Chevrolet - 1500 :: 1998 V8 Turned Over And Then Died
Oct 3, 2013
Alright. I'm a handyman by trade but have only done regular maintenance on my vehicles - I'm no expert. I've searched several forums for this information but have found 1000 different answers, mostly for other makes and models. My truck is a 1998 Chevy Cheyenne 1500, 5.0L V8, 137k miles, last tune up at 110k miles. Use valvoline oil explicitly, and change every 4k miles.
I got into my truck this morning, it turned over, and then died. The gauges all activated and displayed adequate oil pressure, battery power, etc. My RPMs got to 1000 for a second and then back to zero. I tried pumping the gas pedal a bit and nothing changed. It will do the same trick over and over with no difference based on time in between.
So I pulled the air filter off and changed the spark plugs and wires. The spark plugs were moderately worn and two had some corrosion. I used the correct gap on my gauge (.06 or .6, don't remember) and I've done spark plug changes a few times in different vehicles. I'm pretty sure it was done correctly. Also, I noticed that the coolant was low, so I filled it up, and added a quart of oil.
No luck. Exact same thing is happening. I really want to avoid electrical issues (don't we all!) and would like to check other things first...
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1999 Chevrolet Silverado 4.3 ltr ....
I was riding along the other day at about 40 mph and my engine just DIED. No sputtering, jerking, lurching, etc.. I have a 1999 Silverado 1500 4.3.
Since then I've tried swapping the fuel filter out. When I took the old one off I did the blow test and could barely get a bit of air through it. Put in a brand new one. Still won't start. It cranks but it won't turn over. It's like it is starved for gas I suppose.
All electrical faculties are functioning seemingly normal. (Of course I have to charge the battery every time I want to try and crank it because it doesn't charge itself because IT WON'T CRANK!)
I've had to change the fuel pump twice in the past 2 years. The last time was about 5 months ago.
For the past week or two my "Change Engine Oil" light has been on even though I've had my oil changed a month ago.
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1991 chevy silverado 1500 4.3 ... Cruising at 55 down highway truck died for 2-3 seconds only to refire itself. After doing so for a few days it wouldn't start at all. Changed fuel pump,fuel filter and all spark plugs. Now runs fine until I shut it off briefly. Then it stalls on me on 3rd,4th and 5th gears. Bucks badly. Is it a fuel issue or something to do with starting it while it's warm. Also it runs good with the check light ON. Soon as it goes off it starts shutting off and refiring itself when I give it gas.
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I have 1997 chevrolet Silverado k1500. When I turned the key the other day, there was no electrical power. No gauges. No lights. I checked the battery and terminals and those are fine. When I turn the key slightly the (P) park illuminates but when i turn the key further it goes out. Then there is a buzzing sound from just to the right of the brake pedal. When I depress the brake pedal, the buzzing ceases but then a relay from under the hood in the relay center buzzes. Then when I turn the lights on, all buzzing ceases. But, the lights are not illuminated. I switched the buzzing relay with the a/c relay but that did nothing. I am wondering if there is a main relay that controls all the electrical power?
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I own a 1998 Chevy K1500 Silverado. About a year and a half ago my interior lights stopped turning off. I found that the only way to make the lights go out is to pull the interior light fuse. With the fuse pulled my lights will go out when the key is in the off position. With the key in any position besides off and the radio on my cab lights are on half bright. If I turn off the radio or pull the radio fuse the lights go out. My mechanic and I both investigated this and came up with the same answer: the Keyless Entry Module. After living with no cab lights for a year and a half (in northern New Hampshire) I broke down and paid the 180 bucks for the "Remote Function Actuation Module" (I had to take my dash apart and get the part number off the old module to figure out which one of three or four possible modules was used in my truck). Now that I have replaced the module I still have the same problem. If it's not the module then what is causing my lights to stay on all the time with the fuse in or come on half bright with the fuse pulled?
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I have a 5.0L with around 144k mileage. I noticed a reasonably severe leak of anti-freeze the day after I had the oil changed at a shop (coincidentally?); nothing out of the ordinary on that day. The temp's have never showed as being beyond normal. I saw that there was a bit of weeping from the water pump, so changed that believing that the gaskets might be the real culprit (third pump on this truck). I re-filled the system with fluid (green silicate as the system had been modified several years back), ran the engine, and found that there is still a leak, not as severe, but most definitely bad. It honestly appears to be dripping at the oil pan gasket, just left of the crank on the lower end. The location doesn't really seem logical to me.
