This truck is from Canada. I need to convert speedometer cluster from kilometers per hour to miles per hour. The kilometers are on top and miles per hour under them. Want to convert. I have viewed kits to change the face. They have the miles per hour on top.
BUT! Does the tranny need to be re calibrated?
I have a 2008 Chevy Express Explorer conversion van with a high top. We purchased the van used in great condition in 2011. The sunroof leaks. It always has. I first called the Explorer company to ask what we could do. They said we needed to replace the seal. We ordered one from them and had it replaced. I was desperate to have it stop leaking that I had my husband put clear caulk to try and seal it up.
I am at the point of putting a tarp inside to keep my kids (4) car seats dry. The water has already damaged so much. Even the wood colored plastic now has a white haze (would like to know how to fix that if possible). Most of the water soaks in the ceiling around the sunroof and spreads out and down to the windows and in the upper cabinets. Is there anyway to fix this without having to spend more than we owe on it.
My plan to clean the fuel injectors on my 2008 Silverado LS 4.8L V8 came to an abrupt halt when I was unable to disable the fuel pump relay because it is missing from the spot where it should be located according to the schematic in the owner's manual. Would removing the "fuel system control module" (fuse #21) instead of the fuel pump relay work?
View 7 RepliesOk everytime I am stopped at a light or even when my car is in park, my speedometer begins to jump up and down, usually it will jus eventually stop, yesterday the engine started to rev then the car just shut off while I'm just sitting at a light, then my headlights began darken right before it shuts off. What could the problem. 2008 Chevy Cobalt
View 7 RepliesThe instrument cluster in my 2000 Silverado 1500 recently stopped working. All the gauges are flush to the left, except for the oil and battery which stay about in the middle. I ordered a different cluster online and went to install it today, finding that it still doesnt work. Except in this one everything aside from battery and oil are flush to the right. What to try next or am I going to need to take it in?
View 1 RepliesHow difficult is changing the whole speedometer cluster on a 94 honda accord? Mine has been messed up since i got the car. It stays on 20mph when I turn on the car.
View 6 RepliesRecently the speedometer and center stack light cluster went dark. The navigation screen is working but I have no lighted speed/fuel gauge/mileage reading and the lights on the radio control are off as well.
View 2 RepliesI am having a slight issue with my cluster. When I turn the key on or start the car, the speedo needle goes crazy for about a minute then stops above 0mph (points at 5mph when im not moving). While that's happening, the other needles don't work until the speedo normalizes. It also does this when i turn the car off. What this could be? I heard about the VSS can cause speedo issues but what about the rest? I also heard the mk4's can have cluster failures. it's a 99' mk4 vr6 jetta 5spd.
View 3 RepliesWhile traveling speedometer and fuel level indicated blanked out. No other problems--I could see our speed by using GPS.
Toyota service said a circuit board was burned out. I searched and found numerous such problems with 04 up to 09 and eventually (in 2012) Toyota initiated an extended warranty to cover replacement of the board.
Town and all shops nearby have a week wait to get the truck in there. This happened once or twice a year ago but I'd pull over, shut it off and when I restarted it everything was fine. I'll be driving and all of a sudden the information display on the cluster will show a wrench signaling something's wrong(see image), then the speedometer will go to 0 and all information in center display will show flat lines. This started up yesterday but is now doing it after about 10min of driving every time I being driving. What's worse is the truck will randomly start shifting or shift extremely hard even when driving at a consistent speed. This was taken while truck was going about 45, but shows 0...
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 F-150 5.4L Extended Cab. The windows have to be rolled up by hand and would like to know if there is a way to converted to power window and maybe locks too.
View 1 RepliesI have a 97 chevy and the only way to start it is to jump the starter relay, not sure if it is the key switch ot the nuetral saftey switch.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts (sorry, not to up on my car lingo here lol)
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts...
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
I would like to have some knowledge or information in case I have to take it to a mechanic to have it looked at. The last people (Just Breaks) I took it to really tried to screw me over. After they worked on it the Emergency break light was on and his fix was to just "unplug" the sensor. I said Heck no! Fix it! after three bleeds it tripped the sensor off. So I am a bit hesitant to have them looked at after that experience.
