Chevrolet - 1500 :: Foam Blowing Out Of AC Vents
Aug 16, 2012
There are bits of foam blowing out of the ac vents on my chevy pickup. Took it to the shop. They checked it over and said that the AC is functioning properly no problems with the system. The foam they state is coming from the doors inside of the ac system and suggested that I ignore it. I looked closer inside the vents with a flashlight and I do believe they are correct from what I saw. It is messy as it is greasy if squished. I am wondering if try to use an air compressor to blow out the vents and remove as much of that junk as possible and was it very successful?
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Vehicle - 2005 Suburban LS, 5.3L V8; manual slide temp controls, separate controls for driver and passenger sides.Issue - In winter drive side vents will suddenly switch from blowing hot air to cold air. Just the opposite happens in the summer with drive side vents suddenly switching for blowing cold air to hot. Interestingly the passenger side vents operate normally. Sometimes if I stop and restart the vehicle the system will start working properly again but this does not always work.
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1991 Chevy 1500 pickup truck. The heater is ALWAYS on, no matter what I do. I suspect that some sort of mechanical controller or vent shut off device/air mixer is malfunctioning because I don't think the heat is actually coming from the heater core, I think it's just engine heat.
I pulled the fuse on the heater which turned off the blower and controls, but the heat is still coming out the vents, especially at highway speeds. So this leads me to believe that exterior air is pulling engine heat into the cab.
I don't know how I would even begin to fix this. I need a starting point. Where would I look for the vent or flap or whatever that mixes the cool air with the hot air? The AC hasn't worked since I bought the truck about 18 months ago.
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I have a 1996 Chevy K1500 that the AC just quit cooling. Compressor engages, and it shows a steady 37 on AC guage with no flux. Why it just blows hot air?
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My battery was drained two nights ago, I jumped started it fine. However, the last two days, the truck has been hard to start, and battery seems low, even though the vehicle has been driven plenty. Today a new problem as arose, with the AC climate control. Driver side vents blow out very Hot Air, and Passenger Side blows out very cold Air. The setting on the digital climate control system says 60 F on both sides. Its possible the AC was on when the truck was jump started.
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I've recently purchased a 2007 Prius and I just noticed few days go that A/C blows warm air (weather was fair when I bought it and I can't remember if it really worked or not then) and middle vents do not blow any air. I'm not sure if two problems are connected but I do want to get both fixed without spending $$$ at the dealership. Where can I start?
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I had my 2006 GX 470 in for 30k service last month. Cabin Filter was replaced.
Now with the temp set to 68 degrees, outside air on, the vent(AC off) blows hot air, usually when using the car first time in the day. Sometimes, after a while, cool air starts blowing in. I feel something changed after the service. If I set the temp to MAX Cold it blows cool air. I have had this car since 2006 and not seen this behavior.
Currently its cold in California so outside air should not be hot at all. I also experienced this when it was snowing outside, during our Reno trip.
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I have a 2003 Passat 4Motion wagon with the 2.8 VR6 motor. I am currently having an issue with the air conditioning / climatronic unit. In the summer when the A/C is on, if the car is stopped hot air blows out of the vents. As soon as I start moving the air is ice cold. I have checked the compressor, had it recharged and everything on that end looks good.
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Air blowing out of only one of the 2 middle AC vents? Are there individual fans for each vent and maybe one is broken or something like that?
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My 2001 E350 van's factory rear A/C is not working. Front A/C and heat is fine. Regardless of front control position for rear, heater stays on all the time unless I turn it off with the rear control. No air is blowing from the rear A/C vents, only from the rear heater vent. This isn't a big problem right now, but will soon be an issue. I use this van for my sales route, carrying a lot of temperature sensitive snack products. I don't have an owners manual, and the Haynes manual has no info at all regarding the rear A/C.
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I have a 97 chevy and the only way to start it is to jump the starter relay, not sure if it is the key switch ot the nuetral saftey switch.
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts (sorry, not to up on my car lingo here lol)
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts...
