Chevrolet :: 1994 - Chevy S10 Leaking Oil
Feb 22, 2013
I have a 1994 Chevy S10 truck. I been having some problems with it.I was having transmission issues with it (I posted on that one before) , but now it has started leaking oil and I would like to know why. The color of the oil in the oil leak is dark brown and oil gauge is giving me odd readings. For example, when I start the truck the oil gauge says it is half full (40), but it warms up and I am in stop and go traffic it drops to 20. But, If I step on the gas the reading goes back to 40 again for a while and then drops back down again. I thinking about just getting a different truck because this one is becoming a pain to fix, but I would still like to know what could be wrong with it.
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The leak looked like it was coming from a heater hose. The individual I bought it from said he fixed it and it wasn't leaking the day I bought it. Upon driving it home...cranked the heat up and windows fogged, switched to defog with no luck. Added some coolant and still the same thing and leak began again.
It smells like antifreeze inside and fog has oily feeling when wiping it off the window. Got in on the lift and no luck seeing where it was leaking from, even with it running. My previous experience with bad heater cores is that it leaks on the inside and smells like coolant... is it leaking on the outside or is it something else?
It's NOT overheating or blowing any kind of smoke. Temp gauge read normal! It's a 4.3L, 1994 Caprice LS .....
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I am doing a side job and this thing has a rough idle. I put the scanner on it and pulled code 43 ESC and a ritch and lean code from the O2 sensors. I know the O2 codes are probably from running rough. It has been a while but could the knock sen be the problem or the ESC itself? I looked for the ESC by the throttle body but didn't see it. I remember what they look like but this is a late model 94 are they some where else?
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The issue I'm having is the A/C. When I got the truck the A/C was completely freezing. Recently however, the compressor was having issues not engaging and I fixed that by simply plugging the cord to the accumulator thing. . Now the compressor engages, but is not cooling really at all. It is an old truck and the compressor is a little worn from what I see maybe 2mm space when not engaged. I checked the levels of freon/coolant with a gauge and the amount is perfectly fine. Plus there seems to be no leaks.
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94 Chevy Caprice. LT1 turn over too long before it crank. The motor turn over like 3 or 4 seconds before it fire up. What's the problem?
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A week ago, driving home, the tech started to drop quickly to zero then recover, like the ignition was turned off and then back on. I was able to make it home. The car was due a tune up. I replaced the crank position sensor (OEM), replaced sparkplugs (Autolite Iridium), air filter, fuel filter, no luck. I ohmed the coil packs, secondary resistance showed good, replaced the ignition control module (aftermarket). After this, engine would stall after it was at temp, could restart, once put in gear it would stall, but I could go in reverse and drive home backwards.
Reinstalled original OEM ignition control module. Towed to GM Dealership, mechanic said fuel pump was bad, ignition wires needed replaced, one injector ohmed bad. I took car home, replaced fuel pump (OEM), ignition wires (OEM), no luck. Removed plenum, found pcv valve clogged, and hose kinked, replaced both, ohmed all 6 injectors, 5 injectors read 12.3 ohms, 1 injector was 11.6. Replaced all 6 injectors, (Napa), plenum gasket, still same problem.
GM dealership said computer said no data, they though perhaps ignition control module was bad, but I don't think so. I hooked up my Actron shorting plug, reads code 12 which means no faults, no other codes. I noticed EGR valve has a lot of carbon in the hole, thought about changing it, but I'm really not sure where to go now. The car is a 1994 Chevy Lumina with 230,000 miles, spent about $500 the last week doing brakes, and trying to fix this engine. Where to go from here.
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My dad's car, a 2002 Chevy Caviler, started leaking oil on the top of the engine just the other day and we're not sure what's wrong with it.
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Yesterday our 2002 Chevy Venture minivan died in the store's parking lot. It would not stay running when we started it and let off the gas. As long as we were pushing the gas pedal down, the van would run. As soon as you let off the gas, it died.
