A friend of mine has an 86 Chevy 1/2 ton, all origional. His problem is that the truck is "slow" going into reverse, but once there, feels "solid". I haven't personally looked at the truck, and am not sure what his concept of "slow" is. I understand there's probably not enough information to determine the cause, but it doesn't hurt to try.
View 7 Replies1986 3.0 liter. I have a problem, concerning no power. The van starts and idle is slow and a bit rough. Something is not allowing the engine to spool up much past an idle, thus moving past 10 mph is not an option. When you try to rev it, it's like it's either starved of fuel or the ignition advance isn't working. As it is basically winter, with a temperature today of about 25F or less, it was suspected that I'd put in bad fuel (as in, containing water) and possibly the system is partially froze.
When I turn on the key, I can hear the fuel pump pressurize and then shut down, as it normally does. Gas line antifreeze was added but no change; we limped the vehicle at 15 miles or less for almost 2 hours. Likely if the fuel system had ice in it, it would've cleared out by then. As it happened on the road, I'm at the mercy of a shop of which/whom I do not know. Would it be advisable to instruct the mechanic to check for fuel at the "Schneider" or fuel pressure release value, located near the manifold?
1986 S10 blazer automatic transmission won't go into reverse OR neutral! It goes fwd in both reverse and neutral. It goes into park just fine. The fluid is full and not burnt. It will drive forward when in reverse and in neutral. I turned the engine off and checked neutral, it was not in gear but tried to go forward as soon as I started the engine.
View 16 RepliesI recently purchased for my son a 1986 camaro 2.8 MFI v6 the car had been sitting for over a year in the previous owner's back yard because it would not start.I have had a mechanic do the following: heads redone, replace the distributor, replace the timing chain and gears, new wires, and emptied the fuel tank and replaced the fuel filter.
I picked up the car and it ran for about two week no problem. Then it started diying occasionally when you let of the gas to come to a stop, so he replaced the fuel relay switch thinking that it may be going bad. The next day he had been driving it about 15 miles when it just died and would not restart. We shot a little starting fluid to see if we could get it to start and get it back home. it fired up and ran all the way home and died when turning into the driveway. and would not start again.
We replace the fuel regulator the car started right up and he took it for a test drive. The car ran about 4 miles, long enough to warm up and died again and would start. and again we were about to get it started with starting fluid to get it back home. pulled in the driveway and it dies. again it would not start, let it sit all night and the next morning still would not start finally got it to start with a squirt of starting fluid and moved it into the garage. shut if off and then tried to start it and it worked 5 times in a row.
I have 1986 Gold Corvette, which now has Antique Virginia Plates. I had a terrible Vibration at 65 - 75 MPH that would shake the car so bad I could not drive it more than 20 minutes and I could not tell if it was in the front or the back.
I had the following installed: Front and Rear Wheel Bearing/Hub Assembly (Timken), Front and Rear Brake Rotors, Front and Rear Rebuilt Calipers, Front and Rear Hawk/ Wellman HPS Brake Pads and four Stainless Steel Brake Hoses.
Now the vibration is about half-gone, but still shakes the GoldVette at 65 - 75 MPH, and I still cannot tell if it is in the front or the back.
A few years ago, I replaced the Rack-in-pinion and Tie Rod Ends. What do I replace next to eliminate the vibration so that I can drive it about 100 miles?
i got a 1986 chevy g20 conversion van for camping trips and the dash lights and tail lights don't work but the turn signal works and the brake lights work and the headlights work i put in a new fuse and they worked for about 5 minutes then quit working there did apper to be a little watter in one of the tail light bulbs if that works.
View 2 Replies86 Diesel Suburban
Lately the voltage gauge sometimes starts to wander upwards toward the 18v red zone. When it does it wanders up and down a lot, but mostly well above the center 13v. Sometimes I left of the throttle a little and it goes back and stays at normal, and sometimes it doesn't and bounces up again as soon as I press the throttle. Doesn't happen on every drive, just sometimes.
