Chevrolet - 1500 :: Repeated Fan Blower Resistor Failure
Oct 2, 2011
I have installed my 6th resistor and they continue to burn up, leaving #5 only.
View 4 RepliesI have installed my 6th resistor and they continue to burn up, leaving #5 only.
View 4 RepliesI have a 1999 Chevy Suburban. The blower fan for the heater/AC was only working on high so I replaced the resistor and relay at the same time. Still no change so I replaced the switch and 30 amp fuse. The first three settings worked but not the high. I checked continuity of the wires between the switch and relay and they were fine. I then thought it might be the blower fan which I replaced but still not working on high.
View 4 RepliesFront blower resistor going bad over and over? I've replaced it 4 times and it will last a few months. Then the van comes back with high blow only. There is an electrical component built into the resistor that has failed every time. I don't know if this is built-in fusible link or what. I've measured the resistance on a new one, which was basically 0 ohms, so I doubt it's a resistor, and can't be a capacitor. I've been wondering if the blower motor is drawing too much juice ( never blown the fuse ). How many amps the blower should draw. This is on a 2001 Grand Caravan Sport w/ rear ac.
View 14 RepliesI replaced the blower motor and the resistor. I just replaced the resistor again only after only a couple weeks. I noticed that two resistor plug wires (orange and black) were burnt. what can be done to fit this problem.
View 1 RepliesSeveral years ago I had to replace the fuel pump - truck had about 100,000 miles. Within the last 4 - 5 months I have replaced the fuel pump twice and just today (about two months since the last replacement), the fuel pump has failed again. That has been the pattern now for the last several months. I have had the work done by one of the reputable car repair shops in town - they have also done work on my 2004 Impala with no issues with the repair. There must be something else going on besides just the fuel pump going bad. What would cause so many fuel pump failures.
View 16 RepliesWe are in need of a 4th clutch for our 2004 Elantra. This is a despicable record for Hyundai.
View 14 RepliesIm out of options, the guy who usually scans my car for me is nowhere to be found. I changed the blower resistor and the blower still does not stay consistently on. My next guess is a bad relay somewhere.
View 12 RepliesWhere blower resistor is located?
View 6 RepliesIn 13 months my 1991 Dodge Grand Caravan has managed to kill 4 transmission control modules -- the original plus three factory replacements. The first replacement (by a Dodge garage) failed within weeks, after which they threw up their hands in despair (never recognizing the defective part) and sent me to an electrical specialist. The specialist's first replacement survived until April; their 2nd has just died. I find it hard to accept that all of these TCMs were simply defective.
View 4 RepliesGot this 04 Escape 3.0 FWD for my son's first car. It was his mom's and she drove it for years and parked it when she got another car.
I charged the battery and it is holding a good charge. Car would crank but not start. Fuel pump was not coming on. I pulled it out and applied 12V to the connector terminal and it started running so I put it back in and it worked fine.
Drove it home and cleaned it up, pulled out the bad window regulator, put it in the driveway till the next weekend.
After it sat for 3 days it would not start again. The fuel pump was not coming on. I assumed that the old pump that I revived had died again so I bought a new one and put it in and it ran fine.
Went for inspection but OBD2 was NOT READY so I drove it about 60 miles until it threw 3 codes. P0136, P2270, P2271 (O2 sensor problem).
I parked it again to wait till my next chance to work on it. 3 days later I was going to replace the O2 sensor but when I tried to start it the new fuel pump was not coming on again. (2nd fuel pump to die while sitting in the driveway).
So I figured the new fuel pump was a dud maybe, so I returned it and got another new one and put it in and it worked fine again. So I replaced the O2 sensor. Didn't have time to drive it 60 miles again to READY the OBD2 system for inspection so I parked it for a couple more days.
2 days later I was going to drive it around to make the OBD2 READY for inspection and again the fuel pump does not come on.
3 dead fuel pumps doesn't make sense to me so I have been considering it could be the Fuel Pump Driver Module but have read that's not an issue on the Escape like it is on the trucks. Plus I have been unable to locate where it is on this vehicle.
2000 Alero. Wife reported to me she had no blower motor. I pulled the motor and it tested good. Next I replaced the resistor with one from auto zone. Now I have blower in all but the 5th and highest position. I suspect a bad new resistor but I left it for now because it's a pain to remove.
Could I have got a bad resistor? In my experience a bad resistor will give you high and nothing else.
Ok, I've read about the blower motor resistor, and everyone says you should have HIGH speed on the fan.
2002 Excursion with digital display.
I turn the truck on, then turn on the blower. A small puff of air comes out then shuts off completely. I can hear the direction doors opening when i change between foot and face A/C.
Is this the blower resistor that needs changing?
