Cavalier - Chevrolet :: 2000 - Humming Pretty Bad From The Left Side
Oct 9, 2012
I have a 2000 cavelier that is humming pretty bad from the left side. When I turn right it goes away. I have changed the front hubs before and it had fixed the problem. This time I changed them both and the shoes I got about thirty miles without any humming issues and then it came back but worse. I assumed that I had received a bad hub from the parts store so I bought another one and replaced it again but this time the humming didn't go away at all. Could it be something in the axle?
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I have a 2003 Chevy Cavalier. When I'm going at some speed (not from a stop) to the left (like on a curve), I hear a high-pitch squeaky/squealing noise. It's not one long continuous noise, but more like chk, chk, chk, etc. and high in pitch. It doesn't happen when I'm going to the right. And I don't hear it if I'm going very slowly, such as turning left from a complete stop.
What this might be?
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A while back I posted a message about a humming sound that sounded like it was coming from the left side of the dash behind the left air vent.
I talked to the master tech from my local VW dealer and he tells me that the humming from the left side of the dash is not the CAN BUS. He says that there's a water pump high in the left front wheel well that is supposed to run as part of the engine cool process. He says it's not supposed to run during normal operation, but he has heard a LOT of complaints about the noise.
He suspects there will be a fix from VW given the number of complaints, but he says that it's normal and nothing to worry about. Just a little annoying.
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My 1997 cavalier convertible left side front bounces like crazy on bumps and uneven pavement. Installed new strut, and a new tire and balanced. Still does same thing. Rides great on smooth road. All suspension bushings look good and there is no play anywhere.
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I have a 2002 Malibu and we have had the car about 3 years and since we purchased the car it has what a humming noise from the front when changing lanes on the highway or when making curves on the highway only when turning left.
Being an avid Car Talk listener, I decided this was probably being caused by wheel bearings and I decided to tackle the job myself and changed both left and right front wheel hubs and the noise did not change, it is still there exactly as before ! I also replaced the brake pads and rotors while it was apart.
Remembering other car talk conversations, I decided next that it must be the tires, I replaced the tires which were due for replacement anyway and guess what ? The noise is still there exactly as before !
Out of ideas, I took it to a mechanic and he said that he ran the car on the lift and was able to reproduce the noise on the lift and he felt it was coming from the differential within the transmission. While it was at the shop I had him do a wheel alignment as well to eliminate any sort of suspension issue.
My question, does this make any sense ? To me when the car is on the lift, the differential really isn't doing anything, the wheels aren't turning at different speeds because they aren't touching anything therefore to me, the diagnosis of differential doesn't hold water.
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So, starting about 2 months ago my car started starting kind of hard and the CEL came on. It would crank for a few seconds, start to turn over but sound like it was going to sputter out, but ultimately turn over. It seemed to be exacerbated the longer the car sat between times running. I let the car sit for about a week while I was waiting for parts to come in to change out my front brakes, and now it won't start.
I hooked up my newly acquired OBD II reader and got the following DTCs:P0130 - O2 Sensor Circuit Malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1P0130 P - Same, P for PendingP0336 - Crankshaft Position Sensor A CKT Range/PerformanceP0340 - Camshaft Position Sensor A Bank 1 Circuit Malfunction
Based on my limited understanding, I would think something having to do with the last two codes would be why the car isn't starting, but it seems like it could also easily be something else not directly indicated by those codes. So what I'm wondering is, do I need sensors replaced, or is there something else that needs to be replaced on the car. The car has ~130k on the odo.
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My brother has a 2000 Chevy Cavalier, not sure what engine. It killed on him on the freeway last night and we had it towed. It tried to start, it has spark and is getting gas. He said that he had no "check engine light" before it stalled. We are sure it has plenty of gas in the tank.
After the tow, when we pulled the key out of the ignition, EVERY stratis light stayed on (Emergency Brake, check engine, ABS, oil ,etc..) We checked to be sure the ignition WAS in the off position and tried the key numerous times, turning it to on or acc, then to off and pulling the key. Still the statis lights stayed on after pulling the key.
I'm thinking the Ignition switch is bad. Also, when we were turning it over....I think it felt a little rough....like slightly out of time. But then It's not my car, so I'm not familiar with how it sounds starting.I'm pretty good with cars and engines, and do most of my own work, but this has me stumped.
