I have a 1996 Chevy Cavalier, which I purchased used Two years ago, and lately I've been having a problem with it. I live in the area where Temps rub pretty high here. Recently, with three digit weather, my car stalls when I'm in stop and go traffic. I would have to turn off the car and restart it. The car temp gauge in car doesn't show the car overheating. What is the possible cause of the car stalling?
View 1 Replies2003 Cavalier auto 116K miles - Car is sputtering and stalling at stoplights with a/c on. What can I check?
View 6 Repliesi was driving my car back home after a short drive to the store and my car stalled and i started it back up and it continued to stall (no check engine light was coming on or oil light if there is one). I finally got it back home and it will not start now, I asked a friend to come look at it and he said it could be the starter, as he was checking on that he said there was a hole in my oil pan, which of course i did not see.
I replaced the starter just in case and it did not start and he also replaced the oil pan and put oil in as it was completely dry(4 quarts). it still makes the same noise when i try to start it with a jump and a new battery, when i turn the key all of the dash lights go dead, so i am unsure what to do next if my engine is seized or maybe something else i can hopefully check or replace for cheaper...
So I've got a 2000 1.8T with an automatic trans that doesn't seem to want to stay on. The car was initially stalling out after getting up to temperature in stop and go traffic but now it's having problems all the time. It doesn't want to start and the only time it wants to run is if I'm on the highway. If I slow down below 20mph the car will stall out, if I go to start it the rpms will drop and it will stutter and stall out if I can get it started.
I've already replaced the diverter valve along with dropping in a K&N filter. I'm not sure what else it could be. I'd like to change out the N75 valve but I'm not sure where its located on this car.
I have a 96 Chevy Cavalier with about 160k miles on it. Yesterday it started kicking kind of strangely from a dead stop to accelerating while in drive. This evening, after driving it both to and from work, when I backed in to a parking spot, it got stuck in reverse. The car was still pulling in drive and in reverse, it just seems like the gear shifter moves freely.
Idle seems fine, the vehicle just doesn't want to go into park or drive anymore.
Is this just as simple as the transmission being blown, or could there be another problem? Also, now that I've gotten the car turned off, it will not turn over again, since the vehicle won't shift into park.
My 1996 Chevrolet cavalier will not start. It sat for two months while I looked for a neutral safety switch. New switch is in and brand new battery, Car does turn over. It gets close but no luck. I put new gas in. I really need to get this running before the snow flies.
View 1 RepliesSo my 2004 honda civic LX with 165k miles has had some battery issues, or so it seems. While driving the car has been "shutting down", headlights fail, dash lights fail, radio sound goes off, and sometimes the car stalls. Typically this is happening when in stop and go traffic. The battery light on the dash comes on and off during these moments of failure. These issues started a few months ago when the dash maintenance light came on. I brought the car to a mechanic to see if he knew the issue. We decided to test the alternator and it was fine but we replaced it anyway. The issue went away until recently when the maintenance light came on again and seems the problem is worsening this time around.
View 5 RepliesI have a 1996 chevy cavalier 4-door. It is a 2.2 auto. I changed the passenger side cv shaft and now it won't start. I have lights it won't turn over. I put a new battery in no luck.
View 4 RepliesMy daughter has a 1996 Saturn SL with something over 100K miles on it. It runs generally well, although using a quart of oil every thousand miles or so. It passes the smog check required for her registration. It's had new spark plugs within the recommended period.
Recently she went on a road trip, and hit stop-and-go traffic for a couple of hours in one large city; it being January in a warm climate, the weather that day was presumably neither very hot nor cold. The Check Engine light came on. Fortunately she had the time to take it to a mechanic recommended by a friend local to the area, who pronounced the engine OK. She proceeded without incident for the rest of her thousand mile trip.
Sounds to me like the emissions crossed some threshold beyond "marginal" during the lengthy idling and running at low speed. Question: if we wanted to avoid such a condition, what kind of repair would be recommended.
I have a 1997 Corolla with 150k miles.
I had my catalytic converter and flex pipe replaced this summer. Lately, my car has been idling rough. While stuck in some horrific stop and go traffic three weeks ago, it started to make noises as if it would stall out. It didn't, but it still sometimes makes those noises.
The car seems fine on the highway. No loss of power. I did think that the hood felt too warm on a recent trip, but the temperature gauge in the car showed no issue.
The car hesitated when I tried to start it last week, but normally starts fine. It was the first cold day of the year.
I saw some white smoke come out of the tailpipe last week. It only happened once. Coolant and oil levels are fine. The spark plugs look good.
The fill pipe has been leaking gas for several months. It leaks if the tank is more than half full and it drips a bit of gas when I fill up. Two mechanics have not been able to find the leak and have told me not to replace it until it is a problem, given the age of my car.
I took it to a mechanic today (not the one who replaced the cat). He told me that the rough idling is due to the new flex pipe being shorter than what was originally there. He assured me that the car is fine to drive long distances and that there was nothing wrong with it. There's no check engine light or anything on the dash to indicate a problem.
I should be relieved, but I'm not. I've lost confidence in my car. Can the stalling noises and rough idling be explained away by a changed exhaust system? Or are these signs of a problem about to happen?
My car dies when I come to a stop unless I gently press on the gas pedal while holding done the brake. What can cause this?
