Chevrolet - 1500 :: 1995 Silverado Diesel Won't Move When Put In Drive And Press Accelerator?
Aug 18, 2012
I have a 1995 Silverado Diesel 4X4 with 145K miles. I only drive about once a week to take trash to the dump. It's been running great until yesterday. I put in drive and went to pull out of my drive way and truck won't move. It makes a terrible sound in the rear of the truck but won't budge. I have checked transmission fluid level and appears to be good. I say appears because my drive way is on a steep incline and it's backed in, bed on the down side of hill.
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I have a 95 chevy silverado. 305 with an automatic transmission. I was driving down the street at about 30mph when the power went out on me.
The engine stayed on and all lights stayed on. I could rev the engine but the truck wouldn't move.
I then had a friend tow to my house and i let it sit overnight trying to decide what to do next.
The next day I went out and started it and it and was able to drive it again for a short distance at low speed and then it did the same thing again.
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I have an 03 Escape that is very difficult to start after it rains, if I open the hood and let it dry out for a few days it starts fine, however if I put it in drive or reverse and press the gas it will not move... if I hold the brake while it is in gear and give it gas it does not rev up, however if I put it back in neutral or park it revs up. I normally cover the hood with a tarp to prevent this from happening however I was shutting the tarp in the door and a lot of water got in the floor board of the truck I sucked it all out, that night the radio started playing all on its own, I came out to the truck turned the radio off it stop went back in came back a while later and it was on again, so I pulled the fuse... but there are two buttons that stay lit on the radio the preset button 1 and 2 stay on all the time and I can not figure it out either. This is my beach truck I only use it for that purpose..however it is fall fishing time and I really want to go...
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I have an old base model 2001 Silverado, so manual everything. Here's my problem-- the air direction control knob (feet, defrost, face, etc.) is stuck on defrost. Literally stuck. Obviously, the knob attaches to and is supposed to turn a metal rod that then changes the direction of the air flow, but the rod will not turn at all...I even detached the knob and tried to turn it with a pliers! The climate control and fan speed knobs both work. What might be causing this?
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The truck is parked in the drive. I noticed when the truck had been parked in the drive I noticed that the tail lights came on and then about 20 seconds later turned off. I checked that the ignition was off, doors were completely closed, etc. It has happened several times. I'm worried the there is an electrical problem that might drain the battery.
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I've got a noise that has me puzzled on my 1995 Chevy C1500 (2wd). I hear a mid to high pitched noise when I'm driving at between 45 and 55 mph (70-90 kph). It varies in pitch depending on the speed I'm going, starts at around 45 and goes away above 55, and also tends to go away if I lift off the gas. The sound occurs in any gear, but always at the same speeds. My leading suspect is the differential, but I haven't ruled out anything yet. I pulled the differential plug and the fluid isn't very dark.
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My 1995 chevy c1500 cuts out at idle or the moment the brakes are applied to shift into drive. I replaced the passenger wheel cylinder and bled the brakes and it ran fine for a few hours, then the idle problem stated again. I have check the map senor and a few other electronic component as my mechanic said the problem " might be electrical."
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I have a '95 Chevy K1500 5.7 and am wanting to install a freeze plug block heater, but I'm having problems knocking out the existing freeze plug and would like some hints. It is located directly behind the oil filter, so I'm having problems getting enough leverage.
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I have a 1995 Chevy Silverado 1500 Ext. Cab Z71 4x4 that I've had since '97. Last year it started over-heating, the temperature stays exactly where it is supposed to when I'm running down the highway, but starts to over-heat when I slow down to make a turn (up to about 230), but cools back down at an idle. The Truck has a standard 5.7L TBI 350
Trying to remedy this problem I've changed the thermostat 4 times (with a 160, 180, and 195), changed the radiator, changed the map sensor (thinking that it might be leaning the fuel out to much), changed both temperature sensors, replaced the water pump 3 times (the 3rd time I ordered a Flowcooler waterpump from Summit), changed the instrument cluster and computer thinking it might be electrical, replaced the catalytic converter (thinking it might be restricted), I even replaced every hose on the motor, I then installed a brand-new GM 5.7L 350 crate engine but it did the same thing.
