Chevrolet - 1500 - Heating :: 1991 - Hot Air Coming Out Of Vents Especially At Highway Speeds
Jul 9, 2011
1991 Chevy 1500 pickup truck. The heater is ALWAYS on, no matter what I do. I suspect that some sort of mechanical controller or vent shut off device/air mixer is malfunctioning because I don't think the heat is actually coming from the heater core, I think it's just engine heat.
I pulled the fuse on the heater which turned off the blower and controls, but the heat is still coming out the vents, especially at highway speeds. So this leads me to believe that exterior air is pulling engine heat into the cab.
I don't know how I would even begin to fix this. I need a starting point. Where would I look for the vent or flap or whatever that mixes the cool air with the hot air? The AC hasn't worked since I bought the truck about 18 months ago.
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Ok, so, my heater works, I can feel the hot air coming out of the vents, but no matter what setting I use, I can't get the blower to kick on. The hot air just trickles out. What might be wrong, and how much, or how hard it would be to fix? The weird part is that sometimes the fan will work.
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1991 chevy silverado 1500 4.3 ... Cruising at 55 down highway truck died for 2-3 seconds only to refire itself. After doing so for a few days it wouldn't start at all. Changed fuel pump,fuel filter and all spark plugs. Now runs fine until I shut it off briefly. Then it stalls on me on 3rd,4th and 5th gears. Bucks badly. Is it a fuel issue or something to do with starting it while it's warm. Also it runs good with the check light ON. Soon as it goes off it starts shutting off and refiring itself when I give it gas.
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There are bits of foam blowing out of the ac vents on my chevy pickup. Took it to the shop. They checked it over and said that the AC is functioning properly no problems with the system. The foam they state is coming from the doors inside of the ac system and suggested that I ignore it. I looked closer inside the vents with a flashlight and I do believe they are correct from what I saw. It is messy as it is greasy if squished. I am wondering if try to use an air compressor to blow out the vents and remove as much of that junk as possible and was it very successful?
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'98 Chevy Lumina. Driving at Highway speed, I hear a short rattle. Makes me think of linkages vibrating, from the passenger area. Few minutes later I hear it again. Few minutes later I look down to see me thermostat at 240+. I watch it redline, hold for a few minutes, then the rattle again and my temp goes down to 160 or so. All of this happens at 60 mph, in 45 degree weather.
Rinse, repeat about every 10-15 minutes. I notice that while the engine temp is climbing, I have no hot air from the vents and after the rattle and temp drop I do have hot air. Check the block when I get home and I see the familiar green puddles. So is this: Water pump, the apparent source of the leaks, heater core causing back pressure to leak at the hose, or the ever dreaded head gasket?
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Vehicle - 2005 Suburban LS, 5.3L V8; manual slide temp controls, separate controls for driver and passenger sides.Issue - In winter drive side vents will suddenly switch from blowing hot air to cold air. Just the opposite happens in the summer with drive side vents suddenly switching for blowing cold air to hot. Interestingly the passenger side vents operate normally. Sometimes if I stop and restart the vehicle the system will start working properly again but this does not always work.
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My battery was drained two nights ago, I jumped started it fine. However, the last two days, the truck has been hard to start, and battery seems low, even though the vehicle has been driven plenty. Today a new problem as arose, with the AC climate control. Driver side vents blow out very Hot Air, and Passenger Side blows out very cold Air. The setting on the digital climate control system says 60 F on both sides. Its possible the AC was on when the truck was jump started.
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We have a 91 civic whose air conditioner doesn't work. The coolant level is good, and the compressor is running, but we only get external air coming through the vent.
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I have a '99 Chevy 2500 diesel truck. After driving it at highway speeds for more than 20 minutes and turning it off, it won't restart. The problem seems to be in the battery cable and is definitely heat-related. In cold weather or after a fairly short drive, all it takes is popping the hood to cool off the engine compartment, and waiting. If the engine and/or the weather is too hot, that can take an hour. Then it starts just fine. I've cleaned the terminals and made sure the connections are tight. Two mechanics have looked at it and were stumped.
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2001 Chevy Silverado, 2wd, 5.3 engine, 232,000 miles, front hubs with integral sensors replaced about 20,000 miles ago. Now when I brake, and just before coming to a complete stop, the ABS kicks in. Doesn't happen if I brake hard. If I let up on the brake momentarily, it stops and the rest of the stop is smooth.
Sometimes the brake and ABS lights come on, but when I had the OBD hooked up, there were no stored codes, and the brake and ABS lights go off once you turn the ignition off and then restart the engine. I suspect the problem is with the sensors for the rear wheels, but don't know where they are located.
There are no wires going to the rear wheels or the axle. Tried pulling the fuse for the ABS system, but that makes the brake and ABS lights stay on constantly.
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I drive a 2004 chevy Tahoe and have had this problem for about 8 months. It started out very faint and occasional, but has now escalated to loud and consistent. So it ONLY happens when turning right. I've tried to replicate it when turning left and had no success. It happens when I am turning fairly hard at a decent speed. ex. Pulling into my driveway. I've already checked the wheel bearings and Ball joints.
