98 Camry 3.0 V6 . Gas kicking back when filling tank. Was told it's an easy fix. That a line that makes the air escape is clogged. But I can't seem to find the canister or where the line is. If i pump it really slow it will go in steady.
View 5 RepliesSo I fill up my 2007 Sonata for the very first time. I'm squeezing the trigger on the pump, it clicks off automatically when it senses it's full, then about a pint of gas backs up out of the tank and onto the floor. Is there some sort of design flaw on the Sonata that causes this to happen? It could have been a problem with the pump, but I don't usually have that happen with my other cars.
View 12 RepliesHaving an issue with my 03' Accent. I'm having an issue of my coolant tank filling up but it is not being drawn back into the radiator when the engine cools down. I have replaced the radiator with a new unit because the filler neck of the original radiator was damaged sometime in the past and the cap would not seal good enough to hold pressure . Looks like heat damage to me but I don't know for sure. The system now holds pressure but now I'm having the current issue. My first thought was a head gasket issue creating pressure in the system and forcing coolant into the tank.
The car has 155k miles and runs good overall and is not overheating. I performed a "block check" test using the chemical method that detects combustion gasses in the cooling system and that test was negative. I also pressure tested the system by pressurizing to 16 psi and was unable to detect any leaks anywhere on the engine / radiator and the pressure did not drop until I released it. I guess the next thing to try will be a compression test to see if I have any low cylinders. So, for whatever reason my cooling system is not creating enough of a vacuum to draw the coolant back into the radiator when it cools down. Does this sound like a head gasket issue? The pic is of the original radiator filler neck damage.
I got a 1998 Toyota Camry with 2.2L 4 cylinders and have almost 210K miles on it.
Starting about 2 months ago, I was experiencing some minor engine kicking when it was either idling or accelerating, not really such a big deal. About a month ago, I took it to my mechanic shop and he told me that I need to clean up the throttle body. I took his advice, let him did the work and the car still doing the same thing. I did a lot of research on the internet and many people suggested replacing the spark plugs and after I replace the plugs (Bosch, not something cheap), the situation got even worse.
The engine starts kicking more frequently and violently and the “Check Engine” light came on (and flashing). I took my car to a local auto parts store and have their people get the error code for me, it was something about engine misfire and they told me I should have my mechanic to take a look.I took the car back to my mechanic, 2 days later when I called him for update, he told me the cause of the problem was the spark plug cables didn’t plugged in securely. But just before I drove off the mechanic’s parking lot, the engine did it again. I didn’t go back to ask my mechanic because I truly believe he did not want to spend any more time on my car.
Here are the current conditions of my car,
•It never fail to start when the engine is cold or warm
•When I stopped at traffic light, the engine ran smoothly, after about 10 to 20 seconds of idling, it starts kicking. It will do this no matter if my gear in in P, R, N or D.
•When the car is completely stop and then I press the accelerator, the engine will act like it’s going to choke and if I keep holding the accelerator, 2 to 5 seconds later it will rev up and going
•I will be even worse if I have my AC on.
•It runs smoothly if it on the highway
•It always acting up if I try to make a 90 degree right turn and never happens on a left turn
•The “Check Engine” light did come up again but went away 2 days later.
•I made a hard brake yesterday and it took the car about 15 seconds to be able to rev up the engine again.
I have a problem with the starting system on my 2002 Camry LE 4-cylinder. My problem started a few weeks ago. I drove it to the store, about five miles away, did my shopping, got back in the car, started it up and drove back toward home but stopped again to get gasoline. After filling the tank, the car wouldn't start. I turned the key but nothing happened. No noise, nothing. The starter motor wasn't turning over the engine. Thinking back, when I started my trip, the starting seemed a little weak but the car was sitting for a few days and it was cold out so I didn't make too much of that symptom.
So over the next half an hour, I tried starting it a few more times but got nothing but silence. So I called for a tow and $150 later I had my car back home. I put a load tester on the battery and it checked out fine. So I eliminated that part of the starting system being a problem. The next day, just out of curiosity, I tried starting it again and it fired up right away. The motor ran fine and I let it warm up for a while but I didn't go anywhere. I repeated this same procedure a few times over the past couple of weeks and each time the motor started up but again, I didn't chance going anywhere. However since I had some other maintenance projects I needed to get done on it and my wife has a 2014 Camry, having the 2002 out of service was inconvenient, but not an emergency.
So yesterday, with my maintenance projects done, I took the 2002 for a little test ride. Once again, it started up without a problem and I took my ride around the block. When I got home, I shut the motor off and went inside to grab a few tools. I came back outside, tried starting up the motor and got nothing. No start and no sound but the slight hum of the electric fuel pump. I tried a few more times with no success and then gave up for the evening. This morning, right before taking the other car to work, I tried starting it again just out of curiosity and once again, the motor fired right away. So this sequence of events tells me that something in the starting system is being impacted by heat when the motor is warm and when things cool down, they're fine.....at least for now.
I'm thinking the solenoid-starter may be going because I've had starters on other vehicles affected by heat before.
I have a 2014 camry SE 2.5 with 66.000 miles on it and been having issues since the warranty expired..... What it could be? Cleaned the maf sensor and still no luck and every time i fill the gas tank it won't start takes a while.
View 7 RepliesMy CEL came on today, gas level was a little under a quarter tank.
