I have a 2002 Caviler. Somewhat recently the car has been not staying at a constant temperature. It will rise above the middle (where it would always just stay at until recently) a notch and then go down a notch below the middle. I have never replaced the thermostat and I have had it around 8 years and the car has around 60,000 miles. Did replacing the thermostat fix them?
View 7 RepliesI had a leak in my water pump so we had it replaced and a new thermostat. Now it is overheating in just about 2 minutes and my heater is now not working. I was told that it is most likely an air pocket in the coolant. I have let the car heat up, not to the point of hot but over half way and shut it off, taken the cap of let it sit for a while and then trying it again. No luck so far. Is there another way to get it out of there? and would the cap have anything to do with it? it has been hard to take off in the past and now its coming off easy. It is the plastic kind. I am at the end of my rope here . the car runs like a dream, its just this one thing.
View 12 RepliesI have a 2002 Chevrolet Cavalier that recently is having a/c and engine problems.One problem is that when the a/c is on the car will idle very badly- possibly varying 300-400 RPM. It will do this until the air is turned off or it is given more gas.The second problem is when trying to keep the car at a constant speed with the a/c on the car will vary 200-300 RPM until the a/c is turned off or it is given more gas.The last problem is when the a/c is on and no more gas is given to the car the a/c will start to blow out hot air. However, when gas is given to the car (probably has to be at about 1500 RPM) the a/c will blow out cold air. The car is a 2.2L 4 cylinder. The car has had the check engine light on in the pass but I had cleared it (it was the o2 sensor) several times. But recently it has not been coming back on. I don't know if this has anything to do with it, considering it only happens with the a/c on, but I thought that I would mention it. The car runs fine without the a/c on (idles well and drives good at constant speeds).
View 7 RepliesI have a 1998 chevy cavalier, 4 door, 2.2 liter SOHC, which has been running hot for a while now. readings are off the dash guage, here's the scenario. on startup from cold, the temperature begins to rise within 60 seconds, reaching what i consider normal operating temperature within three to five minutes, at approximately the "NO" in " NORMAL" on the gauge.
It reaches what has become it's usual operating temperature, at "RM" within another minute or two. If i am in stop and go traffic, the temperature will rapidly reach the final mark after the "L", but not the red zone. If I get on the highway, the temperature will reduce back to the "RM" position within one to two minutes, three to four minutes in steady traffic at lower speeds, i.e. 35 and all green lights. Thermostat has been replaced, water pump has been replaced, electric cooling fan is running correctly, radiator is free and clear of debris.
When I first got the car back in 2000, it ramped up to heat much more slowly, and hung out at "NO" in all types of traffic. in 2004 i went and picked up my car from my father's place, he had taken it to the local shop and had it given the once over, which is when this problem began showing up, and has gotten progressively worse over the years. I've gotten nowhere with other mechanics, the system is leak free, and the coolant tests good.
I've been fighting this almost a month now.2.2L Engine.
The engine turns over, but want start.
We have fuel pressure (55psi) and a spark.
Sprayed ether in the intake -- nothing.
Changed the crankshaft positioning sensor. Put a simple scanner on it, it stated no errors or faults could be found.
Tried another ignition module, checked the PCM fuse and ignition module fuse, both look fine.
Installed an anti-theft system bypass and followed the reset instructions. Didn't fix.
Just for fun we changed the spark plugs as well.
Now, the person I was with who saw the spark (I was inside the car) says the spark looked "weak" to him. Is this possible?
Why my 2002 cavalier keeps blowing the ERLS fuse?? Happened a while ago, and I heard the pop. Then my check engine light came on, along with the off track light and the air started blowing hot air, and it won't shift out of first gear. It is an automatic. I replaced the fuse, quit using the A/C and it ran for a couple weeks but not real far. Then after a 6-8 mile round trip it blew again and I can't seem to find any answers for a very odd problem.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 Chevy Cavalier that stalls ever time it is fueled at the pump. It then continues to stall. I have to pump the gas like the old days when we all had carburetors and repeat the action many times. It always starts eventually, but causes unnecessary anxiety so I always fill my car at a time I don't need to be anywhere in a timely manner. It was taken to the shop but they could not reproduce the stalling, as they did not have the information that it mostly happens at the when fueling. The gas cap can be taken off for a while and it starts okay. The rpm is low after adding gas, if you give it gas, it runs then eventually idles normally.
View 6 RepliesReplaced Fuel Pressure Regulator but still notice smell of gas and sometimes at start up rough idle.
View 7 RepliesI have an '02 Chevy Cavalier whose passenger side headlight went dim suddenly one day when I started the car. When I start the car, the daytime running headlights indicator flashes and clicks, and then the service light comes on. I have tried the following:
1) Swapped light bulbs between the two lights. It is not the bulb.
2) Swapped fuses between the two lights. It is not the fuse.
Even stranger, when I remove the fuse to the dim headlight, the light stays on. My guess is that I have a short somewhere in the wiring. I took a brief look at the connection between the socket and the wiring and everything looks good there.
I am having issues with my 2002 chevy cavalier.
The car occasionally surges forward while idle and revs up to 1500 rpm approximately occasionally when the air conditioner is on... if the brake is not applied I move forward.. the lurches are continuous every 3 seconds or so.
I am getting a code for an evap leak.. I have replaced the purge solenoid valve, gas cap, and checked all connections with no luck... slightly decreased gas mileage has occurred.
A little bit of a slick substance has been leaking from the car.. it has the consistency of water, but leaves a slight brown tinge on concrete.
