1992 WT pick up 263,000 miles had new head gasket installed valves lapped and tune up it was doing it before and does get better when truck warms up, but still can hesitate at times. When cold you have to feather gas pedal to truck accelerating, you can hear truck motor pop through throttle body but will continue to speed up.
View 2 RepliesSo I used my 2000 silverado 1500 to remove a willow trunk from my yard. 4 Lo, took a bit of work but I tried not to overdo it. Now, truck sputters when accelerating. Once it gets going it's good but the startup is sputtery and bucks a little. What did I do?
View 1 RepliesSix months ago we purchased a '91 Chevy Pickup and 3 months ago the truck started to "sneeze". Sometimes while accelerating the truck makes a "toot" noise from in front of the driver under the hood, and with the noise I have a momentary loss of RPMs. This can happen a number of times in a row, making pulling out on to busy streets difficult and dangerous. Most of the time, I take my foot completely off the gas and then re-apply it, and the issue goes away. It happens both with a cold engine and a warm/hot engine. This problem started when it was cold out (around 10 degrees Fahrenheit) and the mechanic I talked to about it thought it was the E10 87 gas I was putting in.
I switched to a 97 octane/no-ethenol fuel and the problem went away, until about a week ago when our temperatures finally broke 50 consistently. The problem is back and with it is a minor fluctuation of RPM when idling in neutral. The truck also created a new symptom, I was driving at about 50mph and the truck acted like it slipped on ice... I had evened out my speed and the truck seemed to start coasting then got back to driving at speed, it jerked the whole truck, like driving over a patch of ice. I don't know if it has anything to do with the original problem but all symptoms may be the same thing....
The truck is a 91 Chevy 1500K, 5.7L V8 and has 74,000 miles (mostly highway towing). It had been sitting 2 years, not really being used, before we bought it. We had the fuel injection system cleaned when they did the oil change, right after we purchased the vehicle.
My 02 silverado has started making a bubbling sound when I accelerate. The sound is coming from under the passenger side dash.
View 2 RepliesJust got a 1990 k1500 with the 4.3 v6 and 5 speed and it backfires. A buddy told me it was shooting flames out of my exhaust. What does that mean?
View 7 RepliesMy 1990 Chevy Silverado with 5.0 liter, 45k miles has started a problem that the guys in my diesel repair shop don't know what to do. Last week it started to run rough, hesitating and lurching and not accelerating smoothly. It idles fine, or pretty well, but just doesn't run smoothly with any kind of acceleration. I drive it back and forth to work just 1.5 miles during the week. I took it on vacation a week before, so it's not from lack of long trips, it ran fine.
A guy at my diesel repair shop put it on his Genesis scope and all it would code is the O2 sensor showed lean, but we could see it switching from rich to lean and so on. I thought vacuum leak, but couldn't find one. PCV valve is good. EGR valve is ok. I changed the fuel filter yesterday and thought it ran a little better, but now has gone back to the rough running. What I can do myself to diagnose this? I do have all the tools and shop.
I have a '96 Chevy Silverado that twice (in about as many months) has had some trouble starting. When I turn the key the engine starts to crank, then there is a loud pop and the engine stops. When I crank it again the engine will start, although more slowly than usual. What could be wrong?
View 19 RepliesMy 1995 chevy c1500 cuts out at idle or the moment the brakes are applied to shift into drive. I replaced the passenger wheel cylinder and bled the brakes and it ran fine for a few hours, then the idle problem stated again. I have check the map senor and a few other electronic component as my mechanic said the problem " might be electrical."
View 6 Replies1990 chevy silverado 4x4... My truck stumbles when you start it and within 5 seconds or so clears up and runs smooth.. I changed the fuel filter , still the same result.
View 1 Repliesi have a 1982 chevy 1500 4x4 with a 700R4 and it has never give me any problems at all has always shifted firm and smooth goes instantly in to drive and reverse. One day last week i got in and the truck will not shift in to second actually wont come out of first the reverse still works fine and the first is still fine it does not slip or hesitate at all. I pulled the gear cover off and can spin it!