Infrequently (once every couple weeks) my 2002 Suburban won't start. The starter seems to work properly as the engine tries to turn over and even seems to initially start for a fraction of a second but then dies. If I wait 10 to 30 minutes it will usually start without a problem. This problem does not seem to be related to outside temp, recent use or car position. After dealing with this occasionally inconvenient problem for months I took the car to a service shop and was told that if they could not reproduce the problem that trying to fix it would be a wild goose chase. When the problem occurred again I took it to another shop who kept the car for 3-4 days but was unable to reproduce the problem.
They suggested that there was a problem with the fuel pump but did not want to replace it unless they were sure that was the problem. I then spoke to the Chevy dealership shop who also said it was most likely the fuel pump. In my frustration dealing with this problem I took the car back to my local shop and ask them to replace the fuel pump ($800). Unfortunately, the intermittent problem has persisted and I'm not sure what to do next. I did have an after market remote ignition added a number of years ago and took it back to them to see if this could be related and they said no way. I have also wondered about the security system being a problem in that my rear hatch cargo door does not lock even though the other doors lock normally.
Car: 1993 Chevy C 1500 (2WD) manual transmission Background: The car sat unused in a garage for 2 weeks (no problems before this) the first drive after its break, the pickup almost felt like it was slipping and power was not getting to the wheels. The vibrating began the next day. The vibrating is very obvious and unpleasant under acceleration at approximately 2000 RPMs in any gear. Grease was injected via grease zerk into the center carrier bearing area and the vibrating was marginally better. Today the back end of the truck was lifted up and put into gear and brought up to 30 MPH. The pickup was then lowered and a test drive revealed that the vibrating was considerably diminished.
An inspection of the drive shaft reveals:no vibrating in neutral the U-joints are not loose or leaking; the drive shaft has 2 small dents which are countered on the opposite side by weights;the drive shaft will move up and down ~1 inch or less if pushed in bench press fashion near the carrier bearing;the drive shaft does not move in the direction of the length of the vehicle;the drive shaft will rotate freely 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn before it is stopped by the back of the transmission or the rear differential; no mud clods in wheel wells;new tires properly inflated.
1992 WT pick up 263,000 miles had new head gasket installed valves lapped and tune up it was doing it before and does get better when truck warms up, but still can hesitate at times. When cold you have to feather gas pedal to truck accelerating, you can hear truck motor pop through throttle body but will continue to speed up.
View 2 RepliesMy 02 silverado has started making a bubbling sound when I accelerate. The sound is coming from under the passenger side dash.
View 2 RepliesI own a 1998 Chevy K1500 Silverado. About a year and a half ago my interior lights stopped turning off. I found that the only way to make the lights go out is to pull the interior light fuse. With the fuse pulled my lights will go out when the key is in the off position. With the key in any position besides off and the radio on my cab lights are on half bright. If I turn off the radio or pull the radio fuse the lights go out. My mechanic and I both investigated this and came up with the same answer: the Keyless Entry Module. After living with no cab lights for a year and a half (in northern New Hampshire) I broke down and paid the 180 bucks for the "Remote Function Actuation Module" (I had to take my dash apart and get the part number off the old module to figure out which one of three or four possible modules was used in my truck). Now that I have replaced the module I still have the same problem. If it's not the module then what is causing my lights to stay on all the time with the fuse in or come on half bright with the fuse pulled?
View 1 RepliesI drive a 1993 Chevrolet 1500 v6, 2wd. I have changed every part I can think of related to the fuel system. When I try to accelerate, the engine hesitates, it gets louder, and my truck will jerk. Sometimes, however, it is responsive. Often times, it will be responsive for a few minutes and start to decelerate.
View 2 RepliesJust got a 1990 k1500 with the 4.3 v6 and 5 speed and it backfires. A buddy told me it was shooting flames out of my exhaust. What does that mean?
View 7 Replies