Cavalier - Chevrolet :: 2002 Stalls Every Time Fueled Up At The Pump
Sep 3, 2012
I have a 2002 Chevy Cavalier that stalls ever time it is fueled at the pump. It then continues to stall. I have to pump the gas like the old days when we all had carburetors and repeat the action many times. It always starts eventually, but causes unnecessary anxiety so I always fill my car at a time I don't need to be anywhere in a timely manner. It was taken to the shop but they could not reproduce the stalling, as they did not have the information that it mostly happens at the when fueling. The gas cap can be taken off for a while and it starts okay. The rpm is low after adding gas, if you give it gas, it runs then eventually idles normally.
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I was checking under my hood today and I happened to notice a dent in what I think is my water pump. Should this be cause for concern or something I can just ignore?
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I had a leak in my water pump so we had it replaced and a new thermostat. Now it is overheating in just about 2 minutes and my heater is now not working. I was told that it is most likely an air pocket in the coolant. I have let the car heat up, not to the point of hot but over half way and shut it off, taken the cap of let it sit for a while and then trying it again. No luck so far. Is there another way to get it out of there? and would the cap have anything to do with it? it has been hard to take off in the past and now its coming off easy. It is the plastic kind. I am at the end of my rope here . the car runs like a dream, its just this one thing.
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OK, we have a cavalier that is slowly dying but until we find a good price on a used car we are looking at it has to keep chugging along... It started to overheat about month ago, just when you go up a hill otherwise it is fine (doesn't overheat but a few lines from the red zone!). Mechanic said it was a head gasket and we have noticed that the coolant level is down slightly... can it be a head gasket yet still drivable? Also about 2 months ago the car needed a new water pump, flushed and filled, could it just be the new water pump was bad? No other issues, heat works fine, no puddles under the car etc....
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I've been fighting this almost a month now.2.2L Engine.
The engine turns over, but want start.
We have fuel pressure (55psi) and a spark.
Sprayed ether in the intake -- nothing.
Changed the crankshaft positioning sensor. Put a simple scanner on it, it stated no errors or faults could be found.
Tried another ignition module, checked the PCM fuse and ignition module fuse, both look fine.
Installed an anti-theft system bypass and followed the reset instructions. Didn't fix.
Just for fun we changed the spark plugs as well.
Now, the person I was with who saw the spark (I was inside the car) says the spark looked "weak" to him. Is this possible?
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Why my 2002 cavalier keeps blowing the ERLS fuse?? Happened a while ago, and I heard the pop. Then my check engine light came on, along with the off track light and the air started blowing hot air, and it won't shift out of first gear. It is an automatic. I replaced the fuse, quit using the A/C and it ran for a couple weeks but not real far. Then after a 6-8 mile round trip it blew again and I can't seem to find any answers for a very odd problem.
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Replaced Fuel Pressure Regulator but still notice smell of gas and sometimes at start up rough idle.
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I have an '02 Chevy Cavalier whose passenger side headlight went dim suddenly one day when I started the car. When I start the car, the daytime running headlights indicator flashes and clicks, and then the service light comes on. I have tried the following:
1) Swapped light bulbs between the two lights. It is not the bulb.
2) Swapped fuses between the two lights. It is not the fuse.
Even stranger, when I remove the fuse to the dim headlight, the light stays on. My guess is that I have a short somewhere in the wiring. I took a brief look at the connection between the socket and the wiring and everything looks good there.
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I have a 2002 Caviler. Somewhat recently the car has been not staying at a constant temperature. It will rise above the middle (where it would always just stay at until recently) a notch and then go down a notch below the middle. I have never replaced the thermostat and I have had it around 8 years and the car has around 60,000 miles. Did replacing the thermostat fix them?
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I am having issues with my 2002 chevy cavalier.
The car occasionally surges forward while idle and revs up to 1500 rpm approximately occasionally when the air conditioner is on... if the brake is not applied I move forward.. the lurches are continuous every 3 seconds or so.
I am getting a code for an evap leak.. I have replaced the purge solenoid valve, gas cap, and checked all connections with no luck... slightly decreased gas mileage has occurred.
A little bit of a slick substance has been leaking from the car.. it has the consistency of water, but leaves a slight brown tinge on concrete.
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2002 CAvalier 2.2 automatic with 123'000 miles. I was asked to look at this car for a slipping trans problem.