Took it to Advanced on the way home to have them scan it quick, and it threw a fuel pressure regulator code. I stopped in the gas station on the way home and filled it up, and the CEL was gone and hasn't been on since. I'm thinking HPFP, but maybe not? Could it be injectors?
I filled my 2010 Prius IV. Every day since, my indicated MPG has gone up about one MPG, with my 40 mile round trip to work.
I had been running around 46-48 MPG indicated this winter. Next day it was up over 50. Yesterday 52, today it is up to 53 mpg and I have used 1/2 tank on 256 miles, which is much better than my winter stats.
How many miles does it say you can drive after you fill up? Mine says 334 and that's what I'm getting. I want to hit 400 for a tank and can't.
View 13 RepliesNormally when I fill my fuel tank, of course the car is off/not running. And once it is full and I get I'm the car then start it, the "Cruising Range" read out has always read about 403 mi.
Right after the recall was done, it read about 420 mi. if I recall correctly, but in the next fill up or two, it's remained at 403/404 mi.
However, today when I filled up and got in the car, the cruising range read 387 mi.
The tank was between 1/4 and 1/2 full before fill up.
The leak only happens when filled more than 3/4 of a tank. It appears that the leak is coming from a hose or hose fitting to the right of the opening on top of the tank,under the driver's side rear seat. So far I have only been able to drop the tank about 2 inches.
View 3 RepliesEvery time I go to fill up my gas tank it has trouble starting. It doesn't matter whether I use 91 89 or some other premium fuel. I have to crank it 4-6 times for about 6 seconds each time and then at the end of the last crank it will barely start. It will idle kinda rough for about 10 seconds and then until I go to fill up the gas tank it will run flawlessly, 27-31 mpg depending on driving style, starts up right away with out filling up the tank. The only other issue I have is an "emissions workshop" every time I start the car but I think that's just because of a bad check valve the I'm throwing a code for.
The car in question : VR6T 4 door 1996 golf
I'm not topping off or overfilling, I pull the nozzle out once the I get the 1st click/cut off whatever from gas pump nozzle once the tank is full and don't put in any extra. It doesn't do this right away (Power loss)... waits until I shut the car off for the day (after a fuel refill) and then the next day I'm driving along and for 20-30 minutes I get random complete loss of power. I don't think it's an ignition issue because it only happens when I fill the tank, but it sure feels like it. It's almost like that bad coil pack feeling. I don't know how else to explain it, just stops accelerating/cruising for a half of a second maybe once every minute or two for about 30 minutes, then it never happens again until i fill the tank.
View 9 RepliesI have a 2012 Prius 3 that's about 1 1/2 months old with about 1,500 miles. I remember when it had 3 miles and the dealer filled it up it showed a 600+ mile range. Since then I've had a few fill ups where I've gotten it down to about 20-40 miles left in the range and when I fill it up it's only filling up with just under 10 gallons and showing a range of about 475 miles. If I remember correctly the fuel tank is 12.9 gallons so I feel like I'm not filling up to those last two gallons. Not sure what's going on.
View 2 RepliesFirst time I've filled the car up and getting a gas smell while driving. I checked the gas cap and it's on.
View 3 RepliesWell, just got back from my dealer - had them check into why after driving approximately 20 miles my fuel gauge registers 3/4 full. They said it has nothing to do with the cluster gauge everything checks out as accurate. My vehicle had the ECU 293 update applied at production. According to them is it because there is something preventing my fuel tank from filling all the way up. According to the service rep when the pump clicks off, my fill up is about 3-5 gallons short.
When I took delivery of the vehicle I noticed that the distance for the remaining (full) tank of gas read around 384. I've never seen that number again. Now when I do a fill up the best tops out at 310 or so. Where exactly did my 70+ additional miles until empty go?
They opened a case for my vehicle with Hyundai and said that Hyundai is already aware of this problem and they are working on a repair.
2007 Hyundai Santa Fe is currently stranded 4 hours away from home. The gas tank was 1/4 full and they filled up the gas tank and drove 4 miles down the thruway and then the car starting acting funny and stalled. Now when they try to start the car the car it dies after a few seconds. Of course it's Memorial Day weekend too.
View 9 RepliesWe have been having an issue with our gas tank not filling up continuously for over three years. It automatically trips the gas shut of switch every couple of seconds so it can take a while to fill up. Then every once in a while it fills up totally normally.
View 1 RepliesCan't figure this one out. I've had the car about 9 months and this is the first time I've ever had an issue filling it up with gas. Basically, if I tried to pump it much faster than a trickle, the pump would shut off. It must have taken me five minutes to pump a little less than nine gallons in. And the frustrating part about that is that you never know which of the click-offs is the one you should stop at.
View 19 RepliesThe last several times I've gone for gas, the car won't recognize the smart key after fill up, either in or out of the slot. It does not recognize either of my 2 smart keys. I have changed the batteries in both keys. I am able to lock/unlock doors, but not start the car. The red light on the dash indicates there is no key. Dealer cannot find the problem. Eventually the car does start after some time (5 to 20 minutes) and I have not been able to identify what changes to make it so.
View 8 RepliesFor several years my husbands car "chugs" and barely starts after filling up at the gas station. Once it starts it is good to go but it takes many cranks and pumping of the peddle to get it going. If you put gas in it with a gas can it doesn't have the problem so guess it may have to do with the pressure of gas going in from the pump?!. We have spent over 1500.00 when it first started to no avail...
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