When I start the car the fuel gauge sometimes goes past F and interferes with the water temp gauge. Also noticed recently that the RPM is not reading correctly.
View 5 RepliesI purchased a 90 Suburban and the fuel gauge reads low. I then changed the fuel pump and sending unit. The fuel gauge still reads low.
Then I noticed that all the gauges read low. Temp is low. Oil press is only a quarter up, the ammeter reads zero.
Driving on my original tank from dealer today from Upstate NY to NYC. On the way my C had 4 bars to begin then went to 3, then 2 after about 90 miles of traveling at avg of about 55mph. I watched the cruising distance go down to 1 but I still had 2 bars on my fuel gauge (and my crusing distance was conservative compared to my mpg reading the whole trip, which was hovering around 58mpg).
The gauge went from 2 bars to one flashing bar in about 1 minute. I pulled into a gas station about 2 miles ahead and put in about 5 gallons... this put the fuel gauge up to 3/4s or about 3 bars above the halfway mark. What gives? I know there are fuel gauge issues but I thought with two bars I would have had plenty of time before I needed to fill up on these roads with these mpgs.
My sister has a 98 chevy cavalier and it is sputtering i changed the fuel filter but that did not work.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2003 Ford Focus ZX5 automatic with 143k miles on it. Recently I've run into a problem with the speedometer and RPM gauges dropping down to 0, no reading. It is an intermittent problem and has no logical connection to any of the other functions of the vehicle (it can happen while the car is idling, in motion, upon startup, etc etc.) Everything else on the instrument cluster works perfectly fine, (odometer still reads correctly and works, gas gauge is fine, etc). I'm thinking maybe it is an electrical issue since the car seems to be in fine working condition other than that, even when it drops out. The gauges won't start reading again until I start the car up...and sometimes that is not a guarantee. I use this vehicle to commute locally 4 days a week and I've already put a lot of money into new components for the vehicle.
View 2 RepliesWhen I fill my gas tank (in other words, until the pump clicks off on its own) the dashboard gas tank gauge is at only at about 3/4 full. Itdoesn't seem to be the type of needle that shleps its way up after a few minutes. So I continue filling on my own until I have as close to a full tank as I can get without any overspill. What's up with that?
View 2 Replies1991 Ranger STX, 4.0. Had a leak from the rubber seal on the thermostat. Changed the thermostat (stat 195) and seal. Now my temperature gauge is not showing a constant reading, goes to half way and when the thermo opens the gauge falls down to a quarter. The gauge is cycling this way every time the thermo opens.
View 2 RepliesEvery time I turn the car on, the "from start" fuel economy reading resets to 15l/100k. After driving for a while it goes down to 4l/100k but then resets back to 15 once the car is turned off. Is there any way to get it to stay at what it finished at?
View 11 RepliesMy car dies when I come to a stop unless I gently press on the gas pedal while holding done the brake. What can cause this?
View 4 RepliesCar won't start after filling up with gas. I have tried a new fuel filter, new gas tank cap, checked for pressure on fuel pump. We have gottenit to start (but barely) when either hit gas tank with hammer or shake the back of the car, otherwise you have to set and wait 15-30 minutes before it will start and when it does it smells very weird (like it's flooded but an extra strange smell with it). I have seen a similar posting on here and someone suggested it might be a purge value problem. In talking with someone at auto store they didn't think this was the issue. I do have my check engine light on all the time and when checked the code , it said oxygen sensor. My two other Cavaliers have also had the oxygen sensor problem but it never did this with that code.
View 9 RepliesHad a directional bulb go out recently and replaced it without any problem. About 3 days ago it went again, I bought a 2 pack of bulbs - replaced it and drove on. Almost instantly right after I turned and signaled the right directional bulb blew again, I grabbed the extra bulb put it into plug and started car - first right turn with directional bulb blows again. I'm at a loss as to where this can be happening. Is this in the steering column or elsewhere, where do I even begin to look.
View 3 RepliesMy daughter says that the AC on her 2001 Chevy Cavalier cuts off when she is idling.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. I am having some issues with it.
When it first starts it idles really hard. The RPMs are up and if will try to accelerate without hitting the gas. This stops after the first minute.
The second part is that when stopped, but in drive, it idles hard. It does it though when the AC is turned off. You can see the RPM gauge go above and below the normal 500 RPM. If you turn the AC on then it levels out. It will occasionally idle hard with the AC on, but rarely and not as much.
