Recent motor swap, wont turn over, headlights come on when key is on accesory Wiring problem? Stock Harness. ONLY wires touched were for throttle body and fuel ingection.
View 3 RepliesI have water leaking from bottom of motor it's look like coming from oil pan its chevy1500 1999 4/4with a v6 motor but not for sure looked at oil no water in oil it's really comes out when motor is running.
View 12 Replies99 suburban. X 1+ year progressively harder to start. Will turn over, but seems like it is not getting gas. Engine replaced 10k ago after I blew the last one at 220k. Did this before and after replacement. Once started runs fine. Can hear fuel pump kick on when key turned to on position? fuel relay?
View 8 RepliesOur son has a 97 Chevy C/K pickup truck and told me about a problem that I thought was easy to solve, and we tried, but it wasn't. The driver's side front turn signal flashes fast. I checked the rear lights on that side and the turn signal wasn't working at all, let alone the tail lights, so I replaced the bulbs. They're the kind with the 2 filaments. I noticed the old bulbs were covered with some nasty yellow corrosion. Now the turn signal problem is the same and still no brake light on that side but he has tail lights at night. I tried to clean up the corrosion in the circuit board (none on the bottom light, which is the reverse light) with a neighbor's wire brush but it didn't change anything, so he suggested I change the circuit board.
View 6 RepliesMy 1997 chevy suburban wouldn't start after being parked for a few days. the battery seemed to drained out so quickly and not because the lights were left on. The alternator was replaced less than two years ago. and the battery less than a year ago. I tried to jump start but it did now turn orver. What is the problem?
View 1 RepliesThe truck is parked in the drive. I noticed when the truck had been parked in the drive I noticed that the tail lights came on and then about 20 seconds later turned off. I checked that the ignition was off, doors were completely closed, etc. It has happened several times. I'm worried the there is an electrical problem that might drain the battery.
View 10 RepliesBeen fighting a starting problem for months with a 1976 Corvette. Car starts fine on first try, but if I shut off the engine, it won't crank again for hours, usually overnight. All I get is a buzzer noise when I turn the key - no starting motor noises. This happens no matter how long the engine has run, be it 30 seconds or an hour, so I don't thing the starting motor is getting hot. Car has a new battery and alternator - that didn't solve anything. What to check or replace next? Starting motor? Solinoid? Ignition switch? By the way, the car has a manual transmission.
View 6 RepliesWhen I turn the lights on , the dash lights go out on my 1988 k1500 silverado.
View 4 Replies I have a 1995 Ford Taurus, and I just swapped in a new engine from a donor from 2000. The engine is a Flex Fuel 3.0L Vulcan OHV.I've got a wealth of background knowledge as a mechanic [5 years+] and an electrician [4 years+]I have swapped over everything required to make this work, in theory. I swapped exhaust, fuel system, and computer/harness and all the relays to go with it. I also made a custom gauge cluster from a 2000 Taurus as well.
Well everything works just peachy, all the wiring for the most part is correct minus a few buzzing relays that I just need to work out. The main issue this [now monster in my eyes] has is the PCM is not telling the FPDM to tell the Fuel Pump to start. Turn key, and no 3 second startup. I've checked the fuel pump, and it's fine. I replaced the PCM and that didn't solve it. I have the security system from the 2000 in there as well, thinking that was an issue. I also have the emission sensors and canisters installed, just like you would see in the 2000.
I'm at my wits end trying to figure out why the PCM isn't sending voltage out to the FPDM. I had to of missed something along the way but I double checked and still can't find anything. How to get this working properly.
I have a 1987 ford ranger, it has a 2.0L carborated motor and I also have a 1994 ford ranger fuel injected motor I believe it's a 2.3L, I am wondering if the swap will work to put the 94 motor in the 87....
View 3 Replies2001 5.4L 4x4...Engine bought from reputable junkyard with 140K has new manifold studs, motorcraft spark plugs, and 8 coils (bought on Amazon).
No check engine codes...checked for vacuum leaks...And has rough idle.
Is there a reason it might have rough idle aside from blown motor? The mechanic was going to take it to get computer reflashed but not trying to throw money down the drain...
I am a Honda/Acura nerd. Decided to buy my friends 02 Celica that had piston slap from the famous oil consumption issue i learned about. Did a bunch of research and swapped in a Corolla motor. Everything seemed to go as normal, its in and running just fine. Only problem is now the power steering pump is making a very loud whining noise like its low on fluid.
Now first i must say the car ran, drove and turned just fine before the swap. No noises or issues aside from the piston slap. On the 1zzfe engine there is 2 bolts to remove the power steering pump and move it out of the way, easy enough.
My question is how did the power steering pump manage to get damaged? I've inspected under the car a bunch of times, inspected the top of the power steering pump, inspected everything i could looking for a problem. I just don't see any...no smashed hardlines, no leaks, has plenty of fluid, sensor is firmly plugged in. I notice when it is making the whining sound, the hardline that connects to the top of the pump is vibrating, which is what is making the sound i guess...if i crank the wheel all the way to the right or left it doesn't make the noise at all...
