The vehicle: 2002 Chevy Silverado 1500 w/ Z71.
The problem: Steerage issue. No problem exhibited while driving. However, at stop or very slow there is a loss of power steering but only when turning the wheels right. There is also an audible sound when turning to the right. Kind of a whooshing or air expulsion?
I have a 2008 Pruis that acts like it has a plugged heater core but I wonder if there is more to it. I thought it had air in the system so I drew the cooling system down with vacuum and was able to get another half quart of coolant in it with a radkit plus vacuum coolant filling tool but it did not change anything. At idle there is no heat until you go up a hill at highway speeds when the heat starts to flow. As soon as the engine slows down or shuts off, there is no heat again. I was going to backflush the heater core but after I noticed all the valves and pumps in the cooling system, I stopped because I wondered if there could be a problem with any of those mechanical parts in the heating system. I don't think that there is still air in the system because the engine temperature is good and the coolant level is full when you remove the radiator cap. With the engine idling, all the hoses in the front of the engine are hot including to the heater storage tank. If you touch the aluminum pipes going into and out of the heater core, one is hot and the other is cold. Should my next step be to back flush the heater core?
View 18 RepliesI have a misfire in the 6 cylinder on my 98 Chevy c1500 5.7l 350 v8 2wd. I changed the spark plugs and wires, cap and rotor, and changed the spider injector i put the spider injector in from another engine I had. After doing all this the code still comes up. The truck runs fine and except it idles slight rough not bad at all and now it says I have a vacuum leak and while I'm driving you can feel the loss of power. I tried all the ways to do it like on YouTube. What is wrong with my truck?
View 10 RepliesT-reg is at the dealer and told it won't be back for at least a week. I noticed water in the rear cargo area under air compressor after rain. Also, rear wiper makes a terrible noise when turned on. Was told that replacement parts are not local and would take at least a week.
Noticed vibration from the steering column area when coming to a stop at a traffic light? Be sure to check your cargo areas!!!
I own a 2002 Acura TL- car has 100K, i am the original owner- always maintained etc.. I am having problems with the transmission- car was in accident back in 2005, and tranny was replaced..Anyways, when i back car out and then hit it in drive, car goes to neutral. also when i drive, approach stop sign, and then accelerate, car goes to netural- dealer says need new tranny- cost is 2400 plus tax.... so i was thinking of doing that but now they say there is a leak with the oil pump- i said i dont see oil leaking they say its hitting the pan, could go in a month or in a year- cost 1200 to fix.. then he said the brake lines will need to be changed evenually- again 1000 or more.....ball joints- they quoated me 625...
So they say they will give me 500 bucks for a trade in- this car is in really good conditiion except for the supposed problems they found..If they car wouldnt have these problems i would get the tranny fixed- but i dont know what to do- ball joints dont have to be replaced- they hvae a little play.. the oil leak? I mean i have a 2000 accord that the dealer says is leaking- my private mechanic says all accords leak.
95 manual trans Subaru Legacy (lack of power), Everyday at least once my car will cut off when I come to a stop. Also, at least once a day it seems like there is no gas pressure. What I mean is I will just be driving along and no gas is getting to where it needs to be. I can pump the gas pedal and the gas engages again. There seems to be no rhyme or reason. It doesn't matter what the lay of the land is. I will say it has occured an increased number of times over the past 2 very warm days. It could be it's just getting worse.
View 2 RepliesI recently had the high and low pressure tubes on my power steering fail causing a total loss of fluid. After about a week of living with manual steering, I brought it in and had the tubing replaced. Everything worked fine, though the steering felt a bit sloppy to me. Today, on my way home from a 100 mile trip, the car decided that turning left just wasn't something it wanted to do.
So to turn left, I would have to back up and turn the wheels to the right. Not exactly an efficient way to drive in traffic. Do I try to get the car back into my mechanics place to see if he can fix it for a reasonable amount, or should just bite the bullet and look for a newer car? BTW when I had brought the car in for the tubing replacement, they showed me where the bracket holding the strut on the left had begun to crack, probably from driving without the power steering. 1998 Malibu LS ....
Driving while in 4x4 HI up a hill the truck started to slip. I stopped, shifted to neutral, and engaged 4x4 Low. I shifted back to drive and started moving up the hill. The engine started to lose power and the "Service Engine Soon" light began to blink. I put the truck in park. As I let it run a little bit, the engine started to shake as if something was very imbalanced. I went to check under the hood, and confirmed that it was shaking quite noticeably. There was no grinding or clattering of any kind though.
I turned the truck off for a bit, and then restarted. There was no light or shaking upon starting up; but as soon as I put it in gear and started driving I could tell it was losing power, the light came back on, and the shaking ensued. This occurred in 2wd, and both 4wd lo and hi. I parked it at a neighbors place and there it sits for now.
I plan to try and get the codes read. My other vehicles can't make it through the snow we have right now, but it is suppose to get warm later today and might melt enough for me to get one out. I also live out in the country, so the nearest auto parts place is about 20 miles. Same with a dealership service shop. I'm hoping I can buy and return a code reader from an auto parts store to assess if this is something I can diagnose myself or not.
It is the 6.0l gas engine with the 4sp automatic transmission. The truck also has about 107,000 miles.
2001 Chevy Silverado, 2wd, 5.3 engine, 232,000 miles, front hubs with integral sensors replaced about 20,000 miles ago. Now when I brake, and just before coming to a complete stop, the ABS kicks in. Doesn't happen if I brake hard. If I let up on the brake momentarily, it stops and the rest of the stop is smooth.
