2001 Chevy Silverado, 1500 4wd. 135k miles. Front passenger wheel squeaks when rolled forward or back. Checked brakes and they are fine. While I had it apart, I could hear the squeak which sounded inside. I don't know the terminology, but there is a bar between two rubber boots. The squeak sounded as if it was coming from the boot near the center of the truck where there are four bolts.
View 1 RepliesI have 2002 BMW 325xi (all wheel drive). For about 2-3 months now there is a squeaky noise coming from passenger side front wheel. It sounds like a really bad and rusty coil spring but the weird part is that that noise only appears in warm weather. It has nothing to do with how much distance I drive. If it is 70 odd degrees or warmer outside, the noise starts. In warm weather, the car does not have to be running/moving to hear the noise. I can just push down the passenger side front and hear the noise. I took to a mechanic and he wants me to replace tie rods, control arm and struts. basically the whole suspension system on the front for this noise (in other words, he does not know what exactly is making the noise, so replace everything)
View 5 RepliesI drive a 2006 Toyota Corolla, and I've noticed e a squeaky noise coming from my passenger side front wheel. The noise only occurs when I am accelerating the car and driving between 20-40 mph. As I accelerate, the squeaks increase in frequency. They disappear when I brake.
A mechanic replaced the front brake pads two years ago (15,000 miles ago) and also shaved the rotors. About a year later, the squeaks began. I brought the car into a different mechanic at that time (because I moved) and asked them to take a look. They checked the brakes and said they looked good. They attributed the noise to metallic brakes as opposed to ceramic and said the noise would go away in time. The noise has persisted, however, and is becoming more intense.
What is going wrong? Could this be a CV joint or wheel bearing issue? A rotor issue?
My car is a 99.5 Jetta 2.0 5 speed. Recently it had developed a squeak coming from the front right wheel. It speeds up/slows down based on vehicle speed. I jacked up the car to examine and once the wheel was off I checked everything and it appeared fine. Wheel bearing, tierod, and ball joint all replaced a few months ago, and brake pads and rotors replaced a week ago.
With the wheel off I spun rotor and it did still make the noise. That being said it rules out the possibility of anything to do with the wheel or any bushings. Obvious answer would be the brakes but they are brand new and appear fine. Anything missing?
My truck it's shakes the dash shakes the steering wheel shakes whenever driving below 20 miles an hour it's stops or I can't tell it shakes. What causing this? My 1999 4/4 Chevy silverado...
View 6 RepliesI noticed earlier this afternoon that when I opened my front passenger door to reach in and get my phone out, the hinge creaked/squeaked. Everytime I would open/close the door it would make the sound. This door has only been opened about 5 times since I bought the car on April 30th. I have never heard tell of this on a new car, so it is disappointing. Had I had a passenger in the car and they heard that, well it would have been a little embarrassing on a brand new car. It sounded like a 30 year old car that had never had its door hinges oiled. It may just need some grease or something, but I would think this should have been lubed properly during assembly.
View 7 Replies1993 chevy silverardo ... There is a knocking noise coming from passenger side dash i turn the key on it starts tell maybe i get down the road, when i turn the truck off it knock for like 25 secs. I just got the truck didn't find out until I took it home.
View 8 RepliesI have a 2006 Chevy Silverado. After a complete stop a distinct "clunk" comes from the rear passenger tire. It's not heard or felt every time maybe 70%. I've raised the rear end and spun both tires to check for a sticking caliper. I haven't removed the tire. Brake fluid is full and in good shape.
