Cavalier - Chevrolet :: 1989 - How To Change Digital Dash To A Regular One
Jun 20, 2008
I have a 1989 cavalier with a digital dash, and I was wondering what was involved or can it even be done to replace it with a regular one. I can't stand the digital dash.
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I have a 2001 Cavalier 5-speed manual 2.2. I have owned it for every day and every mile (204K) since I bought it new in April of 2001. I have had many mechanical disasters and problems mostly starting a couple of years ago - and a lot of them I have worked on or fixed and/or replaced the part myself.
The transmission fluid in this car has never been changed, looked-at, drained, added, etc....because I was told that it didn't need it. The manual says the same thing. For as long as I've had this car, it has had a intermittent rattle noise that I figured was just the "Getrag rattle" - so I didn't pay much attention to it. But over the past year - especially the last 6 months - this rattle has just gotten totally insane and out of control. It is now a constant loud rattle whenever the car is in gear - especially starting out in 1st or 2nd. I mentioned this to someone and they asked when the last time the fluid was changed and said that would fix the problem - and couldn't believe that the fluid had never been changed after 15 years and 200K miles.
This model has no dipstick. There is a big red vent cap and I think I found a HEX plug close to it, but before I go out and buy the wrong size hex key - what size these are and if they are even what I am looking for to fill/check/drain it? So frustrated. Also - since I can't find DEXRON 3 anywhere am I supposed to use this DEX/Mercon stuff?
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When I turn on the a/c I feel/hear vibrations from the dash. Almost like a subwoofer - a solid note though. Shut the a/c off, the fans in front of the engine shut off and it sounds fine. Cooling fluid is fine. No noticeable shakes under hood. Any clue?
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I have an ' 89 Chrysler Lebaron coupe in very good condition. The car has an overhead console which is digital. It shows the compass and outside temperature. The compass works fine, but the outside temperature is always way off, normally about 30-40 degrees higher than it should be. I was told that the "thermometer" for that is located somewhere behind the grille. I am unable to locate it and am unaware of what it looks like. Auto part stores in my area don't seem to have a listing for this part. Most of these cars were convertibles, so only the higher end coupes had this option, I'm told.
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I tried changing the settings but all I could get done was F to C and the trip number to KPH.
The digital speed display would be real useful here as the cops are sticklers in the city about the speed limit.
Will the VAG cable do it? I'm still trying to dig it up but most of our stuff is still in boxes.
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Husband brought car in for regular oil change and told them I was having a problem with my gas gauge not registering properly. They claimed I probably didn't fill at least 4 gallons for it to register. So, they sent him home with that answer and if I continue to have problems to bring it in again and they would have to do some expensive troubleshooting. I have owned the car for 4 years and I was infuriated at that response since I only started having this problem recently and knew how to pump gas.
After doing some reading (not on here unfortunately) I didn't like what I was reading, that it is a "mystery" and could cost alot for them to figure it out. So, since I didn't have the time or money to deal with it, I decide to just keep track of it by the travel information screen. This was working out fine and the gauge started working again for a few months.
Recently, I filled up 8 gallons and the damm gauge craps out again and only registers 4 bars. I have a full tank, drive 92 miles and the gauge dropped to one bar during that time...I know I can't fill it cause I would take maybe 2-3 gallons (due to gas pricing)...so I decide to see what would happen.
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My wife likes to use the digital speed display on the dash, and someone I made it disappear. Avg. speed is there but real time speed is not. How do I get it back?
This is the location I am talking about....
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I would like to change my Headlights and Fog Light from regular Yellow color from factory to White color. My headlights and my fog lights I think they are all Halogen. I heard about LED light also halogen lights that illuminate white. My is Toyota Avalon 2013 XLE Touring
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I've got an 2016 F250 Diesel 6.7 PowerStroke, which I bought fresh off the lot, and just got my regular oil change and tire rotation today, thru a local Ford Dealership. I'm working out of town, so I didn't take it to my home dealership as I have been every 5,000 miles since I drive a lot for work. As of today, I'm currently at 47,000 miles. Just to stay on top of things, any time I'm asked to get any type of extra additives, or filters needing to be changed, I do so. I don't like bad surprises when it comes to vehicles. So after getting my truck serviced today, and back to work, I notice a constant "Ticking" but do not know why. Thought maybe after running it all day at work, not literally all day, that it would go away. I took it in at 7:00am, and here I am at 9:30pm, and it still ticking. What it could be?
