Cavalier - Chevrolet :: 2004 - Replacing Door Jamb Switch?
Jan 4, 2012
It looks like the door jamb switch no longer pops open so I am wondering how in the world do I replace it? Someone suggested grabbing pliers and just pulling on it till the tabs break off and it comes out. Is this the correct way? This is a 2004 Chevy Cavalier and some of the symptoms of my problems include the radio not turning off when you open the door after getting out of the car. Nor do the dome lights come on when I open the door to get in.
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was wondering when I hook my fog lights up to my 03 cavalier do I need to install a switch or do they come on automatically with the headlights.
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I keep mine at 35.5 PSI. The door jamb sticker states 33 PSI.
After driving a few miles it climbs to 38-39 PSI (it was almost 85 deg. today while driving).
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What is the easiest (DIY) way to replace the Vacuum Actuator (switch?) in a 1995 Chev Blazer with an Automatic Transmission, 4WD?
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When working, all is OK. When not, I have no high or low beams, a weak and barely moving wipers with a lot of buzzing coming from wiper motor area and drivers door lock tries to lock (or at least the lock sound is coming from drivers door). The DRL's function normally. The problems are definitely interlinked and it is very intermittent and can come and go several times in a few minutes.
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Car won't start after filling up with gas. I have tried a new fuel filter, new gas tank cap, checked for pressure on fuel pump. We have gottenit to start (but barely) when either hit gas tank with hammer or shake the back of the car, otherwise you have to set and wait 15-30 minutes before it will start and when it does it smells very weird (like it's flooded but an extra strange smell with it). I have seen a similar posting on here and someone suggested it might be a purge value problem. In talking with someone at auto store they didn't think this was the issue. I do have my check engine light on all the time and when checked the code , it said oxygen sensor. My two other Cavaliers have also had the oxygen sensor problem but it never did this with that code.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. I am having some issues with it.
When it first starts it idles really hard. The RPMs are up and if will try to accelerate without hitting the gas. This stops after the first minute.
The second part is that when stopped, but in drive, it idles hard. It does it though when the AC is turned off. You can see the RPM gauge go above and below the normal 500 RPM. If you turn the AC on then it levels out. It will occasionally idle hard with the AC on, but rarely and not as much.
The car drives well and is not overheating.
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So i went to put my car in gear and the clutch is loose. car turns on just fine. there is clutch fluid. I've never had this problem till this cold weather popped up.what do i do? wait till the car warms up? I can put it in gear when the car is off so idk why it does that.
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My future mother-in-law has a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. Last night night when she tried to put it in gear, the car would not go in reverse or drive. She recently had a tune-up on her car a month ago and everything seemed to be working fine. I think the transmission is dead. Does that sound right?
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Lately my 2004 Chevrolet Cavalier will overflow gas when filling up completely. It does not make a difference where or what type of pump is used. The auto shut off on the pump clicks and stops the gas. Then 1-2 seconds later gas spewes out of the filler hole. Putting about a half gallon or more of gas on the car and on the ground. What changed and how to fix it? The GM dealership doesn't know and neither do other shops. Here's a video : [URL] ....
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Last week my car started making a rattling noise whenever I turned it on and when I went over bumps or potholes in the road. It sounded like it was coming from the trunk latch or something. It also started squeaking- I knew it wasn't my breaks because I wasn't using my brakes when the squeaking happened. I finally realized my muffler is jiggling around, so I crawled under my car to check it out. There's a part on the left of the muffler right by the rear tire that connects the muffler to the under side of the car. It looks like something is missing- rubber or something that holds the pieces of metal there. Is this something I can find and fix myself? Or do I need to go to a mechanic? I was going to zip-tie it up, but there's not really anything to loop it through. Will my car be further damaged if I don't fix it soon? (2004 Chevy Cavalier)
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I have a 2004 Chev Cavalier with a 2.2. Ecotec OHC. Lately the car has started to stagger on acceleration. Particularly when going up hill. The weird thing is, it only does it after it's been running for 10 or 15 minutes. Up until that time it runs smoothly. But when it happens it feels like the engine bucks. Or hiccups. If I stomp on the gas the car will either stall or kick in and overcome this. When I'm driving down the road at a steady speed, or when I'm sitting still the engine will buck in the same fashion. Not steadily--intermittently. Once or twice every fifteen seconds. But it's getting progressively worse.