View 4 RepliesI have 93 cavalier 2.2l will start up and run for 5 or 10 min then start sputtering and then will stop running acts like it has bad gas, but once it does this it will not start for rest of the day will start next morning. I have seen liquid coming out of tail pipe.
View 1 RepliesI recently replace my catalytic converter with a MagnaFlow direct fit, thinking it may have been clogged. This did not solve my problem. The car only jerks after it has been driven more than 30 minutes. It usually starts jerking once I get back into town (stop and go traffic). I have replace a handful of sensors. I plan on replacing the transmission control solenoid. How many do I need? Where is the TCS located?
2002 Chevy Monte Carlo SS 3.8 6cyl. 98k mi.
I have an '02 Tracker and I've noticed if I have several accessories running, that my engine will start to sputter and come to the verge of stalling when I come to a stop. It happens if I have the heat/air and radio or charging my phone on together. What is the cause and/or remedy for this? I've changed the alternator a few yrs. back, but it still continued.
View 2 Replies2004 Trailblazer 6cy. 2WD - has been experiencing a very rough idle, engine shudders - no matter how long it's been warmed up. Wants to stall off red lights and at very low speeds. Not throwing any lights yet - but the speedo is out ( a cam shift typical problem for this car) so I don't trust the console for lights. Worse when the heat or air is on. Rides fine with more gas/higher speeds. Definitely worse in colder temps but continues even after 40-50 mins of driving. I've heard a number of things, but can't afford to fix them all. I've heard plugs, dirty throttle camshaft, sensors, cam actuator solenoid, etc. All seem to have people who said it fixed and didn't fix the issue. Worried I'm going to stall pulling off a stop and rear end someone any day now. Where do I start!?
View 2 RepliesMY 2001, 6 cylinder, HONDA ACCORD (200,000K miles) has for a couple of years randomly stalled at traffic signals. It has always been for just a few seconds, the engine will turn over, all dashboard lights are on but it has taken up to about 30 seconds to finally fire. I didn't worry about it too much until last week when this happened only this time it wouldn't start. BIGGER problem was that I couldn't get the gear shift lever to shift from "Park" to "Neutral", which meant the car was stuck sitting in the middle of the road and several burly men couldn't budge it out of the way of traffic. After about 20 minutes, the car started and drove away like a dream. Had mechanic check it out - ran perfectly. Fast forward three days, I drive 3.5 hours seamlessly stop a couple of times with the car sitting a max of 10 minutes - no problem - stop third time with engine off, in park for only about a minute and the same situation, dash lights on, stuck in park, engine turns over, won't start. Had lunch, an hour or so later it starts. Drive about five miles & turn up a steep grade on paved, residential road at about 25mph and the engine shuts off without any coughing, stuttering - just shuts off and I coast to the curb. Starts up in just a few seconds and has been running beautifully since, driving me and the mechanic nuts.
View 7 RepliesI have a 2001 Saturn L200 that has been extremely reliable until recently. My car is suddenly unable to deal with stop-and-go traffic. After sitting in traffic for 15 minutes or so, I will hear something that sounds like a fan or electric motor come on. It sounds like it comes from under the hood on the passenger side. Shortly after that, it seems like the accelerator stops working. I let the clutch out, and hit the gas like normal, and the car stalls. When I restart the car, the fan noise is gone and it runs fine for another 5-10 mins before it all happens again. This has happened maybe 4 times over the last few weeks. It has not happened under any other driving conditions.
View 7 RepliesMy sunfire is not shifting from 3rd to 4th gear. I will shift fine all the way up to 3rd and then ir revs like it is in neutral when i hit about 43 mph. it gets a little bit of a jump if i get off the gas all the way and then back on it and i can get it up to 55 but the rpm's are at 4.5. I read a few different posts that seemed like they may have had the same problem but they werent describing the way my car is acting. I went and got the fluid exchanged today and also changed the throttle position sensor on a whim because someone told me it could be the problem.
View 3 RepliesMy radiator was leaking and I accidentally boiled it dry. I put water back into the cooling system, but now my car won't start. Anything I can check to try and get it to run before I get it towed it to a mechanic?
View 1 RepliesIt stalls when approaching intersections, and sometimes in traffic, always can be restarted, have had battery changed, fuel system checks out. have left at the garage and they can never get it to stall, but it still does it and sometimes three or four times during the day. Have not been to dealer, am frustrated and afraid of getting in accident. What might be causing this?
View 2 RepliesWhy my Camry is stalling. Here is the situation: yesterday I had my battery disconnected for several hours while removing the seats from my vehicle so I could clean the carpet. When I put everything back together and reconnected the battery the car started up and ran without any problem. I then went out to run some errands and the car stalled while stopped at a stop sign. I put the car in park and it started right back up. Any time I come to a stop the engine idles to slowly.
I had this same issue a couple of years ago and a technician at my Toyota dealership said there was a sensor that needed to "learn" my driving habits (like how fast or slow to idle). The guy was correct and after a few days of dealing with stalling at red lights I have had no issues.
So I would like to know what this sensor is called and if this whole thing sounds right. To me it seems like a problem that the vehicle would want to stall. I could see myself getting rear ended by someone assuming I am going to make a turn when I am stalled.