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I have a 1997 Sedan Deville with a digital dash. Recently while driving the center portion of the dash went completely dark and has not come back on. The left portion that displays the AVG/EST MPG works as does the right side portion that displays the Climate Control temp and the outside temp. Another sympton is that the turnsignals physically work but the interior right and left indicators do not illuminate when the signals are activated. Also when switching from low to high beam the hight beam (blue) indicator does not come on in the center display, nor does the information bar at the bottom of the display. Probably just a coincidence, but this seemed to occur shortly after turing on the windshield wipers. There has been no mechanical or electrical work done on the car recently. I found a 10Amp fuse located in the trunk that the manual identifies as a link to this display, but it checked ok.
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My digital clock on the dash runs fast. Every month it gains 2 to 3 minutes compared with my cell phone and I have to adjust it.
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The digital dash went out a while back and I never fixed it. Now if the lights are on dim the left headlight will not come on and the right will flicker like a strobe. When the brights are on, the right works normally, but the left will flick on and off. When the left light goes off the speedometer quits working, the abs and trac lights will come on, the cruise quits working, and the wipers quit working. Sometimes it works normally, but the problem is more frequent of late. Hitting bumps in the road seems to effect it sometimes, which points to a short or something poorly connected. Is this a multi-switch issue or a lighting control module issue, or both, or something else.
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I have a 2001 Merc. Grand Marquis with a digital dash. The problem I am having is that the speedo displays 0 intermittently. What may be causing this? The cruise control will still work if I set it when the speed is showing.
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I own a 1989 Chevy Horizon Camper Van, a "camper" on a 1989 Chevy chassis, the "van part" of the camper is just like a normal 1989 Chevy G20 Automatic Van. About 2 weeks ago it started to "bog" down while accelerating, meaning it feels like the van is running out of gas although it is defiantly not out of gas. Also I put a new battery in two days ago because I had been having starting problems and somewhat hoping this would cure the other problems. It did not cure the problems and although I have not had to get a jump, the van is starting hard and the battery indicator on the dash is in between the dead line and the middle line. I also put in two cans of "Sea Foam" thinking there might be condensation in the gas line.
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My car dies when I come to a stop unless I gently press on the gas pedal while holding done the brake. What can cause this?
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It was running fine. tried to start and it just turns over. Also the fuel gauge doesn't move from an 1/8th of a tank. I took the filter line off, turned the key, and gas shoots out but the injectors don't spray at all. I poured some gas in the tbi and still just turns over without even trying to start.
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Car won't start after filling up with gas. I have tried a new fuel filter, new gas tank cap, checked for pressure on fuel pump. We have gottenit to start (but barely) when either hit gas tank with hammer or shake the back of the car, otherwise you have to set and wait 15-30 minutes before it will start and when it does it smells very weird (like it's flooded but an extra strange smell with it). I have seen a similar posting on here and someone suggested it might be a purge value problem. In talking with someone at auto store they didn't think this was the issue. I do have my check engine light on all the time and when checked the code , it said oxygen sensor. My two other Cavaliers have also had the oxygen sensor problem but it never did this with that code.
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Had a directional bulb go out recently and replaced it without any problem. About 3 days ago it went again, I bought a 2 pack of bulbs - replaced it and drove on. Almost instantly right after I turned and signaled the right directional bulb blew again, I grabbed the extra bulb put it into plug and started car - first right turn with directional bulb blows again. I'm at a loss as to where this can be happening. Is this in the steering column or elsewhere, where do I even begin to look.
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My daughter says that the AC on her 2001 Chevy Cavalier cuts off when she is idling.
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I have a 2004 Chevy Cavalier. I am having some issues with it.
When it first starts it idles really hard. The RPMs are up and if will try to accelerate without hitting the gas. This stops after the first minute.
The second part is that when stopped, but in drive, it idles hard. It does it though when the AC is turned off. You can see the RPM gauge go above and below the normal 500 RPM. If you turn the AC on then it levels out. It will occasionally idle hard with the AC on, but rarely and not as much.
The car drives well and is not overheating.
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The cold air box is a black plastic box that sits forward of the engine/valve cover. It connects via black plastic tube to the air filter box on one end and to the engine on the other. I took it off it. 'Lo and behold it was full of oil.
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