Chevrolet :: 1986 Stall Out After Putting Into Gear / Intermittent Click Sound
Dec 24, 2012
I got a 1986 chevy g20 conversion van and I am having a problem with it once in a while it will stall out after putting it into gear it does not do this a lot but it does happen also smells like its running rich and until it warms up while the van is in park you can hear a intermittent click sound goes click click............................click...click no real rhythm just kinda does it then stops when in any gear besides park friend said it could be a small backfire. The engine is a 350 V8 4 barrel carbed.
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86 Diesel Suburban
Lately the voltage gauge sometimes starts to wander upwards toward the 18v red zone. When it does it wanders up and down a lot, but mostly well above the center 13v. Sometimes I left of the throttle a little and it goes back and stays at normal, and sometimes it doesn't and bounces up again as soon as I press the throttle. Doesn't happen on every drive, just sometimes.
I thought it unlikely this was a bad voltage regulator, since it's a pretty new alternator, 2 years tops. So I thought I'd see what other possible causes could be. (Why do they make the voltage regulator internal to the alternator now anyways, since they seem to go bad more often than the core? Can I just add an external regulator like the older trucks had?)
I've heard over-voltage can ironically sometimes be caused by a short, since the regulator dumps more voltage into the field coils because the main coils are showing they aren't delivering enough current (because it's all being soaked up by the short), resulting in an overall over voltage as the alternator tries to compensate for the voltage drop of the short.
How do I tell if this is the cause of the overvoltage or if it's something else instead? If it is a short, where could it be? I'm assuming it must be somewhere weird, because almost any normal place I could think of for a short would simply blow a fuse. Or is there such a thing as a partial short-- high enough resistance to not blow a fuse, but low enough to drive the alternator nuts?
Could it be related to overheating? I initially thought that was a possibility, because it began around the time the weather turned warm here, but on any given day it seems pretty random and not tied strongly to excessive speed or going up hills.
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I have a 2006 Hyundai Azera Limited, 3.8 with 5 speed automatic; car has 139K miles. I am noticing a small 'click' noise when putting the transmission in Drive or Reverse, and sometimes when accelerating from a dead stop. Car otherwise drives beautifully - the 'click' doesn't seem to affect driving it. The CV's don't make a clatter if accelerating at full wheel lock, which is usually the tell-tale for bad CV's. Is this something simple? My thoughts are:
1.) Somehow it's a CV joint. Grayson Hyundai said they're 'shot' but I think I would notice more than a brief click? They said a whole bunch of other things were wrong on their 'inspection', said the brakes were 'shot' because the rotors had rust on them... I don't trust that opinion.
2.) A motor mount or transmission mount. Seems more likely since would be most noticeable with torque.
3.) Something in the suspension. The car has new tie rod ends, but there may be something else worn/loose that I'm not aware of.
4.) Maybe I am just being too picky. The car drives awesome!
Maybe I'm overreacting, I just don't want some sort of catastrophic failure to occur.. The car still feels very robust, solid, and overall quite healthy..
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New sound today: a click that simultaneously happened when the parking light (a yellow light with a P) came on the dash as I applied my brakes. i had already put the car in park but not yet applied the electronic parking brake.
I found it odd as i had my hand on the gear selector and felt a slight tap. So while the car was still on and in park with no electronic parking brake applied, i let go of the brakes and the yellow P light went off. so i applied the brakes again, the click sound and tap feel from the gear selector and the yellow P light came back on the dash.
Never had that happen before. Applied the electronic parking brake and that little light came on as normal on its button. that's when i normally see the yellow P light up on the dash. I always use the electronic parking brake so i am not sure what page 205 in the manual is referring to when stated:
If the electronic parking brake has not been used for a while, an automatic system check will occasionally run while the vehicle is parked. this system check makes audible noises.
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I have a 1986 Honda Accord Hatchback Lxi, 180,000 miles, automatic, one owner, always excellent care (very recently new spark plugs, new air filter, new oil and filter, and several years ago new Pirelli tires). Lately, while driving, it intermittently loses power, like it's going to stall, but never does. I accelerate to recover. Years ago I used to hear about vapor lock. Last week I took it to a Honda dealer. They had no diagnostic machines for "old" cars and had no clue what was causing this. Most of the time, the car drives beautifully, but it's scary thinking it's going to quit and I'll be stranded on the side of the road.
