Cavalier - Chevrolet :: 2004 - Hard To Accelerate At 35 - 55mph
May 10, 2013
Like I said, 04 cavalier automatic.. Bought it used over 200thousand miles, but in PERFECT SHAPE, engine is beautiful.. No leaks that I could tell from the ground. Just put on new rotors & breaks,.. Now the problem.. under neath my petals sounds like doo doo doo doo, like a really big fan, & Its hard to accelerate at 35-55mph.. When i do it has to like catch up with itself, as if not going into 2nd gear.
I know nothing about cars, so I am describing the best i can.. Its also been sucking gas like crazy.. but no leaks? All my lights are lit up.. ABS trac off, service, & check engine. One guy said the noise is someone impacted on my aluminum rims too tight & they could be bent, it was very hard for him to get my tire off to change rotors..
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I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. I am having some issues with it.
When it first starts it idles really hard. The RPMs are up and if will try to accelerate without hitting the gas. This stops after the first minute.
The second part is that when stopped, but in drive, it idles hard. It does it though when the AC is turned off. You can see the RPM gauge go above and below the normal 500 RPM. If you turn the AC on then it levels out. It will occasionally idle hard with the AC on, but rarely and not as much.
The car drives well and is not overheating.
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My 1994 chevy cavalier is overheating mainly on hot days and when I work the engine hard. My coolant level hasn't dropped in a long time and the coolant cap is usually dry. I replaced the thermostat and checked the radiator hoses. They seem to be fine. My engine is leaking coolant.
(See photo) : IMG_2308.JPG3024x4032 2.61 MB
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I have a weird problem with the A/C on my 93 S10. It will start blowing warm air but if I accelerate real hard it will start blowing cold again.
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I own a 1986 Chevy Silverado C10. I have replaced much of the truck in the seven years i have owned it, including the engine about 35,000 miles ago. The modulator valve on the transmission became unbolted from the transmission housing a while back (the "tab" of the transmission housing actually cracked off). The truck lost power when this happened and most of the transmission fluid leaked out before i realized something was wrong , stopped and called a tow.
I replaced the modulator and secured it with a "Z" shaped clip made of roughly 10 gauge steel that bolts to the modulator and then to the frame that suspends the transmission. Then i noticed a loss of power up hill and the truck has trouble accelerating over 45-50 mph., possibly has trouble shifting into over drive "?".
I replaced the detent cable next, and changed the transmission fluid, filter, and gasket while i was at it. I have also replaced plugs and wires, and done a general tune up since then, but i still have trouble on hills and accelerating on the highway. I drive up a hill every day coming home from work and the truck slows to roughly 25mph, even if i start the hill at 45mph., and it climbs slow and seems very bogged down. Something to check before i assume the transmission needs replaced.
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Car won't start after filling up with gas. I have tried a new fuel filter, new gas tank cap, checked for pressure on fuel pump. We have gottenit to start (but barely) when either hit gas tank with hammer or shake the back of the car, otherwise you have to set and wait 15-30 minutes before it will start and when it does it smells very weird (like it's flooded but an extra strange smell with it). I have seen a similar posting on here and someone suggested it might be a purge value problem. In talking with someone at auto store they didn't think this was the issue. I do have my check engine light on all the time and when checked the code , it said oxygen sensor. My two other Cavaliers have also had the oxygen sensor problem but it never did this with that code.
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I have a 1996 Chevy Tahoe (5.7L, 185k miles) that I think is misfiring. What typically happens is a shuddering at about 50-55mph while in 4th gear (though to a lesser degree, it will shudder at speeds above that too) and lightly accelerating or keeping speed on a small incline (~5-10% grade). During this time, there is no change on the tach. My check engine light is not on. Spark plugs and wires are new. The problem occurs while using 93 octane fuel. The shuddering is never noticeable in gears 1, 2 or 3, and is not noticeable at full throttle. I replaced the fuel pump about 6 years ago.
I brought it to the transmission shop, but was told that isn't where the problem lies. Second, I took it to a mechanic. He told me that he couldn't pin-point the cylinder, as there were no codes to unveil the problem.
My question is what are the causes I should look for, and how can I address them short of an engine overhaul? I recently read for the first time about Seafoam, and I'm intrigued.
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Why does my 2000 chevy impala whistle when i accelerate? it also seems to shift hard.
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So i went to put my car in gear and the clutch is loose. car turns on just fine. there is clutch fluid. I've never had this problem till this cold weather popped up.what do i do? wait till the car warms up? I can put it in gear when the car is off so idk why it does that.
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My future mother-in-law has a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. Last night night when she tried to put it in gear, the car would not go in reverse or drive. She recently had a tune-up on her car a month ago and everything seemed to be working fine. I think the transmission is dead. Does that sound right?
