Chevrolet - 1500 :: 1999 - Engine Just Died When Driving At About 40 Mph
Dec 9, 2013
1999 Chevrolet Silverado 4.3 ltr ....
I was riding along the other day at about 40 mph and my engine just DIED. No sputtering, jerking, lurching, etc.. I have a 1999 Silverado 1500 4.3.
Since then I've tried swapping the fuel filter out. When I took the old one off I did the blow test and could barely get a bit of air through it. Put in a brand new one. Still won't start. It cranks but it won't turn over. It's like it is starved for gas I suppose.
All electrical faculties are functioning seemingly normal. (Of course I have to charge the battery every time I want to try and crank it because it doesn't charge itself because IT WON'T CRANK!)
I've had to change the fuel pump twice in the past 2 years. The last time was about 5 months ago.
For the past week or two my "Change Engine Oil" light has been on even though I've had my oil changed a month ago.
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Alright. I'm a handyman by trade but have only done regular maintenance on my vehicles - I'm no expert. I've searched several forums for this information but have found 1000 different answers, mostly for other makes and models. My truck is a 1998 Chevy Cheyenne 1500, 5.0L V8, 137k miles, last tune up at 110k miles. Use valvoline oil explicitly, and change every 4k miles.
I got into my truck this morning, it turned over, and then died. The gauges all activated and displayed adequate oil pressure, battery power, etc. My RPMs got to 1000 for a second and then back to zero. I tried pumping the gas pedal a bit and nothing changed. It will do the same trick over and over with no difference based on time in between.
So I pulled the air filter off and changed the spark plugs and wires. The spark plugs were moderately worn and two had some corrosion. I used the correct gap on my gauge (.06 or .6, don't remember) and I've done spark plug changes a few times in different vehicles. I'm pretty sure it was done correctly. Also, I noticed that the coolant was low, so I filled it up, and added a quart of oil.
No luck. Exact same thing is happening. I really want to avoid electrical issues (don't we all!) and would like to check other things first...
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1991 chevy silverado 1500 4.3 ... Cruising at 55 down highway truck died for 2-3 seconds only to refire itself. After doing so for a few days it wouldn't start at all. Changed fuel pump,fuel filter and all spark plugs. Now runs fine until I shut it off briefly. Then it stalls on me on 3rd,4th and 5th gears. Bucks badly. Is it a fuel issue or something to do with starting it while it's warm. Also it runs good with the check light ON. Soon as it goes off it starts shutting off and refiring itself when I give it gas.
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Chevy 1999 tahoe 5.7 vortec ... Car hesitates engine light reads random misfire at auto zone. Took to dealer said 10 degrees out of time on his diagnostic machine. Replaced just about every thing on engine dealer said he couldn't fix because he couldn't adjust distributor, I told him on my car that you couldn't adjust timing from distributor, who is right?
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2004 1500 5.3 low oil pressure after using Lucas engine stop leak. No pressure at idle just below 40 when driving. Replace the sending unit and pressure improved for about a day. Just had a manual pressure gauge hooked up and it shows the same as cluster. No engine noise at all. I was informed that using Seafoam or another solvent could loosen up build up and cause damage. Trying to find out if using an engine flush machine may support. I am assuming that the cause of the low oil pressure is due to build up from using several qt of the stop leak over a four months. I am the only owner and I have always changed the oil according to schedule and have always used Valvoline synthetic.
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My truck it's shakes the dash shakes the steering wheel shakes whenever driving below 20 miles an hour it's stops or I can't tell it shakes. What causing this? My 1999 4/4 Chevy silverado...
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I have a 1992 Chevy 1500 5.7L V8 with 167,000 miles that is running hot. When I drive the vehicle the temperature quickly rises to just about 250 degrees and hovers just under the "red" zone. It never fully overheats, even on longer drives (50+ miles). It seem to run just fine otherwise. It is not leaking coolant and I have not had to fill the radiator. My first thought was that the thermostat was bad, but wouldn't that be an "all or nothing" issue? Where should I start looking for the problem? It has been going on for about 3 weeks, and I want to get it resolved quickly.
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I have a 95 chevy silverado. 305 with an automatic transmission. I was driving down the street at about 30mph when the power went out on me.
The engine stayed on and all lights stayed on. I could rev the engine but the truck wouldn't move.
I then had a friend tow to my house and i let it sit overnight trying to decide what to do next.
The next day I went out and started it and it and was able to drive it again for a short distance at low speed and then it did the same thing again.
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2004 F-250. 6.0 I was driving down the road when the engine dies. It was like I had turned off the key. When I tried to restart it, it was no click, no starter sound, nothing. The glow plug light remained on, even while turning the key over. What could cause this?
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My 1992 Chevy truck started surging or revving up when in park. It will tac to 1000 rpm's then go back down - up and down. It won't barely drive down the road. Didn't know if this is a fuel pump problem or something more serious. We've replace several parts that were described on the internet as "could be the problem", but nothing has worked.
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Driving down the road, vehicle lost all electrical power and died. There doesn't appear to be any juice at all to start it. The battery is fine (along with the terminals), the starter is okay too (although I don't see why that would affect total electrical flow). There were not any alarms on the vehicle. Is it the fuse box (negative terminal) or possibly the alternator? The alternator had been charging, and the battery showed that it had juice left in it. What would cause the vehicle to just die like that, in the middle of driving it? It's an LS type blazer with a 4.3 L engine.
