Cavalier - Engines :: 2002 - While A/C Is On Idles Widely - Constant Speed If A/C Turned Off
Aug 25, 2014
I have a 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier that recently is having a/c and engine problems.One problem is that when the a/c is on the car will idle very badly- possibly varying 300-400 RPM. It will do this until the air is turned off or it is given more gas.The second problem is when trying to keep the car at a constant speed with the a/c on the car will vary 200-300 RPM until the a/c is turned off or it is given more gas.The last problem is when the a/c is on and no more gas is given to the car the a/c will start to blow out hot air. However, when gas is given to the car (probably has to be at about 1500 RPM) the a/c will blow out cold air. The car is a 2.2L 4 cylinder. The car has had the check engine light on in the pass but I had cleared it (it was the o2 sensor) several times. But recently it has not been coming back on. I don't know if this has anything to do with it, considering it only happens with the a/c on, but I thought that I would mention it. The car runs fine without the a/c on (idles well and drives good at constant speeds).
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I have a 2002 Caviler. Somewhat recently the car has been not staying at a constant temperature. It will rise above the middle (where it would always just stay at until recently) a notch and then go down a notch below the middle. I have never replaced the thermostat and I have had it around 8 years and the car has around 60,000 miles. Did replacing the thermostat fix them?
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I have a 2002 camry with 212000 miles on it and just lately when driving at a constant speed 60 mph or over it starts to buck or jerk a little bit and you can feel it in the seat. I've had the throttle body cleaned and put in a new mass air flow sensor and it hasn't fixed it yet. What might be causing this? It doesn't do it when accelerating or slowing down.
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2002 Camry LE 4cyl. automatic. I bought this car with 7500 miles on it in 2010. It had been involved in a low speed parking lot collision and apparently the left front corner and front took the hit. It'd been repaired and looked like new when I bought it. It still had the factory tires on it, but they were 8 years old, so I put a set of new Kumho Solus' on it. This was a friend's mothers car, so I know the history of it.
The left front suspension has always felt odd to me. Nothing serious, but just "off." When backing up and turning it has a sort of wobbly feel on that corner at times. I've been assured by several mechanics that they can find no problems. It feels to me like maybe sometimes the strut piston sticks on that corner. Don't know if that ever happens or not, but that's the best description I can come up with!
It has always vibrated from 45 on up. It's not a hard shudder, but just a constant vibration at highway speed that you can feel in your feet and the steering wheel. I've had it balanced and re-balanced to no avail. Sometimes it gets a little better, sometimes worse, but it's never gone away. Recently it seems to be getting worse.
I put it up on jackstands and accelerated to 60, and it vibrates like the wheels are out of balance. Yesterday I replaced the Kumhos (they had bad road noise anyway) with Michelins. The Michelins cured the road noise problems and have a much better overall feel, but I've still got the balance problem.
Just put it up on jackstands again and spun it up, and I still have the same vibration!
What to look for? The car has just now turned over 35k miles. I'm wondering if the CV joint on that left side was damaged and is causing the vibration. I've got new wheels as well instead of the factory steel rims. Also, with the car up on stands, the wheels spin true. No bent hub, etc.
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I have a 1998 Dodge Stratus with 157,000 miles on it when I step on the brake the car idles very hard and wants to die. It has already died one time.It seems when I step on the brake the car wants to keep moving and its like it puts a strain on the engine.
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my 2001 cavalier overheats only when it idles, overheats in 3 to 5 minutes & the ac blows hot. As soon as you get moving again the car runs at normal temp and the ac blows ice cold. We changed the thermostat, coolant and belts, i'm not loosing any coolant. Looks like the fans are not coming on, I can not find a location for a fan relay switch, thought maybe we should change that before changing out the fans..Is there a relay switch?
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I've got a 2004 Cavalier and when the heater is turned on it makes a clicking noise (sounds like someone on a snare drum playing over and over again) You can feel it if you touch the bottom of the Heater/AC module on the passenger side of the car above your feet. It stops when you turn the heater control to the recirculation position.
My guess is it's the recirculation door actuator motor, but I can't find it through NAPA or any automotive parts online sites, what the Chevy part number is for this, and/or a parts blowup of the HVAC module? Also, the factory service manual I've got says that the entire HVAC unit needs to be drained of 134 and removed from the vehicle to replace this actuator, does it can be done without removing the entire unit? From the few pictures it shows of where the actuator is, that part appears to be near the top (that's why I'd like to see a parts blowup if possible).
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Last week my car started making a rattling noise whenever I turned it on and when I went over bumps or potholes in the road. It sounded like it was coming from the trunk latch or something. It also started squeaking- I knew it wasn't my breaks because I wasn't using my brakes when the squeaking happened. I finally realized my muffler is jiggling around, so I crawled under my car to check it out. There's a part on the left of the muffler right by the rear tire that connects the muffler to the under side of the car. It looks like something is missing- rubber or something that holds the pieces of metal there. Is this something I can find and fix myself? Or do I need to go to a mechanic? I was going to zip-tie it up, but there's not really anything to loop it through. Will my car be further damaged if I don't fix it soon? (2004 Chevy Cavalier)
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So I have a 1999 Cavalier..I drove it yesterday without issues but when I got up this morning to go to work, I turned the key to start it and it seemed as if there was a boom from the engine. The engine didn't start, but when I tried the key again, it started right up. I drove 35 miles to work, including some highway miles at 70 mph. What would that have been? Is it a sign of things to come?
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2003 Chevy Tracker (same as Suzuki Gran Vitara) v6 2.5L
For about a year, it has had belt squeal on starting, which lasts about 5 minutes..it's louder when AC was on..would go away with higher RPMs. Once the car was warmed though, no squeal. Ac has been working very well and blowing cold whole time. Finally it around to replacing belt, which was a difficult.
