Chevrolet - 1500 :: 2001 - Long Lasting Engine Knock


Feb 5, 2011

I have a 2001 Chevy 2wheel drive 4.3 V6 Pickup with a long lasting engine knock. I use it only to haul trash and building materials, maybe once every other week. The knock is sporadic. If I take a long trip and drive on an interstate highway the following morning upon start-up the truck will knock heavily and continue to do so as long as it is running. If I take the truck for a short local trip, the following morning it will start with no knock and only start knocking after driving maybe 10 miles. If I drive only short trips, the truck will almost always start without knocking and only knock once it is fully warmed up. I purchased this vehicle from my brother who drove it this way ever since he purchased it at a salvage auction (full of dents and some damage) who put over 20,000 miles on it with this same engine knock.

Other than the dents, the truck is in great shape, no rust, and has 118,000 miles on it. I would like to keep this thing because it was very cheap and I only use it sporadically. So, I'd like to know if I'm going to eventually have to put a motor in it or if there is some small fix I could make to stop this knocking sound. The sound: It is heavy. It sounds bad. It knocks along with the rpm of the motor. My brother, who is also a great mechanic, thinks it may be piston slap or something in the valve system. I've also had a mechanic listen to it. He thinks it's a rod bearing or wrist pin. What I don't understand is how could it be any of those things when it makes a difference how I drive it the last time it was used? Could it be something simple like a vacuum issue, knock sensor or crank sensor?

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I have a 2001 Suburban, 5.3 liter, 2 wheel drive, automatic transmission. I often take 250 to 600 mile trips and track my MPG between gas fill ups/rest stops about every 2-3 hours. I use cruise control and maintain the same speed as much as possible on each trip.What happens is my MPG varies from 16.8 to an all time best, 24 MPG between fill ups. What could be causing this?

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Chevrolet - 1500 :: 2001 - While Braking Or Coming To Stop ABS Comes On?

2001 Chevy Silverado, 2wd, 5.3 engine, 232,000 miles, front hubs with integral sensors replaced about 20,000 miles ago. Now when I brake, and just before coming to a complete stop, the ABS kicks in. Doesn't happen if I brake hard. If I let up on the brake momentarily, it stops and the rest of the stop is smooth.

Sometimes the brake and ABS lights come on, but when I had the OBD hooked up, there were no stored codes, and the brake and ABS lights go off once you turn the ignition off and then restart the engine. I suspect the problem is with the sensors for the rear wheels, but don't know where they are located.

There are no wires going to the rear wheels or the axle. Tried pulling the fuse for the ABS system, but that makes the brake and ABS lights stay on constantly.

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Chevrolet - 1500 :: Air Direction Knob Literally Stuck In 2001 Silverado

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Chevrolet - 1500 - Wheels :: 2001 - Squeaky Front Passenger Wheel?

2001 Chevy Silverado, 1500 4wd. 135k miles. Front passenger wheel squeaks when rolled forward or back. Checked brakes and they are fine. While I had it apart, I could hear the squeak which sounded inside. I don't know the terminology, but there is a bar between two rubber boots. The squeak sounded as if it was coming from the boot near the center of the truck where there are four bolts.

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Chevrolet - 1500 :: 2001 Acts Like Running Out Of Fuel When Gas Tank Is Over Half Full

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Chevrolet - 1500 :: Engine Surges When In Park

My 1992 Chevy truck started surging or revving up when in park. It will tac to 1000 rpm's then go back down - up and down. It won't barely drive down the road. Didn't know if this is a fuel pump problem or something more serious. We've replace several parts that were described on the internet as "could be the problem", but nothing has worked.

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Chevrolet - 1500 :: 1999 - Engine Just Died When Driving At About 40 Mph

1999 Chevrolet Silverado 4.3 ltr ....

I was riding along the other day at about 40 mph and my engine just DIED. No sputtering, jerking, lurching, etc.. I have a 1999 Silverado 1500 4.3.