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
I would like to have some knowledge or information in case I have to take it to a mechanic to have it looked at. The last people (Just Breaks) I took it to really tried to screw me over. After they worked on it the Emergency break light was on and his fix was to just "unplug" the sensor. I said Heck no! Fix it! after three bleeds it tripped the sensor off. So I am a bit hesitant to have them looked at after that experience.
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We got our first taste of fall weather in Houston this weekend, and with it I've discovered a new problem with my truck. After the engine was up to temp, I noticed that the heater would blow cold air any time I sat at idle. If you rev up the rpm's to 1500-2000, you can feel the air start to get warm again. I'm guessing this means my heater core needs to be backflushed.
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After long day/night on call, get into 2005 Camry XLE 2.4L and it is blowing hot air out of vents unless I select max AC where it blasts so much cold air I cant stand it. Brand new issue and had no other indications of any issues. No engine light on and vehicle appears to be operating normally.
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I recently purchased a 2010 Toyota Corolla. Over all good car and in pretty decent shape. The Only only issue I've found with it is the two center air vents are not blowing, nor does the a/c knob change the air flow. For example regardless of what air setting I have it on it's always the two foot vents and the outer door vents blowing. Granted the air temp is fine. It responds to whatever temp I want it and it gets plenty cold.
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I have a '06 Toyota Highlander that blows hot air from the vents when the controls are in the following positions:
- Temperature anywhere in the cool to cold range
- Fan on at any speed
- Diverter in any position
- A/C OFF.
The air comes out hot after I make a sharp turn in either direction. If I turn the fan off I get fresh, cool air from the vents regardless of the turns.
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I took my Enclave in to get the rack and pinion steering change out for a new one, which was about two weeks ago. I've had the car back for about a week, and the day before yesterday, the air stopped blowing out of my top vents, and only comes out of the bottom. Do you think this problem is related to the recent repair, or do you think it's completely unrelated. What the problem could be?
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My mother's 2000 E150 van isn't blowing any air out of the vents. It doesn't work on high. I can detect a small amount of air coming out of the defrost vents and the floor vents when it is on high. I just replaced the resistor after finding that it had melted and still no air. My mother said that the a/c would go on and off when she hit bumps.
Do you think maybe the fan isn't grounded so the resistor overheated and caused melting in the resistor plug? The plug looks exactly like the one in the middle of this webpage. Same pin melting location also. Ford Blower Motor Resistor Pigtail Replacement...
I ran out of time to work on my moms van because I am in law school and live 2 hours away. Assuming ground, blower, and fuse are all good (I'm checking those friday), what else could be the problem?
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As the season has started to warm, I noticed when I have my air temp set to 60 and only using the vent and have not selected AC I have hot air coming out of my vents. After doing some research it appears that I may have a bad Air blend actuator, bad air door or something else. I took my truck to the dealer to get my fuel filter changed and asked if they could diagnose the hot air issue. Not being a mechanic I told the service mechanic the problem and he says the AC compressor always kicks in on fords even if the AC is not selected and maybe I have a leak and he seemed to think it more than likely was not the air blend actuator or blend door.
I told him I had no idea that the AC compressor always kicks in even with it not selected. I knew it kicked in for AC and for defrots but didn't think it did for anything else. He said since the 90's all fords did. Well I get a call that after diagnosing the system, they believe the freon is low. I just have my doubts and wonder now if I should've just tried to take the air door actuator off and test along with sticking something in the air blend door whole and verifying it was moving.
I was hoping someone that knows more than me can verify if the AC compressor kicks in even when it is not selected when I have the temp selector set to low 60 degrees. Does it make sense that I would have hot air blowing out of the vents with the temp set on low even when it is cool outside. All of my temp controls work moving from defrost, vent to heat as I can feel blowing out of the different zones.
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I just had a bunch of work done on the engine of my 96 f250 7.5 v8 460 and now whenever I'm going up hill, my air conditioner stops blowing from the vents and after I get back of a level ground it starts blowing again. What it could be?
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