Cadillac - Seville :: Indicator Icons For Brake And ABS Do Not Go Off After Car Starts Up
Feb 10, 2013
I have 2002 Cadillac Seville SLS. From time the icons for the brake and abs do not go off after the car starts up. I'll be driving for anywhere between a few minutes to an hour or so and they well go off and an audio tone goes off. Sometimes they will not come back on for the remainder of my trip, at other times times they will appear again then go off again. There is no indication that there is anything wrong with the brakes. Also, when the icons go off and the heater is on the fan will accelerate. What may be going on?
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I have a 2001 seville. The problem that I have is that the abs and traction icons come on the dash sporadically. When this happens the ventilation system shuts down. When the lights go out ,the ventilation system works fine. The dealership tells me that the two systems are not connected. They tell me that I need a new module. I would like to hear other diagnoses of the problem and repair.
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On occasion, my 2003 Cadillac Seville SLS will indicate that the car is low on oil and I should stop driving. When I checked the oil, it has never been low. Prior to this happening, the gas hand began to dance between 1/4 of a tank and a full tank. I am not sure if these issue are related or if I have two separate issues.
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The service engine soon sign came on awhile ago. I immediately took it to a garage and they said they can't find a code. My mechanic friend checked it and found a lean combustion condition. What could be causing this issue and what can I do about it. This yellow service engine soon light is driving my nuts!!!
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I have a 2004 Cadillac it started to miss when your idling, a check engine light when on and it was #5 plug not firing so I changed the plugs in front 4 of them and also bought a coil pack and replaced that, but it still misses. What else can I check before thinking its a sticky Valve or internal engine problems.
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I have a 1998 Cadillac Seville STS which has recently developed an intermittent stalling issue. Here are the details:
Happens occasionally when I'm slowing down or coasting, such as turning into a parking lot or going around a sharp entrance ramp-Has not yet happened during acceleration-No bucking or jerking while accelerating-No apparent warning that it is going to stall-Has happened once each of my last two trips
The first few times it happened my fuel level was pretty low, and one of the times I tried several times to restart it and it would start but die right away. I managed to get it started again, then I filled the tank and tested the fuel pressure at the rail, and I got 45-50 psi with the key turned but without the engine running.
After that time, I have not had any difficulty restarting it when it stalls. I held the valve in basically the same position that it is installed (meaning I didn't turn it upside down) and sprayed in the opening with throttle body cleaner (not carb cleaner). I then used a "pipe cleaner" to clean the inside, and I also worked the plunger up and down after I sprayed it.
I had a few "false alarms" in the past thinking it was fixed, so I wanted to wait until I was sure before posting. I now have to lose the habit of constantly glancing at the tach to see if it's about to stall. It would be interesting to know why cleaning the EGR valve fixed it.
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We do have a problem with our Honda. We have icons on the IP that flash at certain time. Icons are the "battery", "door ajar" and "parking brake". The icons flash when we take our foot off the accelerator and stop when we re-accelerate. Also, if we turn the headlights on during the flashing, it stops. We have a new battery and alternator. A battery check yesterday showed all functions were normal. What could cause this problem and what to do about it.
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Last night I mistakenly poured a small amount (less than 1/4 cup, approx) of synthetic motor oil (5w30) into the power brake reservoir of my 2008 Cadillac STS. It was too late for a garage to be open, and I was about 80 miles from home. I tried to scoop as much of the oil as I could out of the reservoir with my fingers, then drove it home with no problems. Other than leaving all future maintenance to the pros, is there anything else I should do now?
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Ok so we all know it's usually warped rotors or possibly a caliber problem. But let's say u have new of both. And still I'm getting a wobble, not only when I brake at higher speeds, but when I'm on certain roads. Only certain roads. Say about 20% of other roads while driving I get a slight wobble. Not too bad, but a very annoying wobble. I bought this CTS at 35k and now has 45k on it. And again I bought this car for my long commute and a smooth drive. Which I'm not getting. I can't take it anymore! I've got to figure this out. Getting a wobble in the steering while on super smooth roads. And I know it's the car because I have a Chevy Cavalier and a Dodge truck in the family that don't wobble on the same roads.
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ECU is going crazy, throwing all fault codes. When I turn on my car, it starts up and runs fine but the instrument panel goes crazy and all warning indicator lights come and a flash, I even get a stop message where screen is in the middle.