View 2 RepliesI have a 99 tahoe 4x4. It has 220000 miles. I had a wheel hum that got loud when I went faster and the pitch changed with speed. It doesn't seem to matter if I swerve left or right. I took it to a dealer and was told I needed bearings, both wheels. I bought the wheel hub assembly and changed them out. I figured it is just better to change the whole assembly. Well, I still have the hum and it seems to be getting worse. I don't know if the u-joint would do that or if it could be a shaft thing. I can not tell what needs to be fixed but can usually fix them when I know what it is. I don't know if there is a transfer case problem either? I know the shaft spins when I turn the wheel. I assume the lock for 4x4 would be in the transfer case? It seems to be getting worse and I don't want to do any damage. I don't get paid for another week and have to drive 50 miles a day.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2012 Camry SE and my front passenger seat seems to shake/shudder alot. It constantly shudders and makes so much noise when no one is sitting in it, that it's driving me crazy! I can't tolerate the noise of it. If I go over a bump it shudders, if i'm driving on a rough highway, it shudders and shakes so badly that I have to put my hand on it to make it stop. It makes squeaky noises as well. It doesn't happen when driving on smooth surface.
Secondly, the center dash is very squeaky, and made out of hard plastic. I feel there is no insulation behind, and thus it squeaks whenever I go over a bump. What steps did you take to resolve it?
I have a 2006 Chevy 1500 Silverado. The driver side front tire is making a grinding and clunking noise. It started yesterday afternoon and has gotten worse. When making a left turn there is a grinding/rubbing noise. When I go over a bump,rough gravel, or pot hole a horrible clunking comes from this tire. I haven't taken to a repair shop yet.
View 10 Replies2001 Chevy Silverado, 2wd, 5.3 engine, 232,000 miles, front hubs with integral sensors replaced about 20,000 miles ago. Now when I brake, and just before coming to a complete stop, the ABS kicks in. Doesn't happen if I brake hard. If I let up on the brake momentarily, it stops and the rest of the stop is smooth.
Sometimes the brake and ABS lights come on, but when I had the OBD hooked up, there were no stored codes, and the brake and ABS lights go off once you turn the ignition off and then restart the engine. I suspect the problem is with the sensors for the rear wheels, but don't know where they are located.
There are no wires going to the rear wheels or the axle. Tried pulling the fuse for the ABS system, but that makes the brake and ABS lights stay on constantly.
My son's 2001 Prius (Gen I) has squeaky noises in the front end. When I had the two front tires replaced yesterday, I asked them to see if they could diagnose the problem and he said he thought it could be the control arm because he had had the same noise in his Toyota Camry and that was what it was.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Chevy 2wheel drive 4.3 V6 Pickup with a long lasting engine knock. I use it only to haul trash and building materials, maybe once every other week. The knock is sporadic. If I take a long trip and drive on an interstate highway the following morning upon start-up the truck will knock heavily and continue to do so as long as it is running. If I take the truck for a short local trip, the following morning it will start with no knock and only start knocking after driving maybe 10 miles. If I drive only short trips, the truck will almost always start without knocking and only knock once it is fully warmed up. I purchased this vehicle from my brother who drove it this way ever since he purchased it at a salvage auction (full of dents and some damage) who put over 20,000 miles on it with this same engine knock.
Other than the dents, the truck is in great shape, no rust, and has 118,000 miles on it. I would like to keep this thing because it was very cheap and I only use it sporadically. So, I'd like to know if I'm going to eventually have to put a motor in it or if there is some small fix I could make to stop this knocking sound. The sound: It is heavy. It sounds bad. It knocks along with the rpm of the motor. My brother, who is also a great mechanic, thinks it may be piston slap or something in the valve system. I've also had a mechanic listen to it. He thinks it's a rod bearing or wrist pin. What I don't understand is how could it be any of those things when it makes a difference how I drive it the last time it was used? Could it be something simple like a vacuum issue, knock sensor or crank sensor?
I have a 2003 chevy impala ls, now I felt wobbling in the front more on the right a few weeks ago and it started getting worse especially when I would brake, I had it looked at by a mechanic who shook,twirled, yanked and examined my wheels and tires, and told me it just looked like I needed a new tire up there.So I went bought 2 new tires and had them out on. When they did it they took the rim from the right and rotated it to the left side. I drove off thinking the wobble was gone , but I still feel it. Now it feels like it's on the left side not as bad but you can still feel it constantly........ So I guess my question would be is the problem the rim itself then?
