Cavalier - Chevrolet :: 2003 - Idle Rough And Jagged - Got Code PO440?
Jan 5, 2015
I have a 2003 Chevy Cavalier that I have owned since new. It has 340,000 miles and I want to get to at least half-a-million. My wife was driving it last week and it started with a very rough idle and ran rough for 5-10 minutes until it quit running for her in the bank line. I came to get her and the car and started it by giving it some gas, but the idle was rough and jagged. Feels like it missing and gasping for air. Running on the road home at 30mph it seems almost normal, until i slow to a stop. Went to have the codes read at Advance and Auto Zone only coming up with PO440 woe the EVAP system, which has been showing for 200K miles. Have a clean K&N filter but no other modifications. I've done a lot of work myself and also have a good mechanic, but I don't want to drop if off blindly. I'm thinking maybe the Fuel Pressure Regulator or the IAC Valve. Haven't looked at the throttle body yet. Where should I go from here?
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Replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator but still notice smell of gas and sometimes at start up rough idle.
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This is my daughter in laws car. The rough idle, check engine light and trac light all happened at the same time. She was in a parking lot and drove over a speed bump when all the problems started. The check engine light flashes when driving above 25mph. It's on solid at idle. I found the EVAP purge valve plastic nipple was busted off so I replaced the assembly. I was totally surprised when this had no effect on the symptoms.
I find it strange that the car was running fine and then has all these symptoms after going over a speed bump.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier with 113k miles. It is having problems starting. If it's sat for a while 10-15 minutes it's starting rough or in most cases needing me to press the gas pedal to get it started. I have replaced the fuel filter and used some fuel system cleaner to what appears no avail. I can hear the fuel pump turn on at startup, so not sure if that's the culprit.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. I am having some issues with it.
When it first starts it idles really hard. The RPMs are up and if will try to accelerate without hitting the gas. This stops after the first minute.
The second part is that when stopped, but in drive, it idles hard. It does it though when the AC is turned off. You can see the RPM gauge go above and below the normal 500 RPM. If you turn the AC on then it levels out. It will occasionally idle hard with the AC on, but rarely and not as much.
The car drives well and is not overheating.
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I am having issues with my 2002 chevy cavalier.
The car occasionally surges forward while idle and revs up to 1500 rpm approximately occasionally when the air conditioner is on... if the brake is not applied I move forward.. the lurches are continuous every 3 seconds or so.
I am getting a code for an evap leak.. I have replaced the purge solenoid valve, gas cap, and checked all connections with no luck... slightly decreased gas mileage has occurred.
A little bit of a slick substance has been leaking from the car.. it has the consistency of water, but leaves a slight brown tinge on concrete.
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A couple months ago my car (2001 Cavalier 2.4L) started running bad, it just happened one morning when I started it up. Its extremely rough idle at around 500 rpm for about 5 seconds and then it stalls out, if I rev it up with the pedal it'll stay going and you can smell gas coming out the exhaust. the car still drives but has almost no power. I changed the plugs and gaped them to spec of .050 as one of them was corroded really bad, that didn't work, so I replaced one of the ignition coil on the side of the corroded plug,I need to replace both ignition coils or the ignition control module isn't working right.
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I recently bought this cavalier about a week ago its and 88 automatic trans with 1.8 4 cylinder I thing not that it matters much. I noticed the exhaust had a smaller pipe from the manifold and the rest was strung with a bit bigger pipe and was attempted to crimp the pipes togather it was loud so I crimped thhe pipes better and used exhaust glue to patch the holes it runs better now to a point. but when I start the car it revs up a fair im guessing 3 grand since I have no rpm gauge but then it dies down to a low idle to the point were the car shakes a little bit.
with the exhaust fixed I can get it up to 20 kilometres an hour with my foot off the gas when I turn fully it wants to lurch ahead/backwards. when I took it out for a highway drive today I came to a stop sign so I slowed and stoped and the car stalled out. started no problem. but I also tried later putting it in neutral and it doesn't stall as I role to a stop it doesn't shake in neutral. I would like to have this fixed but I need some pointers as of were to look. im not sure if this means anything but when I got the car it had a bad enough radiator fluid leak at the hose meeting the heating car on the engine side of the fire wall I repaired that and no longer leaks.
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This is the code that comes up on my 2002 2.2 Cavalier. Camshaft sensor bank 1. After a lot of research I was led to believe it was most likely the upstream 02 sensor. Replaced it, engine light still on. Wipe codes, light goes off, turn off car, turn back on, light back on. What other possible problems could be causing the light to be on? It's been on the entire time I've had the car which is 3 years. I've had it e tested with the light on and it's passed with flying colors. It's up for an e test, actually I have 5 flipping days to figure this out, have it e tested and get a sticker for it.
I've been trying to figure it out for well over a month since I realized an e test was due and they've changed the way they do the tests now, they told me even tho the light most likely has nothing to do with the emissions they can't test it if the light is on period. I was told to start pulling fuses because it could be something as simple as a bad fuse. The car is in relatively good shape under the hood, no major problems and much of the car is still factory. No weird symptoms other then sometimes it will rev high at idle or low speed but as soon as I get to 4th gear it always balances out.
