Cavalier - Chevrolet :: 1999 - Speedometer Goes Haywire And Warning Lights Flash
Oct 8, 2013
My Chevy has about 149,000 miles. The charge light flashes constantly even though the battery & alternator have been replaced & tested . Periodically all the warning lights flash & the speedometer goes haywire in an instant. Then back to normal. The thing that scares me is when all this happens the car catches, don't know how else to describe it, like it's going to stall but doesn't. My mechanic says it's probably the instrument cluster & an expensive fix. When I take it in & they put it on the computer everything is OK. I'm afraid it will stall out one day.
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1999 Chevy cavalier. Since 2010 Brake warning lights come on intermittently ABS, ETS (!)BRAKES, and traction. Brakes jerk the car forward a few shot times before car comes to a stop, car stops fine 90% of the time. Three different mechanics can not find anything wrong by looking at brakes and I'm lucky if they can drive it and have the problem happen which is basically every other day. New rotors were put on in 2010 twice first time they were warped, wheel cylinders replaced or whatever they do to them recently. Dealership said I needed new rotors I don't think they know.
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ECU is going crazy, throwing all fault codes. When I turn on my car, it starts up and runs fine but the instrument panel goes crazy and all warning indicator lights come and a flash, I even get a stop message where screen is in the middle.
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was wondering when I hook my fog lights up to my 03 cavalier do I need to install a switch or do they come on automatically with the headlights.
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I own a 2004 Chevy Malibu Maxx LT and up until recently the remote start worked great. However starting last week when I go to use it all I get is a quick flash of the brake lights and it wont start. The only thing that happened last week was I had the hood up to check the oil.
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About 2 months ago, I needed to test my engine cooling fan motor. Was using two lead test wires with alligator clips and stupidly connected the battery ends first and then the wind blew the other connection ends together creating a spark. That may or may not have anything to do with what has happened since then. About 3 days after that, I started to notice that my lights were dimming and ac fan motor was slowing when the engine was under load as in 1st or 2nd gear or going uphill.
After about a week, the ALT/BAT light came on and I replaced my alternator. The problem with that was that getting the belt back on the new ALT nearly killed me and I got several pretty bad injuries and ended up having to get it done. The old alternator tested bad so I figured my problem was solved. But ever since then, I am still getting the same problem - a voltage drop or loss of electrical power causing the lights to dim and the fan to slow - except this time is doesn't happen under load - it happens while driving and just after I have come to a stop at a light or stop sign. I have had the battery and alternator tested several times and they always show up as being fine.
I checked all the cables and connections and changed the positive battery cable bolt. I get no codes thrown. I cant just take the alternator out and change it because of what I went through with the last one - not to mention it tests OK so I can't use the warranty as long as that is the case anyway. So I am left with this troubling, annoying problem and don't know what the cause or solution is. I am guessing the list of options has to have the alternator, battery, connections, belt (though I have no sounds or evidence there is a problem with the belt - I suppose if the tensioner was damaged with the belt fiasco that it might cause such a problem). What to do? It is the biggest problem at night because my headlights are affected.
2001 Cavalier 5-speed manual 2.2
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I bought a 2002 SC430 about 6 months ago. The car has been flawless, until today. Twenty minutes into the drive while on the freeway at 75 mph the speedometer went to 0 and the ABS and Brake warning lights came on. The car and brakes seemed fine, I returned home. In the driveway I turned the car off and then restarted, all was good. No warning lights, and the speedometer worked on a drive down the street.
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We have a 2013 Nissan Sentra that has been having some issues with the gas gauge not working but normally if we shut the car off and turn it back on it resets. Recently though we had a flat tire on the passenger front side. My husband took the car with a spare tire to a local tire shop and had them replace the flat. Directly following the change of the tire the odometer and speedometer stopped working completely, though the tachometer is fine. Also, the tire inflation, traction control, abs brake & engine warning lights are all on now.
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I own a 2002 SC430. I just brought it into the Lexus dealership because most of the warning lights were on, speedometer was not working, steering was sluggish, skid control wasn't working etc etc. It felt dangerous to drive. It only has 57,000 miles on it. It was just brought in for a full service three months and 360 miles ago. They said it also needed some engine repairs at that time. They did engine work and the service and we got a bill for over $2000. The dealership told me that the current problem is due to a bad ECU and it would cost $2,300 to replace it. They told me it has nothing to do with the engine work they did and it is not covered under any warranty. Is it possible that the ECU could have been damaged when they performed the engine work? Also a few years back the dealership installed new engine mounts. Could that have caused the problem with the ECU? Also can I purchase a second hand ECU?
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I bought two new factory fresh speed sensors to replace the ones. So, after work tonight I get the car up on jack stands and replace both sensors in about 45 minutes. Get it off the jack stands, torque down the rims and reset the dash lights. Nice clean dash display with no warning lights.
I drive it down the street, nice speedometer display and then, after about 100 yards, the warning lights come on and the speedometer flickers from 22mph to 2 then 10 then 1 then zero. I drive it back home, check the sensors and the connections, reset the lights again, drive it down the street and, same story.