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I have a 2001 cavalier Z24 with power windows and the driver side window will only go up about an inch at a time. After which it just stops and I have to wait about 5 minutes before it will move again. The window still goes down no problem. It's only when the window's going up that it happens.
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I have an '02 Chevy Cavalier whose passenger side headlight went dim suddenly one day when I started the car. When I start the car, the daytime running headlights indicator flashes and clicks, and then the service light comes on. I have tried the following:
1) Swapped light bulbs between the two lights. It is not the bulb.
2) Swapped fuses between the two lights. It is not the fuse.
Even stranger, when I remove the fuse to the dim headlight, the light stays on. My guess is that I have a short somewhere in the wiring. I took a brief look at the connection between the socket and the wiring and everything looks good there.
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A rubbing sound that began with lower temps (winter here). It occurs when going over bumps - even small. Does not occur at highway speeds. Gets quite loud. Does not have to do with steering or heat as far as I can determine. Some times does not occur at all. Don't know if any relation, but recently the dome light is coming on when coming to a complete stop.
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The window just stopped working. Everything was fine, then all of a sudden it quit! What could it be and how can I fix it? I checked for a fuse, everything appears ok. Its 1997 Cavalier. Its 15°F here and it would be nice to not have to drive with the window down.
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I have a 1996 chevy cavalier 4-door. It is a 2.2 auto. I changed the passenger side cv shaft and now it won't start. I have lights it won't turn over. I put a new battery in no luck.
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I have a 2004 Chevy cavalier with 133,000 miles. For the last week I have been hearing a ticking noise - seems to be coming from inside the dash board on the passengers side (glove compartment). The ticking noise begins when the engine starts up and stops when the engine stops, so the noise is continuous while the engine is running. The car runs well, no loss in power, nothing out of the ordinary, with the exception of the noise. I opened the hood and listen - the sound seems to come from inside the firewall.
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Passengers side tail light doesn't react when braking, using hazards or blinker, what do I replace? The bulb is lit, but doesn't blink or brighten when the brakes are applied. As of right now I'm replacing the bulb socket seeing as when I replaced the bulb the contacts were covered in a brown crust, is there something else I should be looking at?
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Alright so I'm having a problem with my 2003 Ford Explorer. I've recently noticed that when I get to above 40 mph, if my steering wheel is straight, I hear a loud kind of grinding or humming sound coming from my left driver side front. If I am going about 65 mph, it gets even louder and if I crank the steering wheel to the left, that's when it really gets noisy but as soon as I crank it to the right, the problems gone. When I do hear the hummin sound, I can feel it in the steering wheel. I have replaced al of the tires and it didn't work. Also, the car slightly pulls me to the right.
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I just purchased a 2000 Hyundai Accent. I was told it has a bad wheel bearing on the front driver's side. I am assuming that would be the clicking sound that associates with speed. I was told the cv joints or axles were replaced but have a leak. I couldn't see a filler hole or one to check from. I also don't see fluid under the car from parked. Also, there is a humming which sounds like knobby mud tires. The humming disappears during hard right turns.
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I recently noticed a humming noise coming from the passenger side on my Mazda Protege 2000 ES . I suspected it was the water pump, so I took the car to my mechanic. He inspected the coolant reservoir and it was empty. He also checked the noise and the area were the pump is, and told me that the water pump had to be replaced.
My dad told me that his 1994 Sentra had the water pump replaced but none of these things had to be done and that it was unnecessary. But then I thought, every car is different.
I was in shock with how much the repair would cost, so he then gave me another quote with just the timing belt and water pump replacement for $503, but this time he said that he will not give me any warranty for the repairs because of the tensioner.
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I have a 2000 Impala with 215000 miles and it keeps on running. It has developed a side-to-side shutter and only happens during accelleration. It smooths out once I stop accellerating. I have had a left rear wheel bearing replaced hoping this would solve it. Not so much. It feels like it is coming from the rear of the car. There is no movement in the steering wheel. Could this be motor mounts?
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My car is making a noise (video attached)It sounds like it's coming from the front left side while I'm driving.
Video link....
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My passenger side is clunking pretty noticeably and if I kick the tire at the top you can see play in arms and it clunks. Im am a little short on cash to buy control arm kit right now (unemployed) Just wanna know if I can just deal with the clunking or is this gonna snap like a tie-rod (been there) and possibly lead to a disaster?? Fast responses highly urged.
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My car dies when I come to a stop unless I gently press on the gas pedal while holding done the brake. What can cause this?
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