I have a 1993 Dodge Grand Caravan with about 160,000 miles on it. The front end has been deteriorating steadily for some time now. I have no power brakes or power steering, but I do not think that this is related to my REAL problem: My driver side CV joint (or axle or whatever) failed last week. Upon inspection, my mechanic commented on how he was surprised that it held on long enough for me to get to his shop. It was replaced by a mechanic with a new (not re-manufactured) piece.Yesterday I was driving a friend to the airport about 150 miles away, and 20 miles out of town, my van began wobbling in the front, and then shaking violently - consistent with my previous CV failure.
After dropping my friend off at the airport, I proceeded to the nearest mechanic, who again commented on how he was surprised that I was able to make it to his shop. He said something about the last CV joint being too long or something against a tulip joint (or something, I should have written it down).Initially it drove smoothly, as it did after the first fix, but on the way home I noticed a slight wobble that is connected to acceleration (that is, when I take my foot off of the gas, the wobble disappears). I am concerned that the CV is going to fail again. What would be causing this? Are the mechanics at fault, or is there another problem that propagates in the CV?
I've got an '03 Accent 1.6 in the family. December 2011 I replaced the crank position sensor and it cured the no start problem. Got it from A/Zone. It lasted 2 years and 8 months. Then, the same thing happened again in August 2014 only this time the car stopped running while on the road and I had it towed to a local garage. They installed a "Standard" & was back on the road again when it stopped running again a week ago. Had it towed to my house this time and read the code. P0336 CPS again! That sensor lasted only 4 months. The garage came & replaced the sensor & it's back on the road...for now. Do these cars only play nice with Hyundai CPS's or should I be looking for an underlying issue?
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 pontiac grand prix gt. I read some where that some of these have the resistor and blower motor close together and that the molding or rubber that runs at the bottom of the windshield after time will leak water into the blower motor and resistor and cause a short. I believe this has been the cause of a lot of my issues with car shorting out. the other day had to have it towed for the first time in its 11 years and found out it was one of the j fuses arcing causing the car not to start.
It's already 267,000 miles.
I'm looking for information and possible photo location for the blower motor resistor. My truck has climate control. I've looked under the dash on the passenger side and behind the glove box door and I've been unable to spot the location. Do I have to remove the plastic panel behind the glove box?
View 6 RepliesHave a 2009 platinum, 5.4, supercrew with dualzone heating and air. The blower motor resistor block is overheating and melting the connector block. fooled with it way too much, and then put a new resistor and pigtail in it. The new resistor would kick out in about 30 seconds, so used the old resistor on the new pigtail, got hot, melted the new pigtail. What is causing the resistor block to get so hot, and what do I do about it?
View 7 RepliesI parked my 2003 f150 about 8wks ago, and at that time the blower had been running only on high then not at all, then only on high again.
As I need it to pull the boat up north next week, I purchased and changed the resistor. When I started it up the blower motor wouldn't run and eventually it started to smoke, so I pulled the wire connector to the motor.
Where I can find a procedure for motor testing, and removal as I think this is probably where I'm headed with this. There seems to be utube videos on everything else but not this. I may just have to go out and purchase a Hains or Chilton manual but I'm Scottish and always look for the free route first.
2003 Limited explorer 237k with auto climate controls. 95 degrees out and a/c on when fan speed began going up and down a few times and then completely off. Won't work on heating as well. Rear fan works fine so I changed the resistor but still nothing. The control lights up when changed as usual but no fan. What to change next?
View 7 RepliesBought my 2000 X from a guy a week or so ago, and am now fixing all of its little "quirks". A/C blower would only blow on high, diagnosed it as a faulty blower motor resistor and got a new one. Pulled the old one out and the wiring plug that plugs into it is fried!! 3 of the plugs are stuck in it from the resister itself and there is obvious signs of shorting. What my next step should be? Im considering getting a new plug and splicing the wires back into it, but that just ignores the obvious shorting. How to fix the short?
View 3 Replies2002 Dodge Ram 3500 van (engine unknown, but I think it doesn't matter). Blower operate only at highest speed setting. OK, that's the classic symptom of a failed resistor. Replacements are readily available at chain parts stores.
Where is the resistor located? This video shows me for a 2002 Ram 1500 van. Will it be the same on the 3500?
I've learned here that sometimes resistor failure results from bearings going bad in the blower, causing excessive current draw. Is there a way to test that other than with an ammeter? What's the correct current?
2a. If the blower motor is going bad, is that something we'll be able to replace ourselves? (Yes, I should tell them to get a Haynes or Chilton.) I don't like the idea of taking off dashboard panels.
2b. Is there any other "prime cause" I should look for if the blower motor seems OK?
Are there any other parts (other than the switch) whose failure would also give that symptom?