I drove the car about 3 miles and in 1st and Reverse it feels normal, even on a steep hill, but once it shifts into a higher gear the trans slips and you can go only about 15mph.It is shifting, because if you move the shifter into a lower gear while traveling....you can feel it downshift.
There is a code of P0502 Vehicle speed sensor. and there is no Trans fluid visible thru the filler cap on the trans top.
Previously someone else worked on this car for the slipping trans....changed some sensors....but couldn't fix the problem. The owners don't know what parts he replaced. He works for a Tire outfit and I've known him to lean towards used parts a lot.The previous mechanic convinced them that it needs a new Cluster. I presume he means instrument cluster.
I have a feeling that he just threw parts at it hoping that something would stick.
I presume that he replaced the VSS, and it didn't cure the problem.Come to think of it....the code could be from before the other persons work. I should have cleared the code and test drove it again.
I'm looking at dropping the pan, replacing the filter, refill the fluid, and replace the VSS
My questions: Could a instrument cluster have anything to do with the shifting problem.
Is the level of trans fluid supposed to be above the ledge under the filler cap, or is there a "full level" plug in the side of the trans. If he replaced the VSS with a new one....and the fluid level is good....whats my next step.
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My car runs great except occasionally after I drive awhile, park and than restart to continue, it starts right up but stalls out 20-30 seconds later. I turns over but will not run. I have to let it sit for 30-45 minutes and than it starts up like a champ. I suspect fuel pump but would like an expert opinion. Garage says they can find nothing wrong and to bring it in when it happens... how do I do that.
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2002, Chevy, Suburban 1500, 4wd, 5.3L engine, 210,000 miles. Mass airflow sensor and both O2 sensors replaced last year in an effort to fix this problem. Original problem surfaced when the vehicle was shut down or running uphill and had about 1/2 tank of gas in hot weather. If stopped, the vehicle would not start until it had cooled down. Sometimes getting it onto level ground would be enough to get it running again. ( This accomplished by turning on the key and allowing the vehicle to roll back out of the parking place. ) If running down the road, getting to level ground after the stall, pulling to the shoulder and cooling the engine/waiting a few minutes and restarting the vehicle would work. This was before the above mentioned repairs.
Last weekend in 60 degree weather I was driving back from northern Michigan and as I headed up hill at 75 mph with the tank at 1/2 the vehicle did a high speed stall on me. Symptoms were: RPM showed 2000, but pushing down on the gas actually dropped the RPM no matter how feather-footed I was. This was tried several times. I turned on the 4 ways and moved toward the shoulder and at 50 mph finally got the thing to restart. The rest of the trip home was uneventful.
I had a 2001 Suburban with the same specs which did this same thing until a factory recall that got me a new fuel pump. I asked about the recall the last time my truck was in for service and they said it does not fall within the serial numbers for that recall. Fuel filter replaced about 9 months ago. Co-incidentally but not necessarily related is that my battery with less than 3 years of a 7 year warranty was draining itself in less than 2 days this last winter.
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I have an 02 accord SE. The last few times that I have pumped gas the engine would not start until 10 minutes later. First time I turned the key in the ignition there would be no sound, I tried again 2 minutes later and there would be a little sound, next time I tried there would be a little rumble. I'd wait and try 10 min later and it would start again... It has happened the last 3 times I've pumped gas and only when I pump...
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I have a 2002 Ford Windstar that only in the fall and winter it has a longer crank time of at least 10 seconds. In the summer it starts as it should within 3-4 seconds. I did notice that the times it did start normally in the colder air is when I turned the key on and listened to the fuel pump prime the system. All other times it doesn't do that and that's when I get the long crank time. Once it is started it runs as normal. Am I looking at a possible fuel filter or pump? I am due to replace the filter as the van has 83,000 miles on it. If this is the possible culprit, is this something that is easily replaced at home?
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When I start my truck after it has been sitting for a while... I.E. Everything is cold. It takes about 2-3 seconds for the alternator to start putting out voltage (the lights are dim, and the voltmeter on the dash registers about 11 volts). My question is: Am I running on borrowed time and should I change out the alternator, or is there another underlying problem I should be looking for? OR... is this normal; I've never seen this before.
2002 s10 p/u 4cyl stick shift ..