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I have a 98 Express conversion van and when I start the van and pull away the van has trouble shifting between first, second, and third. It acts like it hiccups before it changes gears. I have to manually shift between the first few gears until I get to 55-60 miles an hour, once I get there and slow the van back down it will automatically shift like normal. I will not have any other issues until I turn the van off, as soon is I turn it off something resets and I will have to get it up to 55 again to get whatever it is to click in to get it to shift properly again. I can't figure it out?
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I have a 1998 Chevy K1500 4x4 which is experiencing issues on two fronts: brakes and general operation.
For the brakes, over the last couple years, we have replaced just about every part of the system, including - master cylinder - calipers - brake lines. In addition, in the last week, I worked with a local mechanic to bleed the lines and he turned the rotors as well. The result is that while the truck does stop, the pedal height is still really high and feels like there's no pressure until the pedal's nearly to the floor. I get the feeling that if I needed to stop abruptly or at a higher speed than 35mph, I wouldn't be able to. I'm not sure what needs to happen next.
As to the general operation: the first time I start the truck on any given day, it fires up and runs smoothly. If I take it across town, however, and put it in the park, it gasps, sputters, and dies. It is then very difficult to get the vehicle to start again--usually, I have to push the gas pedal all the way to the floor and grind the starter until the engine turns over. After that, I have to keep my foot on the accelerator for 15-30 seconds at around 3000 RPM as the truck shudders and lurches, until it smooths out. Once I put it into drive or reverse, however, it dies, unless I am quick to push the accelerator again. Until recently, the truck had only been driven four times in the last two years or so. So far, I have: - replaced the air filter - added fresh gas (to the old) - added an engine treatment (Sea-Foam) Everything I have done is stuff that needs to be taken care of anyway, and I want to take care of all the little things before I take it to a dealership to have a full diagnostic run on it. I also plan to have an oil change done on it this week.
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I have a 1998 chevy blazer v6 about 127000 miles on it. When I go and start up car the car starts right up. If I turn car off it won't start back up so i give it a little gas it starts right back up. There is no check engine light...
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It's a no crank, no start issue. Battery is only a few months old and tests fine (800CCA,) starter is only 2 months old and we've pulled it out a couple times to have it tested and it's fine. Positive and negative battery cables are also fairly new (last spring.) I've tested pretty much every fuse and relay in the truck that had to do with the starter, etc. My brother has tested the resistance on most of the cables and wires (battery cables, alternator, starter, etc.) Anti-Theft has been tested as well.
Now, here's the odd part. When the key is turned, the starter clicks, but it doesn't turn the engine... at all. About the only thing I haven't tested is to see if the engine is locked up (which would really, really suck.) Now, this is an L76, 6.0L engine. It has D.O.D and variable valve timing, so the issues may be different than the 5.3 or 4.8.
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I have a 97 chevy and the only way to start it is to jump the starter relay, not sure if it is the key switch ot the nuetral saftey switch.
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts (sorry, not to up on my car lingo here lol)
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
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I have a 1997 Chevy C1500 with about 85k miles on it. I had the breaks checked and replaced over a year ago and this problem is pretty recent. When I got the brakes done I had the pads replaced on the front disks and I had the back drum pads and some brake part replaced that was inside the drum. Looked like a little hydraulic piston of sorts...
My issue is my ABS light comes on from time to time for no apparent reason at all (at least that I notice). I can be just sitting at a stop light and I will notice it comes on, stays on, then randomly will go off. The car seems to break fine, especially at higher speeds (30-70mph). On occasion however at low speeds (5-15mph) when coming to a some what sudden stop my brakes seem to skip? Kind of feels like a grinding feeling. No gravel or slick road, just plane ol pavement. I think this is the ABS system but Ive only ever driven one other car with ABS breaks that the I believe the ABS system activated while stopping on ice and it felt the exact same.
I have not noticed if the light comes on during these low speed stops, as I am just now putting all these pieces of a puzzle together to figure out if something is really wrong with my ABS system or if its just a sensor or something.
I would like to have some knowledge or information in case I have to take it to a mechanic to have it looked at. The last people (Just Breaks) I took it to really tried to screw me over. After they worked on it the Emergency break light was on and his fix was to just "unplug" the sensor. I said Heck no! Fix it! after three bleeds it tripped the sensor off. So I am a bit hesitant to have them looked at after that experience.
