When pumping fuel in 07 silverado classic 1500 4.8L the gas pump at the station continues to cut off. Took me 20 minutes to pump. I now have a check engine light on and the code says it code be the EVAP vent solenoid or the purge solenoid. Truck seems to be running fine other than stronger fuel odor at the exhaust. which solenoid need replaced....
View 6 RepliesCan't fill the tank in my 1981 Chevy 1500 Truck; pump cuts off after 7 gallons. I took the vent tube and the fill hose off and there are no blockages.
View 8 RepliesMy plan to clean the fuel injectors on my 2008 Silverado LS 4.8L V8 came to an abrupt halt when I was unable to disable the fuel pump relay because it is missing from the spot where it should be located according to the schematic in the owner's manual. Would removing the "fuel system control module" (fuse #21) instead of the fuel pump relay work?
View 7 RepliesSeveral years ago I had to replace the fuel pump - truck had about 100,000 miles. Within the last 4 - 5 months I have replaced the fuel pump twice and just today (about two months since the last replacement), the fuel pump has failed again. That has been the pattern now for the last several months. I have had the work done by one of the reputable car repair shops in town - they have also done work on my 2004 Impala with no issues with the repair. There must be something else going on besides just the fuel pump going bad. What would cause so many fuel pump failures.
View 16 RepliesMy 95 chevy 1500 pickup is having fuel pump issues. Somewhere between the relay and the sending unit. Pulled the tank, and put power directly to both the pump and the sending unit. They both run. Put in new relay, still not turning on the pump. Do not know if this is related, but the switch to turn on the interior light when you open the door does not work on the drivers side door. If I pull on the switch the light will come on.
View 3 RepliesThe truck is parked in the drive. I noticed when the truck had been parked in the drive I noticed that the tail lights came on and then about 20 seconds later turned off. I checked that the ignition was off, doors were completely closed, etc. It has happened several times. I'm worried the there is an electrical problem that might drain the battery.
View 10 RepliesMy battery was drained two nights ago, I jumped started it fine. However, the last two days, the truck has been hard to start, and battery seems low, even though the vehicle has been driven plenty. Today a new problem as arose, with the AC climate control. Driver side vents blow out very Hot Air, and Passenger Side blows out very cold Air. The setting on the digital climate control system says 60 F on both sides. Its possible the AC was on when the truck was jump started.
View 2 RepliesI go to get fuel tonight as my wife gets home with "that" look on her face. Car is at a quarter tank. Go to pump put in the nozzle and start pumping. The nozzle stops and I can hear gurgling from the tank. Here is a pic of how much goes in. So I now pull the fuel nozzle out a tad and proceed to keep putting gas in slowly. Here is a shot.
After I do this the car takes more fuel and I continue until I can see the small bubbles. Understand that fuel is not leaking anywhere. Its not coming out of the sides or anything. I am also not filling it up to the point in overflows out. Here is a pic of the total fuel when I am done.
Is this normal? I have to do this every time. I noticed on a 987-S Boxster I had the tank did not vent properly cause the same thing would happen. Trick I would do is rotate the fuel nozzle 180 degrees up and it would fill up completely. I tried doing this on the Lexus and it didn't work.
I have a 2005 Chevrolet Avalanche with the 5.3 V-8. When one goes to start the engine it continues cranking (sometimes) after the engine starts and you let go of the key . Sometimes it only does it momentarily; sometimes you have to manually bring the key back so it stops cranking. I have gotten several opinions. Some say ignition switch in the steering column; others say starter/solenoid; others say electrical problem such as a relay. Problem is it only does it sporadically and it never does it when I take it to the shop. What the problem is ?
View 10 RepliesAnyways i have a 2007 Chevy Silverado 5.3L that is having some difficulties with the power steering, let me explain. About 2 weeks ago i noticed when i first started my truck that the steering was stiffer than normal, so i checked the fluid and indeed it was low. Great i thought i will add some more power steering fluid, which i did and bam instantly fixed. Well fast forward to yesterday and all of a sudden now the steering is even worse. I thought dang i must be leaking fluids, but no the fluid level was just fine. I checked it both when the engine was hot and cold. The real mystery of this is that I am not hearing any weird noises, no whining or signs of a bad belt. Maybe the pump is going bad? Not sure what is going on here.
View 7 RepliesMy Sub makes a wonderful ticking noise that resembles a turn signal--it continues to tick until i apply the brakes. i have just replaced the brake switch and the noise is still there. All the lights on the vehicle are not illuminated while it is making the noise, it makes the noise while either driving or idling.
