I have a 1981 ElCamino truck that vibrates at 60mph and above, I have put new tires on it had them balanced twice, had the drive shaft balanced, axles have been checked and the front end has been worked on also, but the vibrations just will not go away. What this can be caused from?
View 18 Replies1981 Corvette rebuilt/restored. 35+ mph. steering wheel shakes/vibrates. Higher speed, depress clutch, smooth ride. Taken to mechanic recently, test driven to acknowledge, lift done twice, no clue.
View 5 RepliesI have an '01 Blazer that's had a strange vibration for some time now. Here are the particulars:
It's a low frequency rumbling It happens only between 45 and 60 mph It tends to come and go It usually starts after about 5 minutes of driving first thing in the day It generally goes away after awhile and may not happen the rest of the day It happens only when I'm accelerating or maintaining speed on an incline It happens when it's hot, cold, wet or dry
What I've done lately: replaced all the brake pads replaced one rear rotor and caliper slide pins (one pin was frozen and the rotor was badly worn Checked the U-joints, which are sound
Why does my car front end shake when I go pass 65mph steering vibrates & everything inside does to then you can feel that right or left tire shaking not to sure....
2005 chevy malibu classic....
My car starts get 62psi out of fuel pump but will not rev past 4000rpm. What might be wrong.
View 5 RepliesI have an 81Volvo 240 sedan with a little more than 200k miles on it. I've had this issue with the ignition for several years now. Sometimes when I turn off the car with the key as normal, the car keeps running as if nothing happened. I've tried several fixes:1. moving the steering wheel violently and put the car out of park2. replaced the ignition switch.3. replaced the ignition switch relay.
Now the only way to turn the car off when it does this is to pull the relay under the dash. When I reconnect it, it works fine. But, I'd rather not have to pull the relay every time I want to turn off the car!
My 1981 Toyota Corolla wagon began to intermittently fail to start when warmed up about five years ago, and by fail to start I mean all lights come on but zero crank and no clicking sounds either. The amount of time I must wait for it to cool down and start again has varied between 20 minutes and today's record, 3 hours. This problem is common with older Toyotas and usually means the starter motor needs to be replaced, believe me I've looked into it, but here's the puzzler. I've replaced the starter motor two times and it has failed to solve the problem. I've replaced the ignition switch four times, same thing. I replaced the battery thinking maybe my old battery was losing mojo, but tears came to my eyes when it happened again.
I've studied how a hot starter head close to the exhaust manifold sees it's resistance go up, that the initial crank requires big voltage throughput. But an aluminum heat shield is built in and wrapping the starter in a heat blocking blanket is not physically possible with my configuration. What I haven't looked into yet is the clutch safety switch. I did receive the following bullet from a previous CarTalk query which read: "If a manual transmission, the clutch safety switch must be working and have low enough "on" resistance. Likewise with an automatic transmission, the neutral safety switch." I would love more detail about the clutch safety switch. I can add this interesting caveat to today's 3 hour record wait. I've gotten good a bump starting the car by myself. Today I bump started it in rolling reverse, re-parked it, and tried restarting again. Started right up when it wouldn't start moments before.
I have a 1981 240 Wagon with 182K miles on it. When I reach 45-55 MPH on the highway the car starts to hum and roar. It is not horrible by any means but it has gotten louder over time and now the car kind of vibrates. At 60mph it stops and quiets down. Now I am unsure if I have a turbo or not and I feel like that could just be the turbo mechanism kicking in but I am not sure.
View 4 RepliesThis car's windows are not working. 3 of the window motors make a running sound when the levers are pressed, but the window doesn't move. Is this an expensive item to fix? Do you think the window is just off the track? Where is the best place to take it to be fixed?
View 4 RepliesI got this 1981 ford fairmont wagon for free. From this elderly lady it was her husband.he bought used in 1983 it had 73,000 on it Iook like it been kept in garage real clean looking the mileage now on it is 34,154. I am guessing she has over 200,000 on her.The problem I am having is the fuel gauge won't move.is there a fuse for it or do you think the sender is bad. I can not find a sender any where...
View 2 Replies1981 Mercedes 380 SL. Experienced a problem this week, car started but immediately died and would not restart. 36 hours later tried again with same result. Only 89K miles, fuel pump replaced a year ago.
View 4 RepliesMy 1981 Toyota Corolla wagon is beloved but developed a problem wherein when it gets warmed up and it is turned off, it may not start again until it cools down. When I say start I mean no crank, the starter will not turn over. All other electrical functions continue to work. The required wait is usually about 20 minutes and it will start again. I replaced the ignition switch in my steering column about four times (why four is another story) and the problem persisted.