Sometimes the brake and ABS lights come on, but when I had the OBD hooked up, there were no stored codes, and the brake and ABS lights go off once you turn the ignition off and then restart the engine. I suspect the problem is with the sensors for the rear wheels, but don't know where they are located.
There are no wires going to the rear wheels or the axle. Tried pulling the fuse for the ABS system, but that makes the brake and ABS lights stay on constantly.
2005 Dodge Caravan losing power; code read catalytic converter, so replaced but it is still doing same thing. Will drive fine some days, others it loses power or sometimes accelerates when stopping. What else could be wrong?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2006 Chevy Silverado. After a complete stop a distinct "clunk" comes from the rear passenger tire. It's not heard or felt every time maybe 70%. I've raised the rear end and spun both tires to check for a sticking caliper. I haven't removed the tire. Brake fluid is full and in good shape.
View 2 RepliesMy truck it's shakes the dash shakes the steering wheel shakes whenever driving below 20 miles an hour it's stops or I can't tell it shakes. What causing this? My 1999 4/4 Chevy silverado...
View 6 RepliesMy 2004 Chevrolet Siverado's steering box seems to leak. It was adressed at one point but then just seemed to leak all over my driveway, it sits alot. It also make a loud winding sound when it first starts in cold weather then goes away when warmed up? Finally the oil pressure gauge is pinned passed 80 psi. just gauge?
View 3 RepliesAfter my truck sits overnight it starts immediately and goes to fast idle for a few seconds, then ithe idle starts dropping until it gets to approx. 400 RPM.If I drive off immediately it will correct itself in a short while, otherwise I need to baby the engine speed until it runs on its own - usually five minutes.I cleaned the MAF and performed a MAF tap test with no success.
View 3 RepliesI am having issues with my 2002 chevy cavalier.
The car occasionally surges forward while idle and revs up to 1500 rpm approximately occasionally when the air conditioner is on... if the brake is not applied I move forward.. the lurches are continuous every 3 seconds or so.
I am getting a code for an evap leak.. I have replaced the purge solenoid valve, gas cap, and checked all connections with no luck... slightly decreased gas mileage has occurred.
A little bit of a slick substance has been leaking from the car.. it has the consistency of water, but leaves a slight brown tinge on concrete.
2002 camry: my boyfriend just told me he accidentally added power steering fluid to the brake reservoir a couple monthes ago....while i floored it on highway, i only reached 40, when let off gas, car came to a quick stop. later i jacked up rear and was able to turn back tires to rule out e-brake being stuck,when car is in nuetral and pushed (forward or backward) it comes to a stop whithin a foot or so ( it seemed like the brakes were being depressed) possible transmission or brake issue?
View 2 RepliesI know it seems like everyone's truck tends to have different tolerances when it comes to when it starts and stops regen when it comes to gpl but the last two times my truck has gone into regen it starts at 100% and finishes at 25%. Is it normal to stop regen when it gets to 25% or should it be stopping at 0%. Or could it be that the percentage in my truck is off and it's actually using the gpl to start and Stop? The only thing about that is that forscan says it's supposed to start at 100% which it does so if my percentage is off that would mean it was starting at 75% does it not?
View 14 Replies I experience a jump or jerk when rolling towards e.g. a stop sign or traffic light, or even in stop-and-go traffic and the transmission shifts down into first gear. The jerk only happens when I stop slowly. If I break fairly hard, this problem does not appear. It even jumps/jerks when I roll down my driveway, breaking slightly. In some cases, I fear that I'll leave the gearbox on the street.
This, of course, does not happen every time, but frequently enough that I asked my VW dealer to take a look at the problem. They changed my spark plugs and said that this may have been the reason
Can not quite make this connection, and of course on my way home the same jump/jerks happen, as on my way to work this morning. I want to take my car back to the dealer, but hopefully with some more insight, since they appear to be clueless.
Symptoms:
1. As I'm coming to a stop the rpms drop to about 4-500 and the battery light comes on.
2. But instead of shutting off the car revs itself to about 1.5k and does this about 2 or 3 times. (bouncing between 500 and 1.5k rpms.)
3. Car then either settles at a normal idle, or it turns off.
This happens when I'm coming to a stop in neutral or 1st with the clutch pressed down. If I come to a stop in 2nd gear with the clutch down it either does nothing, or just 1 and 2 but doesn't shut off.
Recently i have been noticing a vibration that wasn't there a while back. I installed an Autotech insert about 5k ago, didn't notice it right away, but it's pretty pronounced now. Also have koni's, APR stg II, B&B TBE and APR intake if that's relevant...
The vibration is especially noticeable when i come to a slow stop, either in gear, clutch in, or in neutral. It's a relatively loud thumping that can be felt through the brake pedal, and through the car when foot not on the brake. Seems to get increase as I get closer to stopping, then lightens up a bit when stopped. If i take it off-idle while sitting still by a minimal amount, it completely goes away.
Also, from a gradual start, there is a brief but loud squeak / groan as the clutch engages. If i am a little more aggressive, it doesn't happen.
I do not beat on this car at all, don't launch it hard, or anything like that. Was thinking about taking the Autotech insert out to see if that changes anything, but my back isn't really feeling up to the task this weekend.
weird thing happens in my 2.0 manual jetta. every 1500ish miles, when coming to a stop, it feels like my car is about to stall but its not in gear.The trip milage will reset, radio will turn off, dash will dim, but no CEL. Since then key fob doesnt work (replaced fob batteries), and my DRL are off. still cold starts no problem (figure its not the battery), trying to figure out if i can get closer to what needs a fix before tearing into something unrelated.
View 3 Replies