The car drives well and is not overheating.
The cold air box is a black plastic box that sits forward of the engine/valve cover. It connects via black plastic tube to the air filter box on one end and to the engine on the other. I took it off it. 'Lo and behold it was full of oil.
View 1 Replies2003 Cavalier auto 116K miles - Car is sputtering and stalling at stoplights with a/c on. What can I check?
View 6 RepliesSo I'm driving to work this morning, 35 miles one way, and I get to my destination, or almost. 1999 Cavalier, automatic transmission, 215,000 miles.
As I get to the red light where I need to turn, it seemed as if it was not upshifting on its own. It is an automatic. I made the turn, then made another turn and as I pressed the gas, it seemed to do the same, not wanting to shift into second.
As I turned to go up to the second level of the parking lot, it gave up about 3/4 of the way up to level 2. Pressing the gas just revved the engine. I tried switching into 1, 2, back to D, even to R, but nothing worked. It is like it just gave up and decided the only thing that would work is neutral.
When I switch into gear normally, you hear that slight thud as it falls into gear, but when I try it now, nothing happens.
I have a 2001 Chevrolet Cavalier. I've been getting a pulsing vibration which feels like the left front. It starts at about 40mph and gets worse the faster I go. The vibration completely goes away with the slightest left turn on the freeway. It vibrates on acceleration and deceleration, in neutral and in gear (5spd manual). I've currently replaced the front struts, strut mounts, pads and rotors, left front wheel bearing, tie rod ends, had the front end aligned and the tires balanced.
View 2 RepliesRecently I had my check engine light come on in my car as well as a service light. My car is at 140,000 miles and I drive it around the county for work so I knew I would have some expensive repairs in my future. My stepdad disconnected my car battery and then reconnected it which caused the light to go out so my mechanic was not able to read the code to find the issue. (We did find that my service light was coming on right before my headlight went out so I replaced the bulb and have not had the service light come back on since.)
My mechanic let me know my catalytic converter pipe was rusting and falling on my exhaust and gave me an estimate for the cost of a new pipe, O2 sensor and labor charge. He quoted the catalytic converter pipe at $304.25 and with everything else involved, the total for my estimate came to $521.00.
I have read before that some people suggested possibly finding a used pipe at a salvage yard to save money on the repair. I called around and found a place that would sell it to me for around $100.00. I'm not handy with cars and know the bare minimum when it comes to repairs, so what I don't know is if it is safe to use a pipe from a salvage yard compared to buying a new one.
So, starting about 2 months ago my car started starting kind of hard and the CEL came on. It would crank for a few seconds, start to turn over but sound like it was going to sputter out, but ultimately turn over. It seemed to be exacerbated the longer the car sat between times running. I let the car sit for about a week while I was waiting for parts to come in to change out my front brakes, and now it won't start.
I hooked up my newly acquired OBD II reader and got the following DTCs:P0130 - O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1P0130 P - Same, P for PendingP0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A CKT Range/PerformanceP0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction
Based on my limited understanding, I would think something having to do with the last two codes would be why the car isn't starting, but it seems like it could also easily be something else not directly indicated by those codes. So what I'm wondering is, do I need sensors replaced, or is there something else that needs to be replaced on the car. The car has ~130k on the odo.
I recently bought an 2003 manual transmission Cavalier which looks and drives great, albeit for one (hopefully minor) issue:
The front end repetitively squeaks like a squeaky toy (does not sound like metal-on-metal) when driving. The squeaking is not constant ("Squeak....") but has a rhythm (Squeak....Squeak...Squeak...Squeak...Squeak). The tempo of the squeaking increases the faster I go and appears to be loudest (or most annoying) around 30 mph. In addition, some bumps will cause the squeaking to occur, but the squeaking will return to its original rhythm immediately afterward. The squeaking sounds similar/equal distance whether I'm driving or riding in the passenger seat.
1999 Chevy cavalier. Since 2010 Brake warning lights come on intermittently ABS, ETS (!)BRAKES, and traction. Brakes jerk the car forward a few shot times before car comes to a stop, car stops fine 90% of the time. Three different mechanics can not find anything wrong by looking at brakes and I'm lucky if they can drive it and have the problem happen which is basically every other day. New rotors were put on in 2010 twice first time they were warped, wheel cylinders replaced or whatever they do to them recently. Dealership said I needed new rotors I don't think they know.
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