So my husband walked to the auto store and bought a new fuel filter. He then tried to replace it in the store parking lot. As soon as he took off the 'male hose' from the fuel filter, a lot of gasoline sprayed him in his face and of course he came out from under the van screaming and in pain. (Don't worry with kids we had over 8 bottles of water in the van and I flushed his face and eyes for over 10 min and he is fine now).
Anyway, in the process of flailing under the van when the gas hit his face, he jumbled up these little black and rainbow colored rings and lost a long rusty screw/bolt that screws the main round body of the fuel filter to the underneath of the car and holds it in place.
We searched and could not find the bolt. My husband jumbled up the small rubber rings and did not know what was from the old or new filter. He tried placing them on the new fuel filter but as soon as he turned on the car, not even the engine just turned the key to where you can play the radio... all this gas sprayed out from the new fuel filter. After many tries of re-arranging the little o rings he gave up and called a tow truck.
Today he called auto zone and they looked at a new fuel filter in it's box (same one my husband bought) and told my husband that there was only one small black o ring on the fuel filter. So he put one ring on his new fuel filter (on the male hose I think) but still the filter sprays gas as soon as he turns the key. He then went and bought new 'hose clips' and tried those. The fuel filter still sprayed gas.
So, what I am now trying to find out is what could possibly be causing the fuel filter to spray the gas (leak). My husband (in his words) is a welder, not a modern car mechanic and is getting really stressed over this.
1. Does he need new or different sized little rubber rings?
2. Could the missing bolt that screws the large body of the filter to the car be causing this gas leak?
3. I read he should turn off the gas some where and then replace the filter, could this cause a gad leak issue because he did not do this before replacing the fuel filter?
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The truck we have is a 1999 Chevy Suburban 1500, 2-Wheel Drive with a 350 vortec engine. We replaced the upper and lower intake manifold gaskets with no leaks for about a week and several hundred miles then it started leaking oil and then antifreeze after that.
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My 1995 chevy camaro has been overheating. at first i thought it was the thermostat sticking because there was no spewing or smoking so i changed the thermostat and my car was still over heating. I finally found out that the water pump was leaking fluids. so I changed out the water pump and filled it full of coolant. i turned on my car and within 10 minutes the gauge went up to 260 degrees and went down a little bit but stayed around 260, there was no spewing or leaking or smoking again. I was thinking that maybe now it could be the sensor but im not sure.
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I picked up this 2004 Chevy Venture for my daughter and it has a power steering fluid leak coming out of the power steering cooler line that runs along the frame in front. I know that the procedure to replace this line calls for disconnecting the intermediate shaft of the steering and lowering the subframe to gain access to the line connections on the rack. My question is, is it possible to replace that line without lowering the subframe? I ordered the new line and it's on its way. I wanna do the job right.
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A friend of mine has an 86 Chevy 1/2 ton, all origional. His problem is that the truck is "slow" going into reverse, but once there, feels "solid". I haven't personally looked at the truck, and am not sure what his concept of "slow" is. I understand there's probably not enough information to determine the cause, but it doesn't hurt to try.
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I have a 2002 chevy Trailblazer that when you put it into drive there is a vibration.It does not do this in park or neutral. I have checked the engine mounts and transmission mount, and they look good. The vehicle has a little over 118,000 miles on it and the engine runs and drives great except for this vibration that i do not know where it id coming from. What may be my problem?
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I have a 97 chevy blazer, that has no headlights. the daytime running lights, dash and marker lights all work but not the headlights or high beams?
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I own a 2001 Chevy s10 4.3 litter engine 2 wheel drive truck. Every time I accelerate I hear a hissing air sound like a vacuum cleaner from the belt/pulley areas. I've changed the alternator, a pulley, the tensioner, the air compressor, and the power steering pump is only 5,000 miles old. The sound has not gone away. I have no engine overheating or anti freeze leaks and the power steering works fine. When I first changed the power steering, the wheel was super hard to turn and it would sporadically get easier; now it us easy to turn. What could be causing this sound? I rather not change the water pump now.