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Over the past year I have had to replace 2 window regulators, a front motor mount, rear brake reline, new wheel engine bearing, a Plenum, and on top of all that the paint is peeling on the front bumper and the rear High Brake Lamp is cracked! Any connection between all these repairs or just my really, really bad luck?
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This morning, went out to my car, started fine, but the speedometer display and all other icons on the display are off. Except for the turn flasher indicators. 2006 model, 271,000 miles. Is this a recall item? I think I remember something about this being recalled. I might add it got really cold last night, about 6 degrees, and my car was parked outside.
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My 2010 BMW 335i is at 25,000 miles and the brake pad indicator lamp is on. Is a full brake job necessary? Any estimates?
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So, according to my wife, there has been an indicator that the brake fluid is low, a couple of times, over the past several months.
Now, I know pretty much nothing about brake fluid, since it is usually simply changed at specified intervals. My mechanic might have not filled it up to level at the last service - there is no indication of leaks, especially since the warning is rather sporadic.
My wife went and got a bottle of "Prestone DOT 3 High Temperature Synthetic Brake Fluid." Will that do? Any precautions?
And yes, this is for my 2010 MT Golf TDI.
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The voice commands mistakenly turned on my dinning icons when I said something else. I tired googling how to remove them but nothing seems to work.
-remove all icons
-hide all icons
-delete all icons
-icons
List goes on and on. The system doesn't recognize any of the commands. What is the proper voice command to turn the icons off. Or even just turn them off manually.
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My "Check Brake Pad" sign lit up yesterday. I check the pads with out taking the wheels off around. I am still on OEM original rotors and brake pads. The car has 35,000 miles.
Both rears looks fine with about 3/16" left the fronts right side and left side has the lowest at 1/8". Do you think i can still use the rotor one more time before i replace them or should i replace them with the pads?
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The dash DRL indicator comes on most of the time when I release the emergency brake. It seems that other times it doesn't. It also seems the indicator turns off after about 20 minutes. Does this sound normal, or does it sound like I have an electrical issue?
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I have the Prius C which when I bought had 3 lights on the dash - ABS, Brake System light and Slip Indicator light ON. What this may be?
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Took the Prius on a little journey the last couple of days. Drove over 700 miles, mostly highway, and the weirdest thing happened to me during that drive.
History: This Prius has a bad HV Battery, in that about 3 modules are weaker than the rest, and the car likes to throw 3006, and corresponding codes for the modules themselves as it sees fit. When this happens, the "BRAKE" indicator along with the "ENGINE SYMBOL" pop up, and the engine revs up above 2000rpm, yet less than 3000rpm, and the drivetrain shuts down output to the wheels. Best I can explain it anyhow.
Other than having to pull over to the side of the roadway, reset the codes and start the car again, all operates fine, until the codes pop up again.
But in this long drive, I was able to repeat 5 times, what has happened once in a great while, but these times, I was able to realize something during the events.
The car, when traveling down an incline, at the very moment the codes were thrown, would start surging in speed, and would not disengage or stop, even if I took my foot off of the accelerator and pressed the brake. I could press the brake long enough that the drivetrain would finally disengage, yet the engine would rev up well over 3000rpm, so much, I felt it best to turn off the keyswitch, and coast to the side of the roadway.
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Bought a new Prius in 2005. In April 2010 (157,000km / 98000m) the triangle and engine icons warning lights came on. After about two weeks in the workshop, I was informed that the main battery went. Two months later (161,000km) the same warning lights came on again. Toyota agents informed me that now it is the water pump not circulating water through the engine. Toyota on its website states that the batteries should last the entire life of the vehicle. Is it possible that battery problem was wrongly diagnosed, and, that in fact, it was the water pump giving the problem in the first place?
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I had not driven the Prius in a few weeks, and even then, that was for less than five miles, and had the low tire pressure indicator come on late last week when the temperatures cooled down, which I fully expected given my opportunities with the Toyota Dealer properly inflating tires. We were away for another week and returned today and I decided to check the tires and add air, and in addition to the tire pressure indicator, the ABS, Traction Control, and Brake Indicator lights were on. As soon as I filled all the tires to the specified PSI, that indicator disappeared but the brake related ones all stayed on.
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