Chevrolet - 1500 :: Air Direction Knob Literally Stuck In 2001 Silverado
Mar 12, 2015
I have an old base model 2001 Silverado, so manual everything. Here's my problem-- the air direction control knob (feet, defrost, face, etc.) is stuck on defrost. Literally stuck. Obviously, the knob attaches to and is supposed to turn a metal rod that then changes the direction of the air flow, but the rod will not turn at all...I even detached the knob and tried to turn it with a pliers! The climate control and fan speed knobs both work. What might be causing this?
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I have a 1995 Silverado Diesel 4X4 with 145K miles. I only drive about once a week to take trash to the dump. It's been running great until yesterday. I put in drive and went to pull out of my drive way and truck won't move. It makes a terrible sound in the rear of the truck but won't budge. I have checked transmission fluid level and appears to be good. I say appears because my drive way is on a steep incline and it's backed in, bed on the down side of hill.
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I have a 95 chevy silverado. 305 with an automatic transmission. I was driving down the street at about 30mph when the power went out on me.
The engine stayed on and all lights stayed on. I could rev the engine but the truck wouldn't move.
I then had a friend tow to my house and i let it sit overnight trying to decide what to do next.
The next day I went out and started it and it and was able to drive it again for a short distance at low speed and then it did the same thing again.
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The truck is parked in the drive. I noticed when the truck had been parked in the drive I noticed that the tail lights came on and then about 20 seconds later turned off. I checked that the ignition was off, doors were completely closed, etc. It has happened several times. I'm worried the there is an electrical problem that might drain the battery.
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a 2001 4-dr. Saturn sedan. We had a cold rainstorm a few nights ago while I was driving my car and my windows started to fog up. I attempted to move the switch from the vents to the defroster, and the knob stopped -- and stuck -- in mid-turn. After a bit of a struggle, I was finally able to get the switch over to defrost -- but the next day, when I again needed the A/C, the switch would not turn back. I took it to a Saturn mechanic who quoted $1,000 to fix it. I took it to another mechanic who doesn't specialize and he could only quote his labor -- about $200. It is now in the floor vent/defrost position and I can live with that -- but I would like to have it fixed some day. Is this a hopeless cause since Saturns are no longer manufactured?
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I have a 2001 Chevrolet 2500 HD crew cab truck and the drivers power seat will move in every direction but back. The motor hums when every button is pushed but when I push back the motor just clicks once and then nothing. Nothing is in the tracks or otherwise impeding the seat from moving backwards.
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I am trying to get some advice on a diagnosis for a transmission problem i'm experiencing with my vehicle? It's a manual transmission and the sound i am hearing is when i shift gears is a loud whirling grinding sound. It's really loud in 2nd 3rd and 5th and doesn't stop.
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So my truck battery has been giving me some issues due to the bad weather. So i jumped my truck today, and my odometer is stuck at 100 mph. What to do or dyi info. My heat is also not working, water pump is not leaking, and heater core is warmed up but I am not hearing the transfer from the cold to heat. could it be the blend door actuator.
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My name is Jason and I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 with an automatic transmission. It has trouble shifting. I have to drop it down from D into 2 and then back into D to get it to shift out of second gear most of the time. If I have to stop ten times in a trip I have to manually shift it about seven or eight of those times. On top of that, sometimes while I'm driving it will slip into Neutral but it'll still be in the D position. This just started and has only happened a few times so far. My transmission fluid levels are fine. I'm trying to see if there is any other solution besides rebuilding or replacing my transmission.
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My 2001 Chev Silverado 1500, 5.3L, 260,000 K miles may finally be near the end - It has been running great until this week. I live in Portland - weather was down to about 10 deg F a few nights and when it warmed up again the trouble started. After starting cold and driving for about 15 minutes it starts stalling out.
Sometimes it will fire right up again and I'll hardly notice except for a momentary drop to 0 on the tach. Other times I'll have to pull off to the side to the road and restart it. However, 2 times now it would not restart and stay running. It would either fire up but then die within 10 seconds, or it would just crank. Both those times it did restart successfully after 40 minutes had passed total and it drove fine afterwards until I got where I finished my commute (about another 5-10 minutes of driving).
I took it to a mechanic who could see it stall but was not able to duplicate the 40 minutes out of commission thing. His fuel pressure gauge indicated that the pressure was fine during the stall outs. The mechanic ran the computer diagnostics but didn't see anything unusual. He wasn't really sure what the problem was. He recommended replacing the fuel pump and fuel filter anyways - but couldn't say if that would make any difference.
Should I start throwing money into new parts or move on and start looking for a new vehicle?
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2001 Chevy Silverado, 2wd, 5.3 engine, 232,000 miles, front hubs with integral sensors replaced about 20,000 miles ago. Now when I brake, and just before coming to a complete stop, the ABS kicks in. Doesn't happen if I brake hard. If I let up on the brake momentarily, it stops and the rest of the stop is smooth.
