Chevrolet - 1500 :: Growling Noise Only Happens When Accelerate
Mar 28, 2011
My 1999 silverado growls in when it's in 4-Hi. It seems like it only happens when I accelerate. And it's only in 4WD, not 2WD. So I'm worried about the front differential, especially since I just got a bunch of seals replaced and read that problems with the front diff can make them go bad. Did the shop just ignore a likely problem? I just bought the thing last summer, so I'm not sure if the sound changed much over time. I do need front shocks, that doesn't seem related, does it?
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Mitsubishi Lancer, 2003, 140k miles, auto transmission. About a week ago, I noticed a new noise coming from the engine compartment. It's not very loud, only a little louder than regular road/engine noise. It starts up a second or two after I begin to accelerate, and it winds down a second or two behind the rate at which I slow to a stop. It is constant when I am traveling at speed. The sound is something between a whirring and a growling noise, almost exactly the sound you hear when knobby bicycle tires roll quickly over smooth pavement.
The transmission fluid was about a quart low, and that got filled up, but the noise hasn't changed or stopped since then. I haven't had any problems with shifting out of/into gear. The car does occasionally "slip" out of gear in that when I am traveling slowly (stuck in traffic, usually) and going back and forth between light acceleration, coasting, and braking, once in a while I'll press the gas and the engine will just rev, but it won't engage. If I just let off the pedal, it will "reset" and then it moves just fine. It's done that ever since I bought the car in 2009, and it doesn't do it all that often, and only at those low traffic jam type speeds. So, I don't know if it's related to the noise, which is what I'm more concerned about.
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I have a 4 cyl. '99 Chevy Malibu with 137K. Two weeks ago she started making a growling/rubbing noise coming from the front of the car. If I steer even a little to the right the noise goes away. If the steering wheel is straight or turned to the left the noise persists. The noise is always present, except when turning to the right and at when I slow to stop there becomes a slight oscillation in the noise.What is it? Is it hard to repair? I typically change my own brakes, alternator, tie-rods, and simpler car repair tasks.
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So 2 weeks ago I noticed that after 30 minutes of driving on the highway my steering wheel started making a loud growling noise and vibrating really hard! When I hit the brakes it got worse but got better as I slowed to 30 mph. It doesn't happen all the time and not right away, only after a while of driving and the dealership says without codes they can do nothing...
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I have a 2003 Camry 2.4 LE with 120k miles on it. It's been very well taken care of. As of now, here is the maintenance that has been completed at my dealership. By the way, I don't trust dealerships, but I do have one nearby that is actually beyond outstanding (and I know a little about cars):
- Regular oil changes, and always with 5W-30
- Radiator flush and thermostat replacement
- Tranny flush
- New front brakes, rear brakes cleaned, and lines flushed.
- Oil pan gasket replaced
- Valve cover gasket replaced
- Spark plugs replaced (at around 105k)
So, with this information being provided, here is my current problem. Lately, as I accelerate between 1500-2500 rpms, the engine has a louder than usual (but not too loud) groaning noise. Basically, the engine just sounds a tad louder than normal along with groaning noise. The engine also feels as though it is running kind of "dry" (if that makes any sense).
Now, above 2500 rpms, it's just fine. It's amazing on the highway, but I feel as though it has slightly lost acceleration in the city. The only issue with the car is the infamous greyish/blue smoke at startup, but that rarely happens and when it does, its a small amount of smoke, and it has never affected it's performance or gas mileage. Another thing is that I had to have that dreaded oil splash guard removed, because apparently the timing chain punctured it and it was about to fall off.
This problem has been recent within the last month. Just before this, the car has been on a roundtrip to Tucson from Tulsa, and Amarillo twice, complete with 32+mpg on the highway! So, what's wrong? Serptentine belt? PCV valve? Cam or something underneath the valve cover?
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My 02 silverado has started making a bubbling sound when I accelerate. The sound is coming from under the passenger side dash.
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Year: 1999Make: Chevrolet
Model: Silverado 1500 LS
Issue: Bad Transfer Case
Late model 99 Chevrolet Sliverado 4x4 with push button transfer case. At the end of last winter the transfer case began a grinding-noise when attempting to go from 2H to 4H.
I have a great mechanic who has proven both his skill and honesty to me a few times now. I took the truck in for diagnosis. His hope was that the electronic transfer may be faulty but unfortunately found metal shavings when he went to check the lubricant in the transfer case.