Tightened with an idler pulley type system(not spring loaded). Started it up, squealed a little on start, but went away..turned on AC and the squeal is horribly loud now and constant..high rpms only make it louder. Noticed that clutch engages fine, but spins inconsistently..like we'll the belt is slipping. It spins slow, fast, slow..etc. I can't tighten anymore as the tightening bolt is at the end of the channel, don't want to strip it. Also noted that it is about a bolt head width more tight than its previous position.
Surely changing the belt wouldn't cause the clutch to bite it would it?
Other notes...drives great when ac is not on. This is an acc only belt..ac,idler,power steering. Also, during the repair, antifreeze got on the pulleys..I cleaned them all around with generous spray of brake cleaner..they look clean.
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Do I have to pull out the complete switch assembly, or could it be some thing else?
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My airbag light flashes six times when I turn my car on. Then it remains on while I'm driving. I have no clue what this means.
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I have an '02 Chevy Cavalier. It was making a screeching noise when I turn for a while and now has started making a loud rythmic clunking noise all the time when the car is turned on. It gets louder and softer but never goes away. It is coming from the engine area.
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Sometimes (but not always!) when I turn my Prius (2008) off and open the driver door, there is a constant beep. There are no interior lights left on. I think whatever I am doing wrong might be draining the 12v battery as it keeps going flat.
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This is the code that comes up on my 2002 2.2 Cavalier. Camshaft sensor bank 1. After a lot of research I was led to believe it was most likely the upstream 02 sensor. Replaced it, engine light still on. Wipe codes, light goes off, turn off car, turn back on, light back on. What other possible problems could be causing the light to be on? It's been on the entire time I've had the car which is 3 years. I've had it e tested with the light on and it's passed with flying colors. It's up for an e test, actually I have 5 flipping days to figure this out, have it e tested and get a sticker for it.
I've been trying to figure it out for well over a month since I realized an e test was due and they've changed the way they do the tests now, they told me even tho the light most likely has nothing to do with the emissions they can't test it if the light is on period. I was told to start pulling fuses because it could be something as simple as a bad fuse. The car is in relatively good shape under the hood, no major problems and much of the car is still factory. No weird symptoms other then sometimes it will rev high at idle or low speed but as soon as I get to 4th gear it always balances out.
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I have a 91 735i, 4sp auto, 3.5lt. Usually around constant speed of 40-45 the tranny will downshift then up then downshift an sometimes it will downshift to 2nd which scares me thinking it might downshift to 1st an explode the engine or tranny. If I engage cruise control it does not downshift. This does not happen all the time but when it does it can be very severe with jerking and slamming into an out of gear. The trans has a dipstick and the fluid does not look bad. I replaced head gasket and it was doing great for about a month and then poof the downshifting started.
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My car (Nissan 1998) runs normally for miles. Then sometimes it just starts lurching while in motion when the gas is depressed and looses speed, as if not getting fuel. Previous times it dies after this. The last time I was on the highway going 70 and I pulled over before it lost power and died completely. Just had new brakes installed, new distributor, all new belts, and an oil leak fixed by a mechanic.
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Few weeks ago my battery light coming on when I am on the highway (1999 Chevy Cavalier). It wasn't coming on until I hit around 70-75 mph. It comes on and goes off. Then, several seconds later, it comes back on and goes back off. I replaced the belt and the first day driving, it didn't come back on. The next day though, it started again.
I also replaced the valve cover gasket because it was leaking oil and I thought maybe the belt was getting some oil on it. That does not appear to be the case, unless the oil is coming from somewhere else.
I have an old style voltmeter, nothing digital, and when I place the meter on the battery, it seems to have an adequate charge, but noticed something odd when I placed it on the battery while the car was idling. The thing was showing a greater voltage while running, somewhere around 14+ volts (can't remember exact reading).
But, occasionally, the needle on the voltmeter would just drop off to 0 and then suddenly come back up to around 14 volts, maybe a bit more. I don't know if it was the voltmeter not reading it right because it does not have clamps, it is just two pin shaped ends on the red and black wires. I was holding the pins onto the battery as tight and still as possible, so if it was correct, why would the voltage drop off like that?
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A friend has a '90 olds Ciera with the 3800 engine. The engine will quit running at a stoplight or almost any idle speed and then will be hard to start. May have to wait a few minutes before it restarts.
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I have a 1997 Toyota Hilux (unleaded, not diesel) and I'm looking for input as she keeps breaking down but no one is able to figure out the problem. While in gear and driving, the gas stops engaging and the speed slowly drops. The car stutters while slowing down but then if I switch gears or rev the engine it will stop. After some time this continues to happen more frequently (at all speeds) until the car eventually stops and dies. Try to restart and the engine will turn over but not start. After sitting for a night or so, though, she starts up and runs just fine. Thus no mechanics have been able to solve the issue!
Could be a fuel problem as the exhaust pipe makes a banging sound when this happens, but it could also be electrical.
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My fathers truck starts, runs, idles fine but once on the highway at constant speed, the engine misfires or hesitates causing a small buck or jerk but continues on down the road. The SES light is on. He took it to O'Reilly and they put some kind of computer on it and (I think) it said misfire in a cylinder. He replaced one of four O2 sensors, pickup in the distributor (not sure what this is called), wires, and plugs with no cure. This problem is very strange as again, it only does it a constant speed; truck runs fine at idle, acceleration, deceleration, startup, etc. There may be a slight sulfur smell during idle and there is a decrease in gas mileage.
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