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2009 Mazda 3 Since a nasty cold snap in Northeast, instrument panel has gone crazy. The meter showing RPM's works but 0 on the speedometer- dead. Gauges have been all on for a couple weeks. Just noticed now the power steering is gone. All lights seem to work normally and heat/defrost works. Radio works. Haven't noticed if odometer is working or not.
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So I have a 1999 Cavalier..I drove it yesterday without issues but when I got up this morning to go to work, I turned the key to start it and it seemed as if there was a boom from the engine. The engine didn't start, but when I tried the key again, it started right up. I drove 35 miles to work, including some highway miles at 70 mph. What would that have been? Is it a sign of things to come?
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When I start my car it bogs down, dies, & the battery & oil light come on. I am able to start it & rev it up & then go but will die & I do the same then it goes, but recently acts as if it is dying while driving.It started a couple weeks ago while I was driving but restarted & figured it was the battery as it was old & tested badly. I bought a new battery, changed the oil, & air filter for maintenance & it ran fine for a could weeks.Now it is wise than when it started & dies more often.Do you think it could be the plug & wires or alternator?Do not feel like spending a lot of money to go through every part.1999 Chevy Cavalier 2.2L 5 speed.
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While driving I turned on my headlights and my car became possessed. My warning lights started to flicker on and off, my car was dinging out of control. The speedometer, gas, and RPM gauge went to zero. My brights light would not come on. My dinging for the lights being left on, or the key being left in the ignition, after the car is parked, and the door is open, will not go on either. I turned my lights off and all was well. Turned them on again and the same thing happened.
Now, the following day, it is doing this periodically every couple of minutes while I'm driving, whether the lights are on or not. My radio and head lights work fine. I checked all my fuses and they all seem to be AOK. I disconnected my car battery and reconnected it to see if it would reset and it still did the same thing. One other strange occurrence. The last month or so while I've been driving my battery light came on for a few minutes. I had the battery checked and it is not bad. Then last week my gas-cap warning started to randomly appear. I changed my gas cap, and guess what.....it still came on, at random.
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My airbag light flashes six times when I turn my car on. Then it remains on while I'm driving. I have no clue what this means.
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I have an 1999 Cavalier that I got inspected in July so I'm good until next July. I had a small welding job done on the frame so it would get the inspection sticker for this year, but I'm thinking that by next year, I'll have paid enough off of my Liberty and be able to take on another car payment. In the meantime, the Cavalier has 214,000 miles on it and has something weird happening. Occasionally, I will get into the car and turn the key to start it and it makes a sound in what I think is the engine compartment.
It almost seems as if there is a small explosion in the engine and the car doesn't start. Then, I turn the key again and it starts up without a problem, no boom. This actually happened again yesterday and I'm writing now so I don't forget "how" it happened. I stopped at the school to pick up my son and shut off the car to go in. I picked him up, got in the car and that is when it happened. I had just come from my house which is a mile away, so it was a short drive to get him. I keep thinking that maybe one of the cylinders has some gas in it that is igniting when I try to start it, but not sure what could cause that. It doesn't happen all the time though, just once every couple of weeks.
Also, this car has over 200,000 miles on it and I do not believe I have ever changed the antifreeze in it. It is the orange kind that is supposed to be good up to 100,000 miles and, yes, I should have had it changed a long time ago, but I have never had any problems with it overheating or starting in the winter time so I didn't worry about it. Again, this is only once a month or maybe every few weeks, but I'll see the coolant light come on. I don't want to take this to the shop and pay them to replace the coolant, so I'm thinking I'll either do it myself. My question is...should I drain it and replace with orange coolant, green coolant, or just top it off with water?
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I have a 99 contour svt and every once in a while the hazard lights will flash even while I'm driving.
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My 2009 Silverado 1500 with only 12,000 miles has begun intermittent display of all warning lights that are normally seen at start up. They stay on for 2-3 seconds and all gauges drop to -0-. When the warning lights go off, the gauges return to normal. It is not as prevalent after engine reaches normal operating temperature.
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I'm installing an aftermarket radio in my 2004 SD. The illumination control stopped working (when I turn on the lights, the radio doesn't get darker), and now the dash and a/c panel aren't backlit any more.
This is the first time I've driven it since the new radio. I thought I might have seen a spark when testing to see which wire was the illumination control, but I'm not sure. I've got a fuse box diagram, but so far all the fuses look good.
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My car dies when I come to a stop unless I gently press on the gas pedal while holding done the brake. What can cause this?
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My fob works fine to start the car, but then randomly while driving the car loses "sight" of the fob and an annoying flashing warning triangle appears along with "Key not detected". It did this right after I took CPO delivery (new fob batteries), but I replaced the fob batteries twice more (using 2 different sources and brands) and it still does the same thing. I think it is the smart key module in the car that is flaking out, because it does the same thing with both fobs and 3 different new fob batteries. On occasion it will tell me to touch the fob to the start button to be able to start the car.
So I now have 3 issues to fix, the peeling trim around the nav unit, the smart key issue, and poorly-balanced tires. Otherwise, everything is excellent.
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