Another thing is that the ABS light is on sometimes when i start the car and comes on every time i turn the steering wheel all the way to the right. It also has a problem where it will shake almost uncontrollably when driving at 65+MPH after hitting a bump or sometimes just randomly on a smooth surface. We just got new tires and balanced them. It did the same with the previous set we had. I know I'm asking for a lot, but where to start?
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I have a 1993 Chevy C1500, and about 3 weeks ago I started noticing that whenever it gets to temp I start hearing a knocking coming from the valves, and I lose almost all oil pressure. I also lose a lot of power. What could be causing this? Am I looking at a full on engine rebuild?
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I have a 2001 chevy metro 4 cyl. with 13 inch wheels and automatic transmission. The engine rpm's are running high at highway speeds. Would a larger diameter wheel support this situation?
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I have a 1995 4X4 Chevy Silverado. Well tonight the lower radiator hose came off, and all the coolant drained out while my wife was driving it around town. She noticed that the temp gauge spiked, and tried to get home. The truck stalled, was able to restart it for a moment, stalled again and now when we try to start it up there is a low spinning noise coming from the area around the starter. I think it might be the starter trying to engage the flywheel. My question is whether or not this could because the motor has seized, or is there another symptom that could potentially make this noise.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Silverado (4x4 Extended Cab 5.3 L Engine) that only seems to "heat" the interior of the vehicle through the floor and dash vents. Hot air comes out of the vents no matter what I do ( I can direct this flow of hot air to the floor, dash, or both) . Even whe I use the A/C at the coldest selection it does not change the fact that HOT air is coming out of the vents. I am guessing that a door of some sort is "stuck" so that only engine heat is coming into the cab. Not sure if that is possible but just a thought. Whats going on?
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1993 chevy silverardo ... There is a knocking noise coming from passenger side dash i turn the key on it starts tell maybe i get down the road, when i turn the truck off it knock for like 25 secs. I just got the truck didn't find out until I took it home.
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I have a 1991 Cadillac DeVille sedan with about 150,000 miles, I purchased this at an estate sale. As soon as I bought it, I replaced the spark plugs, wires, distributor cap, rotor, serpentine belt, power steering pulley, and of course changed the oil and oil filter. I was getting about 14-15 mpg (compared to 12 when I picked the car up). And the car ran good, not like brand new, but good. About a couple of weeks ago (as it started getting hot) the car would start chugging, backfiring and stalling, only after about 20 miles of driving (my commute to work is 35 mi), so I would spend the other 15 miles driving with four-ways on going at most 30 mph. But, on the drive home (at 2 am) I would have no issues. So, I got sick of that fun and changed the PVC valve and fuel filter (which looked like the original) and with every fill-up in addition to using 93 octane gas (as directed) and fuel injector cleaner, the gas mileage is around 10 mpg and the chugging persists after heating up. Two things to note,
1) the fans for the radiator do not turn on at all, and
2) the catalytic converter doesn't smell like rotten eggs.
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I'm getting heat out of the passenger side, no heat on the driver's. Does not matter what is selected - floor, dash or defrost - the driver side blows nothing but cold air.
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2012 Prius Five- Had an annoying vibration coming from the trunk area at highway speeds- especially on concrete roadways. First thought was the problematic rear license plate/frame that I've read about- so I used some felt pads around the rear plate & frame but still had the annoying vibration ad highway speeds. Over the weekend I had some spare time so I started poking around in the trunk area by rapping in several areas with a heavy hand till I heard the same (or similar frequency) vibrating sound.
Eventually I was able to isolate it to somewhere under the rear deck. I removed the carpet, then plastic deck then even the spare, etc., Found it was actually coming from the sheet metal box that surrounds the connections coming from the car and relays to the hybrid battery box. Seems the metal edges of that small connections/relay enclosure were just touching the battery box metal enclosure just lightly enough to vibrate under certain conditions. But how to fix?
To make a long story short- I disconnected the 12v battery, removed the black exhaust duct over small metal cover, removed the battery cooling fan intake shroud, then two annoying orange lock rivets, then a few 10mm nuts and one 10mm bolt- and finally the metal connection/relay cover came off.
Once off- I used black electric tape to line every seam where that metal cover touched the battery box metal cover or car frame- I then lined the battery box metal cover the same way in the areas where the connection/relay cover mated on it. Reassembly was the reverse of disassembly. Upon ride to work this morning- vibration was 100% gone- fixed!
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I have a 2003 Impala with about 124,000 miles on it. A few weeks back I started to hear what can best be described as a "water gurgling" sound coming from my dashboard area or where the vents are. It happens especially when make a tight turn or something, it only last a couple of seconds and doesn't happen all the time. What am I hearing and what was the cause of this and is there any fixes for it?
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The middle heating vents on my 1999 Subaru Legacy sedan stopped working recently. The other vents (by the window, defroster and floor) work fine. What might be wrong and how to fix it? The car has nearly 170K miles and I need to keep it running.
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