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Lately my 2004 Chevrolet Cavalier will overflow gas when filling up completely. It does not make a difference where or what type of pump is used. The auto shut off on the pump clicks and stops the gas. Then 1-2 seconds later gas spewes out of the filler hole. Putting about a half gallon or more of gas on the car and on the ground. What changed and how to fix it? The GM dealership doesn't know and neither do other shops. Here's a video : [URL] ....
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Last week my car started making a rattling noise whenever I turned it on and when I went over bumps or potholes in the road. It sounded like it was coming from the trunk latch or something. It also started squeaking- I knew it wasn't my breaks because I wasn't using my brakes when the squeaking happened. I finally realized my muffler is jiggling around, so I crawled under my car to check it out. There's a part on the left of the muffler right by the rear tire that connects the muffler to the under side of the car. It looks like something is missing- rubber or something that holds the pieces of metal there. Is this something I can find and fix myself? Or do I need to go to a mechanic? I was going to zip-tie it up, but there's not really anything to loop it through. Will my car be further damaged if I don't fix it soon? (2004 Chevy Cavalier)
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I have a 2004 Chev Cavalier with a 2.2. Ecotec OHC. Lately the car has started to stagger on acceleration. Particularly when going up hill. The weird thing is, it only does it after it's been running for 10 or 15 minutes. Up until that time it runs smoothly. But when it happens it feels like the engine bucks. Or hiccups. If I stomp on the gas the car will either stall or kick in and overcome this. When I'm driving down the road at a steady speed, or when I'm sitting still the engine will buck in the same fashion. Not steadily--intermittently. Once or twice every fifteen seconds. But it's getting progressively worse.
Now if I launch out of an intersection the car might even stall. When this happens I just turn the key and she fires right up again as if nothing happened. No "Check Engine Light" or trouble codes showing up in my Scangauge. I replaced the fuel filter just as a preliminary measure but that didn't solve the problem. I had the fuel pump replaced a few months ago as well but that ws before this problem occurred. No other parts or pieces replaced. Fuel pressure regulator? Spark plugs? Injectors?
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It looks like the door jamb switch no longer pops open so I am wondering how in the world do I replace it? Someone suggested grabbing pliers and just pulling on it till the tabs break off and it comes out. Is this the correct way? This is a 2004 Chevy Cavalier and some of the symptoms of my problems include the radio not turning off when you open the door after getting out of the car. Nor do the dome lights come on when I open the door to get in.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier with 113k miles. It is having problems starting. If it's sat for a while 10-15 minutes it's starting rough or in most cases needing me to press the gas pedal to get it started. I have replaced the fuel filter and used some fuel system cleaner to what appears no avail. I can hear the fuel pump turn on at startup, so not sure if that's the culprit.
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I have a 2004 Chevy cavalier with 133,000 miles. For the last week I have been hearing a ticking noise - seems to be coming from inside the dash board on the passengers side (glove compartment). The ticking noise begins when the engine starts up and stops when the engine stops, so the noise is continuous while the engine is running. The car runs well, no loss in power, nothing out of the ordinary, with the exception of the noise. I opened the hood and listen - the sound seems to come from inside the firewall.
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2004 Saturn Vue, V6 AWD with 138K miles. In the last 8 months I have had the struts rebuilt, all brake components replaced (everything), front axles replaced, anti-sway bar bushings replaced, front end alignment, replaced wheels and tires and front wheel bearings, replaced two broken motor mounts, removed defective main drive shaft, all to eliminate the vibration that begins at speeds approaching highway speeds.
The problem has not gone away but is much improved with the new axles and motor mounts. Sheering shaft was replaced 7 years ago.
The GM dealer refuses to look at it until I replace the drive shaft, which the car doesn't need to drive.
I have had it to suspension specialists and a dozen mechanics and we are all at a loss.
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I bought 09 GX-470 4K miles ago..has 50K on it. Ran perfect when we bought it. wife said it started doing it 1 week later. I drove it and felt like warped rotors to me. replaced front rotors and pads with cheap wearever brand...I Know...I was sort of trouble shooting..did nothing ...did the back rotors and pads and seemed to fix it..did proper bed-in of new parts but, never checked at speeds above 55mph. recent trip got us up to speeds above 55... at these faster speeds when brakes are applied we get a nasty wheel wobble and a pulsing pedal...braking below 55 it feels fine.. thought's ?? last car was a 4runner which has the the same rotors and pads and never had a problem...could it be ABS ?? should I go with new oem rotors and pads ?
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My car dies when I come to a stop unless I gently press on the gas pedal while holding done the brake. What can cause this?
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Had a directional bulb go out recently and replaced it without any problem. About 3 days ago it went again, I bought a 2 pack of bulbs - replaced it and drove on. Almost instantly right after I turned and signaled the right directional bulb blew again, I grabbed the extra bulb put it into plug and started car - first right turn with directional bulb blows again. I'm at a loss as to where this can be happening. Is this in the steering column or elsewhere, where do I even begin to look.
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My daughter says that the AC on her 2001 Chevy Cavalier cuts off when she is idling.
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