Chevrolet - 1500 :: Suburan Occasionally Won't Start
Feb 3, 2013
Infrequently (once every couple weeks) my 2002 Suburban won't start. The starter seems to work properly as the engine tries to turn over and even seems to initially start for a fraction of a second but then dies. If I wait 10 to 30 minutes it will usually start without a problem. This problem does not seem to be related to outside temp, recent use or car position. After dealing with this occasionally inconvenient problem for months I took the car to a service shop and was told that if they could not reproduce the problem that trying to fix it would be a wild goose chase. When the problem occurred again I took it to another shop who kept the car for 3-4 days but was unable to reproduce the problem.
They suggested that there was a problem with the fuel pump but did not want to replace it unless they were sure that was the problem. I then spoke to the Chevy dealership shop who also said it was most likely the fuel pump. In my frustration dealing with this problem I took the car back to my local shop and ask them to replace the fuel pump ($800). Unfortunately, the intermittent problem has persisted and I'm not sure what to do next. I did have an after market remote ignition added a number of years ago and took it back to them to see if this could be related and they said no way. I have also wondered about the security system being a problem in that my rear hatch cargo door does not lock even though the other doors lock normally.
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I have a 97 chevy and the only way to start it is to jump the starter relay, not sure if it is the key switch ot the nuetral saftey switch.
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99 suburban. X 1+ year progressively harder to start. Will turn over, but seems like it is not getting gas. Engine replaced 10k ago after I blew the last one at 220k. Did this before and after replacement. Once started runs fine. Can hear fuel pump kick on when key turned to on position? fuel relay?
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1990 chevy silverado 4x4... My truck stumbles when you start it and within 5 seconds or so clears up and runs smooth.. I changed the fuel filter , still the same result.
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I have a 97 Chevy K1500 truck that i have been having problem with starting. Sometimes it will start. When it does the idle is rough. When i put in in gear it almost acts like it will shut off. Then it comes back and it drives fine. If it shut it off it may or may not start. I had the distributor cap a rotor replaced. Then I replaced the spark plugs and wires. Still does not start. It seems like it is getting too much fuel. I pulled the fuel pump relay and the truck would start then die out. When i put the relay back in truck does not start. I am not sure what might be the next piece to look at. I was thinking the MAP sensor or the throttle position sensor. So far i have not had any codes come up.
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My truck hasn't run for over a year and no one seems to be able to tell me why. The fuel pump supposedly has 10 lbs of pressure, it has new fuel pump relay, new throttle body, and probably more new things (can't remember exactly). It will start up normally and then it will act like it's not getting fuel and within seconds die. If I keep my foot on the gas and kind of pump it (I know it's EFI) it will try to keep running, but will die, and it really gets rough toward the end like the whole engine's going to fall out. The truck has 300K+ on it but the engine was replaced about 10,000 miles ago. It still has a lot of original equipment.
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Sometimes I turn the key and nothing happens except the lights come on but nothing happens. Then if I press the brakes, move the gear shift from park to neutral and back it might start. Sometimes I have to repeat the process a few times and twice I was stranded! If it starts then something unusual happens if I am going in reverse and turning the steering wheel sharply to the right the is a loud grinding, whining sound. It's not like the sound of a whining power steering noise.
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After my truck sits overnight it starts immediately and goes to fast idle for a few seconds, then ithe idle starts dropping until it gets to approx. 400 RPM.If I drive off immediately it will correct itself in a short while, otherwise I need to baby the engine speed until it runs on its own - usually five minutes.I cleaned the MAF and performed a MAF tap test with no success.
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Truck has 190,000 miles. First, every now and then the truck won't start. Turn the ignition key to the start position and nothing happens - like the battery is dead. Turn the key back to the off position, wait maybe 10 - 15 sec. Try and start again - starts right up. This maybe happens about half the time I start the truck. Always seems to start first start attempt of the day. Only later does it start to behave this way.
I took it into a repair shop and they claimed it was the starter relay. After the repair (about two weeks) it seemed fixed - started all the time. Then a couple of days ago it began to do the same thing again. Only now, maybe 10 - 20% of the time doesn't want to crank (vice 50% or more before the repair). Doesn't seem to be the battery because when it cranks it cranks very strong and starts right up.
Now additionally, today, the truck just dies while driving. Doesn't stall or run rough just before dying - just dies - like turning the ignition switch to off. Interestingly, it starts right back up after this - no extended cranking, etc., just starts right up. I have tried "jiggling" the start switch to see if maybe it is failing, but it has no effect. That is, when the truck won't crank, "jiggling" the switch won't make it crank, and "jiggling" the switch while the truck is running doesn't cause it to die. Sometimes, the waiting 10 -15 secs or so between crank attempts doesn't work - that is, it doesn't crank, but if I open up the hood and take the starter relay out of its socket and put it back in, it cranks.