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My trailblazer started with the spitting and sputtering (misfiring) last week. Over 100,000 miles on it, ya, in need of a tune up. So for obvious reasons new spark plugs seemed to be the logical choice. If it wasn't the problem, it can't hurt to change them. Truck's SES light did not come on, but truck was running pretty crappy, more when it was cold than hot, but definetely a loss of power. There is also a slight exhaust leak starting, where abouts right now I haven't pinpointed, deaf in one ear so it's hard to tell where it is coming from.
So I had my brother in law install the new spark plugs. We took the old ones out and 4 and 5 cylinder plugs had oil on them. Ah great, valve cover gasket and the gaskets the spark plugs sit on (don't ask me, not a mechanic lol) need to be changed. Started with just the plugs for now. Started truck up, still had a bit of vibration on idle, like it would from an exhaust leak, but still didn't seem right . But an even more noticable loss of power when driving, truck doesn't seem to want to get above forty.
Now my SES light is flashing almost consistently unless I'm stopped (idled). It almost feels like the cat is clogged. Did smell a heavier than normal gas smell when changing out the plugs. I know that the flashing SES almost certainly means a misfire. But why would it all of a sudden come on after changing the plugs? Tomorrow I am going to my friends garage who has the scanner tool (not just the one that reads codes) to see if it is a bad coil pack and to see if there is a specific cylinder that is misfiring.
But there is something about that exhaust leak that is leading me to believe it is the culprit of my problems. Leak came first, then the misfiring. Could the cat be clogged, which blew a hole in the exhaust and cause a misfire? And the new plugs just made the misfiring worse to cause the SES light to come on? Is there anything else I should check besides a faulty coil pack and compression check (even though I should have done that when I changed the plugs, but live and learn).
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Why does my 2000 chevy impala whistle when i accelerate? it also seems to shift hard.
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I have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
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I've got a 2001 Chevy Prizm (160,000 miles) Starts right up-after I drive for awhile and turn the engine off. It won't restart at times - I have to wait anywhere between 5 and 20 minutes till the engine will start again. The engine cranks - so it's not the starter or the battery.
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I got this truck from my step father, drove it from mississippi to washington (state) with minor problems. It's been sitting in my driveway for the last 6 months and I probably drive it once a week. I loaned it to my sister-in-law and she drove it for a couple of days with no problems. She went out one morning to take it and it wouldn't start, just cranked it for a few minutes and gave up. To make a long story even longer, I though it was fuel so I checked the pump, changed the filter, drained some fuel thinking water might have gotten in, ... to no success. I then started looking at electrical. Spark was getting to at least one plug. Pulled the distributor cap and cleaned it all up, replaced all the plug wires, and then tried starting it with the same results. (Oh, by the way, no check engine light so I assume no codes).
This goes on for a couple of weeks as it's in the driveway and I only pop the hood when it's not raining (we live just outside of Seattle). The other day I have the hood open, my wife decides to check on me since she thinks I'm talking to God and is wondering why I would use that kind of language when address a diety. I ask her to jump in and crank it while I pull a plug wire to see if I'm getting spark....again. Low and behold, the truck starts right up. I jump in to see if it's throwing a code and nothing. The thing is running great. I did notice that there is a ticking coming from the engine compartment and I realize the plug wire is still disconnected so I turn it off (with much hesitation) connect the wire, go back inside to start it and the thing won't start. I'm a private pilot and they say, if you're flying along and you do something and the engine stops, undo what you just did. So, I go back out, unplug the spark plug wire, and the thing starts right up. So, I start thinking, try another plug wire. I reconnect it, try another, and it won't start. So, what I figure is that it will only run when the second to the front cylinder plug wire on the drivers side on the engine is disconnected.
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can i adjust idle on car, seems to be running faster without using gas pedal.
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