View 8 RepliesMy truck hasn't run for over a year and no one seems to be able to tell me why. The fuel pump supposedly has 10 lbs of pressure, it has new fuel pump relay, new throttle body, and probably more new things (can't remember exactly). It will start up normally and then it will act like it's not getting fuel and within seconds die. If I keep my foot on the gas and kind of pump it (I know it's EFI) it will try to keep running, but will die, and it really gets rough toward the end like the whole engine's going to fall out. The truck has 300K+ on it but the engine was replaced about 10,000 miles ago. It still has a lot of original equipment.
View 14 RepliesMy truck just recently started to vibrate like it is going over rumble strips. It only happens over 40MPH and sporadically. It seems to happen when I'm just giving enough gas to maintain speed. Once it starts if I let off the gas or give it more gas it goes away. It reoccurs anywhere from 20 seconds up to a few minutes. I'm afraid my tire is going to fly off or my drive shaft is going to drop. There is no unusual noises or thuds if I go on and off the gas and the universal joints seem tight, and there is no vibrations from on steering wheel.
View 10 Replies1991 chevy silverado 1500 4.3 ... Cruising at 55 down highway truck died for 2-3 seconds only to refire itself. After doing so for a few days it wouldn't start at all. Changed fuel pump,fuel filter and all spark plugs. Now runs fine until I shut it off briefly. Then it stalls on me on 3rd,4th and 5th gears. Bucks badly. Is it a fuel issue or something to do with starting it while it's warm. Also it runs good with the check light ON. Soon as it goes off it starts shutting off and refiring itself when I give it gas.
View 1 RepliesI got a 2000 f250, 5.4l, I got a check engine light bout 2 weeks ago and didn't experience any driving issues. The code was p0171, just recently I've been experience troubles idling, if I let my truck idle for about 3 minutes it will want to shut off, also on acceleration the hole truck bumps, feels like I'm in an earthquake. Where I should start with this problem?
View 11 RepliesSeveral years ago I had to replace the fuel pump - truck had about 100,000 miles. Within the last 4 - 5 months I have replaced the fuel pump twice and just today (about two months since the last replacement), the fuel pump has failed again. That has been the pattern now for the last several months. I have had the work done by one of the reputable car repair shops in town - they have also done work on my 2004 Impala with no issues with the repair. There must be something else going on besides just the fuel pump going bad. What would cause so many fuel pump failures.
View 16 RepliesI have a 1998 Chevy K1500 4x4 which is experiencing issues on two fronts: brakes and general operation.
For the brakes, over the last couple years, we have replaced just about every part of the system, including - master cylinder - calipers - brake lines. In addition, in the last week, I worked with a local mechanic to bleed the lines and he turned the rotors as well. The result is that while the truck does stop, the pedal height is still really high and feels like there's no pressure until the pedal's nearly to the floor. I get the feeling that if I needed to stop abruptly or at a higher speed than 35mph, I wouldn't be able to. I'm not sure what needs to happen next.
As to the general operation: the first time I start the truck on any given day, it fires up and runs smoothly. If I take it across town, however, and put it in the park, it gasps, sputters, and dies. It is then very difficult to get the vehicle to start again--usually, I have to push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and grind the starter until the engine turns over. After that, I have to keep my foot on the accelerator for 15-30 seconds at around 3000 RPM as the truck shudders and lurches, until it smooths out. Once I put it into drive or reverse, however, it dies, unless I am quick to push the accelerator again. Until recently, the truck had only been driven four times in the last two years or so. So far, I have: - replaced the air filter - added fresh gas (to the old) - added an engine treatment (Sea-Foam) Everything I have done is stuff that needs to be taken care of anyway, and I want to take care of all the little things before I take it to a dealership to have a full diagnostic run on it. I also plan to have an oil change done on it this week.
