am contributing to a possible vacuum leak. Maintenance is always done on time and I've already had a few costly repairs (both internally as well as externally) on the engine. I usually always wait for the glow-plug indicator to turn off before cranking the engine and let it idle for 5-10 minutes prior to driving it. Once the vehicle climbs to normal temp. everything seems to be fine but the compressor still comes back on every so often.IS it worth simply replacing the vacuum canister located behind the passenger side battery - or should I find someone to hook up a diagnostic unit first?
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This is a van (2000)used to transport people for leisure. It has 270k. When she is warmed up and rolling the power output is impressive for the vehicle size and weight. A half punch on the gas will push your shoulder blades into your seat.(I've never floored it)
It has a fairly consistent "lack of power issue". When she is just starting out for the first run. And about 3/4s of the time after she has been sitting at idle for an extended period(already warm). The lack of power is severe. If a hill of note is involved I have to turn around and go the other way. The lack of power normally is dealt with by pulling over and shutting the motor down. Usually, 2 mins or longer is the best. If I am in a hurry and don't go full 2 mins I get improved power but not really full. She will clear herself up then as we go."Refinding" her power always comes with a BIG load of smoke output. She does smoke pretty good when cold, of course. But normal driving not very bad. Smoke is of the whitish to light gray in color.
This has been a problem for the 3 years I have owned the car. She is cold blooded. When I plan to drive the car I plug in the block heater otherwise, I think I am using 2 gallons just to get her warmed up to idle. I just started using the diesel Kleen fuel additive. Got it at Napa. Haven't seen much improvement or change of note at this point.
Other than this problem and the wheel almost falling off once...it's been a perfect rig.The mechanic has not been able to come up with much. Although at the last oil change the computer code mentioned something about a temperature sensor? I have not yet followed up with him about that.
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I have a 2006 F250 6.0 Amarillo Edition. 133,000 When I bought the truck it was a theft recovery vehicle where the turbo, injectors, FICM and wiring harness were stolen. The company I bought it from replaced the injectors, wiring harness-new, and a used FICM, and turbo. Also has EGR delete and SCT tuner with basic tunes. I believe the SCT was put on to mask another problem. No dealer would spend that kind of money to sell a truck unless something was wrong. The truck would accelerate some with the tuner but shift the tires so hard it would bark them. I removed the tuner and went back to stock program.
The truck will barely move and takes a long time to accelerate under a load. In park and neutral it is fine. A friend has a ford diagnostic program on his computer and says the readings were all good except EBP was a little high. Removed exhaust and air intake to verify no restrictions. Turbo sounded like the vanes might be sticking so I replaced the turbo and VGT solenoid. Now truck feels like its trying to make more boost but not transferring power to the engine. Have blown the silicone hose off twice now during testing. Checked the EBP sensor and tube and only thing I see is a little carbon buildup inside the sensor. What else to check. I'm new when it comes to diesels.
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I have a 2003 Grand AM GT 3.4 with 166,000 miles, its hard to explain but will try. When your first taken off the car seems like its holding back, but then once you hit 3,000 rpm's with the gas pedal still pressed the same amount the car takes right off like it has a power band. Same thing regardless happens all the time under 3,000rpm.
Going down the highway at 70 and you start to go up a slight incline, you give it a little gas and you can feel the car having lack of power, then you press a bit more on the gas and it kicks down a gear and goes. Then back in the same situation once back under 3,000 rpm.
The car idles normal, check engine light will come on once in a while, but goes back off before i have a chance to see what code it is. I do notice when the check engine light comes on, you can feel the car lack power for just a second. I just replaced the o2 sensor today thinking it was that.
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So woke up this morning take kid to school, got about 1-2 miles from home and engine light came on and had to switch to tiptronic because seemed the engine was struggling to move the car and downshift and was able to drive somewhat fine. but at stop signs the car idle and shook slightly then taking off was a bear because it lacked power. I did notice my mpg was reading bout 10-15mpg less then normally.
I going back to bed because I work graveyard and will look at it more when I get up. but the oil looked good and wasn't any engine burning smell. the only odor i think i could smell was almost like coolant. What could be causing this?
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