Chevrolet :: 1994 - Crank It 5 Or 10 Times Randomly Before Starting
Sep 21, 2011
I own a 1994 Chevy Beauville. 12 passenger G-30 (1 ton) with 48k on the 305 V-8. Starting last year I have had problems starting it. At first it was just having to crank it 5 or 10 times. This was random, sometimes weeks would go by with no problems. But it became more frequent as the year wore on. Then twice, while driving, the motor shut off. The check engine light would come on and it would take the usual 5 to 10 cranks it start it. By the time I got to the local garage the light would be off and the set codes would show nothing likely to fix.
Continued this year so finally left it at shop for a week. Not once did it act up, so rolled the dice and installed a rebuilt distributor last week. Took it for a drive yesterday and after 15 miles of driving the motor shut off twice within a mile. Would not restart so had it towed back to garage. Several codes where set so they started looking. Spark tester showed no spark so they put on a test coil and it started right up. Switched back to my coil and, of course, it started right up. They checked for voltage drop but it's ok. Also checked for loose wires. Now when they start it, it runs for 15 seconds and stalls. Saw this happen multiple times.
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Recently my car has been giving me lots of problems starting. At first I thought it was a battery issue. All the lights on my dashboard would turn on but once I turn my key nothing happens . After trying to turn my car on all I would hear is one click . I get a new battery and the problem happened again . Thing is , it only happens sometimes and at the most inconvenient times at that.
I then thought it was a alternator problem but I ran the test to check that like taking off the the negative cable and even both after I started my car and the car stood running smoothly. Had someone else check the alternator and they said it was fine.
Today I had to turn the ignition switch about 5 times before the car even started . When it finally started , it sound like it was struggling to turn on. I have a 2001 eclipse gt.
What it can be?? Sometimes I'm scared to turn my car off . Someone told me it could be the cold weather , but I find it so hard to believe that it's just that. Especially when it happens at the most random times . When it wants to basically .
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I have a 94 chevy blazer. I purchased it not running. I replaced the fuel tank, fuel pump, fuel filter and plugs. The car ran fine for a couple of weeks. Then it started choking out after putting into drive. i tried to give it gas while shifting and it still died. I replaced the fuel regulator, dist. cap, fuel filter again, and the ECM. It now chokes out while in park. What am I missing?
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1994 Caprice Classic (350 cid LT1)... Engine cranks very slowly, almost doesn't start, sometimes starter disengages/re-engages. 1year ago mechanic checked batty, alternator and starter, all ok. I had starter replaced as it seemed the most likely cause. Eventually got better but now is worse again. Also notice a lot of movement on the dash voltmeter needle, sometimes high, sometimes low, turn signal moves the needle. Ive spent hundreds of dollars on troubleshooting and the new starter. What could be causing this?
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Recently my malibu would crank but not start. The consensus was fuel pump. I usually use Cole Muffler since they're close but I've had too many issues with them so I decided to take it to Sandone Tire. Upon further inspection, it turned out to be a wiring issue. I then received a call telling me that when the fuel pump was tested with their equipment, it had 0 electrical charge, and would not run the car for more than 3 seconds, essentially indicating that there was now a pump AND wiring issue, and the pump had to be replaced.
When the work was completed, about 2 days later, i hiked to Sandone to get my car, and was hit with an almost $900 bill. $300 fuel pump plus labor, $300 labor to run the testing equipment on the electrical system, gas fillup, tow, etc. I was told "Well, we fixed the problem of the car not running, as far as the other issues (small ongoing, and possibly linked electrical problems like lighter/ac, radio, locks, etc.. that may have led to the current problem) we'd have to bring it in and look at that"
I turned on the ignition to listen to the new fuel pump, and it would not stop priming. I read that that it can be 1 of 2 things, the fuel pump relay or the pcm not receiving the signal to turn it off after a few seconds. I tried to get back into the place, but he had locked up for the night. Ok, no big deal. It runs. We'll figure the rest out later.
It's now 1 day later and the vehicle is not starting again. Though this time it "tries" to start, with a little puff of combustion here and there, but will not start. I am going to ask if they put the right octane gas in, and tell them that I had a previous idle air control valve needing to be cleaned issue, but other than that I'm stuck on how to deal with this situation.