I recently picked up a 2000 Excursion with the 5.4 V8. Engine has 150,000. I got it cheap because it has a surging problem over 1500 RPM. This problem is intermittent.
I have 1 DTC. P1000 which is OBDII checks not complete. I cannot clear this even using the factory procedures. FYI..I have a snap on solus scanner. I think this is a voltage problem, If you try to start the engine with the scanner plugged in, the scanner shuts off, so I'm thinking the PCM loses battery power supply when the starter engages, resetting the PCM.
This problem is NOT a miss.... something isn't opening or shutting off above 1500 RPM. This truck doesn't have an EGR system, it has the EVAP system. This may be the problem, thats why I'm here. OK. heres a list of what I've replaced since I started working on it.
Engine oil and filter
air filter
fuel filter
8 COP's
8 plugs gapped properly
cam position sensor
IAC sensor
MAF sensor
Removed throttle body and cleaned.
Vacuum checks. 22" at purge valve,fuel dia, and vacuum canister
Checking with the scanner at 1500 RPM with problem
SFtrim1% bounces between5-15
SFtrim2% bounces between2-0
LFtrim1% bounces between11-13
LFtrim2% bounces between 5-6
O2S11(mv) bounces between 200-781
O2S21(mv) bounces between 200-800
Ssystem is in closed loop holding throttle at 1500 RPM... Note engine surges when at the RPM or above. I'm thinking the engine is lean, not sure how to read the trim numbers...
Idle is fine ... Problem is intermittent ... Also noticed that engine will only advance spark to 30 degrees @2000 RPM during this problem. I have seen it advance to 38-40 degrees when I do not have this problem, so I kind of understand the power loss,knock etc due to the timing, my question is whats causing it to do this?
EVAP question.... The purge valve should open according to PCM command a certain value, correct? I can monitor the duty cycle % but cannot activate and check proper duty cycle through scanner . When I try to I get an error message of module error -unspecified.
Disconnected hoses at purge valve,Full manifold vacumn on one, nothing on other, no flow through purge valve, but scanner shows 30% duty cycle. I would think the should be a little flow at 30% Maybe my problem? Troubleshoot procedure for the EVAP would be good.
I'm noticing just the slightest 'hitch' in power delivery in second gear at about 1,500 rpm. My speculation is that this is the torque converter locking up.
View 14 RepliesI've only owned a 6.0 for about 10 months now. I have a 2005 SCab FX4 with 125,000 miles on it. It has an Airaid cold air intake and MBRP exhaust without a muffler, everything else is stock. The stuttering/hesitation starts at about 1500 rpm, is worst at 1600rpm and seem so to go away at 2000rpm. It also seems to hesitate when I barely press the gas pedal while driving. Based on other fuel issues with other vehicles, I would assume this is a fuel problem, but am not well versed in the 6.0 engines. Fuel filters were said to be good by the dealership about 10,000 miles ago. EGR valve was replaced last week. I'm not blowing smoke of any color, even at WOT. I was thinking an injector may be the issue, but I show no other symptoms besides the hesitation/vibration. I don't feel any lack of power when I give it full throttle. I would like to know a definitive way to diagnose the problem without going to the stealership.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2004 Phaeton V8 whose engine makes a noise which just shouldn't be there. I occurs if you accelerate the engine (also when the car is not moving) at about 1500 rpm. VW dealer says its okay.
View 8 RepliesI have a 1997 dodge ram 1500 4x4 with the 318ci engine. 140,000 miles. Fall 2009 I replaced the CAT (old one had broken loose and was rattling around inside) and both o2 sensors. A few months later, when I'd start the truck cold it would idle fine then as it warmed at idle it would run rough almost quit then idle up and run fine all by itself. When started warm it would idle fine then hesitate while acclerating a few times then run fine. No check engine light. Now, about 10 months later check engine light is on (P0138 o2 circuit high voltage bank 1 sensor 2). I have put about 5,000 miles on the new CAT. I checked the wires and connections for damage and found none. Also, new cap,rotor,plugs and wires.
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