I thought it unlikely this was a bad voltage regulator, since it's a pretty new alternator, 2 years tops. So I thought I'd see what other possible causes could be. (Why do they make the voltage regulator internal to the alternator now anyways, since they seem to go bad more often than the core? Can I just add an external regulator like the older trucks had?)
I've heard over-voltage can ironically sometimes be caused by a short, since the regulator dumps more voltage into the field coils because the main coils are showing they aren't delivering enough current (because it's all being soaked up by the short), resulting in an overall over voltage as the alternator tries to compensate for the voltage drop of the short.
How do I tell if this is the cause of the overvoltage or if it's something else instead? If it is a short, where could it be? I'm assuming it must be somewhere weird, because almost any normal place I could think of for a short would simply blow a fuse. Or is there such a thing as a partial short-- high enough resistance to not blow a fuse, but low enough to drive the alternator nuts?
Could it be related to overheating? I initially thought that was a possibility, because it began around the time the weather turned warm here, but on any given day it seems pretty random and not tied strongly to excessive speed or going up hills.
I have a 1986 Chevrolet El Camino with a small V-8 engine. The vehicle has 150,000 miles on it. It starts and runs fine. It does not use oil. My problem is the oil pressure. After the car runs for a short time, the oil pressure starts dropping. It will drop all the way to 0 if I let it. I have had the sending unit replaced and it did not work.
I have had two mechanics look at it and they have not been able to solve the problem. One checked it with a mechanical gauge and confirmed the low pressure. He suggested a higher weight oil and an additive. The other mechanic's solution was to raise the idle speed. I have had this vehicle since it was new and always kept the oil changed and all other maintenance done. I would like to keep the vehicle and complete any repairs necessary.
My question: Is the engine repairable economically or does the engine need to be replaced and what is causing this problem.
I have a 86 K5 Blazer. Six years ago put a new gm 350 a rebuilt trans. and had all the work performed for inspection. Truck was run once or twice over the years. This winter I got it on the road to push snow. I ran the blazer once for about 12 hours pushing snow, on the way home I thought I had a problem with the trans. Took the k5 out today 2/20 to pick up my kid at a neighbors house. Started out fine but at the large steep hill my k5 lost power. I pulled over to check the blazer over. It was idling fine but when I would rev the engine it was muffled. I drove up the rest of the hill (barely)and picked up my kid. On the way back I was quickly throttling the gas pedal which seemed to give little bursts of power. I am thinking that I have an airflow problem.
View 11 RepliesWe have an 86 Chevy Silverado C10, all of the lights work on the truck except the headlights. We have replaced the switch, it has new head lamps. We hear that there is no fuse for these lights, that there is a circuit breaker but how to locate it or if it is really the issue. How to get the lights back on?
View 2 RepliesI have a problem with my 1998 Chevrolet Blazer. It won't go in reverse, but will go into gear going forward. I don't know whats wrong or what the cause is.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2011 Chevy Malibu, with a little over 100k miles on it. A couple weeks ago it started acting a little funny when I would shift into reverse after starting it after sitting for a while. I thought it might have been due to temperature as it didn't do it after the car had warmed up or when it was warmer out.
Yesterday it started acting up really bad, will not shift out of first gear, and will not shift into reverse, and the check engine light came on. I was able to get it up to O'Reilly's to get the codes. It came back with 2 separate codes.
P0700 - Transmission Control Module (TCM) Requested MIL IlluminationP0776 - Clutch Pressure Control (PC) Solenoid - Stuck Off
The guy there seemed to think that the second code was probably caused by the first one, and most likely the TCM needs replaced. It makes sense to me, but before I head down this path I want to get some input, as it is a little over $300 for the part.