Sometimes the brake and ABS lights come on, but when I had the OBD hooked up, there were no stored codes, and the brake and ABS lights go off once you turn the ignition off and then restart the engine. I suspect the problem is with the sensors for the rear wheels, but don't know where they are located.
There are no wires going to the rear wheels or the axle. Tried pulling the fuse for the ABS system, but that makes the brake and ABS lights stay on constantly.
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New battery installed a few weeks ago - 120k on 2001 Silverado. When it is rainy out, the gauge acts erratically (yesterday the needle was between 14 and 19, today it is between 9 and 14 and the battery light is on. What can I check to figure out what might be happening?
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I have a 2001 Chevy 2wheel drive 4.3 V6 Pickup with a long lasting engine knock. I use it only to haul trash and building materials, maybe once every other week. The knock is sporadic. If I take a long trip and drive on an interstate highway the following morning upon start-up the truck will knock heavily and continue to do so as long as it is running. If I take the truck for a short local trip, the following morning it will start with no knock and only start knocking after driving maybe 10 miles. If I drive only short trips, the truck will almost always start without knocking and only knock once it is fully warmed up. I purchased this vehicle from my brother who drove it this way ever since he purchased it at a salvage auction (full of dents and some damage) who put over 20,000 miles on it with this same engine knock.
Other than the dents, the truck is in great shape, no rust, and has 118,000 miles on it. I would like to keep this thing because it was very cheap and I only use it sporadically. So, I'd like to know if I'm going to eventually have to put a motor in it or if there is some small fix I could make to stop this knocking sound. The sound: It is heavy. It sounds bad. It knocks along with the rpm of the motor. My brother, who is also a great mechanic, thinks it may be piston slap or something in the valve system. I've also had a mechanic listen to it. He thinks it's a rod bearing or wrist pin. What I don't understand is how could it be any of those things when it makes a difference how I drive it the last time it was used? Could it be something simple like a vacuum issue, knock sensor or crank sensor?
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2001 Chevy Silverado with a 5.3 L engine and a leaking head gasket that was getting worse (at 217,000 miles). Car has rusted body (upstate NY), so not going to spend too much for repairs. Decided to try one of those "magic elixors" in a bottle. Went for the Bars Leaks head gasket repair stuff - Followed directions, etc (put it into the top radiator tube, NOT the overflow bottle). The stuff had little strings of copper-looking stuff floating in it. It worked. After a little more loss of coolant, the coolant loss has finally stopped. Amazing that something like this really worked.
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2001 Chevy Silverado, 1500 4wd. 135k miles. Front passenger wheel squeaks when rolled forward or back. Checked brakes and they are fine. While I had it apart, I could hear the squeak which sounded inside. I don't know the terminology, but there is a bar between two rubber boots. The squeak sounded as if it was coming from the boot near the center of the truck where there are four bolts.
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I have a 2001 Chevy Silverado with the 4.8L V-8 engine. It acts like it is running out of gas ( the gas tank is over half full). The truck has sat for about 6 months in this condition without being started here in Sacramento, CA. I then replaced the fuel filter and for a few minutes it started and the engine ran fine (without actually driving it). A few days later I started it again and it now again acts like it has fuel starvation, it will rev up briefly then act like it is running out of fuel. I know the fuel pumps are the Achilles Heel of these trucks, but before I try changing it I was wondering if there might perhaps be another problem such as the new fuel filter plugging up quickly or possibly an electrical problem. I've always heard these fuel pumps either work or they don't work, nothing in between. This problem is intermittent but big enough the truck is not driveable. Is there any way to get a good take on the problem before diving into the fuel pump replacement and hoping that solves the problem ?
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I have a 2010 chevy silverado. No matter where I turn the blower selector switch, it always comes out of the vents. Also no matter where I turn the temperature selector knob, it's always cold. It's a company truck that I can't get fixed soon because of downtime and I'm not supposed to take it to get fixed on my own time. It was 37 degrees this morning on my drive into work.
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Bought a 2001 hyundai accent 1.3 si petrol manual 2 weeks ago. After pulling off today, i went to go into 2nd gear, and I couldn't move the gear stick. I parked up and turned the engine off, then started the ignition again. When the clutch is in, the gear stick will not move in any direction, its completely stuck, but when the clutch is out, the gear stick will move in all directions.
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I have a 2000 4X4 1500. Twice now I have been driving on the highway around 60 and when I pass over a rough area, the wheels bounce all over the place. After the first time, I replaced the shocks. But it happened again. The tires are new, and are balanced a rotated every 5000 miles.
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The instrument cluster in my 2000 Silverado 1500 recently stopped working. All the gauges are flush to the left, except for the oil and battery which stay about in the middle. I ordered a different cluster online and went to install it today, finding that it still doesnt work. Except in this one everything aside from battery and oil are flush to the right. What to try next or am I going to need to take it in?
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It's a 2001 Chevy cavalier. The key is stuck and won't turn the car off. Already have tried shaking the wheel and wd-40. The wipers won't work and the gauges won't turn on until I jiggle the key.
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