Diagnosis: Bad Transfer Case - Replacement necessary.
Mechanic has recommended a salvaged transfer case from reputable salvage dealer.
I have sourced a rebuilt transfer case with manufacturer warranties from a "major parts chain" for approximately 1/3 more cost.
My debate: The truck (while very late model), has a rebuilt engine that has less than 50k miles on the rebuild. I have expectations that I will continue to drive and maintain this truck for a very long time.
Although I am always aligned with less cost, my first response is that the rebuild from "major parts chain" is warrantied and far less likely to require a replacement in the remaining life of the vehicle.
However I am also uncertain how to evaluate the existing transmission. Presumably it has >100k. Is there a risk in pairing an OEM rebuilt transfer case with a transmission this old?
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What is causing this noise. When the rear of my truck goes over bumps it makes a rattle/clunking noise but I can't find where it is coming from. Here is a video of the noise. [URL] .....
chevrolet - silverado 1500
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Truck has 190,000 miles. First, every now and then the truck won't start. Turn the ignition key to the start position and nothing happens - like the battery is dead. Turn the key back to the off position, wait maybe 10 - 15 sec. Try and start again - starts right up. This maybe happens about half the time I start the truck. Always seems to start first start attempt of the day. Only later does it start to behave this way.
I took it into a repair shop and they claimed it was the starter relay. After the repair (about two weeks) it seemed fixed - started all the time. Then a couple of days ago it began to do the same thing again. Only now, maybe 10 - 20% of the time doesn't want to crank (vice 50% or more before the repair). Doesn't seem to be the battery because when it cranks it cranks very strong and starts right up.
Now additionally, today, the truck just dies while driving. Doesn't stall or run rough just before dying - just dies - like turning the ignition switch to off. Interestingly, it starts right back up after this - no extended cranking, etc., just starts right up. I have tried "jiggling" the start switch to see if maybe it is failing, but it has no effect. That is, when the truck won't crank, "jiggling" the switch won't make it crank, and "jiggling" the switch while the truck is running doesn't cause it to die. Sometimes, the waiting 10 -15 secs or so between crank attempts doesn't work - that is, it doesn't crank, but if I open up the hood and take the starter relay out of its socket and put it back in, it cranks.
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I have a 1995 4X4 Chevy Silverado. Well tonight the lower radiator hose came off, and all the coolant drained out while my wife was driving it around town. She noticed that the temp gauge spiked, and tried to get home. The truck stalled, was able to restart it for a moment, stalled again and now when we try to start it up there is a low spinning noise coming from the area around the starter. I think it might be the starter trying to engage the flywheel. My question is whether or not this could because the motor has seized, or is there another symptom that could potentially make this noise.
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1993 chevy silverardo ... There is a knocking noise coming from passenger side dash i turn the key on it starts tell maybe i get down the road, when i turn the truck off it knock for like 25 secs. I just got the truck didn't find out until I took it home.
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My question is what could cause a high idle?I have a 95 Chevy pickup 4x4 with a 5.7... Recently the lower radiator hose fell came off the radiator, dumping the liquids all over the street. The motor shut down, and every time we went to start it there would be a loud whining/spinning noise. We thought that the motor seized, so we pulled the plugs, turned the motor by the crank bolt.Turned out that the starter went bad, the spindle and bendex werent catching on the flywheel.
After examining the flywheel teeth, and gapping the plugs to the recommended manufacture gap, (they werent when we pulled them), we got a new starter installed. It started right up! But it ran at a high idle, around 1500-2000 RPM. I did not have a chance to really let it warm up (it was cold and raining). Now there is a gray flexhose that is running from the air filter housing down to the exhaust manifold. If i remember correctly, it was not seated very well when I took it off. Could it be causing too much of a vacuum?
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Six months ago we purchased a '91 Chevy Pickup and 3 months ago the truck started to "sneeze". Sometimes while accelerating the truck makes a "toot" noise from in front of the driver under the hood, and with the noise I have a momentary loss of RPMs. This can happen a number of times in a row, making pulling out on to busy streets difficult and dangerous. Most of the time, I take my foot completely off the gas and then re-apply it, and the issue goes away. It happens both with a cold engine and a warm/hot engine. This problem started when it was cold out (around 10 degrees Fahrenheit) and the mechanic I talked to about it thought it was the E10 87 gas I was putting in.