View 4 RepliesI get a very annoying high pitched electronic whine on an AM radio station that I like. It occurs all the time. Its like a grounding problem. It is so bad I can't listen to the station in my 2009 LS. Only one station, AM 810, has the issue. I don't have ML. Just a regular radio. No other radio issues.
View 10 RepliesI was checking under my hood today and I happened to notice a dent in what I think is my water pump. Should this be cause for concern or something I can just ignore?
View 16 RepliesFor the past year I have had intermittent start issues with my LS that occur about 15 percent of the time. Ambient or engine temperature do not make a difference. Sometimes the starter engages but then disengages right away. I then need to depress the start button an additional time or two before it actually starts. At other times the starter engages and continues cranking while the engine sounds like it is trying to start (like it is just barely keeping ahead of the starter speed). That carries on for several seconds and then it starts. Nothing shows on diagnostics and the dealer says I am going to have to wait until there is a complete "no start" before they can trouble shoot. There was a similar issue with earlier 460 models but the Lexus service tech said that problem does not apply to the 2011's. It seems there is a lack of fuel delivery but from what point? And why only intermittent and momentary?
View 6 RepliesI have a 2007 SantaFe Limited with 40k miles on it, first thing in the morning when I start it up there is what I can describe as an valve or lifter knock and it continues until the engine gets warm then all is fine. Oil and filters have been changed on a regular schedule,,,,,is this normal??
View 23 RepliesI have a 97 chevy and the only way to start it is to jump the starter relay, not sure if it is the key switch ot the nuetral saftey switch.
View 2 RepliesI have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts (sorry, not to up on my car lingo here lol)
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts...
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
I would like to have some knowledge or information in case I have to take it to a mechanic to have it looked at. The last people (Just Breaks) I took it to really tried to screw me over. After they worked on it the Emergency break light was on and his fix was to just "unplug" the sensor. I said Heck no! Fix it! after three bleeds it tripped the sensor off. So I am a bit hesitant to have them looked at after that experience.
Infrequently (once every couple weeks) my 2002 Suburban won't start. The starter seems to work properly as the engine tries to turn over and even seems to initially start for a fraction of a second but then dies. If I wait 10 to 30 minutes it will usually start without a problem. This problem does not seem to be related to outside temp, recent use or car position. After dealing with this occasionally inconvenient problem for months I took the car to a service shop and was told that if they could not reproduce the problem that trying to fix it would be a wild goose chase. When the problem occurred again I took it to another shop who kept the car for 3-4 days but was unable to reproduce the problem.
They suggested that there was a problem with the fuel pump but did not want to replace it unless they were sure that was the problem. I then spoke to the Chevy dealership shop who also said it was most likely the fuel pump. In my frustration dealing with this problem I took the car back to my local shop and ask them to replace the fuel pump ($800). Unfortunately, the intermittent problem has persisted and I'm not sure what to do next. I did have an after market remote ignition added a number of years ago and took it back to them to see if this could be related and they said no way. I have also wondered about the security system being a problem in that my rear hatch cargo door does not lock even though the other doors lock normally.
Car: 1993 Chevy C 1500 (2WD) manual transmission Background: The car sat unused in a garage for 2 weeks (no problems before this) the first drive after its break, the pickup almost felt like it was slipping and power was not getting to the wheels. The vibrating began the next day. The vibrating is very obvious and unpleasant under acceleration at approximately 2000 RPMs in any gear. Grease was injected via grease zerk into the center carrier bearing area and the vibrating was marginally better. Today the back end of the truck was lifted up and put into gear and brought up to 30 MPH. The pickup was then lowered and a test drive revealed that the vibrating was considerably diminished.
An inspection of the drive shaft reveals:no vibrating in neutral the U-joints are not loose or leaking; the drive shaft has 2 small dents which are countered on the opposite side by weights;the drive shaft will move up and down ~1 inch or less if pushed in bench press fashion near the carrier bearing;the drive shaft does not move in the direction of the length of the vehicle;the drive shaft will rotate freely 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn before it is stopped by the back of the transmission or the rear differential; no mud clods in wheel wells;new tires properly inflated.
1992 WT pick up 263,000 miles had new head gasket installed valves lapped and tune up it was doing it before and does get better when truck warms up, but still can hesitate at times. When cold you have to feather gas pedal to truck accelerating, you can hear truck motor pop through throttle body but will continue to speed up.
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