I just put a sbc (small block chevy) in my 91 s10. i am now getting a vibration while im in park. You dont feel it until you push the gas. i just replaced the flexplate and it got a little better but it still vibrates.
View 1 RepliesSo, first, I need to tell that my car was just turned away from the only mechanic that is a "volvo mechanic" in the region because he said it grumbled and shook too much and it was too much of a liability.
There is only one thing I am concerned about, because it has been grumbling and shaking since I bought it five years ago and it hasn't gotten worse (so why worry!)
This car is a 1991 Volvo 740 sedan with 250,000 miles, a 4-cylinder gas engine and rear-wheel drive.
I have a siren sound coming from the front end, but only sometimes.
When I first start moving forward, I hear a "whooooooooOOOOOOOOOOOPPPPP!!!!" (sounds like a siren) for about 50-75 feet while I am going about 25-30 MPH. It only happens when I first start rolling forward when I first turn the car on from sitting for a while (3 or more hours). If I come to a stop, I don't hear it. If I park and run in somewhere and come back soon, I don't hear it.
I have been hearing a small "whoosh whoosh whoosh" sound coming from the front end that gets faster the faster I am traveling, and I don't know if that is related.
I have a 2001 b5.5 passat sedan i recently picked up for cheap. The car was on cut springs and blown struts. I just installed JOM blue Line coilovers on it to solve the suspension problem. While i was doing this i realized both the cv boots were torn and needed replacing. I replaced the axles. The passat is a 1.8t with tip tronic trans. After i did the axles when i put the car in drive and let it idle i get a fairly noticeable vibration through out the car. It does not happen while driving or while in neutral. This did not happen before i did the axles. It doesnt make much sense to me?
View 18 RepliesToyota truck rv 1991 sun rader ... Sometimes our little rv gets stuck in park. We rock it back and forth, move the wheel all around, check fuses and fluids, and sometimes after 20-90 minutes it will shift again. Also our speedometer and odometer don't work, not sure if they are related !!
View 1 RepliesLast week the shift got stuck in Park. I used the emergency release button to get into Drive. After this happened several times I took it to the mechanic who said the shift needed replacing. Got a new shift. The problem persists. I get stuck in Park about 1 in 6 times.
View 3 RepliesI have a 91 park ave it wont start all the lights come on the dash . If I run jumper to starter it turns wont stay running unless I pour gas in line. appears to not be getting power to starter and fuel system. What controls both of these?
View 14 Replies1991 Honda Accord DX A/T A/C. The engine is surging/searching at idle in park and in neutral from 1000 up to 2400. There are no engine fault codes.
I have cleaned the IAC, adjusted the TPS, Removed/Cleaned/Re-installed the TB, No MAP problem. I also removed the "black box" and checked the cold idle control diaphragm as best I could. I cannot find any specs on testing this. When I apply vacuum to it via the center port on the bottom it holds the vacuum, but takes approx 5 seconds for the diaphragm to "pop" to its ambient state after releasing vacuum.
I have sprayed all possible vacuum hoses along with all intake gaskets to test for vacuum leaks.
I have attached a diagram of the black smog box that is mounted on the firewall. The cold idle diaphragm is labeled as 2. I also have concerns about that electrical vacuum solenoid labeled 27.
I've got a 1991 Ford F150 Super Cab, 351 Windsor 5.8L V8, 2WD with 177000 miles on it. It rocks, I love this truck. But above 60 miles an hour I start to get a horrible vibration throughout the cab, mostly under the seat. It gets worse the faster I go to the point the whole cab vibrates. The challenge is that it only occurs when I'm on flat interstate, with just enough gas to maintain speed. If I accelerate, it goes away (or subsides quite a bit). If I let off the gas, it goes away completely. I had a transmission diagnosis from a local, reputable shop, and they said the tranny was fine. They said it was something in the engine, but I'm baffled that something in the engine could cause such a vibration all over the cab. Any thoughts on what this might be?
View 3 RepliesI have a '91 suburban (1/2 ton, 5.7 TBI) starts,idles and revs great, stumbles at most minimal throttle(parking lot speed) replaced cap, rotor, plugs, wires, filters. Ran injector cleaner thru it, swapped TBI with a known to be working unit...