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I love my '86 Mustang GT convertible. Currently at 106,000 miles and running strong. The problem is searching at idle. I have replaced every sensor that me and my mechanic can think of. New plugs and wires along with rotor and distributor cap. The engine will start searching, i.e. idling up and down, and at time stall. If I apply slight pressure and idle up to 1,000 RPM the searching stops. Hard to do sometimes as this is a stick.
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I recently purchased for my son a 1986 camaro 2.8 MFI v6 the car had been sitting for over a year in the previous owner's back yard because it would not start.I have had a mechanic do the following: heads redone, replace the distributor, replace the timing chain and gears, new wires, and emptied the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter.
I picked up the car and it ran for about two week no problem. Then it started diying occasionally when you let of the gas to come to a stop, so he replaced the fuel relay switch thinking that it may be going bad. The next day he had been driving it about 15 miles when it just died and would not restart. We shot a little starting fluid to see if we could get it to start and get it back home. it fired up and ran all the way home and died when turning into the driveway. and would not start again.
We replace the fuel regulator the car started right up and he took it for a test drive. The car ran about 4 miles, long enough to warm up and died again and would start. and again we were about to get it started with starting fluid to get it back home. pulled in the driveway and it dies. again it would not start, let it sit all night and the next morning still would not start finally got it to start with a squirt of starting fluid and moved it into the garage. shut if off and then tried to start it and it worked 5 times in a row.
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A friend of mine has an 86 Chevy 1/2 ton, all origional. His problem is that the truck is "slow" going into reverse, but once there, feels "solid". I haven't personally looked at the truck, and am not sure what his concept of "slow" is. I understand there's probably not enough information to determine the cause, but it doesn't hurt to try.
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I have 1986 Gold Corvette, which now has Antique Virginia Plates. I had a terrible Vibration at 65 - 75 MPH that would shake the car so bad I could not drive it more than 20 minutes and I could not tell if it was in the front or the back.
I had the following installed: Front and Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly (Timken), Front and Rear Brake Rotors, Front and Rear Rebuilt Calipers, Front and Rear Hawk/ Wellman HPS Brake Pads and four Stainless Steel Brake Hoses.
Now the vibration is about half-gone, but still shakes the GoldVette at 65 - 75 MPH, and I still cannot tell if it is in the front or the back.
A few years ago, I replaced the Rack-in-pinion and Tie Rod Ends. What do I replace next to eliminate the vibration so that I can drive it about 100 miles?
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It had no spark when I put a spark tester on, a few minutes later it started and runs fine. This has happened several months ago. Is their a way to test the spark control module.
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i got a 1986 chevy g20 conversion van for camping trips and the dash lights and tail lights don't work but the turn signal works and the brake lights work and the headlights work i put in a new fuse and they worked for about 5 minutes then quit working there did apper to be a little watter in one of the tail light bulbs if that works.
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I have a 1986 Chevrolet El Camino with a small V-8 engine. The vehicle has 150,000 miles on it. It starts and runs fine. It does not use oil. My problem is the oil pressure. After the car runs for a short time, the oil pressure starts dropping. It will drop all the way to 0 if I let it. I have had the sending unit replaced and it did not work.
I have had two mechanics look at it and they have not been able to solve the problem. One checked it with a mechanical gauge and confirmed the low pressure. He suggested a higher weight oil and an additive. The other mechanic's solution was to raise the idle speed. I have had this vehicle since it was new and always kept the oil changed and all other maintenance done. I would like to keep the vehicle and complete any repairs necessary.
My question: Is the engine repairable economically or does the engine need to be replaced and what is causing this problem.