Since then I've tried swapping the fuel filter out. When I took the old one off I did the blow test and could barely get a bit of air through it. Put in a brand new one. Still won't start. It cranks but it won't turn over. It's like it is starved for gas I suppose.

All electrical faculties are functioning seemingly normal. (Of course I have to charge the battery every time I want to try and crank it because it doesn't charge itself because IT WON'T CRANK!)

I've had to change the fuel pump twice in the past 2 years. The last time was about 5 months ago.

For the past week or two my "Change Engine Oil" light has been on even though I've had my oil changed a month ago.

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Chevrolet - 1500 :: Oil Pressure Goes Down As The Engine Temp Increases

I have an 88 Chevy C1500. It started showing low oil pressure about a year ago and I went with a heavier oil and oil pressure go a bit better.

Just changed the oil and now, when I start the engine cold, I show normal oil pressure. As the engine temp increases, the oil pressure goes down. When engine is fully warm, oil pressure shows 0 and "check gauges" light comes on.

Decided to put even heavier oil in but guy at parts house said it was probably the sending unit, not a worn out engine. I tend to agree because I drove it more and never hear any ticking or valve noise. Too cheap to replace the sending unit.

From the symptoms above, does thus sound right? Could the sensor somehow fail as engine temperature increases? Everything I read says oil pump failure is very rare.

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Chevrolet - 1500 :: New Clutch Will Not Disengage While Engine Is Running

I just installed a new Sachs flywheel and clutch on my 1995 Chevy 1500 4x4. Got everything back together, filled up tranny fluid and gear oil, bled the clutch till no air came out and it still won't shift while the engine is running. I can get it into reverse with a little grinding when in 4H, but that's it. The stick moves freely when the engine is not running. Checked the master cylinder and it is moving just fine. I have checked and did not install the clutch plate facing the wrong way. Any other guesses on what I can do before I have to drop the transmission again and redo the whole install?

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Chevrolet - 1500 :: 1996 Chevy Engine Hard To Start When Cold

I have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.

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Chevrolet - 1500 :: 1999 - Hesitate / Engine Light Reads Random Misfire

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Chevrolet - 1500 :: 2003 - Reduced Engine Power Light Along With P1516 Fault Code

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Here is the video i was referring to in comparison - YouTube

It sort of sounds like this but a little less intense. Its definitely knocking but not as loud as the video. It does it all the time, not only when its cold but when its warm too... Its always sounded like that but I haven't ever paid any attention to it.

Anyways... after a whole day of reading about gas and octane and all that fun stuff I am not sure whether to try midgrade or primium gas...

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I have an '01 Grand AM GT, 6 cyl 3400 engine.

It over heated about a week ago, coolant was low so I added more. Around that time I noticed white smoke/exhaust coming out as well. There was no odor to it so at first I thought nothing of it.

After a few days, the coolant reservoir was low again. On my way home one night I noticed an engine knock that sped up and slowed down with the RPM's but didnt get louder or quieter. Fortunately, the next day the Passlock system kicked in and I havent been able to start my car in a week.

I finally figured out the passlock issue (BCM was getting water in it from somewhere, cleaned off the connector pins and it started right up! found that fix somewhere on AF)

I changed the oil and the engine knock is still there. Now its a little more prominent and the engine was shaking tonight. Took out the spark plugs and they look and smell like they have oil on them. From what I've read so far it seems like it could be a valve cover gasket and/or the head gasket.

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My 2001 Corolla w/80k developing a considerably loud spark knock/engine pinging noise under acceleration. It throws no codes but pings like crazy and it never used to. It's happened gradual over a long period of time. I've cleaned the throttle body and have done all regular tune up items with no improvement. It doesn't ping at all on 93 octane, does some on 89 and terribly so on 87. Why is this? Does the 93 octane just act a a richer mixture of fuel to alleviate the ping? Should this sign point me in the direction that it's definately a lean issue causing the pinging?

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Silverado :: 2001 - Service Engine Light On For A Long Time - P0446 Code

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