After installing the new engine I replaced the knock sensor, the O2 sensor, changed the throttle body (with one from another motor i had for my son's '94), replaced the distributor, replaced the injectors, checked and made sure there wasn't and blockage in the center intake, cut the exhaust at the catalytic converter just to make sure there was no restrictions.
I recently tried a manual temp gauge just to see if the motor was actually getting hot, which it is.
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I have a 1995 4X4 Chevy Silverado. Well tonight the lower radiator hose came off, and all the coolant drained out while my wife was driving it around town. She noticed that the temp gauge spiked, and tried to get home. The truck stalled, was able to restart it for a moment, stalled again and now when we try to start it up there is a low spinning noise coming from the area around the starter. I think it might be the starter trying to engage the flywheel. My question is whether or not this could because the motor has seized, or is there another symptom that could potentially make this noise.
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My 95 chevy 1500 pickup is having fuel pump issues. Somewhere between the relay and the sending unit. Pulled the tank, and put power directly to both the pump and the sending unit. They both run. Put in new relay, still not turning on the pump. Do not know if this is related, but the switch to turn on the interior light when you open the door does not work on the drivers side door. If I pull on the switch the light will come on.
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Overhaul trans, new old pump, but doesn't engage in drive. Reverse and all three low work fine. Drive will only work when rpm's are applied. But without any power.
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I have a 1995 Chevy C1500 Silverado. The blower and heater work great when I start driving. After about 20 minutes of driving on high blower speed, the strength of air blowing out reduces drastically and eventually no air is blowing out of the vents. I can still hear that the blower is blowing air, but there is no air coming out of the vent. The Midas repair shop I frequent couldn't reproduce the issue on their short test drive (of course). They told me to bring it back to them whenever the problem occurs. I haven't had the opportunity because by the time I get out of work, they are closed and I am freezing to death every morning.
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Truck moves fine in reverse but won't move in drive it is an automatic transmission...
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I have a 1995 Chevy k1500 Silverado Z71, I am having problems with my tail lights where when my headlights are on and I hit the breaks the driver side tail light completely turns off, if I use the left blinker it blinks very fast up till I hit the breaks. When my headlights are off they still don't work properly but legal enough, the left blinker blinks in between fast and slow and when I use the brakes the left side works but very dim, the wiring is all original never tampered with, all I did was put aftermarket tail light covers on it which shouldn't affect anything. The problem usually comes and goes but this last time it lasted for 2 months and now everything works perfect, the problem will be back and I'm afraid I'll run out of luck and a cop will finally notice it.
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My 2005 chevy silverado 1/2 ton seems to be low a quart of coolant every 2-3 months. First alerted to this during a oil change, check it monthly and need to add a little to the reservoir every other month. The temp gauge never goes over half way. I do smell antifreeze after I shut the truck down after a significant drive, but only if I walk to the front of the vehicle.
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Me and the wife just now noticed this issue after about a week of owning this 6.0 f350 auto 4x4. Leaf spring front and rear. Long bed. Listing all this stuff because not sure if it matters.
Around 50mph if we drive normally about 1500rpm the truck seems to jerk a little as we climb in speed. If we get the truck into the 2000rpm range it goes away.
Not sure if it's suspension, transmission or engine. Any clue what it could be. ???
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I have a 2004 6.0 with the 5L110 transfer and torqueshift transmission. While test driving after installing everything, I didn't get 7 ft down the road and the tires locked up and she came to a dead stop. Now I only have reverse but I can still feel the tranny engaging into drive but will not move.
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Today my Windstar would not start, it only start if I press on the accelerator if I let go it will die, I'm thinking of gas pump?
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My 2005 Santa fe has a single knock when you press the accelerator, then between 60 and 70mph there is now a shake in the steering wheel. I have been told it is probably the CV joint and just wanted more input.
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I'm having an issue with my transmission. When driving it shifts just fine, but I have to let it accelerate slowly. If I press to hard on the accelerator pedal the engine ron races. So I ease up and it catches and slowly accelerates. For example going up hill, I press the accelerator and the car doesn't speed up, the engine races, so I have to just let the car slowly increase in speed by lightly pressing the gas pedal, no get up and go! Only occurs in 4th and 5th gears. What could be causing this. I have already flushed the gear oil as I had to replace the output shaft seal as it was leaking.
2000 Hyundai Accent 5 Speed Manual Transmission....
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