Chevrolet - 1500 :: Wheel Hum That Got Loud When Went Faster And Pitch Changed With Speed
Jan 1, 2013
I have a 99 tahoe 4x4. It has 220000 miles. I had a wheel hum that got loud when I went faster and the pitch changed with speed. It doesn't seem to matter if I swerve left or right. I took it to a dealer and was told I needed bearings, both wheels. I bought the wheel hub assembly and changed them out. I figured it is just better to change the whole assembly. Well, I still have the hum and it seems to be getting worse. I don't know if the u-joint would do that or if it could be a shaft thing. I can not tell what needs to be fixed but can usually fix them when I know what it is. I don't know if there is a transfer case problem either? I know the shaft spins when I turn the wheel. I assume the lock for 4x4 would be in the transfer case? It seems to be getting worse and I don't want to do any damage. I don't get paid for another week and have to drive 50 miles a day.
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I have a '99 Chevy Lumina 3100 V6 with 54k miles. There is a loud, high-pitch buzzy whine that changes pitch with engine RPM/transmission speed. The whining noise is only evident while the car is accelerating (forward or reverse), and above 5 mph. I removed the serpentine belt and drove it briefly (500 feet) - the noise is still there without the belt. I figure it's safe to assume it's not the power steering pump, alternator, H20 pump, idler or belt tensioner. The transmission has had regular service, and shifts smoothly in all gears (fluid is clean and level is full). There is only a slight raspy "scraping" noise in park or neutral, which becomes almost undetectable when shifting to drive or reverse with the brake still applied.
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I replaced the timing belt an waterpump at 262,000 miles and ever since the engine makes a loud low pitch noise that varies in pitch depending on the engine speed. I replaced the alternator and it didn't work. I don't know if the power steering pump, a/c compressor or something else is making this awful sound.
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My front right tire has been squealing when I turn. It also makes a high pitch tone when driving on the Interstate or at faster speeds. (It might be the wheel barrings - is that the same thing as a CV joint?)
Is the power steering fluid found under the green cap, under the hood? Cause I checked that and it was filled. What do I do? I don't like the squeak when I turn, nor the high pitch constant sound when driving on the interstate. Also I just posted a report about really poor gas mileage. Could these problems be connected??
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Got a 2004 Chevy Impala with 99K miles. Speedometer seems to be acting sporadically often. Sometimes, it will shift 10 or 20 mph "faster" than actual speed then, sometimes, it goes to the "maximum" speed on the dial and just stays there with the car on or off. Then a few days later, starts working normal again.
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My question is what could cause a high idle?I have a 95 Chevy pickup 4x4 with a 5.7... Recently the lower radiator hose fell came off the radiator, dumping the liquids all over the street. The motor shut down, and every time we went to start it there would be a loud whining/spinning noise. We thought that the motor seized, so we pulled the plugs, turned the motor by the crank bolt.Turned out that the starter went bad, the spindle and bendex werent catching on the flywheel.
After examining the flywheel teeth, and gapping the plugs to the recommended manufacture gap, (they werent when we pulled them), we got a new starter installed. It started right up! But it ran at a high idle, around 1500-2000 RPM. I did not have a chance to really let it warm up (it was cold and raining). Now there is a gray flexhose that is running from the air filter housing down to the exhaust manifold. If i remember correctly, it was not seated very well when I took it off. Could it be causing too much of a vacuum?
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Transmission comes out of gear and has a loud whirring sound when in reverse, but not every time. it has happened when driving at about 60 mph (twice) Sometimes it happens a couple times in a row sometimes it is ok for a couple weeks.
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I am trying to get some advice on a diagnosis for a transmission problem i'm experiencing with my vehicle? It's a manual transmission and the sound i am hearing is when i shift gears is a loud whirling grinding sound. It's really loud in 2nd 3rd and 5th and doesn't stop.
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My truck it's shakes the dash shakes the steering wheel shakes whenever driving below 20 miles an hour it's stops or I can't tell it shakes. What causing this? My 1999 4/4 Chevy silverado...
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2001 Chevy Silverado, 1500 4wd. 135k miles. Front passenger wheel squeaks when rolled forward or back. Checked brakes and they are fine. While I had it apart, I could hear the squeak which sounded inside. I don't know the terminology, but there is a bar between two rubber boots. The squeak sounded as if it was coming from the boot near the center of the truck where there are four bolts.
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I have a 2012 Camry SE I4. The problem is my car speed odometer is faster than my radar detector speed. I have 2 detectors and they are both not show the same speed compare to the speed odometer. For example, I am going 70mph, the detector reads like 67-68mph. So the speed odometer is off about 2-3mph. I have OEM size on my car. I know the GPS on my detector is more accurate. So my speed odometer has problem?
