My girlfriend has a 1998 Cheve Cavalier that recently on the way to work completly blow out the number 3 spark plug. It was completly gone and poofs of air now come out of it's place?
View 1 RepliesFord Explorer Sport 2000, Number 1 spark plug has miss firing already replaced spark plugs wires and coil pack what more can i do to get spark from number 1 to spark and took garden hose to listen to injectors clicking when running. any other part for spark.
View 1 Replies2004 echo, 109,000 km. P0301 came up and upon investigation I discovered that my no.1 spark plug well was filled with what I believe to be coolant. The top of the valve cover (where the coil packs are seated) was bone dry. The oil, from what I can see on the dip stick looks ok - I intend to replace to investigate further. Coolant is low. Spark plug wells for cylinders 2 - 4 are ok.
View 8 RepliesI had a plug blowout last Thursday on the freeway. I wasn't sure of what happened with my truck, it was a shutgun going off. I had to towed to my local Firestone.
My truck is a F-150 4.6 2003 with 206,000 miles.
The short of the story, plug #3 blowout. It trashed the coil and I needed a new plug. They used a Helicoli and I have been reading that they shouldn't have used a Helicoli. They should have used a Time-set.
What's wrong with the Helicoli's? Is this fixed going to last for awhile? They said the helicoli worked well. The truck had 7 NGKs and 1 motorcraft. It has all new motorcrafts now.
My brother has a 2000 Chevy Cavalier, not sure what engine. It killed on him on the freeway last night and we had it towed. It tried to start, it has spark and is getting gas. He said that he had no "check engine light" before it stalled. We are sure it has plenty of gas in the tank.
After the tow, when we pulled the key out of the ignition, EVERY stratis light stayed on (Emergency Brake, check engine, ABS, oil ,etc..) We checked to be sure the ignition WAS in the off position and tried the key numerous times, turning it to on or acc, then to off and pulling the key. Still the statis lights stayed on after pulling the key.
I'm thinking the Ignition switch is bad. Also, when we were turning it over....I think it felt a little rough....like slightly out of time. But then It's not my car, so I'm not familiar with how it sounds starting.I'm pretty good with cars and engines, and do most of my own work, but this has me stumped.
About a week ago I blew #10 spark plug out of my 1999 super duty. I was able to screw it back in, though it only has 2 1/2 threads now, and was able to put 12 ft/lb's of torque on it. I am driving it around and it is running fine but i am wondering if i am sitting on a ticking time bomb thats gonna blow at a random time, and if so what should i do about it. Should i just run it until the plug fully blows out, or is there an easier and cheaper fix that i could do if i fix it before the threads are fully stripped out. I have heard about Time Serts, but without pulling the head i would be scared of having a metal shaving get down into my cylinder and scratch the hell outta it.
View 14 RepliesWith the many discussions on F150 spark plug blow outs, is there any consistency in which Cylinders usually go or is it completely random. In my 2003 F150, 4.6, 2wd, I've replaced #3 cylinder with insert and now #2. Currently I'm at 154,000 miles but want to travel cross country with a load. I don't want to stall out on the hwy, would it be wise to go and insert the remaining cylinders - not cheap. My mechanic is willing to inspect with a bore scope the threads and re-torque. Is there a point at which if it hasn't been a problem it won't be. Truck is used primarily for commuting and to pull a single jet ski in the summer. Both blow-outs happened at a stop-light about 20,000 miles apart with no load.
Follow-up. Did inspection, found cylinder #7 nearly stripped out - it was actually pushing up the coil. Funny thing is, this plug had already the small insert which was coming out with the plug. I bought the vehicle new. Was this a factory repair? or did my previous mechanic strip-it when replacing all my plugs at 95,000 miles? Lucking the large inserts my current mechanic uses was able to find some metal and make a good repair. Looking at the cylinder order, I have now replaced 3 of the inter four cylinders (2,3,7) should have I done #6 too, this is probably the next high risk cylinder or not?
I need to tap a bigger hole and put in an insert for the spark plug. I can see that the piston is far enough down so that it won't get harmed from the process. But if I don't get the intake and exhaust valves shut, and then use compressed air to blow out what chips I can, and then I start the engine for a few seconds to blow out anything else (with the coil unplugged of course) will a few remaining chips, along with some that may have gotten blown into the intake, be a big problem? It's an aluminum head, so I can't see the chips doing much damage before they go out the exhaust or end up in the oil filter. But I am just guessing. I don't have the tool to test when all the valves are shut. Also, is it possible that a valve might be in the way and get damaged from the tap?
View 11 RepliesMy sister has a 98 chevy cavalier and it is sputtering i changed the fuel filter but that did not work.
View 6 RepliesI had the oil changed 2/27/11 drove it home parked it for the night next morning I went out to start it I heard loud clunk. I opened the hood and found a spark plug laying on the head seperate from the spark plug wire. What would make this happen? I have not had the sparks plug changed recently.190,000+ miles.
