Chevrolet - 1500 :: 2005 - SRS Light Continually Stays On
Feb 4, 2013
My Dad drives a 2005 Chevy C1500, and he complains that the SRS light continually stays on. He wants to know how to turn it off without taking it to the dealership.
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I have a 2001 Chevy S10 4.3L. The CHECK GAUGES light stays on, and the oil pressure gauge stays at 0. The oil is full, and the engine runs and sounds fine. I drove it about 5 miles with no change. Up until now, the gauge has worked normally. Could it be the sending unit?
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my wife's 05 Tahoe started acting up by showing "service 4wd" on the way to church - then on the way to taking the kids to school this morning it showed "stability sys disabled." I have read some other forms and they are all over the place on what to do or where to start. what they are saying is true --- the car acts sluggish and seemed like it switched into 4wd. Where to start?? a sensor ?? some said the encoder motor?? even the 4wd on the dash being replaced??
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts (sorry, not to up on my car lingo here lol)
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts...
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
I would like to have some knowledge or information in case I have to take it to a mechanic to have it looked at. The last people (Just Breaks) I took it to really tried to screw me over. After they worked on it the Emergency break light was on and his fix was to just "unplug" the sensor. I said Heck no! Fix it! after three bleeds it tripped the sensor off. So I am a bit hesitant to have them looked at after that experience.
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My air bag service light just came on. I have a Chevy Silverado 2005 with 195,000 miles. Any clues?
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i was driving my car back home after a short drive to the store and my car stalled and i started it back up and it continued to stall (no check engine light was coming on or oil light if there is one). I finally got it back home and it will not start now, I asked a friend to come look at it and he said it could be the starter, as he was checking on that he said there was a hole in my oil pan, which of course i did not see.
I replaced the starter just in case and it did not start and he also replaced the oil pan and put oil in as it was completely dry(4 quarts). it still makes the same noise when i try to start it with a jump and a new battery, when i turn the key all of the dash lights go dead, so i am unsure what to do next if my engine is seized or maybe something else i can hopefully check or replace for cheaper...
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If sensor or control module malfunction. Brakes are fine. If ABS relay, so where is it located, cant find in fuse box. This is a 1500 2WD suburban.
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My ABS light is on most of the time. When I first start the engine it will be on, but when I put the truck in gear, either forward or reverse, it will shut of after moving only 5 or 10 feet. It will stay off for 2 or 3 blocks before it will come back on and stay on until you shut it off and start the process over again. I have replaced the left front ABS sensor and the right front hub an bearing assembly, which has a new ABS sensor in it already. A scanner still says the both front ABS sensors are at fault. I have unhooked the sensors and the ABS motor and unhooked the battery and nothing has changed. All connections look very clean and the pins look straight.
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Chevy 1999 tahoe 5.7 vortec ... Car hesitates engine light reads random misfire at auto zone. Took to dealer said 10 degrees out of time on his diagnostic machine. Replaced just about every thing on engine dealer said he couldn't fix because he couldn't adjust distributor, I told him on my car that you couldn't adjust timing from distributor, who is right?
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I have a 2003 Chevy 1500HD 6.0L 4x4. I've recently started getting the "Reduced Engine Power" light along with the P1516 Fault code. I've checked all the wires going to the TAC Module, TPS, and MAP, all appear to be in good condition. The Throttle Body is clean and the "flapper moves freely with no sticking. I only have this issue when it is warm outside. Recently we've had fairly code days between 32-50 degree weather but on the few days that it has gotten warmer, I've had the issue. Since it seems to only happen when its warm, I believe it to be a moisture issue, but I'm not sure.
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Have 2005 Camry LE. Had body work done yesterday and they must have disconnected battery and now alarm does not work. Have 3-button (lock, unlock and panic) FCC ID #C043VT14T remote. Alarm system is by Micorp. I tried using program instructions for the FCC ID #C043VT14T remote for another model Toyota but did not work. Keyless entry on remote works but anti theft alarm does not work. Dash button continually flicks red. How to reset (program) remote for 2005 Camry?
