Cavalier - Chevrolet - Code - Transmissions :: 2001 - P0742 Stuck Torque Converter Clutch
Feb 28, 2011
My girlfriend's 2001 cavalier has about 160k on it and about a week ago it started shifting harshly accelerating to highway speeds and the CEL came on along with the traction control/abs warning light. I pulled the OBD2 code and it was P0742, Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On. We took it to the transmission shop down the street the next day and they wanted $600 to diagnose. We called 'shenanigans' and decided she should take it to her regular shop. On the drive over the transmission shifted normally. Both shops noticed that the transmission cooler lines were rusty and seeping, but neither thought it was the cause of the problem. The shifting issue hasn't recurred even after a couple hundred miles during the week. She hasn't had the transmission fluid changed and doesn't know if it had been when she bought it about 80k miles ago. It seems to me that pre-emptively draining the fluid, changing the filter and refilling, especially to check for debris in the fluid, would make sense, especially if it was debris jamming the circuit that caused the error code in the first place.
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I have a 1997 Dodge Avenger ES that reads code P0743 Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid. I've replaced the transmission control module, and filter. I've called the Dodge dealership and asked if the new transmission control module needs to be programmed. The service department said "Possibly" I said "Well it's shifting better than before. If there wasn't any firmware on it what would it do?" He said "My guess it that the car wouldn't shift." I asked if the Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid visible once you remove the filter. He said "I'm not sure." Clearly, my car isn't going there. Then asked to be transfer to the Parts department to see if there was a part called Torque converter clutch solenoid. That answer was "No" there isn't a part listed called "Torque Converter Clutch Solenoid". What should I do or try?
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How can I fix the P0741 engine code? Vehicle has 100k mileage.
Some of the on and off symptoms: loss of power, doesn't go over 40mph on the bridge, rpm dramatically goes high at low speed, lower mpg.
I did a tune-up: [URL] .... 2Bplugs, engine, coolant, [URL] .... 2Bfluid, steering, ignition coils, short ram intake filter cleaned.
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I have a 2001 Montana with 140,000 miles on it. I bought it used five years ago. The transmission is going out. The shop did a scan and found the torque converter clutch is sticking on. What this is? Should I make the repairs or ditch the van?
Good points: four new tires in December 2013; body is great; and minor maintenance repairs.
Bad points: the air conditioning is broken and the heat is forever terrible.
The van is currently at my regular shop and they do not do transmissions so I do not have an estimate or more information about the problem.
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It's a 2001 Chevy cavalier. The key is stuck and won't turn the car off. Already have tried shaking the wheel and wd-40. The wipers won't work and the gauges won't turn on until I jiggle the key.
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Girlfriend got a 98 ex. got a CEL for a torque converter clutch circuit. Changed out the TCC and the light is still on. I don't know what to do next.
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Recently I had my check engine light come on in my car as well as a service light. My car is at 140,000 miles and I drive it around the county for work so I knew I would have some expensive repairs in my future. My stepdad disconnected my car battery and then reconnected it which caused the light to go out so my mechanic was not able to read the code to find the issue. (We did find that my service light was coming on right before my headlight went out so I replaced the bulb and have not had the service light come back on since.)
My mechanic let me know my catalytic converter pipe was rusting and falling on my exhaust and gave me an estimate for the cost of a new pipe, O2 sensor and labor charge. He quoted the catalytic converter pipe at $304.25 and with everything else involved, the total for my estimate came to $521.00.
I have read before that some people suggested possibly finding a used pipe at a salvage yard to save money on the repair. I called around and found a place that would sell it to me for around $100.00. I'm not handy with cars and know the bare minimum when it comes to repairs, so what I don't know is if it is safe to use a pipe from a salvage yard compared to buying a new one.
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Where is the plug on the transmission to disconnect the TCC solenoid? I am trying to diagnose a lockup issue and need to disable the clutch from engaging for a test run.
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I recently purchased this truck so I don't have any history on it. It's the V10 motor, automatic, 4 wheel drive, with a crew cab. I took it to Advance Auto to have them read codes and it came back with torque converter solenoid fault and 2 other codes related to that part. I didn't get to see the actual code numbers.
I've talked to 2 transmission shops and they said they could throw a solenoid pack into it, but that it might not even fix it. The truck drives fine, shifts fine, the tranny oil looks and smells fine, so I'm tempted to not worry about it until something else happens.
The truck has 217,000 miles on it...
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I picked up a 2015 gs350 f sport in atomic silver / black. I'm excited to pull out of the parking lot and get on the road! Yeah, not so much. As I take a turn onto the road I notice it's very sluggish, like starting off in third gear sluggish. I eventually get up to speed and wander if the floor mat is stuck under the pedal or something, whatever. anything but the car is broken.
I eventually get up to speed. Everything is fine. I don't accelerate hard because the the car only has 12 miles on it. Otherwise it drives like it should. Off the freeway and at a stoplight with an incline. Start to go, same thing. I pull over, turn the ignition off and back on. Car is fine.
So later that night (43 miles on the ODO) CEL and Trac off lights up. Car will not get up over third gear. Make it another 2 miles home and park it. I'm pretty distraught.
Took it to the dealership, don't know what they are but 2 fault codes came up. One for a shift solenoid and another having to do with the torque converter. Under 100 miles on the ODO!