View 10 RepliesI just started hearing sort of a howling noise from front end of my 98 cavalier. I also feel a bit of a grinding sensation through my wheel when I start slowing down. I lifted the front tires one by one, checked the play, there's a little on left side and couldn't really feel anything on the right side. I then put the vehicle in neutral and then spun the tires by hand. The right tire spun with ease and the left side was a bit harder to spin. Just wondering if it is the bearings wearing out or if it could be cv joint problems. I also did check the boots on the cv joints for cracks in them but couldn't find anything wrong.
View 3 RepliesI had a leak in my water pump so we had it replaced and a new thermostat. Now it is overheating in just about 2 minutes and my heater is now not working. I was told that it is most likely an air pocket in the coolant. I have let the car heat up, not to the point of hot but over half way and shut it off, taken the cap of let it sit for a while and then trying it again. No luck so far. Is there another way to get it out of there? and would the cap have anything to do with it? it has been hard to take off in the past and now its coming off easy. It is the plastic kind. I am at the end of my rope here . the car runs like a dream, its just this one thing.
View 12 RepliesI have a 1998 chevy cavalier, 4 door, 2.2 liter SOHC, which has been running hot for a while now. readings are off the dash guage, here's the scenario. on startup from cold, the temperature begins to rise within 60 seconds, reaching what i consider normal operating temperature within three to five minutes, at approximately the "NO" in " NORMAL" on the gauge.
It reaches what has become it's usual operating temperature, at "RM" within another minute or two. If i am in stop and go traffic, the temperature will rapidly reach the final mark after the "L", but not the red zone. If I get on the highway, the temperature will reduce back to the "RM" position within one to two minutes, three to four minutes in steady traffic at lower speeds, i.e. 35 and all green lights. Thermostat has been replaced, water pump has been replaced, electric cooling fan is running correctly, radiator is free and clear of debris.
When I first got the car back in 2000, it ramped up to heat much more slowly, and hung out at "NO" in all types of traffic. in 2004 i went and picked up my car from my father's place, he had taken it to the local shop and had it given the once over, which is when this problem began showing up, and has gotten progressively worse over the years. I've gotten nowhere with other mechanics, the system is leak free, and the coolant tests good.
I am changing the plugs in my 98 e150 today and I was thinking it was a .54 gap and 13 ft/lbs to tighten them. That sound about right?
View 9 RepliesI am in need of the diagnosis of an air conditioner & radiator fan problem on a 2002 Cavalier LS Sport.
The air conditioner blows cold air while the car is moving most of the time. At idle, the air conditioner will suddenly blow warm or even hot air.
At idle with the air conditioner off, the car idles fine. When you turn the a/c on, it runs a bit sluggish. Also, ever 5 seconds you hear what I assume to be the compressor cycle on/off.
After a little research I discovered that this problem could be a faulty radiator fan motor.
Tonight, I pulled the electrical plug to the fan and found that I had voltage to the plug when the engine was running with the air on or off. I then ran wires direct from the battery to the fan and could not get the fan to spin. This obviously tells me that the fan motor must be bad.
My real question is.....should I really have voltage to the fan when the a/c is off and the car is just started? I thought the fan should only turn on when the engine got warm with the a/c off. I started the car and pulled it in to the garage and then shut it off before I did my testing so I don't think that would classify as getting the engine warm.
I am now wondering if the voltage was always present even with the AC button off because I may have had the fan in the recirculate mode. The AC light is lit in this mode even when the AC button is off.
I have been trying to find the part number for new plug wires for my 07 GX 470 and have searched the forum and all I can find on the internet is just the boots? I have 104K on my vehicle and was going to put DENSO plugs and wires on it.
View 5 RepliesI've had the plug wire for my #4 cylinder burn out twice in the last 6 months. The car started running like crap and threw a CEL, the code was for a number #4 cylinder misfire. When I pulled the wire it has obvious signs of being burned out, like white powder and burn spots near the base of the wire where it goes over the plug. The plug and coil both look normal. No issues with the other cylinders. What could cause it?
This is on my '05 Santa Fe, 2.7l, FWD auto, with 180k miles
I have added the upfitter switches to my FX4 but used all of the switches for accessories. Need to start using the round buttons but don't know the plug number/pigtail for round buttons.
What the plug number/pigtail is for the "off road/hill decent" round buttons on the raptor upfitter console? I don't want to spend money for the harness when I only need one connector. The tiny pins on the switch are too small.
I'm doing standpipes and dummy plugs. There is a 4mm plug with an oring and mine was trashed. What is the P/N?
View 13 Replies170,000 miles. Misfire on number 8. Spark at the plug. 185 psi compression. Pops and misses badly under light load. Smoothed out under heavy load/acceleration. 60 psi at rail ign on engine off. 55ish engine running at idle. The fuel pressure gauge does wiggle quite a bit (1 psi) very rapidly. Cap, rotor, plugs and wires were changed with no improvement. Is there anything you would try before changing the spider? I have not read the codes yet but I'm sure the usual suspects are there.
View 12 RepliesI have a 98 Cavalier and my problems is that both of my low beams stopped working at the same time. My high beam and day light still work...
View 14 Replies