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I have a 86 K5 Blazer. Six years ago put a new gm 350 a rebuilt trans. and had all the work performed for inspection. Truck was run once or twice over the years. This winter I got it on the road to push snow. I ran the blazer once for about 12 hours pushing snow, on the way home I thought I had a problem with the trans. Took the k5 out today 2/20 to pick up my kid at a neighbors house. Started out fine but at the large steep hill my k5 lost power. I pulled over to check the blazer over. It was idling fine but when I would rev the engine it was muffled. I drove up the rest of the hill (barely)and picked up my kid. On the way back I was quickly throttling the gas pedal which seemed to give little bursts of power. I am thinking that I have an airflow problem.
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Got Tiguan 2011 46000 miles on it. Just serviced intermittent no start and occasional stall after start.
Dealer replaced High pressure fuel pump and fuel pump control module. So far so good.
Seams like common issue.
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We have an 86 Chevy Silverado C10, all of the lights work on the truck except the headlights. We have replaced the switch, it has new head lamps. We hear that there is no fuse for these lights, that there is a circuit breaker but how to locate it or if it is really the issue. How to get the lights back on?
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What's going on with my '93 240. When I first go out to start my car in the morning, it starts up fine. After that, however, is when the trouble begins. If it's hot out, or if I've driven the car that day, there's a 50% I'll have trouble keeping the engine running. The engine will run rich, and chugs on startup, eventually stalling out after a few revolutions. During this time, the engine revs low, don't have a tac so I can't say how low, but definitely below idle.
If hold the accelerator to increase the RPM, the engine will run fine, but once I let off the gas, chances are it will stall out again. Eventually, after doing this a few times, something seems to catch the car as it begins to stall again, as in, just before the car is about to stall, the idle speed kicks up to normal. After that, the car runs fine.
I've had a code for the MAF for a long time. I tested the resistance across the meter, and it indicates the wire is still good. Even at that, I've replaced the MAF, but nothing has changed. Still have the same problem. What could be causing this?
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I purchased my 2013 SF 2.0 Turbo SE in August 2013. Up until then, I was a long time Toyota owner. I've very satisfied with the SF, except I've been having an intermittent issue since I bought the vehicle.
Maybe 3-4 times a month, out of the blue, when I making a left hand turn, there is a hesitation when I press the accelerator. The hesitation lasts for about a second or so, but when there's traffic coming at you while you're making the left turn, it can be quite scary and the second feels like forever!
The hesitation feels like there is absolutely no power and the engine will stall. It never does. I've had it back to the dealer/garage for diagnostics several times but they can't seem to find anything wrong. And they keep charging me for the diagnostics! This occurs in ECO mode and non-ECO mode.
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My 1996 Dodge Grand Caravan has developed a curious problem. It intermittently stalls, sometimes when slowing down, sometimes when going up an incline, sometimes on straightaways. Once stalled, it often won't start again until it has sat for 20-30 minutes. Then it starts right back up again and drives perfectly normally until the next time that it stalls-which can be days or hours. The problem is definitely getting worse--six times today. Warmer temperatures seem to exacerbate the problem. Again, the engine runs very smoothly up to the point of the stall. My mechanic was unable to replicate the problem and his diagnostics showed everything to be normal.
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I have a 06 Passat with a V6 with 80K on it. Recently I have been getting intermittent stalling at start up, only when the engine is warm(but once on a really hot day). The car will rev slightly and stall. After several attempts, it will start, and then it runs fine. VW service said no error codes and didn't offer much more.
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I have a 2002 ZX2 Escort Automatic and after driving it one morning, that night it wouldn't go after putting it in gear, all that happened was the rpm would go up than after a lil bit the car wouldn't move. I Noticed fluid all over the ground and didn't think nothing of it, anyway what to do?
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I've got a 2011 tiguan SEL 4motion and occasionally it feels like after starting the car and putting it in D (typically only when it's moved right into D) it seems to feel like the transmissions is repeatedly trying to get into gear. It doesn't seem to effect being able to drive off just seemed odd and kind of annoying. Or like the torque converter was locking and unlocking repeatedly.
I've also felt the same occasional jolt while sitting at a stop. I'll be bringing the car in for a 40k soon and will be having them check it out, but thought I'd see if this was a typical thing.
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