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I have an 88 Chevy C1500. It started showing low oil pressure about a year ago and I went with a heavier oil and oil pressure go a bit better.
Just changed the oil and now, when I start the engine cold, I show normal oil pressure. As the engine temp increases, the oil pressure goes down. When engine is fully warm, oil pressure shows 0 and "check gauges" light comes on.
Decided to put even heavier oil in but guy at parts house said it was probably the sending unit, not a worn out engine. I tend to agree because I drove it more and never hear any ticking or valve noise. Too cheap to replace the sending unit.
From the symptoms above, does thus sound right? Could the sensor somehow fail as engine temperature increases? Everything I read says oil pump failure is very rare.
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I just installed a new Sachs flywheel and clutch on my 1995 Chevy 1500 4x4. Got everything back together, filled up tranny fluid and gear oil, bled the clutch till no air came out and it still won't shift while the engine is running. I can get it into reverse with a little grinding when in 4H, but that's it. The stick moves freely when the engine is not running. Checked the master cylinder and it is moving just fine. I have checked and did not install the clutch plate facing the wrong way. Any other guesses on what I can do before I have to drop the transmission again and redo the whole install?
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I have a 2001 Chevy 2wheel drive 4.3 V6 Pickup with a long lasting engine knock. I use it only to haul trash and building materials, maybe once every other week. The knock is sporadic. If I take a long trip and drive on an interstate highway the following morning upon start-up the truck will knock heavily and continue to do so as long as it is running. If I take the truck for a short local trip, the following morning it will start with no knock and only start knocking after driving maybe 10 miles. If I drive only short trips, the truck will almost always start without knocking and only knock once it is fully warmed up. I purchased this vehicle from my brother who drove it this way ever since he purchased it at a salvage auction (full of dents and some damage) who put over 20,000 miles on it with this same engine knock.
Other than the dents, the truck is in great shape, no rust, and has 118,000 miles on it. I would like to keep this thing because it was very cheap and I only use it sporadically. So, I'd like to know if I'm going to eventually have to put a motor in it or if there is some small fix I could make to stop this knocking sound. The sound: It is heavy. It sounds bad. It knocks along with the rpm of the motor. My brother, who is also a great mechanic, thinks it may be piston slap or something in the valve system. I've also had a mechanic listen to it. He thinks it's a rod bearing or wrist pin. What I don't understand is how could it be any of those things when it makes a difference how I drive it the last time it was used? Could it be something simple like a vacuum issue, knock sensor or crank sensor?
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Having issues with the gauges in my truck. Usually only in the mornings, the tach will quit working and the speedo will go to 70 or 80 (this morning 100), the check gauges light comes on and the tranny is stuck usually in 3rd (auto). The indicator light for the gearshift (P,R,D,3,2,1) also goes out. I swapped out the fuel injector spider a while back and that's when the problem began.
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I have a 1996 Chevy Cheyenne pickup with a fuel injected small block that has 50k miles. Earlier this summer the truck developed a problem where it is very hard to start when cold (after sitting overnight or after sitting for many hours on my flat driveway). When the engine is cold (say the first start of the day) I can only get it to start by giving small bursts of cranking power to the starter. That is, it won’t start if I hold the key in the cranking position but is more likely to start if I give it a short burst of cranking power (when I hold the key in “start” position) for a second or two.After the first start of the day, the engine runs fine and subsequent starts are quick and normal. The “Check Engine” light is not on and there are no trouble codes…. Other than hard starting there are no issues with engine performance.
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can i adjust idle on car, seems to be running faster without using gas pedal.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Suburban. The blower fan for the heater/AC was only working on high so I replaced the resistor and relay at the same time. Still no change so I replaced the switch and 30 amp fuse. The first three settings worked but not the high. I checked continuity of the wires between the switch and relay and they were fine. I then thought it might be the blower fan which I replaced but still not working on high.
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I have a 2003 Chevy 1500HD 6.0L 4x4. I've recently started getting the "Reduced Engine Power" light along with the P1516 Fault code. I've checked all the wires going to the TAC Module, TPS, and MAP, all appear to be in good condition. The Throttle Body is clean and the "flapper moves freely with no sticking. I only have this issue when it is warm outside. Recently we've had fairly code days between 32-50 degree weather but on the few days that it has gotten warmer, I've had the issue. Since it seems to only happen when its warm, I believe it to be a moisture issue, but I'm not sure.
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So the other day I was driving to my storage locker about 30 miles away. All of a sudden my rpms would shoot up to 2000 rpms then back down to 1500 . Slowly they would go up higher every time. On my way back I was about 2 miles away and I lost 3rd and 4th a presume. I would be going 20-25 and it felt like it would be shifting up to third but would shift down to 2nd running 3500 rpms. I had to go 20 the rest of the time. Finally I got home and realized my dipstick tube wasn't in the tranny and must have lost oil. So I got it back in and added more. Thought it was the filter and oil so dropped the pan and replaced it. Still nothing.
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While driving at night, my battery and break light came on on the dashboard. About 50 minutes later, my car can no longer travel faster than 5mph. The engine was not able to rev up when it is in Drive, but it was able to rev up the when I put it in Park or Neutral. Finally it died, while traveling at 5mph.
Had a friend jump started the car, but was not able to travel over 5mph. Then it died shortly.
So is this the alternator? I'm hesitant to think it is the alternator, because the engine was able to rev up when it is in Park and Neutral.
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