Also, if the fuel pump was running fine then "suddenly" crapped out, and the problem is electrical, how the hell does the fuel pump suddenly then need to be replaced because it won't run for more than 3 seconds?
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My 2004 Impala, 100+k miles, is occasionally not starting. The battery is fine, it's fairly new and we had it tested. When I crank it, I get all lights and electrics but it doesn't even make any crank noise or even try to start. I've read that the security system could cause this.
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I have a 1994 Bonneville with charging problems. When started the gage on the dash might go up to 14 and stay there or not charge at all. The car at times while driving will charge then not charge and then charge again it is all over the place. I have put on a new battery, Alt. and starter still the same thing. I have had the car at Battery Specialist and they said it's in the wiring. I have put a new harness on and still the same thing.
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I recently acquired a family car and have been experiencing some strange symptoms while driving. The car starts no matter how cold it was in Chicago this winter BUT after a few miles/10 minutes of driving the issue starts. As I approach or stop it begins to idol/rev up a few times and then die UNLESS I throw it into neutral. When I first start driving this is not an issue but without failure it starts to act up. Parking in the city = guaranteed to die at least twice in the process. This 1994 Topaz did sit unused or started most of the past 5 years.
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the headlights stopped working on my 94 shadow. I replaced the headlight switch (on the dash, not the multi switch on the steering column) and they worked again... until I was about 15 minutes into a 30 minute drive @ 2 AM. The lights went out (headlights, dash lights, everything) and came right back on. They flickered several more times and after I move the switched, stay on for the remainder of the drive. i figured there was just a bad spot in the switch (it seemed dependent on the dimmer position at first). It turns out that it seems to do this at the same point in the drive every night independent of the switch position, speed, engine revs, bumps. the only thing that seems to make a difference is the time before flickering is shorter when I use my brights. I should also point out that my speedo has always stopped working @ about the same time frame if I have the headlights & vent fan both on....
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My car keeps on shaking at times, sometimes it is perfect all day. If it is shaking and I come to a light it stops. I have been to several mechanics and they all say something different.
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My grandma has a '07 XLE 4cyl with around 65K on it.
Every once and awhile, completely intermittent, no consistency whatsoever it takes 4 seconds or so to get the car to actually start. Normally 1-2 seconds.
Was going to change plugs. See that you have to replace the whole pump/strainer assy. in the tank, no stand-alone filter.
No DTC's or any other lights on. Wondering about replacing the whole pump/strainer assy. will fix it or what the deal is. Can't order it online at Advance Auto parts, and called their store and the Denso one they show isn't even listed as available at the factory. Hope you don't need an OEM one, sure that's not cheap.
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There wasn't even a crank. Held the ignition for a couple of seconds and it starts. The next day I had the battery and the alternator checked, they were both good. Another couple days passed and it did not want to start again. Got it scanned no codes come up. I changed the ignition switch and still I have the same problem with no crank.
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I am very happy with my 2010 corolla, except for the annoying beeping. I live in a very quiet townhouse row and the cars are parked right in front of the houses. So, when I get up in the morning to get in the car, it beeps when I unlock it and on good weather days when the windows are open, there are at least 20 units that can hear it. It is very embarrassing. What is worse, randomly in the middle of the night, at 230 or 3am, it will beep five times quickly. My neighbors want to kill me! The engine light has been on for a few weeks because I am due for an oil change. Could it be related to that? And how do I turn this thing off?
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I have a 94 celica gt and at random times the power is much greater than normal. it seams to happen most when the engine is not fully warmed up or if I'm driving all day and it starts to cool down for the day. normally my 0 to 60 time is around 8 to 10 seconds and when this happens the time drops to around 6 seconds. I also have a 93 Toyota pick up that does the same thing and another 94 celica that doesn't do it.
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Last weekend, the car wouldn't start after sitting for a few hours. After about 20 minutes it finally started. It has started and ran fine up until today. Same thing, it was parked for a while and wouldn't start. Then it did start, ran horribly, then died when it was put into gear. Then it started and ran just fine, my friend moved the car, parked it and turned it off and of course it wouldn't start after that.