Finally finshed the installing the new motor. Motor cranks but wont start. I have spark on all cylinders. Pressure in fuel rail but not sure how much. I don't hear any "clicking" coming from the fuel injectors. i measured the resistance on the injectors and its good. I just went out and got a new battery for it. I am not sure where to go from here.
View 14 RepliesDo I have to pull out the complete switch assembly, or could it be some thing else?
View 4 RepliesI have a 1995 Chevy S-10 4.3 V6 TBI Z engine, manual trans 4x4 with 228,000 miles. I went through a long and expensive ordeal trying to fix an ignition problem. I won't get into the whole story but I went to 4 mechanics over 1.5 years. I finally have it fixed and running good. Last mechanic replaced the whole engine with a used one.
One of the quirks I have now is some of the gauges are not accurate since the engine swap. The new engine came out of a 1500 truck, not an S-10. The battery and oil pressure gauges are working fine. It's the speedometer and coolant gauges that are off. Speedometer is reading about 10+ mph above the actual speed and the temp is reading very low. Mechanic says the new engine wouldn't affect the gauges. The gauge needles are moving smoothly, not sticking or jerky. Is there any way to adjust them? Or maybe the sensors? Mechanic says I have to replace the whole cluster. I don't see any aftermarket ones for this truck.
The problem I had started 2 months ago. Wipers froze to windshield and I didn't get it loose enough so I turned wipers on it moved and then stopped, figured just frozen,.. but once I got it all loose she didn't work. Tested everything
When I was pulling the motor I noticed it was kinda working when moving around.. but I replaced motor I found out testing with the new motor that tiny ground wire was shorted out. I guess it burned somewhere, as when I ran a wire from the motor to a bolt. It worked. Motor did work slow.
But I was driving other day and wanted to use wipers boom not working. I just pulled it off. Motor doesn't seem to be working but the delay is working I run a meter to the battery and then to the 1 wire on the harness and she trips on and off the 12 volts. So I guessing the motor is burned out. And that thin ground wire has no ground to it so I'm sure it blew before the 25 amp breaker will ever break
I have a 97 chevy and the only way to start it is to jump the starter relay, not sure if it is the key switch ot the nuetral saftey switch.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts (sorry, not to up on my car lingo here lol)
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts...
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
I would like to have some knowledge or information in case I have to take it to a mechanic to have it looked at. The last people (Just Breaks) I took it to really tried to screw me over. After they worked on it the Emergency break light was on and his fix was to just "unplug" the sensor. I said Heck no! Fix it! after three bleeds it tripped the sensor off. So I am a bit hesitant to have them looked at after that experience.
Infrequently (once every couple weeks) my 2002 Suburban won't start. The starter seems to work properly as the engine tries to turn over and even seems to initially start for a fraction of a second but then dies. If I wait 10 to 30 minutes it will usually start without a problem. This problem does not seem to be related to outside temp, recent use or car position. After dealing with this occasionally inconvenient problem for months I took the car to a service shop and was told that if they could not reproduce the problem that trying to fix it would be a wild goose chase. When the problem occurred again I took it to another shop who kept the car for 3-4 days but was unable to reproduce the problem.
They suggested that there was a problem with the fuel pump but did not want to replace it unless they were sure that was the problem. I then spoke to the Chevy dealership shop who also said it was most likely the fuel pump. In my frustration dealing with this problem I took the car back to my local shop and ask them to replace the fuel pump ($800). Unfortunately, the intermittent problem has persisted and I'm not sure what to do next. I did have an after market remote ignition added a number of years ago and took it back to them to see if this could be related and they said no way. I have also wondered about the security system being a problem in that my rear hatch cargo door does not lock even though the other doors lock normally.
Car: 1993 Chevy C 1500 (2WD) manual transmission Background: The car sat unused in a garage for 2 weeks (no problems before this) the first drive after its break, the pickup almost felt like it was slipping and power was not getting to the wheels. The vibrating began the next day. The vibrating is very obvious and unpleasant under acceleration at approximately 2000 RPMs in any gear. Grease was injected via grease zerk into the center carrier bearing area and the vibrating was marginally better. Today the back end of the truck was lifted up and put into gear and brought up to 30 MPH. The pickup was then lowered and a test drive revealed that the vibrating was considerably diminished.
An inspection of the drive shaft reveals:no vibrating in neutral the U-joints are not loose or leaking; the drive shaft has 2 small dents which are countered on the opposite side by weights;the drive shaft will move up and down ~1 inch or less if pushed in bench press fashion near the carrier bearing;the drive shaft does not move in the direction of the length of the vehicle;the drive shaft will rotate freely 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn before it is stopped by the back of the transmission or the rear differential; no mud clods in wheel wells;new tires properly inflated.