Chevrolet - 1500 :: Heater Display / Location Of Air Flow / Temp / Fan Flickers And Changes On Its Own
Oct 19, 2012
Chevy Silverado.. The display of heat, location of air flow, temperature and fan flickers and changes on its own. Sometimes it works fine and blows out nice warm air. Other times it goes out completely and I have no control over any of it. It will just blow cold air. If I turn the head lights on it sometimes makes it go out completely. I have had the relay switch changed out and that was not the problem.
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I have a 2012 Crew cab Silverado 5.3 V8 with the towing package. When I pull my travel trailer (approx. 5000 lbs), the water temp stays 1/2 guage and the tranny temp is 170-190, however, on steep hills the water temp guage goes 2/3 to 3/4 guage for a short time and the tranny temp reaches 200-210 degrees. Is the elevated water and tranny temps okay or should I try to reduce them back to the normal range. What is the max temp I should keep the tranny at?
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2010 camry 4 cylinder, Heater/ac air flow control not working. Only blows air to defroster which it has no temp control.
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Does a 1990 chevy truck have a fuel regulator, 5.7 efi? if so where is it located?
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I have an 88 Chevy C1500. It started showing low oil pressure about a year ago and I went with a heavier oil and oil pressure go a bit better.
Just changed the oil and now, when I start the engine cold, I show normal oil pressure. As the engine temp increases, the oil pressure goes down. When engine is fully warm, oil pressure shows 0 and "check gauges" light comes on.
Decided to put even heavier oil in but guy at parts house said it was probably the sending unit, not a worn out engine. I tend to agree because I drove it more and never hear any ticking or valve noise. Too cheap to replace the sending unit.
From the symptoms above, does thus sound right? Could the sensor somehow fail as engine temperature increases? Everything I read says oil pump failure is very rare.
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My 2009 Silverado 1500 with only 12,000 miles has begun intermittent display of all warning lights that are normally seen at start up. They stay on for 2-3 seconds and all gauges drop to -0-. When the warning lights go off, the gauges return to normal. It is not as prevalent after engine reaches normal operating temperature.
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I have a 1992 Chevy 1500 5.7L V8 with 167,000 miles that is running hot. When I drive the vehicle the temperature quickly rises to just about 250 degrees and hovers just under the "red" zone. It never fully overheats, even on longer drives (50+ miles). It seem to run just fine otherwise. It is not leaking coolant and I have not had to fill the radiator. My first thought was that the thermostat was bad, but wouldn't that be an "all or nothing" issue? Where should I start looking for the problem? It has been going on for about 3 weeks, and I want to get it resolved quickly.
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I have a 201o Prius with the stock stereo (no nav system). When it's hot outside (100deg+ F) and I get into the car, often the stereo display will flash and the unit is inoperable. Then, all the CDs are ejected. After I turn on the AC and the interior cools down, I can press the power button on the stereo and it comes back to life.
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Does the prius c heater work if we set inside temp higher than outside temp ?(Difference is 2 or 3 degrees ). Is the heater take more energy than AC ?
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My 2002 Chevy Tracker recently has been running poorly after consuming a 1/4 tank of gas. The check engine light comes on the scan tool reports P0171 and P0174 bank 1 and 2 lean(it's a 2.5 liter V-6). If I remove and replace the gas cap it runs better but not perfect. Once I use another 1/4 tank the symptoms return. I have noticed the cap is hard to remove lately. This has been going on for two weeks It's been to 2 garages one of them told me my catalytic converters are plugged up and wanted 2500 to fix .
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2009 accent, cant find its location. Picture would be nice...
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Oil leak.... I can not locate the MAF sensor in my 2012 gls 2.4l sonata. I followed from the front tube intake through the air box to the throttle body and i do not see one. I also have the service manual and no mention of said sensor!
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I have a 2001 Lincoln Towncar with 122k on it. The heater went out this winter and I took it to a guy that replace the blower motor. The blower was not the problem. He then replaced the main control unit in the dash. That made the blower work on all speeds as I can hear it running. The problem is, there is NO air movement from any of the vents on any settings. When switched to def, vent, heat I can hear it switching but nothing happens and I have a complete lack of airflow. I looked for a filter on the firewall that may be blocked and it appears to be missing, or this car doesn't require one?
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On my 2006 The air flow from the heater always comes from the dash vents no matter where the control is set. What is needed to correct this?