View 5 RepliesMy 91 chevy 2500 has a fairly loud tapping sound under the passenger side dash, I used a mechanic's steth-a-scope & think i narrowed it down to left of the blower motor on the inside of the firewall. The clicking/tapping occurs every time the ignition key is turned on for about 10 clicks turn the key off & it repeats the 10 clicks again. Its consistent & very annoying.
View 2 RepliesI recently bought a 1991 Pontiac Firebird Formula 5.7L TPI with 124k. We was driving it home when noticed it was getting really hot (240-250). We pulled over at a gas station and gased it and let it cool off. We had been driving in the city at about 4 o clock for about 7 miles if that makes a difference. When it cooled we tried again. We got about another mile and the temperature would stay down so we pulled back over. We inspected it. The oil pressure showed really zero but we checked the dipstick and it looked okay. The engine sounded normal and the radiator is fairly new. The fan was blowing. We noticed that after it cooled off if you hit the gas the oil pressure would go up (similar to a tachometer...i thought that was weird). After if got cooled and we got on the open highway the temperature stayed normal and the car performed like it should. We think its the thermostat but are not sure.
View 6 Replies1991 chevy silverado 1500 4.3 ... Cruising at 55 down highway truck died for 2-3 seconds only to refire itself. After doing so for a few days it wouldn't start at all. Changed fuel pump,fuel filter and all spark plugs. Now runs fine until I shut it off briefly. Then it stalls on me on 3rd,4th and 5th gears. Bucks badly. Is it a fuel issue or something to do with starting it while it's warm. Also it runs good with the check light ON. Soon as it goes off it starts shutting off and refiring itself when I give it gas.
View 1 RepliesAt highway speeds above 60 mph on a smooth road, the vehicle runs fine. But if the road has any bumps at all, even small ones, it starts to vibrate very fast as long as there are bumps. The steering wheel almost becomes a blur. It's like it's going into oscillation.
The wheels have been balanced and rotated. The movement the steering wheel is not side to side, like I have experienced with imbalanced wheels.
The shocks look fine and I am told that they are OK by the tire dealer . I have never had this kind of a problem with bad shocks. The vibration is just too rapid.
Before I take the truck in for the mechanic to inspect it, I would like to know what the problem might be.
1991 Chevy 1500 pickup truck. The heater is ALWAYS on, no matter what I do. I suspect that some sort of mechanical controller or vent shut off device/air mixer is malfunctioning because I don't think the heat is actually coming from the heater core, I think it's just engine heat.
I pulled the fuse on the heater which turned off the blower and controls, but the heat is still coming out the vents, especially at highway speeds. So this leads me to believe that exterior air is pulling engine heat into the cab.
I don't know how I would even begin to fix this. I need a starting point. Where would I look for the vent or flap or whatever that mixes the cool air with the hot air? The AC hasn't worked since I bought the truck about 18 months ago.
My belt was making a screaming squeaky noise to wake up the dead. I used dish soap on it and it got quiet as long as I remember to bring the dish soap. My mechanic looked at my AC and told me I need a new compressor (he is a friend I trust) Now the AC comp turns but the belt seems to go on and off. And, the weird thing is-the AC feels great! Am I to expect any moment for it to just stop working? So, what to expect from my dead or dying compressor?
View 18 RepliesI have a 1991 Chevy Lumina and I believe this wire is the root of my problems. I
wasn't the one who unplugged it but it seems it was unplugged as an easy way to get around a problem. When unplugged the car runs but the performance is off, It doesn't feel like it has the same power as it does when it's plugged in and it also sounds different when in idle. When the wire is plugged in the car stalls while driving at random intervals between 1 and 10 minutes and needs to be jumped to start it back up. I will attach pictures of the wire and its location within the surrounding area.
I have a 2008 es350 with 106k miles and I've been trying to fix vibration issue for a few months now. The car vibrates while in park with and without the AC power on, but its worse with the AC on. The vibration was felt in the sterring wheel and wasnt that bad just enough to be annoying. So I researched and did a few thing such as spark plugs change, mass air flow cleaning, new air filter, a few bottles of fuel injection cleaner but nothing improved the vibrations. In fact I think it got worse. So after looking online I ran across a post about vibrations and motor mounts. This is the post I found. [URL] ....