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My 1997 chevy suburban wouldn't start after being parked for a few days. the battery seemed to drained out so quickly and not because the lights were left on. The alternator was replaced less than two years ago. and the battery less than a year ago. I tried to jump start but it did now turn orver. What is the problem?
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I have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
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I got this truck from my step father, drove it from mississippi to washington (state) with minor problems. It's been sitting in my driveway for the last 6 months and I probably drive it once a week. I loaned it to my sister-in-law and she drove it for a couple of days with no problems. She went out one morning to take it and it wouldn't start, just cranked it for a few minutes and gave up. To make a long story even longer, I though it was fuel so I checked the pump, changed the filter, drained some fuel thinking water might have gotten in, ... to no success. I then started looking at electrical. Spark was getting to at least one plug. Pulled the distributor cap and cleaned it all up, replaced all the plug wires, and then tried starting it with the same results. (Oh, by the way, no check engine light so I assume no codes).
This goes on for a couple of weeks as it's in the driveway and I only pop the hood when it's not raining (we live just outside of Seattle). The other day I have the hood open, my wife decides to check on me since she thinks I'm talking to God and is wondering why I would use that kind of language when address a diety. I ask her to jump in and crank it while I pull a plug wire to see if I'm getting spark....again. Low and behold, the truck starts right up. I jump in to see if it's throwing a code and nothing. The thing is running great. I did notice that there is a ticking coming from the engine compartment and I realize the plug wire is still disconnected so I turn it off (with much hesitation) connect the wire, go back inside to start it and the thing won't start. I'm a private pilot and they say, if you're flying along and you do something and the engine stops, undo what you just did. So, I go back out, unplug the spark plug wire, and the thing starts right up. So, I start thinking, try another plug wire. I reconnect it, try another, and it won't start. So, what I figure is that it will only run when the second to the front cylinder plug wire on the drivers side on the engine is disconnected.
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My 2009 Silverado 1500 with only 12,000 miles has begun intermittent display of all warning lights that are normally seen at start up. They stay on for 2-3 seconds and all gauges drop to -0-. When the warning lights go off, the gauges return to normal. It is not as prevalent after engine reaches normal operating temperature.
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My 2004 Chevrolet Siverado's steering box seems to leak. It was adressed at one point but then just seemed to leak all over my driveway, it sits alot. It also make a loud winding sound when it first starts in cold weather then goes away when warmed up? Finally the oil pressure gauge is pinned passed 80 psi. just gauge?
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My car has started to on occasion not have any power when I turn key. I can try it several times and then poof, the power is there and it stars with no trouble. When I say no power, there is nothing, no dash lights no sound, Absolutely nothing!
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I have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
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My battery was drained two nights ago, I jumped started it fine. However, the last two days, the truck has been hard to start, and battery seems low, even though the vehicle has been driven plenty. Today a new problem as arose, with the AC climate control. Driver side vents blow out very Hot Air, and Passenger Side blows out very cold Air. The setting on the digital climate control system says 60 F on both sides. Its possible the AC was on when the truck was jump started.
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My 98 Chrysler sebring has a fast idle at about 1500, occasionally dies but will restart, and has been making the garage smell like gas. Can't seem to figure out the problem.
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts (sorry, not to up on my car lingo here lol)
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts...
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
I would like to have some knowledge or information in case I have to take it to a mechanic to have it looked at. The last people (Just Breaks) I took it to really tried to screw me over. After they worked on it the Emergency break light was on and his fix was to just "unplug" the sensor. I said Heck no! Fix it! after three bleeds it tripped the sensor off. So I am a bit hesitant to have them looked at after that experience.
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Car: 1993 Chevy C 1500 (2WD) manual transmission Background: The car sat unused in a garage for 2 weeks (no problems before this) the first drive after its break, the pickup almost felt like it was slipping and power was not getting to the wheels. The vibrating began the next day. The vibrating is very obvious and unpleasant under acceleration at approximately 2000 RPMs in any gear. Grease was injected via grease zerk into the center carrier bearing area and the vibrating was marginally better. Today the back end of the truck was lifted up and put into gear and brought up to 30 MPH. The pickup was then lowered and a test drive revealed that the vibrating was considerably diminished.
An inspection of the drive shaft reveals:no vibrating in neutral the U-joints are not loose or leaking; the drive shaft has 2 small dents which are countered on the opposite side by weights;the drive shaft will move up and down ~1 inch or less if pushed in bench press fashion near the carrier bearing;the drive shaft does not move in the direction of the length of the vehicle;the drive shaft will rotate freely 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn before it is stopped by the back of the transmission or the rear differential; no mud clods in wheel wells;new tires properly inflated.
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