So I'm with a red ES loaner car. Never seen it on a brand new car.
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I bought a 2001 Beetle with a 1.9 TDI Diesel engine, automatic transmission 200K miles. When sitting at a stoplight or even when just starting out in the morning the transmission won't engage. I have to bring the engine up to about 1600 RPM's then with a clunk it goes. After that it shifts fine. It even down shifts nicely when going up a hill. Now, if I am on the freeway with it and want to pass another car, it will unlock again and slip if I get on it to hard. It then will lock back in and go. Checked the transmission fluid and its full. (I still can't believe that can't put a stupid dip stick in new cars) I am trying to do all the possible cheap fixes first in hopes that it could be something easier then replacing the transmission.
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I went to drive my 1970 Nova today and after driving it for about 15 seconds it seemed to stick in second gear. I cannot get it to go into neutral to be able to put it into any other gear including reverse. The shifter is on the floor. I have no clue what is going on- If it's something with the linkage between the shifter and the transmission or something with the clutch. It has never acted this way before and gave no indication that a problem was on the horizon.
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So i went to put my car in gear and the clutch is loose. car turns on just fine. there is clutch fluid. I've never had this problem till this cold weather popped up.what do i do? wait till the car warms up? I can put it in gear when the car is off so idk why it does that.
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I have a 96 Chevy Cavalier with about 160k miles on it. Yesterday it started kicking kind of strangely from a dead stop to accelerating while in drive. This evening, after driving it both to and from work, when I backed in to a parking spot, it got stuck in reverse. The car was still pulling in drive and in reverse, it just seems like the gear shifter moves freely.
Idle seems fine, the vehicle just doesn't want to go into park or drive anymore.
Is this just as simple as the transmission being blown, or could there be another problem? Also, now that I've gotten the car turned off, it will not turn over again, since the vehicle won't shift into park.
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I have been driving a 2003 Chevrolet cavalier and the automatic shift is stuck and can only shift to neutral and drive since Thursday morning. It wont go up to reverse and parking and down to the other 3 shifts.
This first happened last April but somehow with the right grip or pressure was able to get back to all the other shifts. Since then it happened 2-3 times as I can remember and now could be getting worse.
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My name is Jason and I have a 2001 Dodge Ram 1500 with an automatic transmission. It has trouble shifting. I have to drop it down from D into 2 and then back into D to get it to shift out of second gear most of the time. If I have to stop ten times in a trip I have to manually shift it about seven or eight of those times. On top of that, sometimes while I'm driving it will slip into Neutral but it'll still be in the D position. This just started and has only happened a few times so far. My transmission fluid levels are fine. I'm trying to see if there is any other solution besides rebuilding or replacing my transmission.
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I have a 1999 Chevy Venture van with a 3.4l v6 in it, and am having a strange what seems to be either an electrical or transmission problem which I can explain pretty easily.
95% of the time after the van has been driven for 30 minutes and warmed up, I notice a strange chugging when it shifts from 1st to 2nd. The chugging gets less noticeable when it shifts into the higher gears. 2nd to 3rd, 3rd to 4th etc...
This is the strange part. If you put the vehicle in park and shut it off, and then restart it after it sits for 10 seconds or so the chugging is gone. It shifts beautifully. Could this be a problem with the computer or is it some kind of sensor resetting??
The computer is giving me a P0742 code. Which is "Torque Concerter Clutch Solenoid - Circuit Stuck on". I also have a code for the Mass Air Flow Sensor and Catalyst Efficiency which I think is related to other things.
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I have a 2003 Chevy Cavalier that I have owned since new. It has 340,000 miles and I want to get to at least half-a-million. My wife was driving it last week and it started with a very rough idle and ran rough for 5-10 minutes until it quit running for her in the bank line. I came to get her and the car and started it by giving it some gas, but the idle was rough and jagged. Feels like it missing and gasping for air. Running on the road home at 30mph it seems almost normal, until i slow to a stop. Went to have the codes read at Advance and Auto Zone only coming up with PO440 woe the EVAP system, which has been showing for 200K miles. Have a clean K&N filter but no other modifications. I've done a lot of work myself and also have a good mechanic, but I don't want to drop if off blindly. I'm thinking maybe the Fuel Pressure Regulator or the IAC Valve. Haven't looked at the throttle body yet. Where should I go from here?
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My daughter says that the AC on her 2001 Chevy Cavalier cuts off when she is idling.
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2000 Intrigue 144,000 miles.
When you first start it up, the vehicle won't move in any gear. After a while of idling, it may start to drive, but the engine RPMs are way too high for the corresponding speed that you're driving. 4000 RPMs to hold 45 MPH.
Could this be the input piston? I've heard those wear and then don't seal well, bleeding off fluid pressure. Torque converter?
Also, the one diagnostic code is P0742 - TCC stuck on. I realize that this could be unrelated to the vehicle not moving when cold.
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I have a 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier. I've been getting a pulsing vibration which feels like the left front. It starts at about 40mph and gets worse the faster I go. The vibration completely goes away with the slightest left turn on the freeway. It vibrates on acceleration and deceleration, in neutral and in gear (5spd manual). I've currently replaced the front struts, strut mounts, pads and rotors, left front wheel bearing, tie rod ends, had the front end aligned and the tires balanced.
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