I got a 1986 chevy g20 conversion van and I am having a problem with it once in a while it will stall out after putting it into gear it does not do this a lot but it does happen also smells like its running rich and until it warms up while the van is in park you can hear a intermittent click sound goes click click............................click...click no real rhythm just kinda does it then stops when in any gear besides park friend said it could be a small backfire. The engine is a 350 V8 4 barrel carbed.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1986 Monte Carlo SS with 305 HO engine. Recently when driving along suddenly I have hot air blowing out of the vents, then in a few minutes it goes back to the cool air. This happens whether it is set to vent or air conditioner. How can I fix it??
View 8 RepliesI have a 1994 Chevy S10 truck. I been having some problems with it.I was having transmission issues with it (I posted on that one before) , but now it has started leaking oil and I would like to know why. The color of the oil in the oil leak is dark brown and oil gauge is giving me odd readings. For example, when I start the truck the oil gauge says it is half full (40), but it warms up and I am in stop and go traffic it drops to 20. But, If I step on the gas the reading goes back to 40 again for a while and then drops back down again. I thinking about just getting a different truck because this one is becoming a pain to fix, but I would still like to know what could be wrong with it.
View 3 RepliesI am having an issue with my transmission. Mine will not accelerate when in reverse, at all. When I take off in overdrive, the car revs up really high until about 30mph and then finally shifts and seems to drive normal at about 45-65mph,after that the car revs really high up to about 70mph (then i slow down). No problems with gear 1 and 2.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 chevy Trailblazer that when you put it into drive there is a vibration.It does not do this in park or neutral. I have checked the engine mounts and transmission mount, and they look good. The vehicle has a little over 118,000 miles on it and the engine runs and drives great except for this vibration that i do not know where it id coming from. What may be my problem?
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 chevy blazer, that has no headlights. the daytime running lights, dash and marker lights all work but not the headlights or high beams?
View 4 RepliesI own a 2001 Chevy s10 4.3 litter engine 2 wheel drive truck. Every time I accelerate I hear a hissing air sound like a vacuum cleaner from the belt/pulley areas. I've changed the alternator, a pulley, the tensioner, the air compressor, and the power steering pump is only 5,000 miles old. The sound has not gone away. I have no engine overheating or anti freeze leaks and the power steering works fine. When I first changed the power steering, the wheel was super hard to turn and it would sporadically get easier; now it us easy to turn. What could be causing this sound? I rather not change the water pump now.
View 2 RepliesMy trailblazer started with the spitting and sputtering (misfiring) last week. Over 100,000 miles on it, ya, in need of a tune up. So for obvious reasons new spark plugs seemed to be the logical choice. If it wasn't the problem, it can't hurt to change them. Truck's SES light did not come on, but truck was running pretty crappy, more when it was cold than hot, but definetely a loss of power. There is also a slight exhaust leak starting, where abouts right now I haven't pinpointed, deaf in one ear so it's hard to tell where it is coming from.
So I had my brother in law install the new spark plugs. We took the old ones out and 4 and 5 cylinder plugs had oil on them. Ah great, valve cover gasket and the gaskets the spark plugs sit on (don't ask me, not a mechanic lol) need to be changed. Started with just the plugs for now. Started truck up, still had a bit of vibration on idle, like it would from an exhaust leak, but still didn't seem right . But an even more noticable loss of power when driving, truck doesn't seem to want to get above forty.
Now my SES light is flashing almost consistently unless I'm stopped (idled). It almost feels like the cat is clogged. Did smell a heavier than normal gas smell when changing out the plugs. I know that the flashing SES almost certainly means a misfire. But why would it all of a sudden come on after changing the plugs? Tomorrow I am going to my friends garage who has the scanner tool (not just the one that reads codes) to see if it is a bad coil pack and to see if there is a specific cylinder that is misfiring.
But there is something about that exhaust leak that is leading me to believe it is the culprit of my problems. Leak came first, then the misfiring. Could the cat be clogged, which blew a hole in the exhaust and cause a misfire? And the new plugs just made the misfiring worse to cause the SES light to come on? Is there anything else I should check besides a faulty coil pack and compression check (even though I should have done that when I changed the plugs, but live and learn).
Why does my 2000 chevy impala whistle when i accelerate? it also seems to shift hard.
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