View 13 RepliesI have an old base model 2001 Silverado, so manual everything. Here's my problem-- the air direction control knob (feet, defrost, face, etc.) is stuck on defrost. Literally stuck. Obviously, the knob attaches to and is supposed to turn a metal rod that then changes the direction of the air flow, but the rod will not turn at all...I even detached the knob and tried to turn it with a pliers! The climate control and fan speed knobs both work. What might be causing this?
View 6 RepliesWe have an 01 Sport Trac as a backup vehicle and it has the 3 position rotary switch on the dash for 4wd.
The transfer case engages and disengages but the front wheels seem to stay engaged with the front differential.
There are no manual hubs and I really don't think it should ALWAYS be engaged like that.
What is the probable issue and ALSO can manual hubs be installed on this truck?
Someone mentioned vacuum engagement? but I didn't see any vacuum hoses near the spindles. Didn't see any wires either other than ABS...
Six months ago we purchased a '91 Chevy Pickup and 3 months ago the truck started to "sneeze". Sometimes while accelerating the truck makes a "toot" noise from in front of the driver under the hood, and with the noise I have a momentary loss of RPMs. This can happen a number of times in a row, making pulling out on to busy streets difficult and dangerous. Most of the time, I take my foot completely off the gas and then re-apply it, and the issue goes away. It happens both with a cold engine and a warm/hot engine. This problem started when it was cold out (around 10 degrees Fahrenheit) and the mechanic I talked to about it thought it was the E10 87 gas I was putting in.
I switched to a 97 octane/no-ethenol fuel and the problem went away, until about a week ago when our temperatures finally broke 50 consistently. The problem is back and with it is a minor fluctuation of RPM when idling in neutral. The truck also created a new symptom, I was driving at about 50mph and the truck acted like it slipped on ice... I had evened out my speed and the truck seemed to start coasting then got back to driving at speed, it jerked the whole truck, like driving over a patch of ice. I don't know if it has anything to do with the original problem but all symptoms may be the same thing....
The truck is a 91 Chevy 1500K, 5.7L V8 and has 74,000 miles (mostly highway towing). It had been sitting 2 years, not really being used, before we bought it. We had the fuel injection system cleaned when they did the oil change, right after we purchased the vehicle.
I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado with the 4.8L V-8 engine. It acts like it is running out of gas ( the gas tank is over half full). The truck has sat for about 6 months in this condition without being started here in Sacramento, CA. I then replaced the fuel filter and for a few minutes it started and the engine ran fine (without actually driving it). A few days later I started it again and it now again acts like it has fuel starvation, it will rev up briefly then act like it is running out of fuel. I know the fuel pumps are the Achilles Heel of these trucks, but before I try changing it I was wondering if there might perhaps be another problem such as the new fuel filter plugging up quickly or possibly an electrical problem. I've always heard these fuel pumps either work or they don't work, nothing in between. This problem is intermittent but big enough the truck is not driveable. Is there any way to get a good take on the problem before diving into the fuel pump replacement and hoping that solves the problem ?
View 5 RepliesMy 79 year old father put fuel additive in his 2010 Chevy Impala. Don't ask me how much, or for how long... The Check Engine light came on. I never got a clear answer from him on what his mechanic said about it. Five to Ten fill ups later the Check Engine light went out on its own. Engine seems fine. Could this have caused damage to the engine or emissions controls? Would a computer diagnostic from a mechanic pinpoint any problems? Would you recommend a computer diagnostic be performed?
View 6 RepliesI just bought a 2007 LS460L. 've noticed a squeaky sound coming from the wheels at about 10-20 MPH but then it goes away. I bought this car from Land Rover Cerritos so i can't imagine that they sold me a car with worn brakes.
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