Web research indicates the starter motor should be replaced, that because the starter is close to the exhaust manifold it can get quite hot and the phenomenon is called 'heat soak' where the electrical conductivity within the starter becomes overwhelmed by the heat, raising the resistance to the point where it will not conduct adequately. But I just replaced the starter motor and the problem is still the same! I am quite perplexed. I was so sure that would solve it.
1981 Datsun 280ZX 5spd manual L28 IL6 SOC. maintenance history unknown. Today after a short drive and a bath the engine started looping after 2000 rpm. The car idles fine while sitting but as soon as you push the gas the engine revs to 2k and then decelerates then back up to 2k then back down.The car does this with no hesitation until you take you foot off the gas then idles normal again. Could this be a sensor issue? If so which one? The car didn't start the problem until i bathed the engine area.
View 1 Replies1981 f100 2wd 4.9 L6 c6 9" rear w/ front discs and rear drums. went through and fixed all leaks after I got it running. Then I got to steering and suspension. Replaced all tie rods. only thing i reused were adjusting sleeves. Taped off thread protrusion on oem steering parts so i could measure and get the new rod ends in the ballpark. Did a simple shadetree toe adjustment so i could drive it to get it aligned. I should mention i already replaced front rotors and bearings as well. Mic'd the spindles so they're in spec.
I am however running used tires but they balanced out pretty well. all torque application was strictly adhered to by the maintenance manual. made sure tire pressures were up to snuff and greased everything that could be lubed to include kingpins. the kingpins are the only thing i have not rebuilt....but i did check the radial and axial play....nothing out of spec. So I took the truck in for alignment. picked it up and it pulls to the right just as bad as it did when i drove it to the shop. the tech tried to tell me it was just a bad tire and that i needed a new one....of course i knew that was wrong.
Swapped tires from side to side, and magically the truck still pulled to the right. So I've narrowed it down to either the steering box maybe, or just a shade tree alignment tech that doesn't know his fourth point of contact from his elbow. It does not have a steering stabilizer installed, but i would think that shouldn't matter?
I put a used AOD in my 1981 F 100. The throttle valve seems to be binding up even with the linkage disconnected. There is no pressure on the TV port. The truck will move in all gear positions, but it will not shift.
View 3 RepliesThree position switch (off/slow/fast) not working. Bought a new switch and have same problem. The SWITCH OFF position gives very slow wiper movement. The SWITCH SLOW and SWITCH FAST position work OK. The only way I can turn off wipers is to high-center the switch between positions. But it won't stay high-centered very long. Is this a wiper motor problem?
View 5 RepliesI have a 1981 Toyota pickup. when i start her. she starts fine, but sometimes she will idle fine, and then suddenly refuse to. it seems to be random. i can keep her running if i keep my foot on the gas just a little, to keep her rpm's up. but have to put her into N and keep my right foot on the gas and my left on the brake to stop her when she refuses to idle. when she does this on the freeway, it just sputters and runs rough, but as long as i have the gas on, she keeps going.
I don't know what it is that regulates the idle to keep her going when my foot isn't on the gas. also her serpentine belt is slipping. the one attached to the alternator, i can see her charge voltage dropping when she squeals her belt. that i know how to fix, but i'm wondering if it's that, that is the issue? i was told that, but i don't think her serpentine belt has anything to do with her idling. i was told how to raise her idle on the throttle cable and the Idle screw, but is there something else that regulates her idling?
My 1981 302 dosent like this 4160 apparently. When i start my truck it shudders on first seconds of startup and whenever i touch the throttle. It runs and operates, but im getting concerned.
View 1 RepliesToyota Cressida 1981 5ME sedan. Problems with drivers kick panel fuse, breaker block due to water damage and ?. Long story! Some things ( windows, heater etc) work sometimes for months then dont work. Turn signals were first blew two fuses then quit. Flashers fine. Horn stopped then caught up at next left turn. etc. etc. Have replaced, tested, cleaned and am still doing so. At one time every warning light was lit. now only battery light is on, battery is charging. Windows and heater quit, they worked two weeks ago. and Haynes book and owners manual are incomplete and confusing.No Chiltons for this car. Had power steering pump replaced last year, mechanic moved, knocking noise began again in 2 months got worse. Just last week figured out that the nut on the power steering pump pulley was gone.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1981 F100, lately when I've been driving at night I notice my headlights, dash lights, and charging light will flicker at the same time, and even sometimes my headlights will flash on and off by themselves.
View 2 RepliesWe have a 2007 Camry SE, 4 cyl with about 85k miles on it. Recently we noticed the gas pedal vibrates when we take off from a stop. The vibration lasts only at slow speeds. It literally feels like someone strapped on a cell phone in vibrate mode on the gas pedal. Planning on taking it to the dealer soon.
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