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Reverse light stays on reverse even when switching it to a different gear. Car doesn't move forward.
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The park brake light stays on brake fluid level is good park brake is not on park brake switch is ok will sometimes go out but always comes back on .My son and one of my buddys also have a 2005 and have the same problem....
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2005 F250 4x4, manual locking hubs, ABS light stays on. Plugged it up, front sensors had a bad signal. Replaced both front sensors, still had light. Pulled out the sensors, cleaned the sensor rings the best we could with a little screwdriver. Installed the sensors, cleared the codes. Drove the truck a few miles, light came back on. Plugged it up, same codes. Removed the sensors and there was grease back on the sensor rings. Cleaned it up again, ran through the motions, drove it, light comes back on. Is there supposed to be grease on the sensor ring? It keeps coming back in every time it is driven. My next guess would be the hub bearings are going bad?
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How to reset my check engine light as well as how I can figure out what is causing the light to continue to come on. Can't keep going to the dealer to spend $ to have it turned off.
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Need to identify this part? I believe this part is causing my check engine light to continually come on, due to worn out connectors (I.e. Vacuum leak)!
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I have a 2010 F250 super duty. I use it for work so I am not sure what happened to it as others have driven it, but here is the issue. When i start it up in 2wd, the 4x4 Low light flashes continually. If I turn the switch to 4x4 high, the 4x4 high light flashes continually. if i turn it to 4x4 low, that light flashes continually. I have read the forums but haven't been able to find the problem/diagnosis for this.
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I have a 97 chevy and the only way to start it is to jump the starter relay, not sure if it is the key switch ot the nuetral saftey switch.
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Infrequently (once every couple weeks) my 2002 Suburban won't start. The starter seems to work properly as the engine tries to turn over and even seems to initially start for a fraction of a second but then dies. If I wait 10 to 30 minutes it will usually start without a problem. This problem does not seem to be related to outside temp, recent use or car position. After dealing with this occasionally inconvenient problem for months I took the car to a service shop and was told that if they could not reproduce the problem that trying to fix it would be a wild goose chase. When the problem occurred again I took it to another shop who kept the car for 3-4 days but was unable to reproduce the problem.
They suggested that there was a problem with the fuel pump but did not want to replace it unless they were sure that was the problem. I then spoke to the Chevy dealership shop who also said it was most likely the fuel pump. In my frustration dealing with this problem I took the car back to my local shop and ask them to replace the fuel pump ($800). Unfortunately, the intermittent problem has persisted and I'm not sure what to do next. I did have an after market remote ignition added a number of years ago and took it back to them to see if this could be related and they said no way. I have also wondered about the security system being a problem in that my rear hatch cargo door does not lock even though the other doors lock normally.
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Car: 1993 Chevy C 1500 (2WD) manual transmission Background: The car sat unused in a garage for 2 weeks (no problems before this) the first drive after its break, the pickup almost felt like it was slipping and power was not getting to the wheels. The vibrating began the next day. The vibrating is very obvious and unpleasant under acceleration at approximately 2000 RPMs in any gear. Grease was injected via grease zerk into the center carrier bearing area and the vibrating was marginally better. Today the back end of the truck was lifted up and put into gear and brought up to 30 MPH. The pickup was then lowered and a test drive revealed that the vibrating was considerably diminished.
An inspection of the drive shaft reveals:no vibrating in neutral the U-joints are not loose or leaking; the drive shaft has 2 small dents which are countered on the opposite side by weights;the drive shaft will move up and down ~1 inch or less if pushed in bench press fashion near the carrier bearing;the drive shaft does not move in the direction of the length of the vehicle;the drive shaft will rotate freely 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn before it is stopped by the back of the transmission or the rear differential; no mud clods in wheel wells;new tires properly inflated.
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