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Sometimes I will stop at a light and my idling rpm will go from 600 (usual rate she idles at) to about 950. While this may seem inconsequential in the grand scheme of things, it's noticeable enough that it seems like the car wants to go. It'll lead me to depress the brake more. You can also hear the higher pitch of the faster turning engine (it is a 50% increase in speed). This will happen at random times so I have not been able to pinpoint if it is caused by a particular driving style. ECM for this?
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I have a 2004 F-150 SCrew Lariat 4X4 with 80K miles. Over the past month or so, every once in awhile there would be a loud metallic "clacking" sound (kind of like sticking a peice of aluminum in a bike's spokes) that would start at higher speeds and would turn into a low pitched whirring gear sound as I slowed down and eventually there would be a thud followed by a sensation of running over a small bump and the noise would be gone. Kind of confusing I know, but that is the best way to describe it. My gut feeling is a wheel bearing or transmission problem....
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So I changed my oil with T6 and archoil and immediate miss at around 1500rpm then it clears up. I can stomp on it after that and it's fine. I know this has happened to others. My last oil change was also T6 and archoil. 2005 F250, stock, atlas 40, 216,000 miles.
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I have a new 2012 Chevy Cruze with 10,000 miles on it. Chevy has issued service bulletins citing a problem that they can't seem to diagnose or repair (yet) and my car has the problem. They tell me their engineers are working on it. After the car is a little warm, when I apply the break there is a loud squeaking or whirring noise which pulsates at the speed of the tires (in other words, as I slow down, the intervals between each sound gets longer and longer). I suspect it is coming from the back. First they thought it was sticking calipers until they realized that I have drum brakes on the rear. It is loud enough that the only way no to hear this grating noise is to blast the radio.
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I have a 2004 chevy malibu LT V6. Got it in 2009 from a dealership near where I live. During the road test I did not notice the vibration, may be because I did not drive it on a freeway. Point to be noted that it came with 2 brand new front tires. I called the dealership and they did balanced the wheels for free of charge. But the problem did not go away. This time I took my car to pepboys for wheel balancing. It is better now but I still feel the vibration on the wheel @ the speed of 60 or over. I have done wheel balancing and replaced back tires. Problem still remains. I own some other cars and they don't have this issue.
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I have an 01 Ranger 4x4 that recently started to make a loud speed dependent noise from the drivers side front wheel, a quick jab to the right on the steering wheel and it stops, straiten out and it comes back...since I know my shocks are worn and have some cupping on the front tires my first thought was tire noise so I moved the back tire which is evenly worn to the front and no change, next I removed the tire and checked everything visually.
All seems ok, the brake does not seem to be dragging and there is no evidence of a cv problem, everything seems tight, so I'm guessing the problem is a bad wheel bearing? If I grab the tire at 12 and 6 there seems to be excessive movement from top to bottom, there should be none right? If memory serves any movement is indicative of bad wheel bearings? I guess I'm looking for some vindication before getting a new hub?
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My 2000 1.8t passat is quiet sick and i am unsure of where to start. here are the symptoms:
- rough idle for a minute or two when started cold
- occasional erratic idle
- low power
- the CEL would blink for 10-20 seconds on startup
- checked and cleared the codes at autozone, and now the car seems to be in limp mode. engine has NO power, cannot get speed above 20, misfires
when you try to go faster
Where are the codes that were stored:
-P1136 Air/fuel metering
- P1128 Air/fuel metering
- P0507 Idle control system, RPM high
- P0300 Random Misfire
- P0301 Cyl. 1 misfire
- P0302 Cyl. 2 misfire
- P03011 Cyl. 4 Misfire
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I recently had my 2002 1.8T in for clutch replacement at the dealer and they came back and said the crankshaft was bad ( the car was occasionally making noise when pushing the clutch in, they thought it was a throwout bearing) I took the car back to bring it back to an indie, and it is loud at idle and while accelerating (sounds like a chattering noise that gets faster as speed increases) It's now sitting in the parking lot. My question is, am I going to have to put in a whole new engine to fix this problem? can just a crankshaft be replaced?
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So 2 weeks ago I noticed that after 30 minutes of driving on the highway my steering wheel started making a loud growling noise and vibrating really hard! When I hit the brakes it got worse but got better as I slowed to 30 mph. It doesn't happen all the time and not right away, only after a while of driving and the dealership says without codes they can do nothing...
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I've read several posts that suggest the EV mode is mostly useless. I disagree. I've noticed that it's useful in gaining speed faster without the ICE, when taking off from a stop. Especially if I'm in traffic and I don't want to annoy drivers behind me.
I've noticed that conditions have to be met in order to do this, such as engine warmed up etc. but I find it very useful, and I am seeing improved MPG when doing this. I've had my 2013 PRius v Two for almost a month now.
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