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I have a 2001 Honda CR-V SE, and I'm having a little trouble with it ... About a week ago I noticed that as I was driving around the city, my temp gauge was going up and down. I had the heat on, and when I was pressing the gas, the gauge would go down. When I coasted, the gauge would go back up to the middle. The gauge never went higher than the halfway point. I thought it was possible that my fluids were low, so I checked the coolant reservoir. It was empty, so I added some. The radiator itself was full to the lip (like the manual says it should be, if I interpreted it correctly). The first day or two, didn't notice anything, but then the gauge seemed to start falling again.
Anyhow, I decided to drive back to the big city to get it fixed, a 3 hr drive, last night. The car seemed to be operating fine. I did not have the heat on, but there was air flowing through the vents. The gauge started to creep downward, so I thought "Hey, let me hit that button that closes the vents" I did that, and the gauge creeped back up! Problem solved right? Negative! It was raining, so when that button was on too long, my windows got foggy. So that's how I spent the next two hours, button on, button off, then I finally just opened the windows to allow the air to circulate. In the meantime, I stopped for gas, allowed the car to idle for a while (no air/heat blowing at all) and the guage didn't move. It stayed in the middle.
Closer to the end of my trip the gauge started to creep upward, over the midpoint (The first time it's done that since this whole thing has started). Once off the highway, I turned the heat on that first notch, and the gauge went back down to normal.
At any rate, so it's Wednesday. I'm planning on getting the car to a shop on Friday, but in the meantime, I just wanted to get some info out there from the community. I'm pretty nervous about whats going to happen. I just had my car at an oil change place 5 days ago, and the guy didn't put the oil cap back on the engine, so I literally was driving for 3 days with oil spewing onto my hood (Checked the levels by the way and they were fine). The only way I would've known is that I opened the hood to check the coolant levels. I noticed the gauge issue last Wed, took it in for the oil change Friday (In which they said all my fluids were fine), checked the coolant Monday, and drove it 3hrs last night.
Are there any specific keywords I should mention to the mechanic for him/her to check?
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The heater on my 2001 ford F150 is not heating. The blower is working, the inlet hose is hot, the outlet hose is cold. Removal of hoses confirms that there is very limited flow through the heater core. I flushed it but got only minimal improvement. However when I back flush (reversing the flow through the core) the flow is great. Here's the question: Can I reverse the flow through the heater core on a permanent basis? It seems this would give the needed flow of hot fluid through the core to allow heating. Is there a problem with doing this?
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I have a 1997 Toyota Camry and recently the air flow from the heater has become stuck on the front vents. Regardless of what setting I turn the switch to (defrost, floor, etc.) it doesn't switch from the vents. It seemed to happen about the same time the thermostat died, which I had to replace (successfully I think).
I looked under the hood for a vacuum hose that might be disconnected (guessing) and under the dash for a wire that might have come loose or disconnected, but to no avail. I am guessing that some part on the heater has stopped working and needs replaced, but I haven't a clue as to which one...hopefully one that won't require pulling the dash off.
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Yesterday the temp was at 97F and the air conditioning shut down (air flow remained constant except temp from all vents went tropical). The car was moving at 70mph on level ground in light traffic and not in a city. Stopped and ran a few 'reboot cycles' (turning ignition on and off in three minute intervals with the key out of range) with no luck. The next day the air worked OK - not great - but it was working and the problem returned after one hour of operation. Am I describing a refrigerant level problem or are the electron gods just angry at me for driving in a heat wave?
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Okay, the vehicle is a 1988 E250 ClubWagon 7.3 IDI diesel with front and rear AC/heat. I have 3 questions for you:
1. I found that the rear heater core is getting coolant flow constantly which is making my rear AC blow 75* air. These models don't have a blend door in the back, they appear to have a valve that is only allows coolant flow to the rear heater core when the heat is turned on. Problem is that I can't seem to find where this valve is located on the van or what it is called to locate it at a parts store. Where on my van this valve is located?
2. My rear blower only functions on High. I know there is a resistor set up in the rear that controls the blower speed. Before I just replace this, is there a way that I can test it?
3. Is it possible that the Resistor setup for the rear fan speed would also be causing the rear coolant flow valve to not work? I know it's a long shot, but does the valve signal flow through it when the AC is on to tell the coolant valve to shut?
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No matter where I put the selector it blows out the floor, the defrosters and the air cond vents, which I have to keep closed. It doesn't switch the air flow anymore. What gives?
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Do I have to pull out the complete switch assembly, or could it be some thing else?
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