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My girlfriend's 2001 cavalier has about 160k on it and about a week ago it started shifting harshly accelerating to highway speeds and the CEL came on along with the traction control/abs warning light. I pulled the OBD2 code and it was P0742, Torque Converter Clutch Circuit Stuck On. We took it to the transmission shop down the street the next day and they wanted $600 to diagnose. We called 'shenanigans' and decided she should take it to her regular shop. On the drive over the transmission shifted normally. Both shops noticed that the transmission cooler lines were rusty and seeping, but neither thought it was the cause of the problem. The shifting issue hasn't recurred even after a couple hundred miles during the week. She hasn't had the transmission fluid changed and doesn't know if it had been when she bought it about 80k miles ago. It seems to me that pre-emptively draining the fluid, changing the filter and refilling, especially to check for debris in the fluid, would make sense, especially if it was debris jamming the circuit that caused the error code in the first place.
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What that means? The check engine light is NOT on but I looked for a code because my truck is idling rough, and when driving, when the overdrive kicks in, it vibrates really bad. As if a bad U-joint on your drive shaft. The truck has been in a field for about 5 months broke down so any clue? Haynes manual says nothing about P1000.
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I just bought an 03 Excursion 3 months ago and it has 104,000+ miles on it. I was driving to the lake to do a little night fishing this past Saturday. It ran fine up to me parking the truck to unstrap my boat. I noticed it start to idle rough and thought nothing of it. Started to back the boat down the ramp and got almost all the way to the water and it died. It restarted immediately but died several times trying to make it back up the ramp (with boat still in tow). No service engine light or anything for about an hour or so. Thought maybe I had gotten hold of some bad gas so I put in a bottle of sea foam and gas dry with no change to how it ran. Made it back home and the next day tried starting it again and it still idled rough and would die when put in gear. A friend brought over a code reader and got a P0149 which I've learned is a fuel timing error. Could it be the fuel pump or the solenoid on the fuel pump?
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97 4.6.. So it would appear that I have the wild goose chase of codes. The major symptoms are rough idle and very poor performance. I started off by cleaning the egr valve and ports. Then I checked the egr valve itself and watched the valve open and close under a vacuum. I was suspecting the DPFE sensor but I wanted to trying something else first. I was under the Impression that if at idle you apply a vacuum to the egr valve it would cause the engine to "stumble and stall". I did this and there was no change in the way the engine was running. So now I'm lost as to where to go from here.
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For the last couple months I've been messing with a P1118 code. Started a few months ago when I noticed my fuel mileage was down 1-2MPG. Also sometimes a rough seeming idle (hard to tell with the diesel). Then it threw a P1118, so I replaced the temp sensor under the turbo. The code went away for a while then came back, fuel mileage didn't change. So I replaced the temp sensor in the air filter box.
The code went away AND my fuel mileage seems to have come back to normal. Now, code thrown again. Search on P1118 hasn't been super useful. Seems like replacing the sensor under the turbo is the trick. Also seems to come up in combination with a bunch of other codes with battery problems. I suppose it's possible I have some sort of electrical gremlin. It throws the code on startup and stays on until I shut it off. Doesn't come on every time, is off more often than on.
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I recently bought an 2003 manual transmission Cavalier which looks and drives great, albeit for one (hopefully minor) issue:
The front end repetitively squeaks like a squeaky toy (does not sound like metal-on-metal) when driving. The squeaking is not constant ("Squeak....") but has a rhythm (Squeak....Squeak...Squeak...Squeak...Squeak). The tempo of the squeaking increases the faster I go and appears to be loudest (or most annoying) around 30 mph. In addition, some bumps will cause the squeaking to occur, but the squeaking will return to its original rhythm immediately afterward. The squeaking sounds similar/equal distance whether I'm driving or riding in the passenger seat.
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was wondering when I hook my fog lights up to my 03 cavalier do I need to install a switch or do they come on automatically with the headlights.
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I have a 2003 Cavalier. It has started to shake and pull to the right when driving. It feels like the car is swaying. Is this the symptoms of a bad ball joint, tie rod or something else.
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i was driving my car back home after a short drive to the store and my car stalled and i started it back up and it continued to stall (no check engine light was coming on or oil light if there is one). I finally got it back home and it will not start now, I asked a friend to come look at it and he said it could be the starter, as he was checking on that he said there was a hole in my oil pan, which of course i did not see.
I replaced the starter just in case and it did not start and he also replaced the oil pan and put oil in as it was completely dry(4 quarts). it still makes the same noise when i try to start it with a jump and a new battery, when i turn the key all of the dash lights go dead, so i am unsure what to do next if my engine is seized or maybe something else i can hopefully check or replace for cheaper...
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My friend has a 2003 Toyota Echo that is throwing a cylinder misfire code. Original code is P0302 and P0302PD. The car is idling rougher, kind of sounds like "put-put-put". Also, the car has no power at all. He lives on a hill and he can't even pull out of his driveway. Lastly, the smell of the exhaust is gassy.
We have changed out the spark plugs...no change. Next, we bought a new ignition coil for the number two cylinder...no change. So, maybe its the wiring. Put the new coil onto the number 3 cylinder and the number 3 coil onto the 2 cylinder. Low and behold, the misfire code changes to P0303 and P0303PD.
Thinking we might have gotten a dud of a coil, we bought another. Same thing...new coil on 2 code is P0302...new coil on 3, code is P0303. Could we just have gotten two bad coils? Oh, coils were a BWD brand coil and Duralast brand. Should we just go OEM from dealer? OR Denso from Advance Auto?
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I got a p0284 code and have some symptoms such as shaking while accelerating between 45 and 60 mph and a rough idle.
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I have a 2003 Chevy Cavalier. When I'm going at some speed (not from a stop) to the left (like on a curve), I hear a high-pitch squeaky/squealing noise. It's not one long continuous noise, but more like chk, chk, chk, etc. and high in pitch. It doesn't happen when I'm going to the right. And I don't hear it if I'm going very slowly, such as turning left from a complete stop.
What this might be?
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