I've done a lot of work to this car myself, including entire tune up, fuel filter, cam AND crank sensors (notorious problems on these cars), ignition switch, oxygen sensors, several other things in the past year or so. My only hunch is that it might be the auto shut down relay, but I'm not with the car so I can't test that. We had fuel pressure at the test port the first time this happened, so I wasn't really thinking it could be a fuel pump issue, but with over 210,000 miles anything is possible. Also, it sometimes dies when the car comes to a stop with the A/C on...but this doesn't happen very often.
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1999 Rodeo LS 3.2L V6 M/T 287K miles
It has been starting "harder" a few times per day over the last week. Sometimes it starts right up normally, quick crank and no gas. Other times it requires much more cranking and then a few taps of the pedal to start.
It seems to be happening more frequently over the past few days but it will always start.
I replaced the fuel pressure regulator and the fuel filter (external) along with the air filter, and that seemed to do it the first day, but then the occasional hard starting returned.
I also swapped positions of the fuel pressure relay and the heater relay just to see if maybe the pump relay was sticking intermittently, which I didn't think was happening since I can hear the fuel pump running when I turn the key before cranking the engine.
No hesitation while driving/accelerating, runs fine once started. Starts hard at different times during the day.
I'm planning to change the spark plugs this coming weekend just because they're due, but I don't expect that to cure this since it runs great once started and I have no CEL.
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I have a 2003 Honda CRV, 100,000 miles. Recently when I tried to start the car, maybe one out of every 10 times, the starter will "growl" and then stop. After a few attempts, eventually it will be to make a turn or two and the car will start. The other 9 times the starter will crank right away and the car starts, no problem. My wife took the car to the dealer, they tested the battery, the alternator and the starter and said can't find anything wrong. Charged $60 and sent my wife home. I did a test myself for battery (parasitic) drain and can't find anything there neither. During the time when it was hard to crank, the battery measures 12.5 volts. Two days ago the starter was silent when I tried to start the car. Did not even "growl". After ten attempts or so, I finally got it to turn and the car started. During this event, the battery measured 12.5 V and the head light was bright. Works fine since then for these last two days. Is there anything I should try before replacing the starter motor?
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1994 BMW 740i... One morning, started my car - it coughed and sputtered and finally died. No check engine light. I tried to get codes from computer using the gas pedal/stomp method and got nothing. More attempts at starting eventually resulted in complete failure of ignition, ie. it will crank but not start. New fuel pump relay. Fuel pressure is good. Battery is new. I tested crank position sensor and got a steady .6 -.8 VAC. I tested the cam position sensor and got a measurement cycling between .6VAC and 0VAC. Could this be the culprit? or is it normal for cam sensor to go to zero during cranking?
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My 2002 4.8L Silverado recently started having this intermittent starting problem.
A few days ago I got in to start it, turned the key and nothing happened. Lights, radio and power locks all were working fine but engine would not crank or turn over. Turned the key off and on a few times and then the truck started fine.
It started fine for about 3 days. Then got in to start it the next day and this happened again. Turn the key and nothing. Lights, power locks, radio all working ok. Turned the key off and on multiple times but still nothing. So I cleaned the battery cable connections and fully charged the battery, even though it checked out ok. Tried it again and same thing was happening.
This time I looked at the ignition and starting relays under the hood in the electrical box. I swapped a few of them around, tried to start it each time and still nothing.
So I had the vehicle towed to the dealership to be checked. The next day the service man calls me to tell me when they went to check it, the truck is starting fine.
I am not sure if this is a starter problem, ignition switch problem or maybe the computer. The thing is, I can't drive it like this because it is no longer reliable.
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i just picked up an '07 Camry XLE and every time I start the car (push start button) the horn gives me 3 quick honks. Same happens with the remote start. How to turn that off? Besides just not starting the car
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Having a problem with the engine cranking over a few times before actually starting. This only happens after the car has been sitting over night. Thought maybe it was a bad battery, but it has been replaced in the last few months.
When I turn the key to start, it tries to fire for up to 3 seconds before actually starting. This only happens on the first start of the day, after that it starts quickly with no problems.
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