"Most likely, one of the engine mounts are 'torqued'. You can try and neutralize the mounts. Loosen the through bolts of all mounts several (4-5) turns. Then start the car, and drive back and forth several feet (using quick taps on the gas and not just idling) over and over, and let it rest at idle a few seconds before turning off the engine. Now tighten all mounts being careful not to rock the motor, and don't pry or push anything to reach the bolts! (This is where swivels co*me in handy)"
I went ahead and did it on my es and wife's 2010 rx350. It took about 30-40 minutes but I took several breaks. Here are a few pic these are from the RX but the process is almost the same ones.
Top of engine bay on the passanger side this mount is easy youll need a 14 mm wrench. I noticed the bolts here where very tight when i loosened them but when re tightened the bolts it when in very easily.
This the drivers side you'll need a 19 mm wrench. Just turn the wheel all the way to the right to get access.
This one is right behind the radiator in the front middle of the engine. Its a17 mm
This is on the passenger side behind the wheel. It just like the one on the drivers side. Its a 19mm
This one I believe is only on the rx but I didn't look on the es. I could not get to the through bolt so i just loosen the two 17mm bolts.
Once all of the bolts were lose I turned on the car and moved/drove it 2-4 feet in drive several time in the drive way. Then I stepped on the brake pedal hard while in drive and gave some gas nothing crazy maybe up to 3k rpm and for second or 2. I did the same in reverse. After that I put it in drive and felt for vibrations if I still felt something i would repeat until the vibrations stopped. Once they stopped I didn't put the car in park, I turn off the car while in drive and engaged the emergency brake. At this point i re-torqued all the bolts without move anything. Now both the RX and ES and very smooth while stopped while in drive. This a free fix and it worked great.
Engine vibration? Its pretty significant and is always present doesn't matter if your in park or driving. What to check...
View 5 RepliesI have a 2000 Chevy Malibu (187K mi). Last year I was driving to work (24 mi one way) and noticed when I came to a stoplight the car seemed to be really hard to stop. When the light turned green and I let off the brake, it jumped forward pretty hard then continued on the way. Once I got to the parking lot and put it in to park, the RPM's went WAY up to around 3K the second I put it in park. It did this on and off for a week or so, one time getting so high in park I was scared to drive it. It was really sporadic. It quit for a day or two, then started again. I finally took it to a transmission shop...a national chain that is supposed to be good.
After 2 weeks they still didn't know what was wrong, charged me $500 for looking at it...didn't fix ANYTHING and it's been fine for almost a year. The only thing they charged me for was hooking it up to their computer and doing diagnostics. They said they were going to have someone test each wire one by one because it was showing a computer malfunction. However they did not actually do any work on the car. Just tests. I got it back and it worked fine for some reason. Now it's started to do it again. Rev'd really high, up to 2K when I put it in park last night..but today it's been fine. What could this be, and who do I trust?
I have a 2008 Chevy Impala. I've owned it for 14 months and put about 12,000 miles on it in that time. It's had basic servicing (rotations, oil, oil filter, cabin filter, etc. changes). It hasn't given me problems---but suddenly I have one and I'm not sure how major it is.
I made a drive from New York to Western Mass yesterday...couple hundred miles, but nothing huge. It drove fine all yesterday after I arrived...again, no problems. This morning, I went to start it...everything's okay. But then I went to shift it out of park...the button will not depress. I restarted a few times...no luck. I kept trying to depress the petal to shift it; I couldn't even shift it into neutral when not started. I am not sure what in the world is going on.
I've read numerous forums on this---it seems to be a common problem with these cars. What's not so clear is what to do with this. Responses range from---stick a screwdriver into some hole all the way to just go on and junk the car, it's useless. That's why I am coming here to get clearer guidance on resolving this problem, hopefully in an economical way.
My 1992 Chevy truck started surging or revving up when in park. It will tac to 1000 rpm's then go back down - up and down. It won't barely drive down the road. Didn't know if this is a fuel pump problem or something more serious. We've replace several parts that were described on the internet as "could be the problem", but nothing has worked.
View 2 Replies