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Ok so about a week ago I was driving my 02 impala and I heard a loud noise while driving at 30 mph and it lasted till about 50mph. well I had my dad take it down the road while I was at work about 5 days later to hear what the noise was wondering if it might have been a hub. Well I call him an hour later cause he ain't back he says he's at the gas station and it won't reverse. Well apparently the noise was just my transmission being loud cause it was taking a while to shift. I've never had a problem with my tranny but some leakage which I think is just the gasket I just know that theres tranny fluid under my pan on one side. So I went to auto zone and they got a code for p1811. So I'm wondering if it just needs a filter and gasket change or is my tranny gone. It still shifts into gears just takes longer in 2nd and I can't drive in reverse at all?
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I have an 02' Blazer 2Door 2WD 4.3L vortec. Great truck - very low miles. About a month ago the fuel pump went out. She was showing signs / not starting on the 1st/2nd try and finally wouldn't start. It's a 12 year old pump and I was also that guy trying to make til Friday on a quarter tank - so no complaints so far. I checked the relay and fuse, all good there - so I bought a new AC Delco and fuel filter. Drained and dropped the tank, cleaned and dried the tank and installed the new fuel filter. The pump came with a new pigtail - so I wired in the new pigtail, attached the hoses and re-attached the tank. Not bad for 6 hours of work ( first time - don't judge ). She fired right up and ran like a champ / about a week later I stopped and filled up the gas tank. Next day - no start / no whine from pump / 0 psi at the schrader valve.
Assuming it must be an electrical issue - I dropped the tank and tested the gray power wire / 12 volts. But to be thorough / in case I made a mistake / I stripped and re crimped all the connections, heat-sealed the sleeves and wrapped in all in electric tape. Tested the pump - she hummed like a kitty. Re-installed the tank and she fired up like a champ. Drove around a couple of days - stopped and filled the tank with gas. Same thing - wouldn't start right there at the pump. i poured fuel in the intake - she would start and run until the fuel burned up.
No hum from the pump. had it towed home ... again ... began to siphon my now full tank of fuel to drop it yet again. At about 1/2 way , I tried her and the pump primed and she started right away. For the past two weeks I have been unable to make it NOT WORK - but i am worried to go very far , less i be stranded again. on the gauge I get 60 with the key on and 56 running. With the engine off the pressure holds for quite a long time - well over an hour+. So what would cause a brand new AC Delco pump to not work only when the tank is full - then start working when some of the fuel is removed?
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2000 sunfire SE 2.2 L engine. Firstly, I should mention the present temperature out here is -37 C.
So here is the issue I am experiencing. The car does not idle smoothly. In fact I find it idles a lot lower then my fiances 2005 sunfire (hers idles at about 1000 RPM). My car idles around 750 RPM. and I've noticed for last couple months when just idling its not very smooth. The RPM will idle at 750 and then drop down a bit and back up again. It never has been a big problem till now.
While driving it yesterday, whenever I would let go of the accelerator the RPM would drop right down to 500RPM, and you would hear as the heater (air blowing) would completely drop down, and lights would dim significantly, and then within a split second, RPM would jump back up to 750 and blower and lights would return to normal. It almost feels as if the RPM is too low for Alternator?? That it's not able to produce enough power for electrical devices. As well, while braking if the ABS kicks in again I see this drop in RPM along with lights dim and blower airflow drop. Once again only for a split second though.
Here is the big problem. the drop in RPM and amount of disruption it causes actually had my car stall when I let go of gas and hit brake and had ABS kick in.
I am not sure if this is a problem with having the idle set too low, spark plug problem or something do with alternator?
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So I have a '98 cavalier with the 2.2l and 4sp auto. Anyway, it runs great when dry conditions, but when its wet from rain or any moisture it runs terrible. It stalls and stumbles and the cab fills with a gas odor. I changed the coil packs and plugs and wires and it still does it. I have a P0301 cylinder 1 misfire detected and a P0200 injector circuit problem. I'm having a hard time believing this because it runs fine most of the time. Is there something else I can look at that is feeding this problem? Is this a common ocurrance?
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I just had the motor torque and strut mount fixed and was told that I have an exhaust leak flex pipe. My problem is I'm still getting a clunk when shifting into reverse doesn't happen all the time but it is concerning plan to have flexpipe fixed in the near future. will that take care of the clunking sound or is it something else? don't have a lot of cash to work with right now.
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