2002 CAvalier 2.2 automatic with 123'000 miles. I was asked to look at this car for a slipping trans problem.
I drove the car about 3 miles and in 1st and Reverse it feels normal, even on a steep hill, but once it shifts into a higher gear the trans slips and you can go only about 15mph.It is shifting, because if you move the shifter into a lower gear while traveling....you can feel it downshift.
There is a code of P0502 Vehicle speed sensor. and there is no Trans fluid visible thru the filler cap on the trans top.
Previously someone else worked on this car for the slipping trans....changed some sensors....but couldn't fix the problem. The owners don't know what parts he replaced. He works for a Tire outfit and I've known him to lean towards used parts a lot.The previous mechanic convinced them that it needs a new Cluster. I presume he means instrument cluster.
I have a feeling that he just threw parts at it hoping that something would stick.
I presume that he replaced the VSS, and it didn't cure the problem.Come to think of it....the code could be from before the other persons work. I should have cleared the code and test drove it again.
I'm looking at dropping the pan, replacing the filter, refill the fluid, and replace the VSS
My questions: Could a instrument cluster have anything to do with the shifting problem.
Is the level of trans fluid supposed to be above the ledge under the filler cap, or is there a "full level" plug in the side of the trans. If he replaced the VSS with a new one....and the fluid level is good....whats my next step.
Finally got around to replacing my Thermostat because the DIY here made it look so much easier than removing the alternator and such. Did everything exactly as described and after assembling everything with the new t-stat and O-ring I am getting a constant leak from the housing. I tried removing everything and reassembling...all the bolts are tight. Plastic housing isn't cracked and seems to be in great shape. Everything lines up properly but coolant is just running out of the bottom of the housing. Am I missing some magical trick here?
View 15 RepliesI have a real problem with 2000 Ranger, after changing the upper radiator hose and thermostat, I now have a pretty constant leak from the gasket between the thermostat body and engine. Appears to be something that is triggered by the thermostat opening, so whatever the leak, the thermostat is blocking it.
I've changed the gasket, cleaned the mounting surface as good as I could. Tried re-torquing the bolts, but on that score - what is the torque specs for the 2000 3.0 liter Ranger?
But ultimately, what the heck is wrong here? This should be a pretty brainless operation really. Am I tightening the connection too much and cracking the gasket? I guess that has just occurred to me, although the gasket is not as stiff as a typical fiber gasket is.
I got an 88 celica convertible from my neighbor. This is a fixer upper. It needs a battery and an alternator. But i jumped it and after idling for 10 minutes, the temperature Gauge was almost in the red. Yes the radiator has water in it. Is it the thermostat? Or the head gasket?
View 2 Replies2009 Ford Explorer, 6 cyl, 4.0L, 74K. Read code w/scanner - "P0128 - Coolant Temp below thermostat regulating temperature". Assuming this is pretty straight forward but was wondering what the most likely culprit is (?thermostat?). Ironically, this code popped about a week ago, I cleared it and actually got my inspection sticker earlier today and then later in the day, the CEL came on again and once again, the P0128 code. The coolant level is perfect so I know there aren't any leaks.
View 5 RepliesTemperature gauge quit working after changing the thermostat and coolant.
With the engine off, I disconnected the single wire from the temperature sending unit and switched on the ignition without starting engine. The gauge pointer stayed in at the Cold mark. Using a Jumper wire, I grounded the sending unit wire and the needle on the gauge went to the Hot mark.
I quickly turned off the ignition, and replaced the sending unit with a SW-2328 (F1SZ-10884-A) Temp Sender. Warmed up the engine, but still no reading on the dash gauge.
My wife's Hyundai has the check engine light on and the engine temperature is staying right in the middle no matter the temperature outside, or if the car has been sitting an hour or over night. We're still under warranty, but are stretched for time in the coming week to stop by the dealer. I'm assuming it's a temperature sensor malfunctioning and the computer is throwing a code for that. Would this affect normal operation of the car until we can get it checked out?
View 3 RepliesI seem to recall my 4.2l oil and coolant temperature staying at a consistent 200 degrees, but now my oil temp seems to hover at or slightly above 180 while coolant remains at 200.
A 5 mile high speed uphill run brought the oil temp to about 190 degrees, but it soon settled to 180 once I slowed to 80mph.
So ambient temp is about 15 degrees Fahrenheit; however, that really shouldn't make a difference with a water cooled/thermostat engine, correct?
My main concern is that lower oil operating temperatures wont allow condensation to boil off.
I have a 98 cavelier 2.4L..When engine is cold and the colder the outside temp is, the engine runs great with lots of power. but as temperatures rise, there is a huge loss in power. It feels like the computer is retarding the timing. Is there an outside air temp sensor to close to the rad??
View 2 RepliesI have a 2013 Prius 4. I'm not sure if there is a problem or not but the heater just seems to blow the same temperature of air no matter how high I set the temperature. The air feels lukewarm. I was driving 60 miles yesterday with the temperature set at 76. I had on a long sleeve shirt and polar fleece jacket and it never got to where I was really warm. Outside temp was about 50.
View 10 Replies1991 Ranger STX, 4.0. Had a leak from the rubber seal on the thermostat. Changed the thermostat (stat 195) and seal. Now my temperature gauge is not showing a constant reading, goes to half way and when the thermo opens the gauge falls down to a quarter. The gauge is cycling this way every time the thermo opens.
View 2 Replies