I switched to a 97 octane/no-ethenol fuel and the problem went away, until about a week ago when our temperatures finally broke 50 consistently. The problem is back and with it is a minor fluctuation of RPM when idling in neutral. The truck also created a new symptom, I was driving at about 50mph and the truck acted like it slipped on ice... I had evened out my speed and the truck seemed to start coasting then got back to driving at speed, it jerked the whole truck, like driving over a patch of ice. I don't know if it has anything to do with the original problem but all symptoms may be the same thing....
The truck is a 91 Chevy 1500K, 5.7L V8 and has 74,000 miles (mostly highway towing). It had been sitting 2 years, not really being used, before we bought it. We had the fuel injection system cleaned when they did the oil change, right after we purchased the vehicle.
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I am driving a 2001 S10 and it recently developed a clicking noise. Whenever I accelerate, the clicking noise increases respectively. I got home and looked under the hood and saw no fraying belts or anything out of the ordinary. Also, the clicking is not there when pushing the gas while in park.
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What is the embarrassing clickety sound my 2001 Tahoe makes when I accelerate with the AC on?
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I have 2011 Sonata Limited 2.4L I have a rattle that seems to come from the engine compartment near/thru the dash/driver area. I am getting pretty good at replicating the issue. When I accelerate or decelerate thru 1500 - 1700 rpm the rattel/vibration happens. If I can continue to keep the same rpm level the rattle remains. It tends to be even more frequent when the AC is on. I have had the dealer look at 2-3 times and they cannot seem to remedy the problem.
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I'm having a problem with my 2012 Mazda3 (automatic, non-skyactive model) that others seem to be complaining about on the online forums, but there seems to be no consensus.
About 10,000 miles into owning the car, it started making a sort of high-pitched gargling sound when I accelerate and the tachometer reads 1500-1900 RPMs. At first, the sound occurred sporadically when I was accelerating under these conditions, but now, at 28,000 miles, it's happening almost every time I accelerate between 1500-1900 RPMs. Here are a few more facts:
The engine must be warm. The car must be in drive (I cannot replicate it in neutral or park)The sound occurs regardless of whether the AC is on
I took it to the dealer 3 times. The first time, they changed the belt, and that worked for about 1000 miles. The second time, they told me that the noise is normal, and I should not worry. The third time, I took it to a different dealer, and they put a "dressing" on the belt. That worked for about 600 miles. Now the sound is back again, and it's driving me nuts. It definitely doesn't sound normal. If I test drove a car at 28,000 that made this sound, I definitely wouldn't buy it.
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I have a 97 chevy and the only way to start it is to jump the starter relay, not sure if it is the key switch ot the nuetral saftey switch.
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts (sorry, not to up on my car lingo here lol)
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts...
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
I would like to have some knowledge or information in case I have to take it to a mechanic to have it looked at. The last people (Just Breaks) I took it to really tried to screw me over. After they worked on it the Emergency break light was on and his fix was to just "unplug" the sensor. I said Heck no! Fix it! after three bleeds it tripped the sensor off. So I am a bit hesitant to have them looked at after that experience.
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Infrequently (once every couple weeks) my 2002 Suburban won't start. The starter seems to work properly as the engine tries to turn over and even seems to initially start for a fraction of a second but then dies. If I wait 10 to 30 minutes it will usually start without a problem. This problem does not seem to be related to outside temp, recent use or car position. After dealing with this occasionally inconvenient problem for months I took the car to a service shop and was told that if they could not reproduce the problem that trying to fix it would be a wild goose chase. When the problem occurred again I took it to another shop who kept the car for 3-4 days but was unable to reproduce the problem.
They suggested that there was a problem with the fuel pump but did not want to replace it unless they were sure that was the problem. I then spoke to the Chevy dealership shop who also said it was most likely the fuel pump. In my frustration dealing with this problem I took the car back to my local shop and ask them to replace the fuel pump ($800). Unfortunately, the intermittent problem has persisted and I'm not sure what to do next. I did have an after market remote ignition added a number of years ago and took it back to them to see if this could be related and they said no way. I have also wondered about the security system being a problem in that my rear hatch cargo door does not lock even though the other doors lock normally.
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