I have a 56 Belair with a small block 327 in it. Runs hot when idling or slow speed. Original radiator with brass cowling on top. Can the radiator be cored or cleaned out? Is there a fluid that will work? How about a special oil?
View 7 RepliesI have a 1956 Chevy Bel-Air that has been in my family since purchased new. It stalls when I put it in gear (reverse, to be precise). Any thoughts as to why? And, what can I do to repair it?
View 13 RepliesI am getting a light clicking from my rear Axel when coasting at a slow speed. It could be clicking at any speed but my car is to loud to hear it going down the road. I don't have more details than this. What to look for ?
View 15 RepliesMy wife's car is a 2006 2.0T Passat. It has been very slow to blow cool air on starting. Once you are moving at highway speeds it cools fine, but then blows hot air when you slow or come to a stop.
I have taken the car to a mechanic who purged and refilled the coolant. This did not fix the problem. Upon checking with the mechanic, we noticed that both the primary and aux. cooling fans start and stop at the same time, and only would come on when I would rev the engine up some (around 2000 rpm).
I have talked with this mechanic and one more. Both are certified master mechanics, but neither specializes in VW. They believe it may be the high pressure side switch or the compressor itself.
Our mechanic is stumped. The Frontier runs hot when idling. The clutch fan and thermostat have been replaced. The radiator has been flushed. When you are driving or you turn off the A/C, the temp goes down. The next suggestion is to replace the radiator, but I'm already hundreds into this so I hate to do anything else unless I'm pretty sure it is going to fix it.
We do know that the catalytic converter needs replacing. Could this have anything to do with it?
I have a 87 gmc sierra with a 305 tbi motor, i drove it and parked it for a year and it was running fine, i went to go start it again it fired up and high idles for about 5 seconds then dies, I have put fresh gas in it and ran some seafoam threw it, changed fuel filter, rebuilt the tbi system with all new gaskets and seals, injectors seem to work as they should, i have replaced the distributor,and the cap and rotor, new plugs, IAC, coolant temp sensor, map sensor, egr valve, egr solenoid,, new oil and filter, and checked all vacuum lines, grounds,checked all the sensors with the ohmn meter and all getting the correct power, its pretty close on timing, i just cant seem to figure it out, it will idle high and sound good then fall on its face, the only way to keep it running is you have to pump the peddle, it wont rev up at all it just sputters and dies.
View 1 RepliesI have a 1999 ford escort 4 door sedan, when the car is cold I can get it to start and it will run just fine, after it starts to warm up, it starts to make a misfire/ sputtering noise when it is starting to die when idling. when I am driving it, there are no signs it is going to die.
I took it to the ford dealership today and they said that I need to replace the fuel pump, and the relay control module.
I just replaced the fuel pump a week ago because I thought that was the problem. So I am thinking it is the Relay Control Module- only problem is I don't know where it is located, where it is?
Coming home from a road trip we stopped for gas not 5 minutes later the check engine light started flashing. The car was fine as long as you were puching on the gas but as soon as you slowed to a stop it would either die or shudder until I gave it some more gas. Being stupid I figured that I could probably get it home since It was only 25 miles of freeway driving and I wouldn't have to stop until I got near my home. I took it to a mechanic the next day and they said that it was my timing belt.
The next day I get a call from them telling me my timing belt is fine but they discovered that a valve adjuster shim is missing on cylinder 6 and the adjuster cup is jammed down as well as a crack in the locating pin hole so that the pin is moving causing the cam to shift in relation to the cam gear. They suggested I rebuild or replace the cylinder heads and may need to replace the engine. What this could be?
We have two 2000 Echos with 125,000 and 130,000 miles on them. We took my husband's Echo into the shop because it died when idling, and then it started running rough and stumbling. Also needed an alignment. They fixed it by replacing the idle sensor, the mass air flow sensor, and worked on the valve train. They said they couldn't do the alignment because the control arms needed to be replaced due to the bushings. A week before his car went into the shop, my car started running rough and stumbling. So I took it in when I picked his car up. Same diagnosis except for the idle. Is it reasonable for BOTH to need all this work at the same approx. mileage?
View 5 RepliesI have just had a 1956 Buick steering unit rebuilt to correct a seal leak. After installation,when the car is started, the steering wheel turns itself to the left. This occurs without moving the car. It seems that this has something to do with the power steering system, which worked fine before we had the steering unit rebuilt. How to solve this problem?
View 2 RepliesI have a Toyota echo 2001 , manual 4 doors, My question is about when I climb a normal road the engine lose force the I reduced the speed form 4th to 2nd in order to continue my way, It is like the car is towing a truck, It s turns very slow. My question IT IS NORMAL?