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Infrequently (once every couple weeks) my 2002 Suburban won't start. The starter seems to work properly as the engine tries to turn over and even seems to initially start for a fraction of a second but then dies. If I wait 10 to 30 minutes it will usually start without a problem. This problem does not seem to be related to outside temp, recent use or car position. After dealing with this occasionally inconvenient problem for months I took the car to a service shop and was told that if they could not reproduce the problem that trying to fix it would be a wild goose chase. When the problem occurred again I took it to another shop who kept the car for 3-4 days but was unable to reproduce the problem.
They suggested that there was a problem with the fuel pump but did not want to replace it unless they were sure that was the problem. I then spoke to the Chevy dealership shop who also said it was most likely the fuel pump. In my frustration dealing with this problem I took the car back to my local shop and ask them to replace the fuel pump ($800). Unfortunately, the intermittent problem has persisted and I'm not sure what to do next. I did have an after market remote ignition added a number of years ago and took it back to them to see if this could be related and they said no way. I have also wondered about the security system being a problem in that my rear hatch cargo door does not lock even though the other doors lock normally.
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Car: 1993 Chevy C 1500 (2WD) manual transmission Background: The car sat unused in a garage for 2 weeks (no problems before this) the first drive after its break, the pickup almost felt like it was slipping and power was not getting to the wheels. The vibrating began the next day. The vibrating is very obvious and unpleasant under acceleration at approximately 2000 RPMs in any gear. Grease was injected via grease zerk into the center carrier bearing area and the vibrating was marginally better. Today the back end of the truck was lifted up and put into gear and brought up to 30 MPH. The pickup was then lowered and a test drive revealed that the vibrating was considerably diminished.
An inspection of the drive shaft reveals:no vibrating in neutral the U-joints are not loose or leaking; the drive shaft has 2 small dents which are countered on the opposite side by weights;the drive shaft will move up and down ~1 inch or less if pushed in bench press fashion near the carrier bearing;the drive shaft does not move in the direction of the length of the vehicle;the drive shaft will rotate freely 1/16th to 1/8th of a turn before it is stopped by the back of the transmission or the rear differential; no mud clods in wheel wells;new tires properly inflated.
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1992 WT pick up 263,000 miles had new head gasket installed valves lapped and tune up it was doing it before and does get better when truck warms up, but still can hesitate at times. When cold you have to feather gas pedal to truck accelerating, you can hear truck motor pop through throttle body but will continue to speed up.
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My 02 silverado has started making a bubbling sound when I accelerate. The sound is coming from under the passenger side dash.
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I drive a 1993 Chevrolet 1500 v6, 2wd. I have changed every part I can think of related to the fuel system. When I try to accelerate, the engine hesitates, it gets louder, and my truck will jerk. Sometimes, however, it is responsive. Often times, it will be responsive for a few minutes and start to decelerate.
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Just got a 1990 k1500 with the 4.3 v6 and 5 speed and it backfires. A buddy told me it was shooting flames out of my exhaust. What does that mean?
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Year: 1999Make: Chevrolet
Model: Silverado 1500 LS
Issue: Bad Transfer Case
Late model 99 Chevrolet Sliverado 4x4 with push button transfer case. At the end of last winter the transfer case began a grinding-noise when attempting to go from 2H to 4H.
I have a great mechanic who has proven both his skill and honesty to me a few times now. I took the truck in for diagnosis. His hope was that the electronic transfer may be faulty but unfortunately found metal shavings when he went to check the lubricant in the transfer case.
Diagnosis: Bad Transfer Case - Replacement necessary.
Mechanic has recommended a salvaged transfer case from reputable salvage dealer.
I have sourced a rebuilt transfer case with manufacturer warranties from a "major parts chain" for approximately 1/3 more cost.
My debate: The truck (while very late model), has a rebuilt engine that has less than 50k miles on the rebuild. I have expectations that I will continue to drive and maintain this truck for a very long time.
Although I am always aligned with less cost, my first response is that the rebuild from "major parts chain" is warrantied and far less likely to require a replacement in the remaining life of the vehicle.
However I am also uncertain how to evaluate the existing transmission. Presumably it has >100k. Is there a risk in pairing an OEM rebuilt transfer case with a transmission this old?
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Overhaul trans, new old pump, but doesn't engage in drive. Reverse and all three low work fine. Drive will only work when rpm's are applied. But without any power.
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