Now if I launch out of an intersection the car might even stall. When this happens I just turn the key and she fires right up again as if nothing happened. No "Check Engine Light" or trouble codes showing up in my Scangauge. I replaced the fuel filter just as a preliminary measure but that didn't solve the problem. I had the fuel pump replaced a few months ago as well but that ws before this problem occurred. No other parts or pieces replaced. Fuel pressure regulator? Spark plugs? Injectors?
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Like I said, 04 cavalier automatic.. Bought it used over 200thousand miles, but in PERFECT SHAPE, engine is beautiful.. No leaks that I could tell from the ground. Just put on new rotors & breaks,.. Now the problem.. under neath my petals sounds like doo doo doo doo, like a really big fan, & Its hard to accelerate at 35-55mph.. When i do it has to like catch up with itself, as if not going into 2nd gear.
I know nothing about cars, so I am describing the best i can.. Its also been sucking gas like crazy.. but no leaks? All my lights are lit up.. ABS trac off, service, & check engine. One guy said the noise is someone impacted on my aluminum rims too tight & they could be bent, it was very hard for him to get my tire off to change rotors..
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I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier with 113k miles. It is having problems starting. If it's sat for a while 10-15 minutes it's starting rough or in most cases needing me to press the gas pedal to get it started. I have replaced the fuel filter and used some fuel system cleaner to what appears no avail. I can hear the fuel pump turn on at startup, so not sure if that's the culprit.
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I have a 2004 Chevy cavalier with 133,000 miles. For the last week I have been hearing a ticking noise - seems to be coming from inside the dash board on the passengers side (glove compartment). The ticking noise begins when the engine starts up and stops when the engine stops, so the noise is continuous while the engine is running. The car runs well, no loss in power, nothing out of the ordinary, with the exception of the noise. I opened the hood and listen - the sound seems to come from inside the firewall.
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My 04' FX4 rear door locks hesitate to open with the key fob or the door switch. I can get them to open sometimes but not every time. Why this is happening?
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my 2001 cavalier overheats only when it idles, overheats in 3 to 5 minutes & the ac blows hot. As soon as you get moving again the car runs at normal temp and the ac blows ice cold. We changed the thermostat, coolant and belts, i'm not loosing any coolant. Looks like the fans are not coming on, I can not find a location for a fan relay switch, thought maybe we should change that before changing out the fans..Is there a relay switch?
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I recently replaced my front door speakers in my 2005 RX330. Upon reassembling everything I had the following issues:
1) The front Passenger side window and rear seat windows would not roll down from the driver's side controls. This issue was resolved by going to each individual window control and rolling the window down halfway and then rolling them all the way up and continuing to press on the window control in the "Up" position for an additional 5 seconds or so.
2) My original Lexus key (non-remote) would work for staring the car, but it would no longer work to unlock the doors by inserting it into the Driver's side door lock and moving the key toward the front of the car.
3) In attempting to resolve issue #2, I disconnected the Car battery for a couple of hours and reconnected it, which leads me to my big problem(s). Now none of my windows will roll down from ANY window control (including the front door driver's window). In addition, the doors can only be locked/unlocked from the Lexus Key Remote or from the front Passenger door lock control.
I have checked all fuses that I could get to (under the hood and under the drivers side dash panel) but I still cannot get the windows or door locks to function normally. I could not get to one big blue fuse under the dash panel right next to the fusebox that I believe is related to the power windows. I am not sure if it also fuses the sunroof, which DOES function. I pulled the Negative Battery cable off a second time and did another reset but to no avail.
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my moms 2004 touareg's switch to lock/unlock got pushed through and is in the door now i'm wondering what you have to remove to get where it would've fallen and how to get it off i've tried to snap it out but i don't want to pull it too hard and break anything else. also how do i get it back in position once i get to it
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My car dies when I come to a stop unless I gently press on the gas pedal while holding done the brake. What can cause this?
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Just replaced the door lock up/down on a 2001 golf. After getting the door all back together I pulled the door open and the door handle popped out slightly at both ends. What happened? It now wont reset into the door flush like before.
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