The ECU only shows the 0420 Code And I know that It is about the cat because I replaced it for a generic. And the O2 secondary sensor voltage is like a wave.
1998 Jeep Cherokee sport ... My mechanic tells me that my #1 fuel injector is always spraying and that that is why the jeep runs rough. This is after he already told me that my injectors were clogged and needed to be replaced (which he did). When the car is idling for a while, the exhaust really begins to smell like gas, so this seems to make some sense to me, unlike his previous diagnosis. But now he is telling me that I need to replace the computer to fix this problem.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1989 Toyota Celica ST and I am having a few concerns with my engine. The engine has less than 50k miles on it, and I took it to the mechanics a week ago and was told nothing further than what I had done (tune up, oil change, change of filters) would be needed for the engine to run optimally.
Even after taking my car in, I am still experiencing a few problems.
1) Sporadic Idle - When the car is idling, the RPM shifts around. At some points, it will be so loud that it sounds as if engine parts are clanking together, and at some points it is so quiet that I wonder if my car is on.
2) Slow Start Up - Sometimes when I start my car, the engine sounds as if only 2/4 of the cylinders are running..then, after about 30 seconds, the car will turn off. This has never occurred when starting my car the first time of any day, and has never turned off while I have been in transit.
3) Problem Starting Up after putting in gas - Whenever I fill up my tank from about 1/4 full, it takes my car at least 3-4 minutes to idle smoothly.
I have a 2002 Windstar . It had an issue with low RPM while idling so I've decided to clean the IAC valve and the throttle using a crc throttle body cleaner. I accidentally opened the TPS that clicked. I put it back together and since then I have slow acceleration (I literally press the pedal to the floor and nothing), hard shifting between 1 2 and 3, and it still has low RPM while idling (not as much compared to before tho).
I tried several positions of the TPS because I honestly thought that was the issue but it did not have any effect. At this point I am not sure what to do. I read some person online suggest that it could be a clogged EGR valve.
I've had my Scion xb since 22,000 miles. It's now 127,000 miles and I am having the first big issue.....or maybe. My husband thinks that it's something simple and an easy fix like a relay. We drove it on the highway in the morning and intermittently throughout the day, parked it for 3 hours and then started driving again. Three lights came on VSC, Check Engine, Trac Off and then it started accelerating slower than usual up hills and idling extremely low. We stopped and checked the oil level - at the 1/2 way mark and not due for a change yet. Feels like it might stall - it hasn't yet. It definitely climbs hills much slower than it has in the past but this is nerve-wrecking - especially when there are no mechanics working on the weekend.
View 6 RepliesMy 03 with a 5.4 has been hesitating a when you accelerate and cutting out as well as idling rough and die when you slow down. It does all this intermittently. Not every stop or every time you accelerate. I first got a code for the MAF and both banks running rich (PO102, PO172, PO175) so I cleaned the throttle body and MAF. The running rich code came back (PO172, PO175) so I then changed the MAF and air filter . It seemed to work for a day or so then my light came on and I figured the same code was back but to my surprise it was now both banks running lean(PO171, PO174) so I took my MAF back and got another one. It hasn't set a code yet but it is still running poorly. I have changed all the COP's and plugs as well ....
View 13 Replies2002 Ford Escape XLS 5 Speed, My timing belt was just replaced along with the timing idler pulley, timing belt tensioner, serpentine belt, tensioner and idler pulley, spark plugs, and valve cover gasket. It drove great yesterday but this morning when I was taking my son to school the engine started knocking. It does this idling and at slow speeds. Once driving the noise disappears. What this may be?
View 1 RepliesMy friend has a 1994 Mazda MX-6 and she tells me that it is making a chugging noise when she drives slow and it screeches when its idling. She must have had mentioned its her timing belt maybe but my brother things those don't slip really until they snap. What is wrong with this car?
View 1 Replies1996 s-10 runs very rough at start-up .. smooths out after it warms up and runs really great. Is it just the plugs and wires or something else??
View 1 RepliesThe A/C is not working in my 2002 S-10. Currently the compressor runs, but the air is not getting cool. I tried adding freon, but it has not worked. The low side pressure is about 50 psi, and would drop a few pounds when the compressor is started, but it drops no further. I have not noticed the compressor cycling while it is on. The can of refrigerant is not empty, but the system does not seem to be taking any more from that can.
Do I just need to add some more coolant from a fresh can, or is something else at work here. Also, probably unrelated, when down shifting it is fairly common for the air to switch from blowing up front to blowing on the defrost.
Today for the first time, my fan won't run on anything but "4". Car only has 2K miles, and of course I'll take it to the dealer unless it's something I can fix with VAG-COM.
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